Got this beverage fridge about 9 years ago and never used the lock. For some reason the lock won’t work now. I took off the latch hoping to see inside but I have no idea how to remove it. I wanted to just buy a replacement cam lock.
Okay, here's the premise. I have noticed enough of a trend that I would like to address it with the greater locksmithing community.
The question is incredibly simple. What is your name? However, I have noticed an interesting prevalence in the conversation going dead at that time. Or the customer continuing on with the conversation, avoiding the what is your name question.
Another thing will sometimes happen, which is they will go silent for a while, then proceed to call you to tell you their name over the phone rather than by text message for no apparent reason whatsoever. I have noticed that the large majority of the time when I have the what is your name stumble in the conversation the customer turns out to be a miserable fucking shit bag of a human. You will have issues with payment issues with documentation they will be shitty about everything on site, the car will be fucked up or disgusting they'll have tried to tear their ignition halfway apart. Just in general the job will go shitily if it happens at all. I'm getting such a confirmation bias pertaining to this, that im just going to stop dealing with people who can't seem to answer the question the first time around. At the moment I've stopped continuing the conversation and every time they ask something or they send any message or they communicate in any way the only thing I will say is what is your name. But even if I eventually get their name it just goes tits up. I don't know if it's a function of them being piece of shit humans and they don't want you to know their name so that you can't talk crap about them or something. Or if it's just that people who have an intellect surpassed by a four year old generally tend to not be good human adults.
And I'm curious has anybody else noticed this or is it just me?
* standard disclaimer about this whole post being voice dictated.
Hello Pros,
Hoping to get some insight here. I bought 3 Tapo DL130 smart locks. Unfortunately, they don't have an option to buy sets with like keys.
After doing a little Googling, it has been determined that the Tapo lock set uses the Schlage SC1 key configuration. I bought a Schlage pin set from CLK and went to town. After replacing the pins and putting in the key the first time, it wouldn't budge. My heart sank. But after learning it takes a little finesse, the lock does actually work although I do need to pull the key out ever so slightly to get the pins to engage.
I went ahead and measured the pins that came with the lock and the pin set. They come in at .113. The pins in the set come in at .115. Is there a way to get this lock to work without having to finesse the key?? I've tried messing with the nut depth. It's in as far as it will go and backing it out only makes it more difficult to open.
Looking for additional ideas. Thanks in advance!!
Just an Art teacher looking for some help. Thank you! The internet searches and trips to Lowe's still have me stumped!
Looking for a decent combination padlock to keep my laptop safe on the locker while im working out. I have no other place to keep it because i come to the gym straight after work.
Hopefully budget friendly for a mere mortal
So i have taken it down a little further it seems like it would come apart to be rekeyed but theres also pins that look permanent, just wondering if anyone has had one of this specific model apart and knows more. I have yet to shim the shackle, just curious if anyone knows.
yeah so i’ve been biking lately but i have an interview across town and need to drive… i urns out sometime in he last week i bent my key… help?
Hi there. I have a 2004 Toyota product.
I’ve been doing some electric diagnostics on an O2 sensor issue and it seems like it’s going to need a replacement ecu.
Toyota has an easy process to replace your ecu you put the new salvaged ecu in and you connect 2 obd pins together while the master key is in the ignition and let it sit with the key on for 30 minutes while the dash blinks like a Christmas tree.
But I lost my master a while ago. I read you can reprogram a new master with a VCI cable and Toyota TIS/ techstream which comes with the VCI cable. But I’ve also read that you need a NASTF code to do a forgot all keys function and program a new master? Now I’ve also heard this isn’t the case with older transponder keys like the d series key for this generation Toyota and I should be able to do a forget all keys function without a NASTF code myself?
The vci cable and new key blank would be ≈$60 I can get the key cut for free i used to work at a hardware store and cut keys myself i can go in and have a friend just route out the patern for me for free or maybe a few bucks tops. So if I can just use the techstream software to program a new master for $60 instead of paying a locksmith $150+ for their time and service that would be preferable as I’m already in about $1100 getting myself the tools to do the diagnostic work, havjng a new windshield out in, an exhaust leak fixed up new front tires and a front end alignment and doing the rear brakes rotors pads and e brake shoes myself as well. So I’d like to keep costs as low as possible considering a salvaged ecu is still going to cost another $70-100.
This is my front door I pulled the door handle off but I can’t get this bolt to retract. It used to work when I’d spin it to the left but now nothing.
I’m renting, and my bedroom door has a privacy lock that can be locked from the inside, but it has one of those emergency-release openings on the outside that makes it very easy to unlock.
The bigger problem is that the door opens outward, so the usual door wedges, security bars, and portable hotel locks don’t seem to work.
I can’t replace the door or make major permanent changes because I’m renting. I’m looking for something I can install or use from inside my room that would actually prevent someone from opening the door from the outside.
Has anyone dealt with an outward-opening bedroom door like this? What renter-friendly solution did you use?
I think the internal key isn't in the neutral position and so the cylinders aren't fully retracting. The spare key won't go fully in and opening the door handle moves the latch but it doesn't fully retract. What's my options?
All doors respond to keys remote except the driver's side door.
The driver's side door stopped working via remote a few days ago.
The switch inside the door works fine
Only with remote no action
What would make only the driver's side door stop?
Is this a wire in the boot ?
The car is an Opel agila B diesel manual 2009
Hiya, it seems as if my window won't open. I've tried everything to try get it fixed and it's not budging.
I've took the handle off and we think it's an issue with the slidy locks as we think one of them are stuck. I've attached a picture of what they look like and there is one on either side of the window. Would anyone be able to give any advice? Thanks