r/crealityk1

▲ 2 r/crealityk1+1 crossposts

Creality PPA-CF nozzle jam on K2 Plus

So I’m running into continuous issues when printing this new PPA-CF material and can’t find much information on this. I’m printing at 60 mm/s at 300 degrees Celsius on a new 0.6 mm nozzle. I’ve set the z hop to 0.8 mm and retraction to 0.8 mm aswell. Other than those changes I’m using the hyper PPA-CF preset. The prints fail halfway each time. I’ve gotten one successful print at the very beginning but the sides came out scratchy. Since then another issue is the nozzle bridges gaps between edges and doesn’t appear to retract when needed, this results in the prints needing to be trimmed and the tree supports being fused to the print itself. I’m using a thin layer of Elmer’s glue and a textured build plate, I don’t have access to a filament dryer and would really appreciate any help or advice. The clogs don’t happen in the extruder they happen in the nozzle, when I try to push filament through the top of the nozzle it seems to be jammed up very tight. The most recent test i did the nozzle got so jammed I had to stop because I am unable to get it out. I’ve ordered a new set of nozzles that should arrive tomorrow but am wondering if any settings should be changed aswell. Thanks for the help!!

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u/Imaginary_Service678 — 5 hours ago

Bed adhesion

I have two K1 Max printers. I have solved just about every printing problem I have had except for bed adhesion. Some of the time the glue that I got from Amazon works but most of the time it does not especially for larger prints. Is it just normal to have to glue every print down. If I use no glue the filament does not stick. No matter what I use, pla petg Asa whatever. If it is normal what kind of glue do you buy?

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u/Meek_braggart — 1 day ago

K1c with cfs not extruding

Hi, having this issue with my k1c not extruding. The CFS will bring the filament to the extruder, it locks, then will not feed. Says filament buffer error, but not sure how to fix.

EDIT: I left a bunch out cause my brain was fried. I've been running up against this issue for a long time.

The printer works fine without the CFS and printing from the spool holder.

Replaced the extruder, the nozzle, the heat block, the PTFE tubes in case it was a friction issue, replaced the filament sensor board in the cfs.

It's definitely not a clogged nozzle.

u/znhunter — 1 day ago
▲ 0 r/crealityk1+1 crossposts

Fist my bumped bed

https://preview.redd.it/z9lqzdz3c5kh1.png?width=1783&format=png&auto=webp&s=51182a9a126e250af84fc3bb89aa836cc49d1c98

Sorry for the title, trying to see if it draws attention.

I know values are pretty good below 0.5 but if possible I would like to get it lower just for the fun of it. I have a cartographer and a R3Men graphite bed. The printer is a K1 Max with a modded X rail gantry from Mils24.

I've already trammed it to the point it's all 0, which it's kind of visible on the image but for some reason the middle is higher. I've tried with a different build plate which kind of minimizes it but the bump is still there.

Has any one encountered a similar situation?

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▲ 8 r/crealityk1+1 crossposts

Reconsider buying from creality refurbished on ebay

I purchased a 2025 creality k1c from their ebay site at a great price and was impressed until I got the machine and it turned it on to be greeted with a black screen with green lines across. I started by messaging the ebay seller and didn't get a response for 2 days where they just told me to try reseating the connector. Obviously this didn't work so I told them that so I had to wait another 2 days until creality on ebay finally asked to ship a new mainboard the next day after waiting about week for slow shipping we get to today. Which is when I installed it and found that fixed the issue! Now I get to go through that almost 2 week process again because this printer came with a faulty nozzle board, 24 volts goes from the mainboard all the way up to the nozzle assembly. I checked if anything is being shorted out by disconnecting all other connectors all that happens is the board getting hot. Today I spoke to some customer service on the creality website to get a faster response and just got told to wait 48 hours so I assume ill get sent a new board in over a week. I attached images of all of these interactions and I hope to help some people from wasting their money on a broken printer labeled as working.

Let me remind you this was a printer sold as fully functional and functions as intended from a company with a 11.5 billion dollar market cap this is inexcusable quality control not to mention their extremely slow customer support.

u/Many_Ad5698 — 2 days ago

Is there any way to root k1c with cfs-c upgrade?

I had it rooted before installing upgrade and wonder if it is possible to do no since I need mainsail to send print remotely. So if anyone knows how to or has source please share.

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u/New_Fun774 — 2 days ago

The AI is useless isn’t it?

Was doing a long print (testing something) and I didn’t put glue down so some of it shifted and caused the print to become a stringy mess.

But did the fail protection kick in? No…it’s just running its little happy ass around printing like my 2year old colors.

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u/Rishiku — 3 days ago
▲ 10 r/crealityk1+1 crossposts

Creality K1 prints circles oval by a constant 0.3–0.35 mm at any size

Printer settings.

  • Printer: Creality K1.
  • Slicer: Orca , Prusa.
  • Filament does not affect this issure.
  • Nozzle and bed tempereture do not affect this issue.
  • Print speed: outer: 100 mm/s, infill 150 mm/s. Acceleration: 1000 mm/s^(2).
  • Retraction settings do not affect this issure.

