Also distressed my clothing items today too. All I got left is to finish making the cross body belt that will also work as a holster the sword.
Also making a rat companion to sit on my shoulder too.
Maybe I’ll make some grenados too for the belt 🤷♂️
I’ll leave you with a clearly high quality joke….
Why did the emo want to become a pirate? Because they cutless
Any of you scurvy sea dogs know some pirate and sea fairing specific weathering skills??
Adding normal stains and dirt I got handled not a problem, I do that stuff a lot on other stuff already.
What I’m stuck on is the sea related weathering, like salt spay or stains. I plan to paint them on because life got in the way and I won’t have enough time to do them the old fashioned way, but I’m at a loss on how to do it aside from dry brushing white and splotching over the top
Still not finished yet, I want to add some trim to the vest and add some distressing to it, but wanted to post it to get an eyeballin from the old salts here.
My budget is crazy low, but thankfully I’m talented enough to make shit work. Here’s a breakdown top down:
Head scarf was curtesy of early 00s fashion I never threw out and found in the back of a drawer.
Necklace was leather n beads strap from mums now retired straw hat.
Vest is a dooner cover from the rag bin and liner is a pillow case from the thrift shop. Cool coin buttons are from Temu, but unfortunately the trim I brought for it ended up coming as a webbing not ribbon, so way too thick n stiff to be used as a trim.
Rope and pleather strap are cheap Temu finds, I’ll use the leather to hang my sword off (3d printing it), also have leather coin pouch to hang too.
Shirt is another rag bin find, a bed sheet that was destined to be a drop cloth.
Sash was a table runner I doubled over and sewed together.
Fall fronts are another bed sheet that was used as a drop cloth, I hid the small amount of pain drops on the insides. Also kinda fucked up and put the fall flap too far around at the side seems instead of up front like I should have.
Feet, bare. Cause no shoes no problem (also I have bears tattooed on them cause bear feet 😂)
I think I’m getting in my head cause seeing it together has me hating it, so I thought why not ask the the experts and see if I have to start again or not 😂
So what am I missing, what should I change, what should I ditch ??
Note: this is an alcoholic recipe
Might want to mention that I made this to be close to canon in taste n texture, so not “enjoyable” but will most likely make you spit it out, and swear in Chinese. But will fill your belly and get you drunk.
I’ll eventually make another recipe to be enjoyable.
I’m not an expert at writing recipes, I just know how to do the things, so apologise in advance. Probably give it a read through first before starting, to make sure you don’t miss anything. But it’s not that hard a recipe, so don’t stress too much.
Another note before I get started, DONOT swap the oat milk out for cow (or any other animals) milk, unless you want to shit your pants and die, cause that’s not the best way to go out.
Same as the other stuff, most are in there for a reason, so changing them for something else may cause issues.
Equipment:
- 1.5-2L glass jar, or food safe container with a lid
- Table spoon
- 1/2 measuring cup
- grater
- pot
- oven pan/tray
- Sieve
- cheese cloth or nylon mesh (optional)
- funnel
- bottles
Ingredients
- 1L Oat milk
- 1/2 cup toasted rolled oats
- 2 tbsp pearled barley
- 1 large apple (grated)
- 1/2 cup brown sugar
- 2 tbsp smooth peanut butter
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 whole cloves
- 1/2 star anise
- 1 black tea bag
- pinch of salt
- 1 sachet dry yeast
The jar
You will need a glass or see through food safe container, one a little larger than your brew so you have some air space above the top of your brew. Your brew will expand slightly, and produce gasses, so make sure that you have atleast 3 fingers width of air above the brew.
With the lid, you’ll need something that just covers the jar, but not seal it. This is important so that any built up gases aren’t trapped and can escape, so a loose fitting screw lid or even removing the rubber ring of the lid might work. You can also use a cheese cloth or clean tea towel as a lid, anything to stop things getting in, but gas’s getting out.
Step 1
Put about half the oat milk in a pot (rest in the fridge for now), along with the barley, brown sugar, peanut butter, bay leaf, cloves and star anise. Let it simmer on low for about 10-20 mins, until the barley has softened and sugar fully dissolved.
