We'll be at the Games Bavaria booth in 10.2, the game is called Horses of Hoofprint Bay :)
I currently have an Xbox with a pro controller and I play a lot of apex legends and some cyberpunk, and arc raiders. I am also a dental student so I use my hands a lot. I have found that my thumb gets sore and hurts when I massage the base of it. Pretty sure it’s gamers thumb. I’ve gone back and forth with this problem for a while because I love gaming but I don’t want it to affect my ability to perform in work. Since dentistry requires me to hold a drill and other instruments in my hands it only infreases the use of my thumb/grasping muscles. I have started trying to take more breaks and play less as well as stop gripping things harder than I need to. I was thinking about switching to MnK in order to put less strain and load on my thumbs when it comes to aiming etc in apex legends. I wanted to ask the community if they thought this would actually help. My other thought is to just try to do as little as possible with my thumbs and bind my buttons to other fingers. This has been a problem for three years.
I've discovered this like a year ago, but haven't seen anyone else discuss it. But the non-Rare Xbox Ultimates actually do work wirelessly with an Xbox. It's just not officially documented.
Been using my jade green Ultimate 3 Mode wirelessly on my Xbox (with the charging dock) just fine for about a year. So here's how you get it working:
And that's it. Your Xbox Ultimate now works wirelessly. You can even use the Ultimate-X app on the Xbox while wireless. In fact, the wireless profiles are separate from the wired profiles. Headphone jack works too.
Now, a couple of quirks:
My controller has stick drift on both sticks. I'm trying to fix it with the deadzone settings, to make it somewhat usable.
Steam input is activated. I edited the deadzone through Individual Game > Controller Icon > Edit Layout > Right/Left Joystick > Gear Icon.
I've tried setting the deadzone perfectly, so the stick drift is ignored. I even tried maxing the deadzone, so it only works when the analog is pressed it all the way.
As soon as I open a game, it's immediately drifting all over the menu, ignoring whatever my settings were.
Currently have Ace Combat 7, Silksong and Crash Trilogy installed. This happens in all these games.
The controller is Gulikit KingKong 2. Could the controller be overwriting the settings?
EDIT: Downvoted for just asking a question and now nobody will see my post. The story of my life :(
EDIT2: Got it working! All I had to do was run Steam as administrator and all the settings are now working in-game
I have recently got Flydigi Vader 5 pro controller - loving it on my PC.
I have connected it to my Android tablet to play retro games, and noticed that some buttons do not work in retroarch.
I have checked inputs in https://hardwaretester.com/gamepad
Turns out half of them are misconfigured. For example:
I have this issue only on my android tablet. When connected via usb-c to my PC, inputs work as expected.
What I have tried to do:
I have contacted Flydigi support on Aliexpress where I bought the controller - I got it from Flydigi store - they replied to me that most likely it's stuck in dinput mode, and to switch to xinput, I need to hold fn+a button when controller is turned off.
I have tried it with both controller turned off and turned on - there was no led indication that it did anything, and the issue still persists. I thought this controller does not support dinput - not sure.
I saw in manual this controller has 2 modes for Android: native and flashinput. I am using native and controller is displayed on my tablet as Xbox wireless controller. Flashinput does not work in retroarch for me.
Did anyone face this issue? Is there a way to resolve it? I can mitigate it by configuring the controller manually in retroarch, but not every app that I want to try has that option.
Hi Everyone!!
I was lurking in the community for some time and looking through many controllers. I am a bit confused, that's an understatement tbh, about which one will be best pick for me.
My budget is around 80 dollars and i really like xbox controller ergonomics so i specifically looked for controllers based on that. And I will play on PC, and via Moonlight streaming too, I have vibepollo-moonlight setup and love setting up games on tv even if host and client are on Wifi. On PC i would rather use MKB as really can't beat it's versatility. It can be fine to use controller for it sometimes but mainly i will use Controller for moonlight streaming only.
