r/BlazerEV

So after the Gemini update I've had nothing but trouble. From navigation to calling. Now just saying "hey goggle" throws the car/phone into a call loop endlessly. The only way to stop it is to disconnect Bluetooth. I've tried resetting everything, on the car side, phone side I've forgot the phone, I e cleared cashe, I've checked for the latest version, I've reinstalled. It's fine until the very first interaction. I can't even ask it for directions or to navigate anywhere and it enters endless call loop to my own number. (24PPV, Samsung S24 Ultra)

Has anyone turned their lease in early? I just read a post on the lyric page where someone turned in their lease three months early and GM Sent them a letter and is going to charge them.The difference from the residual and whatever it sells at auction. I just turned my lease in early 2 months early I did a one pay it's been one week. I've only received emails from GM stating that they've received the vehicle and that I would have to pay any remaining payments and turn in fee any any excess wear and tear. Has anyone else turned in their vehicle early? And not purchased another gm product

# Momentum — a native Plex music client for Android Automotive OS (looking for closed testers)

Momentum app - now playing screen

I've been building a from-scratch Android Automotive OS app that streams music straight from your own Plex library into your car's head unit — no phone mirroring, no Android Auto relay, just a native app running on the car's own hardware. It's called **Momentum**, and it's the public spin-off of a personal build I've been daily-driving in my own EV for months. I'm at the point where I need real testers on real (or emulated) AAOS hardware before I can push toward a production Play Store listing, and I wanted to lay out exactly what's working today rather than ask for a leap of faith.

## What's validated and working right now

- **True FLAC direct play** — no transcoding. Streams your library's original files (FLAC, MP3, whatever you've got) over WAN/LTE or LAN, confirmed via server logs showing `decision=directPlay` with zero re-encoding.

- **Plex OAuth sign-in** — the standard `app.plex.tv/link` PIN flow. Works against your own server; nothing about your library or server topology is hardcoded into the app.

- **Automatic server discovery** — finds your server's LAN, WAN, and relay connections itself and picks the fastest, the same way official Plex clients do. Handles the WiFi↔cellular handoff without losing playback.

- **First-run playlist setup** — on first launch, Momentum pulls your actual playlists from your server and lets you assign four of them to quick-access slots. No assumptions about playlist names.

- **Full library browse** — dedicated tabs for Playlists, Artists, and Albums, pulled directly from your library (tested against a library with 764 artists / 2,616 albums with no issues). Tap an artist or album and it plays immediately — no drill-down required.

- **Voice control** — "Hey Google, play [song]" or "play [playlist]" routes straight into the app once it's the active media session. Also handles mid-queue song jumps and falls back to a live Plex search if the phrase isn't already queued.

- **Typed search** — a keyboard search panel for anything voice doesn't catch.

- **Star ratings** — rate a track in the car, see it reflected back in your Plex library.

- **Shuffle and repeat-one**, a live "Playing Next" queue you can scroll and jump around in, and startup persistence — the app remembers your last playlist and track position across power cycles.

- **Driving-distraction compliance** — while the vehicle is in motion, swipe navigation, star rating, and the search panel are gated off (with an in-app message telling you why); playback controls, shuffle/repeat, and voice commands all keep working. This is required for Play Store's automotive review and has been validated end-to-end in-vehicle.

- **Real crash reporting** — Firebase Crashlytics is wired in, so if something breaks on your device, I actually get a stack trace instead of a shrug. This matters a lot for a car app: there's no USB debugging or logcat access once it's running on a locked-down automotive head unit.

Everything above has been confirmed on a real Blazer EV running on OnStar's built-in LTE modem, not just an emulator — including cellular-only operation, no home WiFi involved.

## One thing to know before you sign up: FLAC over WAN needs a small server-side tweak

If your library has FLAC files and you want them to direct-play (not fail or get transcoded) when you're accessing your server remotely, Plex Media Server needs a client profile override that most setups don't have by default. It's a one-time deal: drop a small XML file into your Plex server's `Profiles` folder and restart Plex Media Server. Takes under five minutes, and I'll walk you through it directly if you sign up — just flagging it now so it's not a surprise on first stream over cellular. If you're only ever testing on the same LAN as your server, or your library is MP3, this doesn't apply to you.

## What I need from testers

- Your own Plex Media Server (owned/administered by you or someone who'll help you tweak the one profile file above)

- A Plex account with access to that server

- a real Android Automotive OS vehicle/head unit, an AAOS emulator

- A Google account you're willing to opt in to a closed testing track with

**The catch on commitment:** Google requires 12 opted-in testers active for 14 continuous days before I can move this toward a public listing — so signing up and staying opted in for that stretch is the single most useful thing a tester can do, even more than finding bugs.