Step 2
Place the rolled oats onto a tray (lined with baking paper helps a lot), and into the oven at 150*c for about 10-15 mins or until they are golden brown and have a beautiful nutty smell coming from them. Turn off the oven and let them oats fully cool down.
Step 3
When simmering has finished, turn off the heat and add in the tea bag. Cover it and let it completely cool down (you can do this the day before, just place it in the fridge overnight)
Step 4
Grate your apple with the skin on. Doing this into the jar will help save the amount of washing up you have to do, and will also catch all the juice too.
Step 5
Remove and strain the tea bag from the now cool simmered mix, then place the mix and oats, into the jar with the apple.
Step 6
Next add in the rest of the oat milk, and sprinkle in the salt and yeast, giving it a stir to mix everything together. (don’t be too rough and whip it, just enough to mix it together)
Step 7
Loosely put the lid on your jar, it does not need to be air tight. You actually need it to be loose to let any built up pressure out. The lid is only there to keep anything getting in, and if you don’t have a lid you can use a cheese cloth or clean tea towel secured with a string or lacky band
Step 8
Place the jar in a cupboard, or somewhere dark and not too hot or cold. Definitely avoid sunlight as that might kill the ecosystem you’re making in the jar. Also note that temperature is important as heat speeds it up, and cool slows it down. For reference, my cupboard was 18-24*c depending on the time of day/night.
step 9
Give it a stir a couple times a day, so that the floaty stuff stays damp. This is important cause if left to dry out, mould can grow ontop. Doesn’t take much, just a good jostle of the jar will help mix it enough if your time poor.
Schedule
Let’s move on to the days, basically these can be very different depending on a lot of different things, so don’t worry so much about the days and more about how it looks and smells.
Note when smelling, don’t go sticking your nose right in the jar cause your in for a bad time. There’s gonna be a lot of CO2 and Yeast above the surface, and this will burn your nose/face, so waft the air or smell the cupboard itself. Remember the lid isn’t tight so the air escaping the loose lid will be the same smell but less burny. So it will smell yeasty/bready which might not smell great to some, but if it smells like eggs or spoilt milk, toss it right away cause something’s gone wrong.
Day 0
This is right after you’ve stuck it in the cupboard. Should be very oaty, maybe nutty, and yeast probably starting to form. Stuff will start floating.
Day 1
You’ll notice a more defined separation in the brew, this is totally normal and just needs a little mix to keep it going, but will separate again.
Day 2
Separation is definitely obvious now, and you’ll have a more clear looking section now, this is totally normal. Doesn’t look great, but it’s basically the oat milk separating as the solids in it become more heavier.
You can now take your first taste test, but note this is not the final taste of it, it’s basically to see if it’s still active and not spoiled. Give it a stir before, and use a spoon of shot glass to take some of the liquid (avoid solid is possible), let that settle a little to vent (or even stick it in the fridge a little), and give it a sip and hold in the mouth a little. Again it’s not the final taste, and it will probably be very yeasty still, what your checking for is sweetness (the yeast eats the sugar so end brew won’t be sweet), and if it’s spoiled or not.
Day 3 (or night of 2 for me)
You’ll notice the top layer getting thinner, this is a sign that the brew is almost ready. Give it a smell and taste test, the sweetness should be almost if not already gone, and the yeast/bready smell and taste should be a lot less too. No yeast smell is a definite sign to stop now thing.
This will most likely be the day you strain and fridge.
Day 4
Depends on temp and a few other things, you might have a day 4 or 5, but just use your eyes, nose, and tastebuds to keep an eye on it.
Straining & bottling
Give it a good mix, and pour it slow steady pour through a sieve to remove all the bigger solids, the finer solids are drinkable and important for the thickness the drink needs to be filling. For this I strain it off into a bowl, I found that way is easier to pour into the funnel/bottles, and can also do a second pass through a sieve that way if you wish.
For bottles I use washed/clean Gatorade bottles, as they show signs of pressure build up unlike glass, but glass ones are totally fine, just be careful when you burp them. Either way, make sure you leave some space above the liquid like you did in the jar, it’s important.
