u/passim

I have 2 platinum (you get your own table) tickets to the show tomorrow night that I can’t use. I will give them to you if you get me a poster and mail it to me after the show.

Not a scam, other people here have done it in the past for other shows. I haven’t built up a 17 year reddit account to go around scamming people.

DM me if interested.

I got curious how the R2's audio system measures and what the EQ sliders really do, so I spent an afternoon in the car with Room EQ Wizard (REW) and a calibrated measurement mic. Sharing in case it helps other owners tune by more than guesswork.

Setup

• Mic: miniDSP UMIK-1 with its calibration file, pointed at the roof (90° cal)
• Software: REW, log sweeps played from a laptop over Bluetooth (best I could do for now)
• Mic at driver's head height, car parked, doors closed, HVAC off, Dynamic sound adjust off
• Car volume fixed at a loud-but-normal level (~83 dB at the mic - source volume at 100 and r2 volume at 12)
• Software version: v5.40 beta 135

The basics: The stock sound with flat EQ is bass-heavy

Average of 5 mic positions around the driver's head, all sliders at 0, 1/3-octave smoothing.

The takeaway: there's a big bass hump centered around 40–50 Hz, about 20 dB above the level at 1 kHz, and the response slopes steadily downward through the upper bass (still about +10 dB at 100 Hz). Some bass lift is normal in a car but this is on the generous side, and it's why the car can sound a bit boomy on flat EQ.

From about 700 Hz to 12 kHz the response is pretty even, within about ±2 dB, with a mild dip around 2–3 kHz and a slight lift around 8–12 kHz. (The graph is zoomed in, so those small wiggles look bigger than they are.) It rolls off above ~15 kHz, which is mostly the Bluetooth source.

Let's tweak it: What each EQ slider does

Each curve = one slider at +10 divided by all-flat, measured with the mic in one fixed spot. 1/3-octave smoothing.

For this, I set everything flat, then moved one slider at a time to max and measured. Dividing each result by the flat measurement shows exactly what that slider does.

Band	Filter type	Effect at max (+10)	Notes
63 Hz	Low shelf	~+6 dB	Lifts everything below ~60 Hz evenly
125 Hz	Peak	~+5.5 dB	~0.8 octave wide
250 Hz	Peak	~+5 dB
500 Hz	Peak	~+5.5 dB
1 kHz	Peak	~+5 dB
2 kHz	Peak	~+5 dB
4 kHz	Peak	~+5 dB
8 kHz	Peak	~+4.7 dB
16 kHz	Rising top end (probably a high shelf)	≥+4 dB at 20 kHz	Starts lifting ~12 kHz; couldn't measure above 20 kHz

Observations:

• Each slider has 10 steps up and 10 down, about 0.5 dB per step, so roughly ±5 dB total. That's much gentler than the sliders look.
• Each band is centered right on its label and they overlap a bit, like a typical graphic EQ.
• Cuts appear to behave like boosts. Setting 63 and 125 to -10 took about 5 dB off the bass in my testing
• The small ripples you see in every curve (around 500–800 Hz and 2–4 kHz) show up identically in all of them, so they're measurement noise, not the sliders. I'm doing this in my driveway, it's never going to be perfect.

Practical advice:

• Don't be shy with the sliders. One or two steps is about 0.5–1 dB, which is barely audible. Moves of 4–10 steps are what it takes to hear a real change. I can see it in the graphs, but you can't hear it. I can't hear it, at least.
• If it sounds boomy, cut 63 and 125 rather than boosting everything else.
• Even at max cut, the EQ only takes about 5 dB off the bass, so you can soften the boom but not fully flatten it.

Caveats

• I just barely know what I'm doing.
• One car, measured parked. Road noise changes what sounds right.
• Bluetooth source, which rolls off above ~15–18 kHz, so ignore the extreme top end.
• I didn't directly measure a slider at full cut. The bass-cut results suggest cuts mirror boosts, but I haven't confirmed every band. I am not ready to do 180 measurements to check every EQ position for all 9 bands, but I could possibly do another 9 runs to measure the MIN settings on each band. Maybe.
• Dynamic sound adjust was off. I haven't tested what it does yet.

I

I really wanted a certain record stand, but it's not available in the US. It's made in New Zealand, and they don't seem to ship anywhere out of country. I reached out to a few 'reshipper' companies and nobody wanted to touch this thing because of the size and weight. I was desperate, this fills an exact need for me.

Here's the original, it's from Valhalla. This isn't spam, most of the world can't even buy the damn thing.

https://preview.redd.it/sqwkmyszdkfh1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=474e82c7274895c302c098532a7dea8094f4ee3a

And I know someone will say 'oh that looks like <XYZ>' - it's close, but your option is too wide for my space. Or doesn't hold enough. I've scoured the internet, I've been 20 pages deep on Etsy.

So I decided to make my own. Thankfully Valhalla puts some dimensions online, and we know how large a record jacket is as well as standard plywood thicknesses.

First problem: I don't know any CAD programs. So I went down a rabbit hole learning cad during my lunch breaks. After an embarrassing number of hours, I'd sketched it out. Probably poorly, but still.

I'm sure this is wrong in a million ways. But it seems close.

I sketched all of the panels out with my best guesses. I gave them all a thickness and 'assembled' it in CAD (I 100% did this wrong, it's so, so wrong. It looks ok though) When I put it next to the original it looks pretty close?

I flipped a few things to fit my space better. I also left out record dividers.

Ok, so now that I have some confidence about it, it's time to make it. I found a local place that can take my file and cut it on a CNC, but I had to make a cut file first. I spent a while learning how to do this and trying to Tetris all of the pieces onto a single sheet. Again, I'm sure I'm doing this all wrong.

That's all of it minus two pieces that wouldn't fit, but they were easy.

Made the file, uploaded it to the CNC place, ordered some nice wood and waited. Picked up the wood and rushed to paint it, but everyone told me to put some clear poly on the cut edges first so I could get them to look good later. This was key. We're going to skip all the 'sanding / painting / sanding / painting / sanding all the drips off the edges' steps for brevity.

Assembly time! I made one critical (at least that I know of) mistake here. I should have put all the holes in the drawing and had the CNC shop either drill them or mark them. I didn't know how to do that and didn't stop to ask questions. This caused me to have to spend hours measuring and marking and carefully drilling and clamping and on and on. I could have saved myself massive work here.

Anyway, here it is assembled:

We did it! I flipped the top layer to fit my space better, as well as one back plate.

Shoutout to Valhalla. This is a great design, and I blatantly copied it. That's how much I wanted your product, I spent a zillion hours learning new skills and breaking my ass to get my own.

We have a bunch of OG dualsense and some DS edge, so tonight I took an old one apart and swapped in some light mouse click switches for the triggers.

Went slowly, watched a video. Took under an hour and works flawlessly. Much easier than I expected... I should have done this ages ago.

Spent the night using that instead of an Edge in Blops7 and it's great.

Anyway, mod your stuff.

In case anyone wasn't trying daily, the new update fixed the ghost gun / double vision after it's been broken for weeks on split screen.

Wishing we got a larger hoodie in Philly. I’m willing to Venmo a bunch of $$ to get a hoodie + tarot cards + cover your hassle + shipping if someone can get us a few things at one of the shows this week. Let me know, we can work out a price.

We have spares of:

* The Hermit (2)

* Death (2)

* Justice

Happy to trade for ones we don't have yet.

Edit:

We need:

* The magician

* The high priestess

* The hierophant

* The lovers

* Strength

* Wheel of fortune

* The hanged man

* The devil

* Judgement