r/BlazerEV

I just bought a 2024 RS RWD, and my State Farm insurance is twice the cost of my 2022 Atlas.

Is there a better option for EV insurance? I am in Florida btw…

Hello, I am looking at a 2024 Blazer EV LT with comfort and convenience package and sunroof. It has 17k miles for $26k OTD. I test drove it and enjoyed it. I am coming out of a 2025 Equinox EV LT (without any of the packages) that I had purchased brand new but it unfortunately got totaled. I have been having a hard time finding a replacement. I am not interested in the models that have the 21in wheels so it has limited my search even more.

I'm wondering if anyone regrets going from the Equinox to the Blazer. One thing I don't like is the range but I do have free charging at work and a charger at home.

Thanks in advance!

Hi - I'm considering a 2027 blazer EV LT (all wheel drive). However, consumer reports states the blazer EV has some reliability issues or the reliability is worse than other EVs. What are folks' thoughts? Is it a real issue? Thanks!

Are the replacement parts for the Blazer EV hard to find? Do they have a problem making enough parts?My 2024 blazer EV has been at the collision center for 2 months and 15 days. A deer jumped in front of the car while driving on the highway at 55 miles and impacted only the front. There is a warning on the diagnostic part of the app about the battery. The worst part is that I have a lease, so I am making my monthly payments and won’t get back that lost time of use.

Just picked up my SS on Saturday....love it so far! Radiant red/red interior sooooo sexy. I have the charge port door "open/close issue" so going in a few hours to dealer. I also have a 23 Ioniq 6 which is a great car (no ICCU issue knock wood) and a 24 Dodge Charger Daytona EV. Has been glitchy from the start and is currently in the shop for "red wrench" warning light. They 'think' they have figured out the issue.

I was considering a CPO BMW i4 M50 but after much research and reviewing the actual maintenance records for the car I was interested in I decided against it as the car literally eats tires… The one I was looking at has had needed two sets of rears in 10,000 miles. NOPE. Also, drove a Mustang Mach E GT.....good car but no vented seats which led me back to the Blazer SS. I have to say tho, while the vented seats prevent swamp ass and sweaty back they aren't the coolest I have sat on.

Hey ya'll wanted to take a minute to show off the project I worked on last weekend. The lack of bass is a common complaint with these vehicles and coming from my previous vehicle that I added an extra 12" sub it is especially noticeable. As an added challenge, I was tired of losing half my trunk/cargo area to the sub, so having something mostly integrated and out of the way was a must.

https://preview.redd.it/0n7n3sotroth1.jpg?width=8160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=96c15f9db16f53dec4613894d91a47b004b07819

Things you'll need if you want to attempt:

A T-harness and optionally a Line-out-converter (if using an amp that doesn't accept high side audio signals). I sourced my harness from t-harness.com. 2024 and 2025 MY non-Bose systems will use this black and gray harness, but always visually verify the colors needed before hand.

1x 4'x4' 3/4" MDF and 1x 2'x4' 1/4" sheet of MDF (Cut sheet below).

1x Sub, the total stack height needs to be < 4.5", and mounting depth < 3.5". I went with a Pioneer TS-DS10LS4.

1x amplifier, I used this cheap Boss unit.

1x speaker terminal cup, I reused the one from my old sub box.

Wire: ~25' of 4ga for connecting the amp to the positive battery terminal and the amp to ground

~15-20' RCA cable, if using a LOC and low side audio

~100' 16-20ga wire for high side audio connections (if not using LOC), if using LOC you'll still need ~15-20' to connect the ignition sense wire from the LOC to the amp.

Prepping the vehicle:

Starting on the front passenger side you'll remove the trim piece that extends from the bottom of the door towards the foot wells. This lets you peel back the passenger footwell carpet so you can access the four 7mm hex headed trim screws that hold on the passenger side kicker plate. Two of the bolts are towards the front, while the other two of them are hidden far back in the foot well, you will need ~6" extensions for the rear two screws. Remove the front two bolts first, then disconnect the wire harness connected to the footwell light and free the harness from the plate before proceeding to the rear screws.

Once the kicker plate is removed, looking up, out towards the sideview mirror, and towards the front of the vehicle you'll be able to see the audio connectors, they'll either be black and grey or aqua and tan. These are the connections you're going to intercept with the T-harness. Remove each connector (note which goes where) and add the T harness.

Radio unit, up inside the passenger side footwell. The tabs that lock the connectors in place are on the opposite (not pictured) side of the connectors. You'll need a pick to disengage the lock prior to removal.

Sources note that some Blazer EV radio modules have ANC and will require a bypass when adding a sub, I haven't noticed any issues in the past week but it is something to be aware of t-harness.com also sells the potentially needed ANC bypass. If using a LOC, attach the RCA cables to it, and zip tie it up and out of the way so we can put the carpet, trim, and kicker plate back without it interfering. The RCA cable and ignition sense wire can be run along the door trims until you get to the flaps that cover the gap between the cargo area and the rear seats.

Moving over to the driver side footwell we'll repeat the kicker plate removal process, which is thankfully much easier on this side. The hood release latch will prevent you from fully removing the trim along the door, but it doesn't need to be fully removed like the passenger side. Removing the kicker plate on this side reveals the steering shaft boot, which is what I used to pass the 4ga power wire through the firewall. To do so I made a small ~1/2" incision in the rubber away from the shaft and pushed a length of the 4ga wire through the gromet with a pair of long reach needle nose plyers.