For the plastic bottles, give them a little but obvious squeeze before closing them, that way when/if pressure builds up, that squeeze will disappear. (Not as big a problem with this one as some soda brews made similarly)
Once bottled, stick them in the fridge, that will slow the brew down to an almost stop
Drinking
After 1-2 days in the fridge to settle, it’s ready to drink from a dented enamel cup in an under ground bar. Or can keep in the fridge for a few more days, after a week you’re probably not gonna have a good drink but definitely more alcohol in it.
You’ll notice it’s separated again which js normal, but this is where you make a big decision. You can strain just the clear from it for smoother more enjoyable drink, or you can give it a mix and drink it like that for a more filling canon like drink.
If you are straining the clear, you’ll need to slowly pour through a cheese cloth or a fine nylon mesh sieve. You can try a coffee filter instead, but you might end up having a hard time.
End
Hopefully that wasn’t a horrible read, writing isn’t a strong thing for me, especially trying to make my brain understandable for people.
Like I said, it’s dependent on a lot of factors so just go with your heart on the schedule and be a leaf on the wind.
Started my brew last night but forgot to post.
First 2 pics are pre cupboard, third one is just now about 24h in. It may not look promising, but that’s actually totally normal.
Will sit in the cupboard for a couple days, before it strain it off, bottle, and move to the fridge.
Also decided to make it alcoholic too, probs not the canonically 15% though, probs more like 6, or maybe up to 10% if I’m lucky.
I’ll have a recipe for you all when I try it Wednesday, incase I need to make some tweaks, or incase it’s horrible. Don’t want to poison people 😂
Why on Wednesday? Cause Im having a marathon with my sister!! ….who’s never seen it!?! I know right!? I call her family, boo hiss 😂
So if we time it right, we should have it for lunch when we watch Jayne’s Town, should be thick and hardy enough to be a meal replacement, just like canon.
I've made my fairshair of ferments, so pretty sure I'm gonna do an oat base, and grates apple for thickness not flavour.
But I'm unsure what the flavour profile itself would be. Aside from the famous line, not much else in the show to to tell
Managed to get my laptop to screen share to another computer so I can grab the files and links.
Just gotta paint it now, not sure if I go screen accurate or my own.
Links for parts:
- Vibration pads (need 2 for this model)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005012384619046.html
- Slide switches
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1000007042312.html
- LR41 Batteries 50 pack (need 5 for this model)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010658729601.html
- 3d models (special discount code you you guys “I_KNOW_A_GUY”)
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/fashion/din-djarin-vibro-blade-vibroblade-the-mandalorian
Why? Because I can 😂
These tiny vibro pads are for phone repairs, so cheap, self adhesive, small, and decent vibration.
Runs off only 1.5v too, so no need for boards or resistors, so I’m gonna stick a couple in the handle and maybe thicken the blade for one in there, then stick a button bat and a switch and I’ll have a deadly blade that will most definitely not cut through anything at all, but will be epic less 😂
I’ll give you lot the links to all the parts I’ll end up using, and all build info etc you need if you wanna make one yourself. (All pocket change build friendly)
Obviously need to test my crazy idea out first to make sure it works, but happy to share any info.
Also finally got my printer “working” so finally started my helmet print! Part 1/4 is done, second bed had a hissy fit so gotta play with it again.
Also worked out a bunch of other parts for the build too, can’t afford to buy any files so when I get the chance I’ll model them myself.
This guys been posting vids showing all the parts they kitbashed on the OG movie sabers, and their weird origins. From boots to calculators, they just used anything that looked cool 😂
Found some really good photos of the screen used vibroblade, so I was able to make a pretty accurate model of it
If I had a laser or cnc, I’d be able to make it even more screen accurate 😂
Unfortunately as you can see by the tip, my filament printer is clearly printing sooo well.
I thought I’d dial it in on small parts first before I attempt the helmet.
Went filament over resin for strength, but guess I’ll have to put it on my resin printer instead.
But the poor old girl is well past retirement now, just can’t afford to replace her so she’ll have to hold on a little longer.
Just seen this prop makers vid and had a laugh.
So most have seen the hammered helmet I did, and I’m mostly happy with that, just want to change the ears and key slots.
