r/KiaNiroEV

Hi, my leased Kia Niro EV 4 was stolen 2 nights ago, I’ve reported it to all the appropriate channels, but would love to know if the tracking feature can be used in any way still?

The thieves removed the vehicle from my Kia connect app at the time it was taken so I cannot personally see any data now. Utterly gutted, it was such a great lease deal, perfect for my families needs right now, and the first nice thing I’ve been able to afford for us after a difficult few years financially, I know I won’t get anywhere near so much car for the money again going forward :(

Just bought a 2024 Wind with the "Midwestern winter" package (heat pump, etc). Only 1000 miles on it!

What is the first thing you would do or buy for your Niro?

I had Car Toys installed a 1000w inverter for me with a 6 foot positive running through the firewall, and the negative installed on a lug under a passenger seat floor. At the same day, I bought an AGM battery, and replaced the 12v battery.

So I tried testing the utility mode with AC on (68° with fan on 2) outside a Safeway parking lot, and I've notice the inverter reading was 12.2 and then about 13-15 minutes later it dropped to 12.1, and I just ignore it. Now another 13-15 minutes later it dropped to 12.0.

Anyways I've been keeping my eye on it for almost an hour and it now droped to 11.6. Should I be worried, or is there a drain happening? This is a brand new AGM battery.

By the way "nothing" is plugged in on the inverter (Uyuan Pure Sine Wave Inverter)

Should I just turn off utility mode and be on ready mode?

Anyways I turned off AC for now, if this drops to 11.4v I'm going back to O'Reilly

Question , when using Android Auto in a Kia Niro EV (2023) I tried to open the ABRP app but the message came up 'this is an android auto premium feature. Now as far as I know there isn't an android auto paid for premium fee for any car, so is it just a wait for a possible update that enables the feature or not as I suspect?

About halfway to Tulsa from the SF Bay Area. Today Im in northern New Mexico and today while driving in a fierce crosswind I suddenly heard a loud scratchy noise that almost sounded like radio static with the volume up all the way. I slowed down and it turned into more of a sound like something was loose behind the dashboard or the AM radio was receiving static. Radio and ventilation was off.

Has anybody heard something like this? The only other time I’ve heard a similar noise was in another vehicle and one of the doors was not shut completely, but it still wasn’t as loud as today’s noise.

If it recurs, I’ll try to make a video and repost.

By the way, the trip is going fine and I plan to post a detailed report later. It’s taking about 25% more time versus a gas car. I haven’t done crunching the numbers yet, but at 75 mph on a flat stretch of road (hard to find in the West) I seem to get somewhere around 3.6 to 3.8 miles per kilowatt hour. But it’s been very windy, like up to 60 mph windy. Luckily only cross winds and tail winds.

I’m looking to see if there are placement holes behind the front and back KIA logo. I have an alternate badge ready and will probably try this next week but want to know if others have done this.

I’ve just bought a Niro EV 2024 Wind+ to replace a 2017 Nissan Leaf. We’re in Ottawa, Ontario and have always used level1 charging from a regular exterior outlet and managed to gain enough charge over night to cover our driving needs during the day. We were looking forward to the greater range afforded by the Niro, but I’m reading some posts that say that this wont work for the Niro EV at colder temps, that due to the battery warmer / heat pump, the draw required at -20 to -30 celsius will exceed what’s needed, and that we’ll lose battery capacity over night. If true, we’ll have to get a level 2 charger, which is logistically challenging with our house setup and electricity panel location vis a vis garage/ driveway. I would love to hear from any of you who trickle charge with the Wind+ (battery warmer, heat pump) package in cold climates, have you been able to make it work?

The prices are in CAD!
I own a 2021 Kona EV Preferred that I bought used in August 2025. After driving a lot, I’m now close to 200,000 km on the odometer. After calling four different garages to replace the front wheel bearings, the following information works for 2018–2023 Hyundai Kona EV and the Kia Niro EV from the same years, I realized just how exaggerated the price of the original parts is, especially since I’m a student and this is my first car. The OEM bearing costs around $590, and on top of that, it’s almost impossible to find compatible aftermarket parts, and if you do they are still really expensive. Eventually, I discovered that the EHY010 bearing from Edge works perfectly with these models. You can get it for $103.35 before tax from PartsAvatar with a 12‑month warranty, or for $160.95 taxes included from Alxmic Performance with a two‑year warranty (Alxmic ships fast if you’re in Quebec). You can also probably find the part elsewhere. Many garages refuse to install parts purchased by the customer, but one garage told me they could do it for 180-200$, I assume before tax (if you’re in Quebec, it’s Expert VE), I recommend to call before hand to find a place that accepts it. In the end, I paid $260.95 total (since I knew someone who could install it for $100) instead of $950.50 taxes included per bearing at a garage.