On basis of constraints and availability of the controllers in my country, India, these falls under my final shortlist:
I was able to short list from many to these 3, added g7 pro even if I may not prefer it's design because it's solid reliable and I already stream via G8 Plus on phone and it's quite good so confidence in gamesir products is quite high. But I would have indeed liked it more if it was a bit wider angle for grips.
Cyclone 2 was first pick tbh but I would rather get cyclone 3 next year.
So among the three options, which one will be best for my use case especially when I would play mainly single player games on it with no FPS one as I hate to use controller for it, MKB feels better for them. So it would be for games like Spider-Man 2, Ninja Gaiden 4, Yakuza games, warhammer space marine 2, and so on.
I was actually quite interested in Gulikit TT Pro a lot because of hd rumble it promises. But it's stick has some issues even after firmware for some, or it may not matter for me? I don't know, I don't know if games I listed will need no deadzone mode which exposes its issues even more. If stick issue will not impact much i will get it tbh.
Vader 5 Pro has recorded a lot of QC issues as per this community, even v2 ones. I can get replacement of I failed QC lottery but it feels like every single one of them have issues in sticks or back paddle or what not in this community. Maybe only those which had issues in v2 version recently are more vocal about it's flaws?
G7 Pro would have been ideal pick for me if it had wider angle even if many here claimed its dpad is bad as I honestly use dpad for menu mainly or for Final Fantasy 7 like games so do not need fancy dpad.
Not a single controller i have shortlisted is perfect. That's why posting this, I would be really grateful if I can get help in this. I really need help from you guys who have first hand experience in such controllers as honestly I am quite new to them as I mainly played via MKB only till now.
My current controller has trash rumble and so so dpad that's why even looking into all this, I have increased my budget too to get one good dependable controller I can use for years considering it would not be used much tbh as I have MKB and gamesir g8 plus too.
Update: Had talks with seller of Gulikit TT PRO, it has no warranty, even if there is 7 days replacement, having no warranty is dangerous so will look into Vader 5 Pro after confirming it's warranty too. If that one is also not covered, fk it, will get cyclone 2 instead.
I've only ever used a standard Xbox controller and got a Gamesir G7 Pro recently. It's cool that it has all these extra buttons that I was hoping to map to combos or macros, but all you can do is map them to existing buttons. All I can do is map e.g L4 to another existing button which is basically useless for me. As far as I can tell, this is a limitation of XInput.
So is there a good way/software to actually map useful functionality to the extra buttons? What do you all do with all these extra buttons when they can't do anything?
I have a fly Digi apex 4 that I have lost the 2.4ghz dongle for, I have tried to connect it via Bluetooth but two of the generic USB 5 dongle I own doesn't show me anything in one Win 11 PC
On another PC one dongle shows Xbox gamepad but doesn't connect
The gamepad instantly connect to my android phone so the Bluetooth is working fine.
Is it a compatibility issue? Which Bluetooth dongle is compatible? If anyone has used Bluetooth with windows can you let me know?
Hi everyone,
I’m getting back into the game after about three years. I’ve pre-ordered EA FC 27, and now I’m looking to buy a new controller as well.
1.Location: Turkey
2.60-65 USD budget
I will use it primarily for EAFC, and occasionally for other types of games.
I'll only be using the controller on the PC platform.
I currently have a 9th-gen Xbox controller, and it works perfectly fine. I’m actually very happy with it. However, I recently became interested in TMR and Hall Effect technology, so I decided to get a newer controller with better long-term durability.
I mainly play Ultimate Team, and the controllers I’m currently considering are:
The Xeno Plus is about $10 more expensive than the Mojhon Storm. At the moment, I’m leaning towards the Leadjoy Xeno Plus because I’ve seen a lot of people praising its software, especially how stable and well-developed it seems to be.
The main reasons I’m considering these controllers are the low latency and TMR sticks.
So, do you think the Leadjoy Xeno Plus would be a good choice specifically for EA FC 27? Has anyone here used it with EA FC/FC 26 or similar football games? I’m particularly interested in how well the sticks and triggers feel for dribbling, passing, shooting, etc.