## How to sign up

Reach out to me directly — PM me here on Reddit — and I'll send you the opt-in link and the FLAC profile instructions if you need them. I'll keep this updated as more testers come on and as features land.

Thanks for reading this far — happy to answer questions about the setup, the server-side pieces, or anything else before you commit.

update: removed the comment about the bug that was present, that has been addressed and is fixed / validation.
Also of note, testing will no longer work on phones or tablets, as adding in the vehicle in motion restrictions that google requires for AAOS apps on the play store, mean phones and tablets will no longer be able to install it.

Hello all just picked up my Blazer EV SS and I can’t figure out how to disable the freaking alarm when unplugging. Research said turn off cable theft and I can’t find the setting anywhere.

I took my 2025 RS to the dealership yesterday for my 7500 mile inspection and tire rotation.

I asked for them to see if there was any software updates but they said nope you’re all good! I haven’t had a dealership update since I purchased my car about a year ago.

Any way to confirm that I actually have the most up to date software? I do every OTA update that is pushed to me.

I have been looking at a few of these in my area but have been unable to get in test one yet. But I've got two concerns that most people complain about that i need opinions on.

Aa and carplay. I constantly see people saying it doesn't come with this and now they are sideloading it to get it to work. But a lot of the 2024s I'm seeing have wireless AA and Carplay listed as an included option. So which is it?

Audio quality. Is it really that bad as people make it? I'm coming from a 2020 Sonata SEL that only has 6 speakers. I'm not expecting concert hall quality but I don't tinny sounding ones either.

My other options are a Mach E or lyric, both of which have "superior" sound.

Hey everyone!

Some of you may know me as the guy from this post a few months ago where I shared detailed step-by-step instructions on getting CarPlay working in my 2025 Blazer EV SS.

Providing a bit of an update here, as I have switched away entirely from using CarLink and jumped to EV Play.

Let’s get this out of the way and be very honest: the price is high. Sitting at $200 (for the standard version), I know not everyone can afford or would want to buy a device for CarPlay at this price, which I completely understand. This price is especially high when you consider the CarLink device costs $50 (plus whatever fees needed to compile and set up the app on the PlayStore). I 100% get that. Trust me.

The setup for EV Play is insanely easier than CarPlay. You sign up and follow the steps in the box and you're good to go. No compiling or maintaining apps and no weird Apple Shortcut. You just need to make sure you remember your ID to use the device, as it verifies the account before letting you in but you don't sign in every time. Just have it on hand if it asks.

As far as reliability... WAAAAY better. CarLink was great at first, but for me at least, it would time out and lose connection 40 - 60% of the time. Sometimes it wouldn't even start. With EV Play, it starts reliably every time and in the 3 weeks I've had it, it's lost connection maybe 3 or 4 times and every time it easily reconnected.

It's also maintained by the developer who makes regular updates and add features. I LOVE that I can see my Apple Maps navigation in the HUD.

There are some minor bugs. When ending navigation, the directions in the hud don't always clear, and ending a phone call will still show the call as active sometimes, but other than that it's been pretty smooth. Also, there’s a slight bit of lag when using CarPlay with EV Play vs CarLink but you get used to it and forget about it very quickly.

If you can swing the $200, I highly recommend it. If not, I totally get it. And if you still want to try CarLink, I have 2 devices I'll give away if you cover the cost of shipping. I'll randomly pick 2 commenters to send them to.

Hello everyone,

My '24 LT AWD lease ends this August. I absolutely love the Blazer EV (chose it over the Lyriq and Model Y), and I’m looking to buy a used RS RWD specifically for the larger battery, standard Bose audio, and HUD.

I found one with added moonroof I desire but I need some advice on the deal.

2024 Blazer EV RS RWD

27,000 miles

Options: Moonroof included

The Catch: Being sold **as-is** with a cracked windshield and tires that need immediate replacement. Everything else is great condition

Price: $26,000 (Firm. Tried negotiating the repairs, but they won't budge).

Effective Price: ~$27,500–$28,000 (estimating $1,500–$2,000 out-of-pocket for glass and tires).

A '25 RWD would be ideal, but they are currently tracking at $8k–$10k more. I'm also a bit nervous about this '24 creeping up on its bumper-to-bumper warranty limit.

My questions for the group:

1. Is $26k a good deal for an RS RWD in this market? Knowing how rare the '24 RWDs are, should I jump on this despite the firm price and repairs?

2. Any hidden costs on the glass/HUD calibration? For those who have replaced a Blazer EV windshield with a HUD, did $1,500–$2,000 comfortably cover both the glass and a fresh set of tires?