I have a 23 Wave that’s relatively new to me (end of December). I had it into the shop for a diagnostic test a ml th ago and as part of that, they updated the software.
Since then, there’s been a “maintenance required in X days” when I start the car. It goes away within about 5 seconds. It’s now showing -2 days. No impact on driving.

How can I reset that? I’ve looked on the app, but the maintenance there shows wildly different results (next service in 3266 days). Ideas?

I’m considering permanently removing the dust cap from the AC charging port on my EV, mainly because it’s a bit annoying to remove every single time I charge at home.

I noticed that some newer EVs, like the Kia EV3, don’t seem to have a separate dust cap on the AC pins at all, which made me wonder how necessary it actually is.

Does the dust cap mainly protect against dust/debris, or does it also serve an important moisture/water protection function?

I mostly AC charge at home and I don’t get the impression that much dust gets into the port anyway. Has anyone here removed it permanently? Any long-term downsides or risks?

I have a 2023 Wave. When it was at the dealer a month ago, they tested the battery and showed that it’s ready to be replaced.
I’ll do that, but have a general question about jump starting these cars on the event of a dead 12V system. Do you all carry a jump pack (battery) or just jumper cables? If a jump pack, are there any which are small enough to fit into the frunk?

Hello there - I just got a 2021 eNiro and managed to drive it for 2 kilometers and loved it! But this is where the good part ends.

Here we are with my dad and uncle prodding around, studying the car's functions, infotainment and what not. The car had been parked for maybe 20 minutes max.

Idiotically, my dad starts insisting that he clean the Aircon with those moronic spray foam things which you shove right into the air vents. As he is doing that, the car suddenly starts going absolutely bananas: all kinds of errors and warnings - parking sensors, distronic, blindspot monitoring, the automatic locks start going off and on, all kinds of beeping. Battery percentage went null and the car refused to select any gear, ebrake was not operating either.

I immediately went to check the voltage of the 12V. Ironically it was way too low - like 10.3. We brought in an ICE car and hooked it up with jump leads and let it run for a while.

The car seemed to improve a little after the 12V battery went up a bit. It even started and ran (managed to test it in a yard at low speed) However, SoC is still null, warnings everywhere and locks behave erratically - had to lock it with the manual key.

I also checked the internal fuse panel and there was moisture around it and over it

So here we are - I said "don't do that" but nobody ever listens to me. I am so upset.

Do you guys think that this is a seriously messed up electrical issue (harnesses l, cables corroded, modules burned etc). Or is it maybe a faulty 12V that caused the car to freak out coincidentally as he was filling up the vents? I sure wish it was the second scenario but I have a bad feeling that this is a lot more serious issue. Anyone can relate?

So I test drove a Niro and loved it. It had comfy seats, good viability and noise levels were decent so I bought it. I asked them to charge it while we did paperwork because it was at 47% and like two hours later...... it wouldn't start. So they loaned me the Dodge Challenger I just traded in and will call me when they figure out the issue. Little concerned about the fact it didn't make it out of the parking lot but I guess I'll see what they say lol.

2025 Niro EV here.

I've tried 3 different mounting solutions and nothing seems to work for me.

I prefer not to have the holder mount to the windshield - taking visual space and adding risk to urban driving.

I have found a solution that mounts to the screen area between the displays. I live in Florida and I believe the heat causes the adhesive chemical to fail. My solution only lasted about 3 weeks.

I researched chemical bonding solutions like JB Weld. I tried 2 different, similar products. One lasted about a day before failing. The other less than 15 minutes.

I have tried 3 solutions to clip to the AC vent, but nothing fits.

Does anyone have advice or recommendations for a phone holder or epoxy that works in Florida heat? I drive Lyft part time and must use a phone mount per their rules. I can't have my phone dropping during rides. 😅