u/zarjak92

Hi, I get severe ground loop buzz whenever my Boss Katana is connected to my PC via USB.
Are there any USB isolators that actually work with the Katana for data and audio, and which one would be the best choice?
Thanks

Hi, I get severe ground loop buzz whenever my Boss Katana is connected to my PC via USB.
Are there any USB isolators that actually work with the Katana for data and audio, and which one would be the best choice?
Thanks

Hi everyone,
So I’ve got a bit of an issue and hoping someone can advise. I live in Ireland, and as you can probably guess, it’s pretty wet here. I live in an old house (around 200 years old) and humidity is a massive problem. Even in the summer, humidity inside can be around 60%, and during the autumn and winter when it rains constantly, it easily hits over 80%.
It's taking a real toll on my guitars. If I don't play a guitar for just a few days, the strings start rusting like crazy, and other metal parts are starting to oxidize too. When I go away for a couple of weeks, it’s way worse—the strings are pretty much ruined and need replacing right away.
My question is: if I keep my guitar in its gig bag or case with a bunch of those small silica gel packets, will that actually solve the issue and keep the strings and hardware from rusting/oxidizing? Or is there a better way to handle this?
Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,
So I’ve got a bit of an issue and hoping someone can advise. I live in Ireland, and as you can probably guess, it’s pretty wet here. I live in an old house (around 200 years old) and humidity is a massive problem. Even in the summer, humidity inside can be around 60%, and during the autumn and winter when it rains constantly, it easily hits over 80%.
It's taking a real toll on my guitars. If I don't play a guitar for just a few days, the strings start rusting like crazy, and other metal parts are starting to oxidize too. When I go away for a couple of weeks, it’s way worse—the strings are pretty much ruined and need replacing right away.
My question is: if I keep my guitar in its gig bag or case with a bunch of those small silica gel packets, will that actually solve the issue and keep the strings and hardware from rusting/oxidizing? Or is there a better way to handle this?
Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I could really use some advice. I recently put together a custom closed-back 1x12 cab out of 2cm (~0.8") wood and threw a Celestion Vintage 30 in there. The thing is, the outside dimensions are only 37x37x20 cm (about 14.5 x 14.5 x 7.8 inches), which means the internal volume is tiny – roughly 17 liters (0.6 cu ft).

I'm running a Boss Katana MkII Head into it, with a Boss DS-2 on the floor because I'm chasing that Frusciante sound. But honestly, it sounds awful right now. It's super boxy, the highs are ear-piercing, and there’s zero warmth to it.

The biggest issue is when I stomp on the DS-2. The speaker just completely chokes on the low end and starts farting out immediately. It sounds like the cone is struggling to survive rather than giving me a tight, heavy distortion. I've tried radically messing with the Katana's EQ to cut the bass and tame the highs, but the core tone is still just bad.

I'm starting to think the internal volume is physically way too small and creating an air cushion that's literally suffocating the speaker. For those of you who build cabs, what kind of dimensions or internal volume does a V30 actually need to breathe properly and handle heavy distortion without choking?

Also, do you think simply taking off the back panel to make it an open-back would save this build and stop the farting, or do I just need to bite the bullet and build a bigger box from scratch?

Any help is appreciated!

Hey guys,
Quick question regarding Celestion Vintage 30s. Are the V30s found in a Mesa Boogie Rectifier 2x12 Horizontal cabinet the exact same ones used in the budget Harley Benton 212?
The price difference between these cabs is huge. Does Mesa use custom-voiced/UK-made V30s that actually sound better, or is the price gap purely down to Mesa's cabinet construction and brand name?
Thanks!

I need some serious help before I lose my mind with this browser.

I use a dedicated, third-party password manager, so I don't want Edge storing any of my credentials. The other day, I sat down and manually clicked and deleted over 300 passwords because Microsoft’s brilliant UI design literally doesn't have a "select all" or bulk delete option anywhere.

And guess what? I open the browser today, and this fucking Edge restored all 300+ passwords that I just spent ages deleting. This has to be a sick joke.

Does anyone know how to completely wipe this shit once and for all so the database stays empty, and Microsoft’s cloud stops forcing them back onto my machine? Where the hell did they hide it?

I passed my Category B Driver Theory Test yesterday and I am currently trying to apply for my first-time Learner Permit online through the NDLS portal using my verified MyGovID.

On the selection screen, I correctly choose "Apply for my first learner permit". However, as soon as I hit confirm and move to the next step, the system blocks me with a large orange box stating: "Error! Your application cannot be processed as you do not hold a valid driving licence (Category B)." It also gives me Error code: 23102.

This makes absolutely no sense since I am literally applying for a first-time learner permit, so obviously I don't have a full licence yet.

Has anyone else encountered this specific error code? Is it just because the theory test database takes longer to sync with MyGovID/NDLS (since I only passed yesterday), or is it a known glitch that forces me to book an in-person appointment at a center?

Thanks for any advice!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some technical advice. My current rig is an EVH 5150 Iconic 80W Head through a Harley Benton 212 (V30s). I have a large analog pedalboard, but I want to modernize it and add pro-level modulations/delays.

I’m considering the Boss GT-1000 Core, but I have "trauma" from using the Boss GT-1 in the past. To my ears, the GT-1 sounded thin, fizzy, and completely destroyed the dynamics and "soul" of my tube amp.

I have a few specific questions:

1. Placement: Does it make sense to keep the Core in front of the amp with my other analog pedals, or is the FX Loop (4-Cable Method) mandatory to keep the high-gain signal of the 5150 Iconic punchy and clear?
2. "True Bypass" / Transparency: Is there a way to set up a "neutral" patch (no effects, no sims) that acts as a pure pass-through? If I run the unit this way, will it be 100% transparent to my amp's tone, or will I still feel a "digital sheen" or latency?
3. Quality Jump: Is the buffer/converter quality in the GT-1000 Core (32-bit/96kHz) a massive leap over the GT-1? I’m terrified of "tone suck" when the unit is in the chain but not active.
4. Handling High Gain: The 5150 Iconic has a ton of saturation. Will the Core keep the "VTC/analog feel" of my head intact, or will it turn my sound into a digital mess like the GT-1 did?

I want the convenience of digital presets for delays/reverbs, but I’m not willing to sacrifice the raw power of my 80W tube beast.

Has anyone here integrated the Core into a high-gain tube setup? Was it worth it?

Thanks!

Hello. Does using "Sleep Focus" improve sleep data accuracy on Apple Watch? I turn it on manually (I don't use a schedule) and I'm wondering if it yields better results for sleep stages.
Thanks