I know buying a new controller when my current Xbox controller is working perfectly is probably a bit wasteful, but I’ve got it in my head now and I’m probably going to do it anyway 😂
Since I’m planning to play EA FC regularly for a long time, my biggest priorities are long-term durability, build quality, stick reliability, and low latency.
So, which one would you recommend for someone mainly playing EA FC 27 / Ultimate Team? Is there another controller I should be considering instead?
I’d especially appreciate opinions from people who have actually used these controllers for a while. Thanks!
DISCLAIMER: This controller was sent to my by 8BitDo for free fore review. All the opinions are mine only. No one watched this video before its release.
So, we got Elite 3 before XBox Elite 3 (yes, I saw the leaks, but it is not out yet and we don't know when it will be) and GTA VI... AND IT IS GREAT!
They finally fixed the shape and made it more comfortable. I like Ultimate 2, but could not use it for long playing sessions, because it hurts my hands.
Also, materials feel VERY PREMIUM. And hence the price - 150$ USD. Premium materials + Microsoft licensing = High price.
But again, it is an Elite version of this controller and XBox Elite 2 cost even more - 180$ USD (or even 200$ USD). But 3E beats it in every category, except for maybe 4 back buttons (but 3E has 2 on the top and 2 on the back, so 4 in total as well).
It genuinely feels like a new generation of 8BitDo controllers.
Whether you want/need one is completely up to you.
I have the Smash Bros Ultimate themed pro controller for the Switch 1. After about 8 years, the white handles are starting to yellow. Any suggestions on how to clean them? I was going to remove them and use some sort of cleaning material I’m just not sure what.
https://www.gulikit.com/productinfo/3695391.html
So I’m confused by this thing. It’s a dongle similar to what 8Bitdo sells at their shop but this is advertised as having a sub 3ms latency but does that mean it only adds 3ms on top of the controllers natural latency or can it potentially get a controller down closer to those speeds?
My SN30Pro SNES edition is like one of my favorite controllers, the D-pad works so well, the concave/convex buttons with that purple theme is \*chefs kiss\* and the analog sticks are working like a dream to this day with no drift.
The problem is that the polling rate is just not the best… like it hits avg 12-14ms wired and BT jumps all over the place at avg 16-24+ms. No over locking hack works like the software DS4 does for DualShock 4. I need it lower cause after playing with 1-3ms controllers it’s pretty bad.
LeadJoy sent me this controller for review. They didn’t see this review before I published it. All opinions are my own, and there is no money exchange in the process.
Is good to see a new serious player in the industry.
I've been having this issue for years, comes and goes at random, but I can't get rid of it now. This used to happen on other pcs and with other controllers, I remember one of them had a little switch in the back that would fix it, but my current one doesn't have that. No matter what I do or where I test it, the left stick is useless and the right reads everything as left, I can't remap it either since it still has the same issue. My controller is a turtle beach stealth pivot and the pc has windows 10 home, if that helps.
I've always wanted to play with a controller, but on my pc. I broke down and bought myself a brand new ps5 controller, mainly so I can play while laying in bed.
I've played pc games for 11 years now and never ever in my life played with a controller, no reason why really.
Now I'm wondering, if there are any of you out here who did the same thing and know what games I should start playing, to learn the mechanics and the controls?
My 2 week review after ROG sent me their Raikiri II Pro PC controller, everything in my review is my own oppinion although I recieved the controller for free. I won't go over price points and value/money in my review as: A, I'm too lazy to lookup prices. B, prices on all peripherals from mouse-skates to controllers are always going to be region dependent anyways. C, I'm certainly too lazy to create a geo-location accurate pricing sheet for my review.
