A loader bumped into my dump truck while loading and bent the aluminom and now when i am low on air there is very little clearance anyone got any good recommendations on how to fix i feel like hammering it wont do much cause its so thick
Hi I have a Hyundai Santa Fe GLS V6 2006
I need somebody to help me with work
I did the rack and pinion assembly kit the flush in the alignment now they're telling me that I need to check the power steering pump it could just be a hose or clip or something but most likely might be need to be replaced and need struts, eventually breaks
Someone who orders from a place like this doesn't do markup and will guarantee their work I prefer somebody who is ASE certified
I've never been on Reddit before
720-692-0777 text me here if you don't hear back.
Thank you
2010 Prius 370k miles.
Changed the spark plugs the coils packs. Cleaned the egr valve. Accidentally ripped out the wires from the pig tail if the MAP. Sliced in used pigtail from junkyard. Car starts engine picks up rpms. Can shift into park for moment. Then dies and says check hybrid system. After seconds start it stays dead. I had to jump my battery because it died while working on the car. My neighbor left the car in on mode while he was checking the codes.
Do you guys think my 12v battery is dead?
Or could I have damaged the egr valve sensor?
Just as the title says, I’ve tried to look into doing this myself and I’m wondering if it’s worth the money to have some professionals do it right or if this is where I could potentially save myself a few hundred. Are spark plugs difficult to DIY or is it pretty manageable / has margin for error incase you don’t tighten it perfectly?
I’ve seen folks explain the need for torque wrenches which I’m not familiar with, likewise I’m not sure where’s the best place to buy Iridium spark plugs / if there’s better Iridium ones than others. Really just looking for general advice or tips / tricks, tools that I absolutely need, etc. before I go in to attempt doing this on my own.
Thank you all in advance, I appreciate it!
The tyre belongs to 2009 Toyota corolla Altis 1.8J (195/65 R15 91H). I have removed the tyre. What to do with the rope plugs ends inside the tyres, shall I burn off those ends? Will they cause trouble in wheel balancing?
Update :- I have patches it using the mushroom patches it was very expensive but I did it anyway.
Feeling distraught, trying to change my back breaks and I have really been struggling with this caliper slide pin bolt. At first I thought the bolt was stuck in the threads and rounded it but now it seems like it’s spinning in the threads smoothly but is stuck in the bracket. Been shoving some permatex penetrating but doesn’t seem to be helping. I’m 22 and about to give up and get it to a mechanic, would really appreciate some advice!
2011 Nissan Altima, I have a video where you can see the bracket and bolt move as one while the actual caliper stays still.
I have a 2006 lexus GS 300. There is a fuel line bolt that goes in here, my noobie self accidently lost the bolt in the engine. Does anyone know what the name and size of the bolt is? Or have a diagram of a 2006 lexus gs300 engine diagram.
I have a 2016 Ford Escape Titanium, I have this part in my engine bay that broke when I was changing the battery. I’ve looked online and haven’t had any luck deciphering what it is. Any help would be wonderful thank you!
How can I free parking cable out of the way I there's a pinch were the hose ends but im more concerned on getting out the ball looking end, and will I be able to pull it the cable back to its place once I'm done?
2017 Kian Forte
This thing flew off while driving. I assume antenna cover? The little plastic parts look broken it won’t connect back.
What is this and anyway I can fix it really cheap so it will stay on? I don’t even know what part to look up
Hello - 2021 Toyota Tacoma SR5 V6
Yes I f**ked up and am looking to fix it immediately. Went to do an oil change and the plastic oil filter cap was completely stuck, since then I upgraded to the aluminum housing. The plastic piece was stuck so bad I cut and chipped it off. During this process, I damaged the actual bracket where the oil housing screws in to. I now have an oil leak - a small bead appears right where the 2 faces meet and continues to drip. I’ve sanded the burrs, no luck. I haven’t found any videos or guides online for this, so looking for some help. How DIY friendly or take to a shop? Thanks
TLDR: Damaged Oil filter bracket, need advice replacing.
Changing my fuel filter on car and the screw is threaded (it just spins and remains same height). I'll attach a picture...theres a nut on the bottom that is permanently in place, probably welded to the fuel filter housing itself so when the screw turns the nut remains solid. I've read ways to rectify such as putting a screw driver underneath and prying it out while I unscrew but it's very right so screwdriver can't get under. I've also heard ppl mention get a screw extractor set but would this work as the bolt spins effortlessly, it just doesn't catch. Also it's a diesel car so the fuel filter has a lot of Diesel in it... thought would mention this with any drilling/grinding suggestions with sparks etc.
Any help/advice would be appreciated as I've tried lots of reddit/YouTube and no joy as hard to find this type of set up.
P.s there's 6 of these bolts keeping the lid of fuel filter housing on so I've definitely overtightened them in the past as I've changed the filter before during a service, lesson learned.
