Car's a 2001 Clownshoe. Went to do the differential bushing, bought a RevShift upgrade. Cut the old OEM unit out and then it dawned on me the sleeve is part of the unit, which is still there. Do you think it's possible for a shop to press or cut out the sleeve without damaging the cover, or am I stuck shelling out $500 or so for a new one?

ETA: DUH! Just need to carefully saw through the sleeve and peel it out with a punch. So obvious! Thank you for the responses!

Posted a few weeks back about valuation on an 02 2.5i I was being offered, and then I bought it! $4,700 with a mint condition hard top, total steal for a solid running car with no rust and no CEL.

Been driving it a few weeks now and have noticed a few things I can’t seem to pin down with just google searches:

1. DSC light/brake light combo. I know this can be anything from sensors to the module solder joints, etc, but the way it manifest

s

1. is very specific. I start it up, no lights, drive for 30 min or so and then I get a weird quick vibration,

a quieter

1. version of what it sounds like when the ABS is activated. Like less than a second, and then the DSC light and brake light come on. No ABS light, no engine codes. I don’t have a BMW scanner to read the ABS module yet.
2. speed-specific shuddering: at about 25-35 mph with the worst happening around 30, I get a strong shudder in what feels like the entire car. It’s not a sharp vibration, but more like you are going over rapidly bumpy pavement. I have varied gear and RPM and it’s consistent with vehicle speed and not engine speed. Google says it’s likely driveshaft bearing but wondering if anyone else had a similar issue before I start randomly replacing driveline components.

Thanks in advance, this is my first Z3, one of the most fun-per-dollar cars I have ever owned.

Still in the eye. Ran out to get a photo. Got my 750i too.

I just picked up a '96 1.9 for $1500. The body and paint are in fantastic shape, it runs and shifts well, and it had a title. I'm over the moon with how much car I got for the money. It needs and alternator, and a lot of interior work. Rear window tore and it got rained in. Saggy glove box, interior door handles, and center stack plastic all need repair or replacement. But for the money, I couldn't pass it up as a father son project for my oldest son's first car. How do you guys think I did? I know I'll end up refreshing the cooling system, but it's all in good shape for now at least. But I have no idea if it's ever been touched, or if I have 30 year old plastic, so it'll all be replaced sooner or later.

2001, M54, stick, Siena Red Metallic over beige.

Looking at an M Roadster ‘98 with 52k. Are these spot welds alright or should I walk away?

1999 BMW Z3. At a Glance:

Rare Fiji Edition in Fiji Green with Picasso-Pattern Leather | Straight-Six Engine With Manual Gearbox | 8-Year Ownership

Hundreds more photos, videos, and details, here: 1999 BMW Z3 – Trade Classics

Auction ends 22nd October!

A wonderfully distinctive and rare example of BMW’s compact two-seat roadster, combining classic proportions, a characterful straight-six engine, and an unusually vibrant colour scheme and interior.

Introduced during the mid-1990s, the Z3 marked BMW’s return to the small, open sports-car market. Its long bonnet, low seating position, and short rear deck gave it the appearance of a traditional roadster, while rear-wheel drive and proven BMW mechanical components provided a suitably engaging driving experience.

This 1999 2.8 example is finished in the rare and striking Fiji Green, complemented by silver five-spoke alloy wheels and a black fabric hood. The unusual specification continues inside, where Picasso-patterned black leather is accompanied by contrasting green piping. We believe the Fiji Edition - one of BMW's curated "Spring and Autumn Collection" packages - to be exceptionally rare. It is reported to have come at a £7,500 premium to a standard Z3 when new.

Beneath the bonnet is one of BMW’s great naturally-aspirated straight-six engines, paired with a five-speed manual gearbox.

This listing was written from information supplied by Ashley after meeting Louise the owner, and having visited and photographed the vehicle.

I’ve tried to zip my eBay replacement window in for days and at this point I’m thinking the zippers don’t match. I feel like I’ve done everything on every forum and every Reddit thread. Lifting the top up a little and using two people and switching out the zipper slider and nothing is working. The last thing I need is to have water get in my beautiful 70k mile z3. The top is in good condition just not the window someone help me!

This was on the wall at Crystal JP, a car parts shop in Chiba-shi, Japan.

Necessity is the mother of invention.
Racing clubs require an engine kill switch that a corner marshal can trigger in case of emergency.

High end race cars and open wheel cars have fancy protected electronic kill switches. There is no single kit on the market that has all the parts required for a hone built car.

So the only path is Fabrication. Took me
A Month to find the part that I needed, a random piece of steel.

I’m using the holes left behind after removing the mirrors (see my previous build post).

This solution (that I had in my head for several months) is kind of unique.

I just need to use My cardboard template and build the little aluminum plate.

I will do another kill switch on the other side.

New universal racing mirrors will be relocated behind the base of the A pillar.

Once this is all wrapped, it will look and work like a fancy race car.

Just got this 2001 automatic z3 but haven't been able to locate the 20 pin round port under the hood. I also cant seem to find the coolent reservoir to pour coolent in. Need help 😅

It was all the way at the very bottom hard to see lol

Tried pushing the bushings out with the subframe in situ and replacing with 95A bushings. Had good results, just finishing up the clean up tomorrow and will take it for a spin. Hopefully it works.

I am getting close to parking my z3 for the winter. I have a 2.8l that I have been rebuilding on my spare time and my plan is to swap out my 2.5 this winter for it. For those who have done the swap, do you have any feedback, tips or information that could be helpful ahead of time?

I am also planning a clutch refresh while the engine is out. Anything else I am forgetting?

excuse my muscle spasms, Im still trying to locate the random intermittent rattle sound coming from my engine and Im slowly going insane.
(I just spend another 400€ for an oem DISA valve, being sure it was the last potential source of the noise. It was not -_- )

So now I replaced my (only one year old) belt tensioner and checked all other accessory pulleys while I was down there.

And while doing so I noticed: the power steering pump is suspiciously loud, when shaking it clock- and counterclockwise.

There is no play forward and back though…

could this be my problem?