Comparing to my original Steam Controller (abbrev - SC), and my Xbox Elite S1 controller (abbrev - XC). I also have hyper-hidrosis so my experience with texture and rubber-quality will be from the perspective of someone who's hands are wetter than a Karen who's spotted an underpaid cashier.
tldr: My new main controller for Chiv 2, linux users will have to use a windows VM (or the usual black-magic if you're a power-user-wizard, unlike me) for the best experience with the GearLink browser-software ASUS has shifted to for customization, absolutely loaded with nice-to-have QOL features, also plastered with ROG all over everything. Wish it had gyro-aim.
I primarily play Chivalry 2 on controller (despite the game's absolutely attrocious ghost-binds that are immutable, I primarily use steam-input for my rebinds as a result) as well as sims/arcade-sims like IL2, BeamNG drive, and Forza Horizon 5. I do also sometimes play FPS games such as The Finals on controller instead of M+K, depending on my mood and if I have any wrist-cramps.
Sticks: comes with 4 hot-swappable TMR modules, 2 grey standard stiffness modules, 2 white low stiffness modules. Also comes with 2 standard Xbox style sticks, 1 domed stick, 1 extra long concave stick.
Rubber is slightly harder than what's on the SC, and significantly harder than the soft-gummy rubber on the XC. Has a nice chalky texture, finer than the texture on the SC and much more defined. Really grips onto your skin regardless of your sweat, easily the best rubber coating I've ever used. If the Raikiri is a 10/10 in terms of rubber, the SC is an 8/10 and the XC is a 0/10.
Stick tension for the grey modules feels about the same as the SC (slightly less than the XC), tension on the white modules is nice and soft making them my personal favourite.
Stick clicks are the softest of the 3, making stick-click actions nice and consistent (compared to the XC where clicking the stick is almost guaranteed to cause unwanted stick movement). They also have the least pre-travel and most post-travel, with a softer tactile feedback instead of a sharp clicky feedback. Objectively they're the best stick clicks out of the 3 due to having the least pre-travel, but if they had the same sharp clicky feedback that the SC has the Raikiri would easily have 10/10 stick clicks. Better than the SC as I do find myself mistaking the pre-travel for a click sometimes on that controller, but I imagine the Raikiri stick clicks could be just a bit better. I'd rank the 3 controllers with the Raikiri at 9/10, SC in an 8/10, XC is a 0/10.
Tracking accuracy is immaculate (to be expected from TMR) and although I definitely don't have Jynxi-level controller aim, these are noticeably more consistent than the XC sticks. However I can't tell if that's due to the better rubber, softer springs, the TMR sensors themselves, or any combo of the three. Either way, never having to worry about stick drift is a massive relief in a world where the PS5 controller exists.
Triggers, bumpers, and rear buttons: has 2 triggers and 4 bumpers, with selectable trigger stops for the triggers, and 4 magnetically removable rear buttons like the XC.
Triggers have the same analog travel as the XC, unlike the SC which has half the analog travel. The trigger stops, unlike the XC (which just limits the maximum travel of the triggers), convert the triggers into crispy mouse-like micro-switches with very little pre-travel (right trigger on my model has about 1mm of pre-travel, and left trigger has about ~0.5mm pre-travel). Absolutely amazing feature, and since I primarily use them in micro-switch mode it's pretty obvious that I think these are the best triggers I've ever used.
The 4 bumpers are all on micro-switches with almost zero pre-travel, hell yeah.
The 4 magnetically removable rear buttons are also all on micro-switches (slightly more pre-travel than the bumpers), another hell yeah.
For obvious reasons, the Raikiri is a 10/10, and the other two are either a 5/10 or a 7/10 depending on your use case (SC has better switches, but less back buttons and analog trigger travel than the XC).
Dpad and main buttons:
Microswitches for both the Dpad and main buttons, a third hell yeah.
Humongously better Dpad than what's on the XC, a slight upgrade to what's on the PowerA wireless switch controller. SC doesn't have a Dpad (just a Dpad-adjacent touch-pad) so no comparison there. I only use the Dpad for side-scroling platformers like RainWorld, so I probably don't have the same tastes and opinions as a Smash-Bros pro, but with practice this is the first Dpad I could actually speed-pole-climb with (I'm still more familiar and comfortable with keyboard, however I could see that changing if I put in some time getting used to using a Dpad instead).
