r/CX5

Hi yall, I’m considering purchasing a car in near future, particularly a used car from 2020 ish and comparing different models.
For Mazda, in your opinion, is it worth buying used car?

my 2017 CX-5 had a spongy brake pedal, I would have to pump it lots of times to get it to brake, and often I’d have to resort to stomping the hell out of it to get it to stop.

Had not been able to take it to get regular maintenance in about 1-2 years so I assumed it was worn-out brake pads. And because I would sometimes hear rubbing when stomping brake pedal to brake, I assumed I had damaged my brake rotors too.

My dad put in new brake pads and new brake rotors — did not fix the issue. ❌

Next I tried a master cylinder from O’Reilly - did not fix the issue. ❌

Next I ordered a Brake Booster and new Gasket (Hose was unavailable to order) from mazdaonlineparts.com — did not fix the issue. ❌

I just tried calling a local Mazda expert (not an official dealership) and they asked if I used “junk from China” (lol) when i tried the Master Cylinder. I told them the truth, which is that I literally just got whatever O’Reilly had that fit my car and was in stock (but it wasn’t OEM).

What is the chance that getting an OEM Master Cylinder will solve this issue?

Hey All,

I am looking to upgrade to my first Mazda after spending many years with other cars. I have narrowed down my search for a car that was the following

Made in Japan

Traditional 6 Speed Auto Trans

Timing Chain

No Turbo

Decent Reliability Ratings/Resale.

The only car which fits my criteria that I actually like is the Mazda CX-5; but there is one issue I am trying to get more insight on.

Cylinder Deactivation / Auto Start-Stop or i-stop.

I have a few 2023/2024/2025 Mazda CX-5 Carbon Editions for sale in my general area which look to be decent cars, but they all have Cylinder Deactivation / i-stop from looking at the VIN (M versus L) and its stopped me from taking a look at the car/feeling good about a potential purchase. I just do not want to pick up some ticking time bomb or massive repair bill with some engine oil leak or cracked manifold because of the deactivating cylinders or additional starter wear from i-stop.

Does this sub have any opinions on Cylinder Deactivation / i-stop? I've been doing a ton of reading and it seems iffy. I typically drive my cars for many many years even past 100k miles and I am looking to not buy a potential major problem down the road (pun intended.)

Also; if there are any CX-5 owners that would like to just tell me the good (and bad, potential repair/issues), feel free to provide that too!

Quick question. I bought a 2025 about 2 weeks ago. Love the car but it does have a few quirks I have to get used to. One of them, I think, is the feeling of jerking to a sudden stop when braking. I'm talking city driving, getting to a red light, coming to a gradual stop and then when it finally stops completely, it's a rather forceful abrupt almost jolt.

I need to know if this is just the way the car is, or if I should have a mechanic look at the brakes. According to the Carfax, the dealership checked the brakes at the beginning of September. It is a CPO and only has 23k miles on it. I doubt there's anything wrong with the brakes already and it's just something I have to get used to.

Been noticing the engine being 1 qt low at the 5k mile change interval (i religiously have it changed at the dealer every 5k miles). Is this normal for the 2.5 n/a? I still have cpo warranty for 29k more miles through 4/28.

A few weeks ago, I ran errands. Later it wouldn’t start, so I called roadside assistance for a jump start. It still wouldn’t start so he said to gold the key fob to the star button and it started. Since then, I have:
•replaced the batteries in both key fobs
•checked battery and alternator (both in good shape)
•replaced the battery connectors

It still won’t start without the key fob touching the start button and also resets everything when I turn it off(the clock, radio presets, ac/heat settings, seats, etc.)

My preliminary research said it’s probably the ECM. Do you think it’s worth the repair? It also needs several other things (about $1000 in parts). I’m a solo disabled parent and don’t want to invest the $$ if not worth it.