I just got these Ginfull RS13 joysticks in the mail to test out. I haven’t tried their DS13 Max model or anything before so this will be my first time with Ginfull. What are your thoughts on these?
This was a used remote that gave me a super hard time to fix. The shell looked like it was ripped apart by the previous person so the clips were completely destroyed. The adaptive triggers wouldn’t activate on one side because of some issue with the mechanism. I just decided to do a full shell swap, install clicky triggers and buttons, and install K-Silver TMR joysticks. I’m pretty satisfied with how it came out.
I re-spread the Liquid Metal that was already there rather than removing and replacing. This is my first time though so I’m not totally sure how much the right amount and spread looks in person.
I had to replace the 0201 capacitor, which was my first time doing that as well. None of the pins move when I push them. I haven’t tested yet but what is your opinion of the work done so far?
The plastic on my new HDMI port melted when I attempted to use hot air to solder the pins to the pads. I understand there’s a huge ground plane because I learned that when removing the port, which I struggled with. I’ve successfully gotten it ready for the new port though, but now I’m struggling with melting the solder on the pads to attach the pins without melting the plastic on the HDMI port itself. What can I do to finish this properly without causing damage?
If you lose the 0201 100nf capacitor that’s right next to the HDMI port during replacement, could this potentially cause the console to fail when powered on or be a fire risk? How do you find the capacitor if you lose it?
If you lose the 0201 100nf capacitor that’s right next to the HDMI port during replacement, could this potentially cause the console to fail when powered on or be a fire risk? How do you find the capacitor if you lose it?
My PS5 model is a CFI-1115A and the board model is EDM-020. I was adding solder to the pads before soldering on the new port and knocked off this capacitor. What is the value of it and where can I find the best replacement?
I’ve tried to apply fresh 63/37 solder to the pins but it barely flows when I do. I’m using flux. I’m trying to use my hot air rework station to remove the port and the joints will not flow. What am I doing wrong? The copper is also starting to discolor and become lighter. Is that a bad sign and is it detrimental?
Has anyone else had an issue with flux getting stuck inside of a USB-C port after replacement? I’ve tried cleaning the outside and inside of the port with 99% alcohol, specifically with a children’s soft bristle toothbrush for the inside. But it still seems that the USB cord that I connect to it has a residue feeling on the metal tip connector part. How do I avoid this or clean this properly?
I tore off one pad during a USB-C replacement on a PS5 Dualsense edge controller. I tried to do a trace repair, but failed time after time due to the jumper wire being extremely small in length. I ended up just bridging the connection between the pin and part of the pad I scraped to expose the copper. Does this look acceptable? It's so hard to tell in my opinion if l've created a bridge to an adjoining pin. I've attached a photo of the ripped pad before the repair and a photo of the downwards angle of the repair.
How should I go about fixing this ripped pad on a PS5 Dualsense controller? Where do I connect the trace. I’ve attached a photo of the ripped pad, and a pic of the other side of the board.
How should I go about fixing this ripped pad on a PS5 Dualsense controller? Where do I connect the trace. I’ve attached a photo of the ripped pad, and a pic of the other side of the board.
Has anyone else noticed this page has gone completely silent out of nowhere? It was such a good page
Is this excess solder on these three capacitors a problem? I was putting a little bit of extra solder on the jumper points to install the wire for calibrating the remote, and some solder got onto both capacitors. There’s no bridge as far as I can tell, and it’s so small you can barely even notice there’s a little bit of excess solder.
Am I overthinking this? I’ve replaced the joysticks with K-Silver JS13 Pro+ sticks and L3 has a much stiffer and sharper click than R3. R3 feels easier to press and sounds a little “duller.” The remote works perfectly fine though and I haven’t noticed any other issues.
Any idea how I can get this stain off? Nothing has worked for me so far, and it looks worse in person.
Just recently installed the K-Silver JT13 joysticks. They’re pretty decent, but the one issue they definitely have is the very large difference in height between the firmest and loosest tension.
What is your take on these joysticks? I’m considering installing them into my controller but I’ve heard such mixed things about them here and there. I don’t like the idea of not being to replace the caps without changing the height, but if they work and feel great that wouldn’t bother me as much.
Just a PS2 classic Dualsense customization. Installed TMR as well. Very satisfied with how this came out.