So I just bought all 4 oxygen sensors for my 2014 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo at the dealership. Expensive asf. So the dude at the dealership told me that the ones with the part number 5149171 are for the bottom and the 5149180 are for the top. So I’m changing them and I do the top passenger side first no problem. Then I get to the bottom passenger side and the connector doesn’t connect. So not sure why they aren’t fitting if they are from the dealer. But the ones that are for the top look like the connectors would fit for it so now I don’t know if I should just put in whichever one fits. Maybe someone can help clarify which one goes on the bottom. The connects on the car are white and the ones on the sensors (9171) are black. Not sure what to do.
Hello all,
So I got a 2000 2.2L Sonoma with code P0200, and cylinder #4 fuel injector flooding the cylinder. Troubleshooting and process of elimination has narrowed it down to the injector driver inside the ECU/PCM being always 'on', meaning there is always a 'circuit to ground', thus the injector is always spraying fuel. This seems to be a known issue with this vintage of vehicle, even if not common. I'll use "ECU" below but mean ECU/PCM since I understand the one hardware module is essentially both. It seems I have two options.
#1 - Replace the ECU.
#2 - Open up the existing ECU and replace the injector driver.
Hoping you folks can provide comments for both.
For option #1 it seems I need to find a new or used ECU, have its VIN reprogrammed. However I understand it doesn't end there, and that you need to initiate some sort of modules resyncing, meaning the ECU and other modules need to be resynced, or rekeyed, or something.
So my first set of questions for #1 are like this: what do I need to do, and what equipment do I need to do it? Also, is there a company in Canada or USA that does at least some of this, and helps make the whole process much easier? If yes please provide info.
For option #2 I am unable to find info that easily identifies which component on the ECU circuit board contains the injector driver. My quick math tells me the current through an injector is in the range of 1 amp, versus say low milliamps, so that suggests to me the component providing the injector driver circuitry is a larger external package MOSFET (typically has a metal side for heat sinking), versus an Integrated Circuit (IC) type chip. But I really don't know. I'm trying to follow the printed circuit board (PCB) traces, from pins #75 & #76, but with all the stuff on the PCB, and itty bitty traces, I haven't been successful so far. I am assuming it will be a component that I can desolder, remove, replace, and resolder, but that is yet to be seen.
So my first set of questions for #2 are like this: has any of you done this before? What component contains the injector driver? Is it an IC, or is it a larger external package MOSFET? Anyone have any pictures? Is there a company that does this and I can simply mail them the ECU and they send it back?
With the various engine swaps going on, I am guessing #1 may actually be the easier way forward, even if it sort of have more steps, and more $$$ involved.
Please help. I should add this is a project truck that my son and I, and a dear uncle of his, are working on. It would be sweet to see that P0200 code clear and have a nice smooth running engine assuming no other issues with it of course haha!
I'd also like to understand what causes the injector driver circuit to get like this. It's MOSFET based I understand, so it's likely blown, thus now a short circuit. What can cause this to happen? I am wondering if I should replace the injectors for piece of mind. However, they all measure the same resistance, and the wiring harness measures fine too, i.e. no shorts. I'd like to be sure I have fixed any possible 'external' issues before replacing the whole ECU or a MOSFET.
Hoping the Sonoma community, and perhaps even the larger GM (Chevy/GMC) community can help. Thanks everyone!
How f***ed am I? What do I do? Broke a stud when trying to swap to ARP studs… do I just call a mechanic at this point? I don’t have a welder and I don’t trust myself with a drill.
It was originally a 19 mm lug nut. I smacked on a 18 mm pulled off smacked on a 17 mm pulled off. Then I try to get a bolt extraction in the middle, ripped it. Wasn't sure what lug nut extraction kit to buy hoping someone of more experience can help
Qualcuno sa come posso ripararlo?
Sostituirlo per sta cacata mi costa 100 euro
I had a Tranny case brought to me for repair. It was off of some 4WD pickup. The owner pulled the engine to do some work and noticed that the bell housing had a crack going all the way around.
The bell housing was heavier aluminum casting which required that after cleaning it real good, grinding a groove deep into the crack for penetration. Once welding on one side the opposite side was welded fusing the two welds together for a full penetration weld.
After cleaning it and tacking the parts together all across the crack I started to weld it out in small sections of no more than two inches. In addition I alternated sides so that if I ran a bead on the right side, I would run a bead on the left side. This helped distribute the heat rather than let it build up in one spot as it followed the progression of the bead.
The case was real dirty and greasy and it took me an hour to get it down to bare metal. I wire brushed it with a stainless wire wheel mounted on my angle grinder.
On the face of the case where it bolts to the engine I used a flat file to file off the excess metal where I had built up the bead when sealing the crack at that point. The repair came out well.