Menu, and function buttons:
These all feel like those non-clicky tactile buttons you'd find under the scroll wheel of your mouse, I mean you don't really need anything fancy for these buttons and I don't really have any strong oppinions about these buttons, but at least they don't feel cheep.
Charging base: Included.
Charging base uses 3 pogo-pins, and some rubber bumpers to help you with allignment. Controller doesn't always feel like it's slotted in correctly however when docking it, and since it takes a few secs for the screen to show you the charge-level, I did find myself re-docking the controller 5 pico-seconds before the screen told me it was indeed docked correctly (I blame YT shorts for ruining my attention span). At least it doesn't use Alkaline batteries.
Battery-life:
Battery life is awesome, I've only used it in 8K polling mode however even after not charging charging it, it still only went down to 60% after 2 days of my regular use. I did get it from 100% to 80% when I had a 7 hour chiv 2 marathon however, which is probably the most accurate metric for an estimated battery-life measurement I've gotten so far.
QOL features are absolutely everywhere:
The controller has an internal storage bay for the dongle, plus the charging base is a USB-C to USB-A hub for you to connect your dongle to (so the controller only ever takes up a single USB port).
The rear buttons also have magnetic covers so you don't have the displeasure of raw-dogging the exposed buttons when you remove the back-buttons (unlike the XC).
The front cover is magnetic, so pulling it off to swap sticks and modules is easy and tool-less.
Comes with a stick-module puller (the metal gamer-tagged mini-salad-tongs) so you can hot-swap the modules.
Built-in menu-screen allows you to recalibrate the sticks, triggers, rebind most buttons to other X-input switches, change which flavour of unicorn-vomit you would like, customize the vibration settings, swap between the 5 on-board profiles, factory reset (obviously), change the screen's background GIF, and tweak your turbo-settings (for the few games that applies to, given macros aren't against the TOS of course).
Case can stow absolutely all of the accessories (the charge-base lift-kit legs are a little loose up in the mesh pocket however).
Case has a silicone plug for you to plug in your charging base, so you can charge your controller while it's inside of the case (for the few but precious times that's actually usefull).
USB-A to C cable, in the year 2026 I'm just glad it isn't an optional accessory.
GearLink connectivity:
I did have to use a windows VM to use GearLink (it shoes up all find on Linux, however it can't sync the profiles, either I'm missing some hidraw permissions setup to get it working, or it isn't quite ready for Linux yet).
You can upload your own GIF to use as your background image.
Windows users can install a companion service to make the screen display the date+time, HWID info, etc.... Linux users (as per usual) will have to consult the dark mages to create a companion service whenever they feel like doing it (or procrastinate on doing it themselves until said dark mage does it anyways). Though I don't see much use in Noctalia changing my Raikiri display and unicorn-vomit to match my wallpaper for any reason other than "a e s t h e t i c".
You can rebind the rear buttons and additional bumpers to mouse buttons (tried binding them to keyboard buttons, however I think my VM uses the wrong keycodes cause those binds only worked in the VM, and I'm too lazy to figure out why when the mouse button rebinds work just fine).
Plus a ton of more advanced unicorn-vomit settings, polling rate settings (8k by default), low-power-mode settings, and all the other regular features you'd expect from GearLink.
Gimmicks:
Bluetooth.
Lift-kit for the charge-base, I mean I still use it cause why not, but defo a gimmick.
Flaws:
Linux compatibility could 100% be better, the ROG Harpe 2 Ace has seamless GearLink connectivity with Linux, would be nice if this controller had that same level of compatibility (and certainly hope it gains that compatibility in the future).
Wish it had gyro-aim (the SC has shown me a way of using a controller and I can never go back to ignorant non-gyro ways).
