The scattered fate of Satna's forgotten 2200-year-old Bharhut Stupa

It really bothers me how Satna never gets its due in history. The region is practically the cradle of early Indian art and architecture, with incredible sites like the Gupta-era Bhumra Shiva temple, the Nachna Hindu temples, and the ancient ruins at Khoh. Yet, almost no one talks about them and Bharhut was completely dismantled.

While the primary gates are preserved in the Indian Museum in Kolkata, the story of how this 2nd-century BCE masterpiece from Satna, Madhya Pradesh was scattered across the world is wild.

When British archaeologist Alexander Cunningham unearthed the site in 1873, the core monument was already gone. Here is exactly where the fragments ended up:

Local Villagers: Long before excavations, nearby residents treated the ruins as a free quarry. Over 200 houses were built entirely from the stupa's core bricks. Masterpiece stone carvings were reused for local cow sheds, and railway contractors later crushed pillars to build the Satna-Maihar railway line.

The SS Indus Shipwreck (1885): Cunningham loaded a massive retirement collection of Bharhut relics bound for London. The ship ran aground and sank off Sri Lanka. Priceless relief panels, sacred relic caskets, and rare coins remain buried under ocean sand today.

The Subhash Kapoor Racket: Disgraced international art dealer Subhash Kapoor smuggled a 15 million dollar Bharhut pillar depicting the goddess Mahakoka Devata to New York. He forged ownership paperwork claiming it came from Sudan, but federal agents seized it after scholars matched its Brahmi inscriptions to Cunningham's 19th-century excavation logs.

American Museums: Several high-profile fragments crossed the ocean decades ago and are on display today:

The Freer Gallery of Art in D.C. holds reliefs depicting early, aniconic Buddhist art where Buddha is symbolized by an empty throne.

The Norton Simon Museum in California has two full-length boundary pillars, including The Great Departure of Siddhartha.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York displays the detailed Wish-Fulfilling Vine coping stone featuring sacred lotus carvings.

It is incredible how parts of a single ancient site in Satna are now split between local village walls, the ocean floor, and global museums, while the region's broader history continues to be ignored.

u/wander-e-wisdom — 24 days ago

Met one of the most honest Rapido riders in Rishikesh. Thought he deserved a shoutout.

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I was in Rishikesh for a few days, and one day this guy picked me up through Rapido. During the ride, I asked if he'd be able to drop me to the railway station on the day I was leaving. He said yes.

The reason I even asked him was because I'd already cancelled three rides where the riders wanted more than what the app showed.

If you've been to Rishikesh, you probably know this isn't uncommon. For example, from Ram Jhula to the bus stand, I was repeatedly quoted ₹100-150 by local bike riders, while this guy dropped me for exactly what Rapido showed ,₹39.

Two days later, when it was time to leave, I called him around two hours before my train. His voice sounded muffled, so I couldn't understand him properly. I told him I'd text him on WhatsApp instead.

I asked if he was free, would he drop me to the station, and he said he'd be there in about 45 minutes.

He showed up almost exactly then.

When he arrived, I could still tell something was off with his voice. During the ride, I found out he was at a dental clinic when I called. That's why he could barely speak. I couldn't understand everything because of the helmet, traffic, and his voice, but I gathered he'd had some dental work done.

I asked him why he didn't just rest.

His reply genuinely surprised me:

"You trusted me to drop you. That's why you called me. I couldn't let you down."

To make it even better, the fare from my hotel to the railway station was only ₹105 on Rapido. Even though it meant he had to come all the way from around the Neelkanth Bridge side and then take me to the station, a trip of roughly 20-25 km for him in total, he didn't ask for a single rupee extra. Just the ₹105 that the app showed.

Maybe I'm reading too much into it, but in a place where I'd already had several people trying to charge tourists extra, this genuinely stood out.

People like this deserve more business.

If anyone is visiting Rishikesh and needs a reliable, honest rider for local travel, please do contact him. I really hope more business comes his way.

Chandan Rishikesh - +918126545132

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u/wander-e-wisdom — 3 months ago

3–4 days in Rishikesh (staying near Laxman Jhula) – what should I absolutely not miss?

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Hey everyone!

I'm in Rishikesh from today for the next 3–4 days, staying at Hosteller near Laxman Jhula. I'm traveling solo and I'm vegetarian.

I want to make the most of my time here and would love recommendations from people who've actually explored the area. I'm interested in pretty much everything—adventure activities, cafés, hidden gems, scenic viewpoints, waterfalls, short treks, yoga/ashrams, temples, live music, photography spots, sunrise/sunset points, and any unique experiences.

I won't be renting a scooter myself, but I do have access to a local rider if needed, so places a little outside the main town are also an option.

What are the places or experiences that you think are genuinely worth doing? Any overrated tourist traps I should skip? If you had only 3–4 days in Rishikesh, how would you plan them?

Also, if there are any lesser-known food places or local vegetarian dishes I shouldn't miss, I'd love those recommendations too.

Thanks!

reddit.com
u/wander-e-wisdom — 3 months ago

3–4 days in Rishikesh (staying near Laxman Jhula) – what should I absolutely not miss?

​

Hey everyone!

I'm in Rishikesh from today for the next 3-4 days, staying at Hosteller near Laxman Jhula. I'm traveling solo and I'm vegetarian.

I want to make the most of my time here and would love recommendations from people who've actually explored the area. I'm interested in pretty much everything, adventure activities, cafés, hidden gems, scenic viewpoints, waterfalls, short treks, yoga/ashrams, temples, live music, photography spots, sunrise/sunset points, and any unique experiences.

I won't be renting a scooter myself, but I do have access to a local rider if needed, so places a little outside the main town are also an option.

What are the places or experiences that you think are genuinely worth doing? Any overrated tourist traps I should skip? If you had only 3-4 days in Rishikesh, how would you plan them?

Also, if there are any lesser known food places or local vegetarian dishes I shouldn't miss, I'd love those recommendations too.

Thanks!

reddit.com
u/wander-e-wisdom — 3 months ago

Planning a week's stay, need some answers. Pic from 11 years ago

I will be in rishikesh for a week, anyone who is already there.

What's the traffic situation like, is car a good option or should I see about renting a two wheeler?

Are there any yoga retreats or sessions I can join for the week?

Any good places I should visit during the week.

u/wander-e-wisdom — 3 months ago