Just got a 74 super beetle 😝
the ignition switch was out so it was cheaper since it didn't start but the fix is only 8 bucks lol.
the ignition switch was out so it was cheaper since it didn't start but the fix is only 8 bucks lol.
I recently bought a mostly stock 1968 Beetle that I’d like to keep and enjoy with my family for the next 10+ years (for weekend rides and VW events). It’s in decent shape overall: mostly good paint, presentable interior, some bumper rust, a driver door latch that doesn’t always work from the outside, and a window leak when it rains. It sat for four years in a “beetle shed” after the owner passed. It had a basic tune up to get running before we got it. Chrome on bumper shows 3-4 dime to nickel rust spots; some dime sized missing pant spots; surface rust on exhaust
My priorities are:
For those who have sorted out an old Beetle, what would you prioritize first?
I’m thinking of reviewing/remediating any issues with brakes, tires, steering/suspension, fuel lines/fire risk, wiring/lights, seatbelts/seats (belts don’t retract well in front and missing in the back), door latch not working on drivers side; fixing a window-based water leak before doing cosmetics or fun upgrades. Am wondering about disc brakes (safety) and an upgraded shifter (at a minimum replacing the bushings)
Any thoughts on what I’m thinking? Anything I should also consider given our goals (safe, reliable and fun for our family for ten years)
I wasn't even aware that my Beetle was going to be featured in an article in Dune Buggies & Hot VW's beforehand; I was alerted to it by someone one one of the FB's VW page. When I actually found the article I was pretty floored! The photos that are in the article were pics of the car when I first got it & one of the original owner holding up a photo of the car when she got it. I never would have dreamed that my car would be in a global magazine! There will be a follow-up article once the Beetle is finally finished. The issue in question is the February 2023 issue; and the article is a two page spread in the "Grinding Gears" column by Randy Carlson. If you happen to have any of these you can part with; I would really appreciate it! Yes I did contact the mag; and bought what issues they had on hand. Thank you in advance for any help!
Hi all.
I've got a 67 bug with 2276 engine and need to fit a new smaller EMPI breather box to the firewall. I bought the EMPI one already so have it ready.
Previous owner fitted a massive stainless one bolted to front of fanshroud which works but is really cramped.
It has the original tarboard firewall though, anyone experienced who could advise how best to mount it? Would self tapping screws be enough or do I need to drill through to metal and fit rivnuts?
Alternatively I could reuse one of the holes in the fanshroud and mount it there. Just not happy they drilled 2 in the first place, I'll have to fill them with grommets.
Thanks.
1964 bug
Countless miles over 23 years of ownership, it has never left me stranded. Bought it when I was 16
I was wondering what its like to own a VW beetle on a daily or very frequent use cases , what breaks most often and what common mistakes do people make when owning this car for first time?
Question for you Bug head, there is a little wire on the left going from the small square nut and, from what I understood, supposed to be welded on the plate.
I have found that wire end lose when I control the points' gap. I read that if not connected l, the car won't start. Honestly the car runs fantastic when the wire was already loose (I guess) but i decided to snug it in the small spring for now, so at least it does ground.
My question, since I cannot weld, can I make a little wire with flat "O" connectors and connect one end between the distributor case and the nut, and the other end below the screw that holds the points plate down ?
Or can I leave it as is ? The car runs very good for info.
Thanks for your help !
I have posted over in r/dunebuggy because I purchased a 1971 Dune Buggy that ended up being more work than I thought due mostly to my own ignorance. I couldn't post more pictures over there but am kind of looking to gauge how big of an issue I have with the pan. I erroneously saw that the inside looked good and only glanced at the underside when purchasing. Of course when I got home I almost had a mini heart attack over some of what I found. Pictures underneath aren't the best...but kind of wondering how much needs to be completely replaced versus how much I can potentially triage myself with an angle grinder.
I was changing a bad wheel cylinder and planned to inspect and re-pack the front bearings that I installed about 1000 miles ago. The outside of the outer bearing is badly warped. The race looks fine though. What happened here? Overheating, weak Chinese alloy, or both? The red grease in this bearing had turned mostly brown, but was still red inside the hub and at the inner bearing.
Small VW Show. (●'◡'●) Some Cool Cars.
Looking at a beetle today and mechanically it felt great but has a few small easily repaired issues on the fenders, rear tail pan, and a little bubble in the roof that looks cosmetic. The area I am most concerned about is this spot inside of the drivers door where the heater channel meets the pillar. It is rusted through in a spot and there is another larger spot on the other side that is flaking (inner fender well). Is this major issue or fix or could a more cosmetic patch work for an occasional fun car? Doors open and close fine but don’t want to spend the money if I need to do cutting and welding or have a chance for the body sagging.
I don't know what it happened, but I had to create a new account