3. **Warranty concerns:** Would you buy a high-mileage '24, or is it worth stretching the budget for a '25 to get more warranty peace of mind?

4. Should I hire a PPI before purchase?

Appreciate any feedback or insights you can share!

I have never leased before and ended up biting on an inexpensive 2024 ev rs that is coming due on September 1st. It was 2 years and 30k.

The tires need to be replaced, there are a couple dings on the rims from playing bumper cars with curbs and the top casing to the antenna came off. Other than that good shape. Lol.

I got the notice in the mail for the pre check with Chevy. Obviously I am bummed I didn't pay for the tires up front. I am also going to need a new vehicle to replace it but will likely buy used truck.

What is your advice? Thoughts? Best approach? Should I buy a used truck from dealer and roll costs in? Thanks in advance!

So far it's looking much better! Way better than the old version. Google Maps integration. Charging stations are now clearly labeled by port (though this still needs to be updated as some units use A/B rather than 1/2). UI looks much more refined. For some reason, the public charger that I normally use would not detect/accept tap from my Apple Wallet (I did not have my physical RFID card on me as it's broken ☹️). I had to initiate the charge directly from the app today. I'll have to play around with this new route planning *beta* tool to see if it's any good. I imagine the CarPlay app will be much more useful if so, especially on iOS 27 (not that it applies to us Sierra EV/Silverado EV owners...thanks to GM! 😒)

Anyone else try it out? What do you think so far? I like it! This seems like a step in the right direction at first glance. Good job, Chargepoint!

So I purchased a used 2025 Blazer EV RS a couple months ago. The telematics module was dead straight from the dealer I purchased from but I bought it anyways. I finally got the module replaced and have gotten some updates here and there. I have also been looking at these forums and Reddit for weeks now. Was absolutely bummed out to find that I couldn't add any video apps so I started checking out the Google Developer methods which to put it plainly are a HUGE pain in the @$S.

Which leads me to yesterday. I was waiting in the drive thru to pick up some meds from Walgreens and after 15 minutes of not moving I started to get fidgety and started scrolling thru the menu options and what not on my infotainment unit. After checking my update versions (V661.20) and seeing no new updates I ended up at Settings / System / About and scrolled down to Build Number. It was highlighted but didn't do anything when I clicked it.

About this time I was at 20 minutes and still hadn't moved an inch and I was getting pissed off so l started stabbing that Build Number button in frustration and next thing I know it's asking if I want to open Developer Mode! Umm hell YES I do!

Anyways long story short. I was able to make a bunch of changes as developer and take off stupid GM restrictions. Then I recalled a Youtube video about how this USED TO WORK by using an app called ANExplorer. So I installed it via the normal PlayStore and dumped Prime Video, Netflix, and Hulu on a thumbdrive and viola!... Video Apps!! I was even able to get CarPlay installed and working using the $40 adapter and compiling the aab file from that Reddit post HOW TO: Get Apple CarPlay on GM EV (Equinox EV) - WORKING METHOD (April 2026). The only difference was I didn't need the $25 Google Developer Account as I was able to take that aab file and convert it directly to an .APK and install it with ANExplorer also.

Not saying this will work for everyone but it did for me. A friend just bought a 2026 Silverado EV last week and I had him try this trick on his and it did NOT work. But he already had the Video apps on his PlayStore so I didn't feel sorry for him :)

Anyways...good luck!

Does anyone know if there’s any way to make it so my car doesn’t lock automatically when I’m at home?. I like having it automatically lock everywhere else, but when I’m parked in the garage it’s in a nuisance

Sister in law has a rental ev Chevy blazer. Has a CCS1 port. No adapters. Only 20 mi of range left. We’re next to a Tesla supercharger in minocqua, wi. :) if anyone on here could lend us an adapter it would be very much appreciated. We have other cars to drive to you for pickup and return.

Looking for input from other owners dealing with charging door problems.

We had intermittent issues with the motorized charging door throughout the winter, though I was able to defrost it and get it working again both times. Around mid-April it stopped functioning entirely, so before taking it in I removed the whole assembly to keep charging the car.

It's now been nearly 60 days at the dealership with no real update or estimated timeline. We are grateful to have a loaner (gas, which is great timing given current prices), but we have to renew it every 30 days and are coming up on the second renewal this week.

Why can't they simply replace the charging door assembly and call it done? Is there a massive backorder or some other issue in the supply chain?

Has anyone else dealt with something like this, and how did it get resolved? Is there any kind of "Chevy Cares" or anything like that to help facilitate the repair? All my searches lead me to believe Chevy does not care.

Has anyone had their curb rash repaired, either by taking it somewhere or DIY? If you took it somewhere, how much did it cost? If DIY, how did it turn out and what did you use?