




New 30x60!
After delay after delay after fire and more delays building showed up Monday and it is finally a bit more than an expensive slab of concrete, haha





After delay after delay after fire and more delays building showed up Monday and it is finally a bit more than an expensive slab of concrete, haha
I've been developing a replacement NF20-style nozzle for Gema powder guns and I'm finally at the point where I'd like to get some real-world testing outside of my own shop.
The goal isn't to abuse them or intentionally try to break them. I'm looking for people who can use them during normal production and help me track how they perform over time.
I'll be sending selected testers a few physical nozzles free of charge. In return, I'm asking testers to fill out a short Google Form periodically so I can keep track of things like:
I've already been testing these in production myself, but I really want feedback from different shops, different workloads, and different environments so I can get a better idea of how consistent they are.
The feedback form is intentionally quick and simple. I'm not looking for essays — just enough information to help me compare results between testers and see where improvements may still be needed.
DISCLAIMER:
These nozzles are designed specifically for compatible Gema powder guns. If the nozzle does not fit your equipment, please do not request modifications or ask for the design/STL file. This beta test is for the physical nozzles in their current design only.
I'm only looking for a small group of testers for this round, so preference will go to people who can actually put them into regular use and keep up with the feedback form.
This is for physical nozzle testing only. The STL/design file is not being distributed.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that in the photos it's printed with PLA-CF just as a sample part, I am placing an order tomorrow for a different type of filament to increase strength in the part itself.
Why are our powdercoats peeling/chipping?
Especially in high impact/friction areas like the armrests of chairs or the door railings.
Before we deliver them we hit them with thick metal to test their durability. They look fine when we deliver them to clients. But after a short period of time clients will report this problem.
What are the possible causes?
What remedies/solutions can we do?
........ 😩
I've just had my subframes and parts of my car blasted. They will be powdercoated with a zinc primer also.
I have the option to Iron Phosphate wash the parts. Should i do it? The powder guys say it won't do anything because of the zinc primer on freshly blasted metal but i'm sceptical. (assume the phosphate wash is free).
Thanks all!
I powder coated these wheels in black with Illusion Purple. However, as you can see, there is still a silver color showing through at the transition between the black and the Illusion Purple. What did I do wrong?
This is the process I followed:
The wheels were completely stripped, blasted, and outgassed. I then applied a layer of black powder and cured it to approximately 75%. After that, I applied the Illusion Purple and gave it a partial cure. I then applied clear coat over half of the wheel where the Illusion Purple is, followed by clear coat over the other half of the wheel where the glitter is located. Everything is fully covered and properly encapsulated in the clear coat. That is not the issue — the problem is specifically the silver color coming through at the transition.
I have done a similar process before, but instead of an Illusion color, I used two standard powder coat colors, and that worked perfectly.
So, what am I doing wrong when using an Illusion color? Is there a different process or technique that should be used for creating a fade from a standard black powder coat into an Illusion color?
Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance for your replies!
Best regards,
Luuk
I'm still on a cheap AliExpress gun, and i want up my game a bit.
I mostly do my own stuff and some for friends, i have a collection of cars all restored by myself.
i own a small galvanic and e-coat (KTL) system in a 20` conex box. including phosphat and passivation basins before the cathodic dip painting. of course i got an oven with this setup to burn the e-coat in :-) so powder coating was just get a gun and shoot it, and paint stripping was just modding the oven to higher temperature limitations.... no big prep work with e-coated parts...
so, what would you suggest?
i want a gun with a screw-on powder cup, similar to a traditional paint gun, as i do only small parts and low quantities so i actually could store my powders in a shelf within the cups...
recommendations welcome
I got this valve cover powder coated for my Miata. Looks like there’s powder coating in the oil cap threads, the mating surfaces, and other misc. holes. Should I ask for my money back? Or is this just part of the process. How should I go about fixing some of these problems? (I attached a picture of the valve cover before paint for reference)
Does it matter if you bake the wheels vertical or horizontal?
I've had a few sets of wheels refurbished over the years by different well reviewed companies, I haven't been too happy with the results with any of them.
In my mind, the wheels should look brand new, with no imperfections at all, and the coating should last at least 3 years. Is that unrealistic?
A friend recently told me that most wheel refurbishers don't do "real" powder coating, they only do "hot flocking". I don't know what that means.
I just need to get a set of wheels refurbished because the coating from 2 years ago is flaking off so I'm trying not to rely on reviews alone, as I think they can be faked. I want to know the technicality behind it more and what questions to ask.
I'm in the UK.
I genuinely have no clue what happened. But I put it in a paint stripper and imma drill a hole in the middle to hang it from then try again later. I still want to know what happened so I can prevent this happening again
I’ve never seen this before… anyone know what could have happened? Sandtex black, rest of the rack is perfect as shown in second picture.
I’m gonna sandblast and try again but just wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else!
I live in upstate NY and had a gentleman ask me to powder coat a set of 18” wheels gloss black for his civic.
Quoted him $1025 for tire removal, sandblast, powder coat, tire mount, and balance. I feel like it seems fair for everything but I’ve gotten some pushback from a few people on the price. Thoughts?
Hi guys, wanting to know where to start on this. It’s on a powder coated steel bull bar. How do I restore it/ prevent from getting worse without recoating the whole bar.
Very limited experience with this stuff.
Hello, everyone. I'd like to refresh an old bicycle frame that has a combination of Alloy for the main part and a carbon fibre rear seatstay that's joined via a lug with the rest of the frame.
My main concern is whether the oven temperatures used for curing the powdercoat would affect the carbon fibre (the epoxy and the glue).
This would be done by a specialist, but I figured I'd try to find out whether it's possible before bothering to reach out.
Thanks in advance.
Customer wants this powder coated with a primer and top coat.
Where would yall be at price wise for blasting,prep, primer and top coat?
The image is the neighborhood's play structure.
The 90s pink seems to be powder coating.
The gray bars too.
Question
How would we prep the pink for painting ? The bars is a lot of painful surface area so I'd like to pitch to the group painting the pink?
Is it like a car - remove loose, scuff and shoot - possible rattle can ? Maybe rattle can clear coat ?
Thanks
Been debating what size batch oven to move up to. I’m torn between 10x10x8, 10x10x16, and 10x10x24.
8 foot is for rims, bumpers, furniture, etc.
16 foot is for chassis, manufactures, some fences, gates, etc.
24 foot is for the structural, handrails, steel beams, light poles, you know.
But at what point is the juice just not worth the squeeze?
I’m curious to know your thoughts!
I can’t stand look of the chrome stick wheels, but have seen them powder coated and they look great…
How long does the finish last??