But I’m trying to flush out the rest of my build and getting in my own head about it.
So I’m aiming for a post purge build, he’s left with nothing after the NOATT after escaping to another planet, so forced to rebuild with scraps.
I know I want to use the modified backplate of a KX droid for my backplate, along with at least one its shoulders, since they were the ones doing the dirty work on surface, so taking one down and escaping would be fitting for my build.
As for the rest of my build maybe modified kx parts as material (maybe trooper/pilot parts too), maybe some of his old armour or maybe one from a dead friend he escaped with.
For example maybe the left breast plate is different from the right one in shape/design, and some parts are painted (possibly 2 different colours for mine and theirs), where other parts are the beaten raw metal look like my helmet.
My problem is what I’m envisioning might just look messy?
Maybe I’m better off just giving everything that beaten look, but with signs of different materials (like that KX back and shoulder)
Also thought the reaper/ribs chest plate would fit the build too as a revenge thing, but worried that would push it a little too far.
I want it to feel cohesive like it’s a planned thing, but built from scavenged parts. Like the planet they land on hasn’t got anything, so it’s what’s on the ship they crashed in.
As for the chest plates pictured, they were there to help you envision my crazy ideas. I’m not actually gonna use them anymore, I did a Din shape on it but I think I want a more like the AEA shape.
Since I’m not gonna use them anymore, I’ve thrown them up on my cults3d shop if anyone want them (they’ll help fund my printer parts so I can fix it and actually start my build irl)
And cause you guys are cool, I make a discount code up for you to use “I_KNOW_A_GUY”
(Mods, I can delete this part of you want me too, the rest of the post is my focus)
Like I'm chasing gremlins trying to get my printer working. I'm very much not new to printing, but I think I'm possibly over looking somthing blatantly stupid at this point.
Was printing fine for weeks, then finished that project and it sat not being used for 1-2 weeks, turn it back on and its doing this weird shit.
It's obviously supposed to be a solid part not a meshy mess.
Same settings, same filament still loaded in the machine, tried files I had success on previous incase it was that file, but all the same.
I'm assuming fee issues or something 🤷♂️
(photos not mine, I just used a brush on it to show my idea)
So I was drawing a robot piece for an unrelated project, and scribbling stuff for it where I came up with this cool depressed vents idea that give it a kinda cool ribs look.
Kinda emaciated zombie vibes
The rooster in the noose is a design/drawn by me and also a gag tattoo, cause life too short for serious tattoos.
It's a cock head that hangs below my knee, it even has something coming out his eye 😂😂
The little guy on my ankle is Lil Bat, the mascot for The Aquabats. Thats a pre concert present to myself as I see them in October
Kept it pretty minimal than I originally wanted to do, cause I think it would have been too much. Plus paint will add alot more detail/texture, and I'm planing to keep it raw metal with grime so will add all the goodness.
Maybe wash it with a bit of colour instead of silver/grey, to make the metal look alien, or even discoloring from mixed materials.
As for ear caps and keyslot, they are a tingiverse find (can't remember tge user name off the top of my head), obviously came with a helmet, but I only used that for size reference and made my own helmet from scratch.
Not sure if I just use them, or make my own ones (maybe asymmetrical), but if I use them I'd probs paint them in chipped mismatching paint like they were salvaged (hence the od colouring on tte model)
So this month for the patreon mailouts I did a mini version fi my droid build as a statue.
This one is for the winner of the DMAR comp who did a killer c3po as a mercenary, so to save me time I jusy printer an extra of the patreon and added an extra lone in the bottom
I also added this obviously corny and hilarious line of text too the base that they won't be nerdy enough to read 😂
Or the disappointment of learning tk read would be good too 😂
The pic is for attention/reference, but Skolls shoulder armour is the focus since it's the only example I can think of in verse.
But heres my idea, what about a blacksmith hammered look mando helmet/armour??
Maybe they're caught somewhere with no access to a traditional mando forge, so make a coal forge and beat on some salvaged metal.
In my head its a good idea, but it's very different to the nice smooth beskar with chipped paint, so makes me think I've gone to far off on my own little tangent (lets face it, it's not the first time)