r/crealityk1

Hi all. I need advices. My stock feeder gear is broken, this is the 2nd time it broken. So i think i need to change the extruder. Between this 2, which one should i choose? I only print abs, pla, petg, and cf-abs.

First time creality owner bought a used K1C a month ago. Very happy with the prints and quality so far, but now I have a broken stepper motor lead on my extruder. Tried soldering, but it's still not connecting. I'm going to replace it, but I'm noticing other issues, crispy or skinned wires. Is this normal, do I need to replace the whole assembly, I can't get the front cover to close.

I’ve had my K1 Max for about a year and half now. Absolutely loved it seeing as this was my first printer. I’ve mad probably 120 prints by now, ranging from various sizes and filaments. I’m only at 180 hrs opposed to the 300-500hr maintenance interval. I tried printing a car part using ABS last night. I watched it do the calibration which I do before every print and it started just fine. Made it probably 5% into the print before I walked away. Made some food, did laundry and by the time I got back to it, I found it like this. Would ANYONE have any explanation and or advice on what needs replacing? I’ve been through several threads and have not seen anything to this extreme of an extent. This was using Creality ABS

I’m printing with creality CR silk with cr silk settings in creality print. My prints look amazing except the very tip top layers never look as smooth as the rest of the print. Any tips to dial this in?

Retro glide v5 mod, just finished it.
Imma test it tomorrow.

So I installed the cfs on my k1 max months ago. I have never been able to solve the cutter error though. I’ve built up the height of the block with gaffa as a temporary test, the lever moves with my finger and not stuck or stiff.

Any suggestions? I tried to recalibrate I think in the settings but it won’t until filament is retracted which it won’t do because it tries to cut first! :(

Hey all.

My K1Max makes these dots while bed mesh calibrating before print.

Is this normal?

Have you used this lubricant on linear guides? Is it good, or is it not recommended?

I tried printing pc and ended up with a blob of death, ruining the fan shroud of my k1 max. Logically I needed to print the new one with pc out of spite. All in all it came out well, but getting my k1 Max to 50c chamber temp without a heater was an interesting challenge

What is the setting or configuration that reduces the Y axis size of the plate when using multiple colors? See the attached pictures - 1 color: I'm in bounds; 2 colors - I'm now out of bounds. No other changes...

I'm using a K1SE with Creality Print. There is space for the purge tower. I know I can rotate my object to fit the (for some reason) smaller Y axis.

But why does this happen and is there a way to stop it?

No Wonder it didnt Extrude anything... Also why tf is the Connector of the Motor to the PCB glued, wtf Edit: *had

i bought my k1 max used and took off the nozzle for the first time i’m wondering why it looks like this, it doesn’t look like the older type nozzle or the unicorn nozzle, the second picture are the nozzles he gave me with it, it looks like the replacement 0.4 is slightly used, the 0.6 nozzle is new but i’ve never used that size. if i use a different size nozzle will i have to go through the whole process of tuning again? and can i even use this kind? since that’s not the kind that was already in there, im not sure what to do…. also by the way my last couple of prints ive been getting clogs in the heat break, they’re really annoying to deal with and it seems like the last 3 times they’ve happened 10m into printing after clearing the previous jam, i’m also missing a heat sock so im not sure if that maybe caused it, but i haven’t ever had one and this printer has been running good for months until this past week

TLDR: i took the nozzle out of my used printer for the first time, it looks weird, and different to the spare unicorn nozzles the previous owner gave to me, so im not sure if i should continue using this one, or if i can use the unicorn nozzles, i’ve been getting clogs over and over in the heartbreak too, is it bc of this?

edit: the used 0.4 nozzle seems to be clogged up to the top, which is annoying, but im going to try to clear it before maybe using it

FINAL EDIT: i figured it out with the help of a commenter, my nozzle is just the microswiss flowtech upgrade nozzle, it came with the spare unicorn nozzles because that was the system on it before flowtech, and the extra parts are spare hardware kits for the flowtech hotend, so i just have the flowtech hotend and nozzle upgrade, and everything was installed correctly, i cleared my heatbreak clog, and haven’t got it again, ive concluded my clogs were caused by poor bed adhesion leading to filament getting stuck on the nozzle, that, and also an unknown issue with orca slicer was causing issues too, so i started using creality slicer, i was apprehensive about using it at first but now that i used it it has all of the same settings as orca, if not more, and more functionality for creality printers, it works well

I am trying to direct feed the space pi plus dryer to my K1 but confused in the best way to do this

1. as picture - is this small tube on bottom of sensor (with removable blue clamp) able to be removed so that I may direct feed from dryer to filament sensor? I just don't want to reef on the bottom and it breaks the sensor.

2. is printing a side adapter a better option - my issue with this is that they seem to be at the same height as the back one.

3. or do I have to by-pass the sensor and go through the top?