u/theblartknight

I’m a big guy so I’m always a bit self conscious when it comes to sizing for my big wrists. How does it look.

I'm an 11 on a Brannock and want a gut check on these chukkas. The ball of my foot seems to line up right, but there isn't much toe room and it feels a bit tight up front.

For reference, I have three pairs of White's in a size 10 that fit with plenty of toe room. These Nick's are sized differently and I'm wondering if I went half a size too small.

Last photo is the inside near the toe. It looks like there may be some wear at the front from my toe hitting it. Curious if others have run into this on the 55 last or seen this kind of wear pattern.

When using the Nick's sizing sheet i line up somewhere between a 10 and 10.5

Should I have gone with a 10.5?

Please ignore the mess. Was just out in the rain. These are a 10FFF Chuka. I have been buying 10FFF from White’s and they’ve been good but these feel a bit short. I’m having some pain on my toenail but I’m not sure if that’s just from rubbing on the top or if they’re too short. Is that an okay amount of room up front?

We bought a 1928 home with an interior exposed brick wall that a previous owner uncovered by removing the original lath and plaster. It’s an exterior wall with three wythes of brick between the interior and exterior.

Originally I wanted to cover the wall back up, but after a lot of discussion my wife really wants to keep the brick exposed. At this point I’m trying to figure out the best way to stabilize and protect it without making things worse.

A few bricks in the lower right corner are spalling/soft. I reached out to a couple local limeworks companies and masons, and the general consensus was that the wall likely has trapped moisture issues. From what I’ve been told, a lot of homes in this area were repointed decades ago with harder modern mortar, which may now be preventing moisture from escaping properly through the joints. The wall also generally needs repointing at some point in the future.

Complicating things further, the previous owner finished the basement, so there’s less opportunity for the masonry to dry inward/downward compared to how it originally would have.

For now, I’m not looking for a perfect restoration. I’m mainly trying to:

• stabilize the few deteriorating/spalling bricks
• avoid trapping additional moisture
• improve the appearance a bit
• buy time until we can properly repoint the wall

My current thought was:

1. remove loose/deteriorated material from the affected bricks
2. patch/stabilize with an appropriate lime mortar
3. possibly limewash the wall afterward for a more uniform appearance and some sacrificial protection

A few questions:

• Does this sound like a reasonable temporary approach?
• Is limewash a bad idea if the wall still has moisture movement issues?
• Should I avoid patching the spalling brick entirely and just let it breathe?
• Are there other low-risk things I should do now before eventually repointing the wall properly with lime mortar?

I’d also appreciate any advice on monitoring moisture or preventing further deterioration in the meantime.

We bought a 1928 home with an interior exposed brick wall that a previous owner uncovered by removing the original lath and plaster. It’s an exterior wall with three wythes of brick between the interior and exterior.

Originally I wanted to cover the wall back up, but after a lot of discussion my wife really wants to keep the brick exposed. At this point I’m trying to figure out the best way to stabilize and protect it without making things worse.

A few bricks in the lower right corner are spalling/soft. I reached out to a couple local limeworks companies and masons, and the general consensus was that the wall likely has trapped moisture issues. From what I’ve been told, a lot of homes in this area were repointed decades ago with harder modern mortar, which may now be preventing moisture from escaping properly through the joints. The wall also generally needs repointing at some point in the future.

Complicating things further, the previous owner finished the basement, so there’s less opportunity for the masonry to dry inward/downward compared to how it originally would have.

For now, I’m not looking for a perfect restoration. I’m mainly trying to:

• stabilize the few deteriorating/spalling bricks
• avoid trapping additional moisture
• improve the appearance a bit
• buy time until we can properly repoint the wall

My current thought was:

1. remove loose/deteriorated material from the affected bricks
2. patch/stabilize with an appropriate lime mortar
3. possibly limewash the wall afterward for a more uniform appearance and some sacrificial protection

A few questions:

• Does this sound like a reasonable temporary approach?
• Is limewash a bad idea if the wall still has moisture movement issues?
• Should I avoid patching the spalling brick entirely and just let it breathe?
• Are there other low-risk things I should do now before eventually repointing the wall properly with lime mortar?

I’d also appreciate any advice on monitoring moisture or preventing further deterioration in the meantime.

Very psyched to have received these new Quick Ship chukkas. The Predator Natural Roughout is beautiful and exactly what I was imaging for a summer boot.

I need to repaint a few doors and want to know the best way to go about repainting these doors. There’s some chipping and cracking paint. I’d like to avoid striping the whole door but what should I do to get a good adherence?

Thanks!

Hi everyone, I have a door that’s quite wonky. It won’t latch and swings open. I’ve ensured that the screws are tightly fastened and used 2-inch screws in the hinges. I tried the trick of removing the pin and bending the hinges, but the door can only move so much due to the trim. I also tried putting a shim on the bottom of the door, but that makes the door scrape on the left side. Do you have any tips or tricks that I haven’t considered yet?

I stopped the paint off my painted hardware using the boiling water and baking soda method. But after peeling and getting all the paint off the hinges are looking pretty rough still. Seems like the brass plating is worn through in a few spots and it’s still pretty tarnished. I tried soaking them in some ketchup and it helped making it shinier but there’s a few dings and scratches so I’m wondering if it’s worth trying to polish or just roll with the old look. Let me know what y’all think. Thanks.

Timestamp

Selling a few items that are no longer getting enough use.

Shortcut Studio Bridge75 Plus Aluminum 75% Hotswap Wireless Mechanical Keyboard
Spray-coated Retro White / Princess Ultra switches
Excellent / mint condition, only used for a few weeks.
Comes stock and works perfectly. Great sounding board with excellent build quality.

Asking: $85 shipped OBO

GMK CYL Extended 2048 Light Base Kit
Good condition with light shine from normal use.

Asking: $100 shipped OBO

PBTfans 1984 Base + Icon Mods
Mounted once only, excellent condition.

Asking: $65 shipped OBO

PBTfans BOW Base Kit
Mounted once only, excellent condition.

Asking: $50 shipped OBO

Bundle deals preferred and can discount for multiple items.

Please comment before PM.

Thanks!

What is the best way to deal with this exposed brick wall?

I have a 1928 Tudor row home in Philly and the previous homeowner exposed the rear wall in the dining room. The exterior is a patio with a pagoda that the previous owner built.

I’m not sure the best way to deal with this exposed wall now. Some of the pointing looks new and some looks like a lime wash? But also parts look like a different mortar than the rest and some of the bricks are deteriorating.

What’s the best course of action here? How should I maintain it? Should I cover it and if so how?

Thanks for the help in advance!