r/Woodworking_DIY

Hello,

I was wondering if anybody has experience with charring wood that has been primed with pore filler. I'm buying wood that has had the mentioned treatment done for a project, and I want to char it. Does anybody know if I can char the pore filled wood? Is it possible? Is it going to affect the end result in any way?

Thanks in advance,

JxB

P.S. It is Rengas wood

Looking for reliable and not expensive way to cut let’s say from 2m cylinder (d=6-7cm) exactly 20cm long pieces.

It should be cylinders between two plates, so I need exactly 90°

Shopsmith has been purchased out of Bankruptcy, and in this video I talk with Shopsmith's CEO to understand how they plan to be successful and avoid the mistakes of the past.

Not sure if there is a specific Reddit for woodworking problems, so please forgive if this is not the right forum for this question. Just point me in the right direction.
I’m making a computer desk out of quartersawn white oak in an Arts and Craft style. Before final assembly, I’ll be finishing most of the assembled components. Since I was hoping to replicate the fumed look of Stickley, I asked Google’s AI how to achieve that color.
I was instructed to first raise the grain by using distilled water. Tap water has too many iron molecules apparently and the iron will react with the tannin in the oak to stain the oak black.
Long story short, the distilled water reacted with the tannins and left a black speckled surface and AI is now saying yeah this happens often because of the iron in planing and surfacing the boards leaves tiny particles behind as the tool edge breaks down. I now have to wash all of the surfaces with oxalic acid and then neutralise that with baking soda afterwards, before washing with a damp sponge with clear distilled water before even beginning the process of finishing. I’m now concerned I’m being led astray and I will not get the finished I was hoping for.
The plan was to scuff the hand planed and scrapped surfaces with 180 grit sandpaper, raise the grain with distilled water, re-sand with 180 grit, apply a water-soluble dye mixed to certain formula, apply a sealer of amber shellac in a 1lb. cut, lightly sand with a used piece of 180 grit paper, fill the pores with an antique walnut gel stain, light sand again and then finish with 3 coats of blonde shellac in a 3 lb. cut with a final buff with paste wax and 0000 steel wool.
Is this a viable route to take to get what I want? For those of you who have tried to mimic that finish without using ammonia, what was your approach and how did it work out?

Edited for Additional info: This technique was what Google AI recommended. Wondering how correct this is and if there is another proven way to get that fumed oak look without using ammonia.

Bought an 8 foot Walnut Board from Rockler. 6 inches wide 1 3/4 inches thick. There was a U shaped defect I missed when I got the board to my shop an hour away. Basically rendered the board useless for my purposes. Rockler basically said it was on me to inspect the wood . Thoughts?

I have a couple of live-edge wooden shelves that are already sealed. I really like the rustic look, but they're a little more yellow/orange than I'd like. I'd prefer them to be a bit darker and more neutral without completely changing their character.

I live in an apartment, so doing a full strip, stain, and refinish would be pretty difficult. So far, people have suggested these options:

- Tinted furniture wax (dark oak or walnut)

- Gel stain after lightly scuff-sanding the existing finish, followed by a new clear coat

- A tinted toner or tinted topcoat

- Just having a furniture refinisher do it professionally

I'm curious what you all would recommend. Is one of these options clearly better than the others? Is there another approach I'm missing that would work on already sealed wood? I'd really appreciate any advice before I start experimenting.

I'll attach photos of the shelves in the comments.

I went through all the big DIY stores looking for a serious dividing door, but why is absolutely everything sold right now made only of pressed cardboard and MDF that sounds hollow as soon as you tap it with your finger?

I literally do not understand how we ended up in a situation where buying a normal solid wood door has become an impossible mission on the current market.

Edit: I am thinking of turning to RealCraft because they actually make solid wood doors with sturdy hardware.

But has anyone in this group tried to build a heavy door from scratch by themselves without having a professional workshop?