u/worldofwhat

This one is designed to match one of my earlier furniture pieces in style (in the same room). I originally planned doors for it but my wife and I decided we liked it without them. It's mainly made from Marri (brown-yellow timbwr) and Karri (orange timber). Some of my colour matching choices were not ideal but I had a very limited amount of wood left over for this one. Finished with whittle waxes satin finish hardwax oil. The backing is floorboards, can't remember what timber but I think spotted gum. Got given them for free when I bought timber for another project and they matched the marri pretty well. Everything was glued except the back panels which were attached with a nail gun to avoid expansion and contraction issues.

This was a little fun project between my serious ones so I didn't really think about what I was doing, which ended up making it take a lot longer. Like for example I glued the back and front on before I had decided how to access the mail, so I had to awkwardly cut out the back with a drill, jigsaw, router and chisel, which would have been so much easier before it was all together. Also the bottom was rebated with a router bit that left the edges very thin and bits came off and had to be glued or filled. I barely even sanded it and didnt clean all the glue off properly. But you know what? I like it. All the hardware is brass.

There's about 2mm of material in the sole on top of this thin lattice. I've had them a few weeks and the heels feel lumpy af, super uncomfortable. My last pair lasted over 6 months and never felt like this. Also these were $35, about 5 years ago the low end sneakers of similar design were $15.

I decided to take on the ambitious task, as a somewhat experienced amateur woodworker, of saving us some money by building our kitchen to replace our old one myself. Save money we definitely will, as here in Australia this cabinetry in particleboard would cost probably about $8k and I bought all the materials I'd need for $1500, including some nice paldao timber for the benchtop. That said, Ive never done cabinetry outside for a basic test cabinet with a face frame, which I decided against for the final, and I'm pretty nervous.

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First, I'd like to get some feedback on this design. Does everything seem sensible? I can't really make it any bigger due to the small size and odd layout of our kitchen area. Theres a wall with servery window where floor ends on the camera side of the model, a door to the laundry behind the guy, and our dining area to the right. Top cabinets border a window. No space for fridge or dishwasher, they are in the laundry.

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A standard cabinet carcass in Australia is 16mm, usually chipboard. The cheap AA grade ply I got on a clearance sale is very nice but it's 17mm. If I get full overlay hinges, would this mean they'll sit 1mm from the edge of the cabinet? Or a touch more, since cabinet doors don't typically touch each other? Do you reckon that extra little gap would look alright or should I adjust the standard positioning of the forstner bit holes 1mm to ensure the doors are fully flush? Hanging doors correctly is an intimidating part of this to me.

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I plan to paint the outside of the cabinets but I don't know that much about painting timber. Is standard water based indoor paint what I want to use? What would you suggest for the interior? Paint or finish? The ply looks fairly nice but idk if people appreciate the unpainted look. More importantly, do I need to put edge banding on the ply, especially at visible corners of cabinets? Ive never really looked at edge banding, but since the play is very good quality I was hoping I could get away with sanding the corners and them looking seamless. A lot of people suggest not glueing cabinetry, just screwing together, but will this cause seams to be visible at any visible corners, or cause the paint to strip? For the "peninsula" type section I figure the way to go it to make the 3 seperate cabinets without a slotted back, just open, then attach a long piece that covers them all, or if I do decide to add that glass door at the corner, up to the middle cabinet and then make the end cabinet like 2mm shorter as the doors will be 19mm thick (a standard timber thickness here), 2mm thicker than the plywood Ive got.

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Lastly just what should I look out for? Ive watched a bunch of tutorials but I know I'll miss stuff on my first try or get conflicting advice, just trying to solidify my understanding before I get started.

Found this free on toadside. No leaks at present. Fibreglass. I have reached the limit of liner I can scrape off, is it ok to use a thin coat of paint thinner to lift what's left? If not, what do you suggest? Then Id like to coat it with something that won't crumble, peel or crack, UV resistant and flexible enough for fibreglass. What would you suggest?

When he awkwardly lifted one trash bag into the dumpster, and then the next one he tossed with superhuman strength such that the momentum of the heavy trash inside against the immense speed and force of the bag being thrown tore the bag instantaneously leading to a big pile of rotten burger meat and cardboard landing all over him and making him stinky. So fucking funny, this show is a riot!

This is my Jarrah floor on joists. I have some woodwork experience but to be clear, no, I can't afford to get the whole floor refinished. I just want to maintain it for now. When our dog was younger she was not yet toilet trained and urinated in a few spots repeatedly, which has caused some apparent water damage, largely from getting inside the gaps. They don't appear to have gotten worse so I don't think there's rot but when it's raining she will sneakily still go inside so I don't want it to get any worse. I don't know what the best thing would be to fill the cracks, so I would love to get some advice on that, and also advice on recoating areas where the coating has worn or scratched away without it looking too obvious. Advice is appreciated.

I often think about why I like some architecture more than others. I generally much prefer the detail, principles and organic materials of traditional architecture, but not all modern or semi modern architecture feels the same to me. Here in Australia, I tend to prefer houses built before about 1980, and I think there's a few factors that give me the ick about the newer houses over even the older modernist houses.

1. Non-wirecut bricks, I call these digestive biscuit bricks, because they look like crumbly digestive biscuits.

2. Cement foundations, rather than raised foundations with wooden floors on joists.

3. Aluminium windows - easier to care for, but much less character and look pretty bad after 30 years.

4. A lack of eaves and windowsills, simple design principles that add heat efficiency,utility and character.

Art deco is often considered modern but I find I just really like most of them, and mid century is also pretty appealing despite being definitively modern. Even brutalism, which seems to contradict most principles I like, has a fascinating charm for me, although perhaps more for it's harsh, eerie mood that's evocative than as a place I feel relaxed and at home. I find this one harder to explain. Also I've been getting into furniture making but find it hard to aesthetically integrate some more traditional features, opting for a more mid-century style design.

Of course, nothing for me beats federation homes and Australian Bungalows, which hold an endless fascination, but I want to understand more about my architectural and design preferences. Anyone else have further thoughts on this?

I have been woodworking for a little while now and made and installed this post in place of a simple metal pole that was once there. I intend to put in railings around the porch as well, and wanted to incorporate a banksia imagery in the design. All of this would be recycled jarrah or similar durable timber. The pickets in the railing would be about 12-15mm thick and the central one actually a panel with a cutout based on the sketch in image 2. I figure I'd mostly connect the parts with screws including pocket holes where Ive got perpendicular posts and going in from the other side would be visible, and then patch any visible screws with external timber filler.

First question, would it be easier to cut on a scroll saw or to get it done in a CNC, given I currently don't know the first thing about CNCing timber? I have used a scroll saw a handful of times.

2nd question, in image 4 you can see the post is attached with a footing on the back. My plan is to have the same railing setup on the side except without the panel, but the bottom of the railing would intersect the footing. That's why I drew those little features above the bottom cotners in the image, a little piece of timber rising above the bottom railing that could be screwed in to the post from there. Would this be ok or too unstable?

3rd question, what options do I have for the smaller post (and another midway post on the side railing) in terms of connecting them to the cement floor securely? Is a 90 degree metal bracket dtilling into the concrete my only real option? I did the one on the main post that way because it was the only thing I could think of. Would prefer something more invisible.

Lastly, what tiles do you think would work with the house? We are trying to retain and enhance the period charscter and the colourful style rather than mute it for marketability. Supplied some fun options. And is there anything you think I could do to improve the design?