Labelling on the rear buttons and additional bumpers is a little hard to read, only relavent when rebinding your buttons in moody lighting, but could be better.
Screen is liable to get covered in fingerprints due to how close it is to the start, menu, and X buttons.
Bongo-cat is not one of the default background GIFs included on the internal memory (nor does there appear to be a feature that would make said bongo-cat GIF only bongo when you press a button on the controller). Which some may consider to be a severe oversight by ASUS.
My personal use case: Absolutely love it, overall the best controller I have.
Having all 6 attacks (both standard and alt) bound to the 4 bumpers and 2 triggers makes feints, accels, drags, counter-feints, and alt-counters, feel absolutely amazing and intuitive in Chiv 2. Add in the 4 rear buttons, as well as stick clicks that are actually usable, and I can immediately play better than I ever have on mouse + keyboard (or my other 2 controllers). Can't imagine using anything else to play Chiv 2 from now on.
Although I still use the Steam Controller in IL2 since you can be cheeky with the touch pads to keep the stick in the last position you left it, giving you a crude and lazy way to trim out planes that otherwise don't have trim settings. As well as any casual games where the Steam Controller gyro-aim is better than stick aim, but you wouldn't get any benefit from using a mouse with lower latency. In any other game the Raikiri has now officially replaced my Steam Controller and has easily become my go-to controller.
Especially thanks to that hard rubber coating on the sticks, first time my thumbs which have been cursed with hiper-hydrosis didn't slip off the sticks. Although the Steam Controller stick has a decent coating, I still slipped and slid around it a little. ASUS nailied the rubber on the sticks, that texture and compound is the best I've ever used ngl.
Flydigi have registered an 'Apex 6 Pro' controller with the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) in the US. This is separate from the 'Apex 6' (non-Pro) that was registered around four weeks earlier.
tl;dr:- The Pro version of the Apex 6 appears to use linear drive rumble motors in the palm grips, which could enable DualSense- or Switch-style haptics. However, the adaptive trigger mechanisms are removed compared to previous Apex models (just like the non-Pro Apex 6).
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The Apex 6 Pro seems very similar to the regular Apex 6 (information in this post). That is also very similar to the Apex 5, so I'm not repeating all the details, just highlighting differences:
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The precise rumble motor technology and specifications are not obvious from the pictures, but the 'barrel' form factor is similar to the DualSense's voice coils or GuliKit's Maglev motors. This could address a disappointing omission in the regular Apex 6. However, software/firmware support and acoustic tuning (how the vibrations interact with the rest of the controller design) will be just as important to get a good result.
Flydigi have some experience in translating/emulating DualSense effects through the Space Station software, but for the adaptive triggers rather than haptics. Therefore, this might require some work to rebuild game support. The rest of the controller design doesn't appear to have been adjusted to account for the different motors, so the acoustic effects might not be great.
I previously guessed that Flydigi might try to implement Xbox-style 'impulse triggers', but now think this is unlikely. Trying to knock-off a Microsoft technology in a non-licensed controller could cause problems for Flydigi's licensed controller arrangements (Vader 5S and any others in future). It might make more sense for any trigger vibration in the Apex 6 to be used to complement or just mirror the grip haptics.
I think this is the first time that Flydigi have had separate Pro/non-Pro versions of an Apex model, although they used that segmentation with some Vader models in the past. It's also not clear why they would do this: is there enough demand for the two different variants, or will one variant be reserved for special editions/collabs?
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You can look up the details and documents yourself and might spot other differences, or have better interpretations of what you see.
| Model | Flydigi Apex 6 | Flydigi Apex 6 Pro |
|---|---|---|
| FCC ID (Federal Communications Commission) | 2AORE-K6 | 2AORE-K6P |
| CMIIT ID (China Ministry of Industry and Information Technology) | 25J313R3K601 | 25J313R3K602 |
I'm not sure how this even happened. I was playing with a friend and felt/saw my character moving unnaturally and realized it broke down the middle.
Can this be fixed or I just need to get a replacement?