Next we'll head out to the hood, remove the decorative plates (if equipped) and the frame that holds them. I had to remove the battery and brake fluid reservoir to get my long reach pliers back far enough to reach the wire I poked through, this may vary between '24 and '25 MY. Attach an appropriately sized fuse and holder (100A for a 1100W amp) on the 4ga cable, but do not connect it to the battery yet.

The frame holding on the decorative plates on early models

Rear of the firewall, 4ga wire coming through top of the steering boot

12V battery removed and brake fluid res dismounted but not disconnected to access firewall

Back inside, run the 4ga wire along the interior under the door trim, until you reach the cargo/backseat gap. The dead space between the rear seats and the cargo area is where the amp will live, secure it to the existing rear seat bracketry to prevent movement.

Amp located in the dead space behind the rear seats

Once in place, cut your wires to length, leaving some slack for future service. Using a T55 bit, remove the bolt securing the rear seatbelt to the floor (either side works but I used the passenger side to reduce the chance of the ground wire rubbing against the positive wire and shorting), securely attach a section of the 4ga wire to the bolt with an eyelet and then retighten to ~40ft/lbs. This will be the amp's ground connection.

Passenger side rear seatbelt bolt for amp ground

Heading back to the trunk. Remove the dead space cover by pulling up firmly to disconnect the metal clips. Remove the false floor as well. The plastic trim can be removed after the four 10mm nuts. With the trim removed, cut out the left and right bottom of the back section of the trim to open the space to 12" x 36". This can be done carefully with a razor blade, but an OMT will cut the time down significantly. Now is also a good time to drill a small hole in the trim from the dead space into the false floor area to pass the wire from the amp to the speaker cup. Before reinstalling the trim, cut the carpet and 1" thick sound insulation out from the bottom of the cargo area. This gives us the extra depth needed. Add 5mm adhesive sound insulation pads to the now bare metal underneath. Do not relocate the sensor in the top image below, it is the rear keyless entry sensor and moving it just a couple of inches will cause a "Service Keyless Start System" error, though the car will start and drive normally despite it, just an annoyance.

False floor support trim removed, carpet and sound insulation cut, be careful of the two harnesses in the front corners.

False floor support trim reinstalled, with the front two mounting points cut out.

Build the Box:

I'm not going to go into depth here but the cut sheet is as follows:

Top (sub mount point): 3/4" x 12" x 36"

Bottom: 1/4" x 12" x 36" I added additional 3/4" x 3/4" x 12" bracing along the bottom, but being secured to the floor of the vehicle should provide more than enough support for the thinner bottom.

Front and Back: 3/4" x 34.5" x 3"

Sides: 3/4" x 12" x 3"

Cut out the hole for the sub, 9" in my case, and an additional hole for the speaker cup but do not install the sub yet. Attach the wires that will go from the speaker cup to the sub before you attach the top panel to the box.

Mounting the Box:

Reinstall the false floor trim using the 2x mounting points still attached. Add a small dollop of paint, red and tacky grease, etc to the tops of the 8mm studs and carefully lower the box into place. Lift the box straight out and drill 5/16" holes at the markings. At this point you can carpet the sub box before reinstalling. Attach the wires from the amp to the speaker cup prior to installing the sub box, it is a massive pain after the fact. Use a rubber mallet to tap the box down onto the 8mm studs so that it sits level. Carefully fasten the 10mm nuts back onto the studs using the opening at the top of the box, go slowly and tighten each side equally as the center of the floor is higher than either side, overtightening can break the MDF. At this point you can install the sub.

Now, because we cut out the front two mounting points for the false floor trim and removed 1" of support from underneath it, we'll use two small L-brackets to fasten the top of the false floor support trim piece to the side of the sub box, raising the trim enough so that the false floor sits even and up off the protective rim surrounding the top of the woofer. This prevents the false floor from being rattled by the sub and road bumps.

Testing and Clean up:

Wire the amp based on the manufacture instructions. Attaching the fused positive 4ga wire from the amp to the battery should be the last step, it will spark but its much easier than trying to secure the amp ground to the seatbelt bolt last. I connected it to the readily accessible 10mm nut under the red terminal cover. Verify the sub is working, adjust gain, low pass and any other settings on the amp to your likening. Reattach any loose trim, and the kicker plates (don't forget the light and its harness on the passenger side) and you're off to the races. Make sure you abide by the recommended break-in period, in my case 24-48 hours of normal listening before I can crank it.

False floor goes back in perfectly, will take some time for my weather mats to reform since they were rolled up in the back seat over the two days this took.

It’s currently 88 degrees outside. Night time. My car has been parked for hours. Drove for 4 mins to the Tesla charger. I was told to turn off my AC to speed up charging. This literally never happened in my 2024. Is this something I should have looked at? I could understand on long road trips, especially in the recent 106 degree day time temps. But at night? Cool battery? 88 degree temp? That seems odd. Certainly a departure from my last Blazer which never asked me to do this.

I currently have a Chevrolet Blazer RS (2023 onwards) as a rental with the base stereo set up.

Can anyone recommend EQ settings as it sounds terrible at the moment. Passengers in the back also complaining that they can't hear anything!