Hi!

I’m trying to diagnose a dimensional error on my Creality K1.

Circles are consistently oval and the difference between the maximum and minimum diameters remains almost constant: approximately 0.3–0.35 mm regardless of the circle size.

For example, a nominal 25 mm circle measures roughly 25.2 mm in one direction and 24.9 mm in the perpendicular direction. The oval is stretched along the XY diagonal.

I tested circles of different diameters, and the error does not scale proportionally with their size. It remains around 0.3–0.35 mm. Because of that, it does not look like a simple rotation_distance/steps-per-mm calibration issue.

The most interesting test was changing the stepper pin assignments in Klipper so that the print coordinate system was rotated by 90°. After doing this, the ovality also rotated by 90°

In other words, the error followed the motor/kinematic coordinate system rather than remaining fixed relative to the physical bed or the model orientation. In my mind it excludes the geometry of the frame. But correct me if I'm wrong.

I turned the input shaper and pressure compensation off. Tried extremely low speeds like 60 mm/s, 1000 mm/s^(2). No result.

I also printed a 100 × 100 mm square frame and measured it carefully with the narrow jaws of the caliper to avoid the corner bulges. You can see the results in the picture. Overall print quality also leaves something to be desired.

The belts are tightened, the frame is rigid. I'm at a loss here.

Any ideas are welcome.

u/fumbienumbie — 3 days ago

Out of Range Error

I am having a problem where when I try to print the printer will print the purge line and then give me an out of range error everytime. I was having the problem and then got an update and it fixed it for about 2 prints then back to having issues

Context:

-I have a K1 max with a cfs installed.

-i recently replaced my extruder but had good points before and probably 10-15 after the change.

-i have tried different models

-i have tried different filaments and different spool slots in the cfs

-i ran a self check.

Does anyone know what I can do to troubleshoot this?

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u/Blueberry_Unfair — 2 days ago

K1 Max Screws/Bolts

I have a K-1 Max that has a lot of screws missing from the printhead. Nothing structural it looks like but the two screws that hold in the plastic piece at the top are missing and the screws that hold the gray cover are missing. Can anyone tell me what size fasteners I can get that will fit in these places.

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u/Meek_braggart — 2 days ago

So i have this issue with my k1c + cfs-c upgrade

So I keeps throwing error that material in extruder is stuck and can't retract and after disassemble I found filament in extruder like that. And system is brand new and I didn't have any issue for first few days, then it started throwing error.

Can somebody help me please

Edited: Also want to add that that it a piece of filament that got chewed up. And it happened again with same filament.

u/New_Fun774 — 3 days ago

me again :( - I got my K1 working and it was printing loads of stuff over the weekend but I started to see an error (CL2537) when it is doing the bed level check before a print

So the error text on the screen is [CL2537] The leveling sensor may have an external disturbance, please try again after resolving.

I haven't rooted the machine at this point - would that potentially help?

I can't see anything obviously wrong with the lead screws/etc and it's literally only done maybe 10-15 hours of printing since new. The error has been somewhat intermittent but currently after a power cycle, it is still doing it and so won't print. When I have got it to z home correctly, it has printed perfectly.

Any ideas on how to solve this or what to check are gratefully received - thanks in advance

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u/ParticularSuite — 2 days ago

My creality k1 has been messing up

I’ve been having these problems with my creality k1 ever since I did some repairs on the gears for it and I haven’t gotten it to print things properly. It’s now shifting mid print and making a loud noise as the nozzle moves like it’s got something in the way. I have attempted to tighten the gears and redo the grease for it but one of the belts are still loose and I can’t figure out why it’s making the noise

u/Pale_Blacksmith491 — 3 days ago

Loud noises and vibrating K1SE

I haven’t used my printer in 4-5 months, and I turned it on to print something yesterday, updated the software and ran a self check and it was soo loud and shaky. I thought maybe that was just for the self check, so I tried to print something and it still didn’t sound right. The head is also running into the front of the printer.

My ex left me this printer and he always did the maintenance on them, so I’m not sure how to diagnose or fix the problem.

u/One-Meat5445 — 5 days ago

Is there a top spool mount like this that allows for the lid to stay on?

Because of the space I have available, I don't have much room on the sides of my standard K1, or access to the back. So loading filament is a bit awkward. Ideally I'd like to have the spool mounted on top towards the back, and still have the lid on and use of the filament runout sensor. My instincts tell me I'm probably not the first person to want something like this and I am surprised I can't find one already designed.

Before I go down the path of trying to model one myself, has anyone seen a project like this?

Thanks in advance.

u/justice91423 — 5 days ago
▲ 2 r/crealityk1+1 crossposts

Drybox 2.0 problems

I bought a drybox 2.0 new about 3 weeks ago. Last night I set it to 65c for 6 hours to dry some petg. Woke up this morning and the display is messed up and the fan sounds louder than usual when I turn it on. It’s pretty much impossible to set an accurate temp or time now as the display just freaks out when turning the dial. I have tried unplugging it and waiting and plugging it back in and the issue persists. Kind of mad I even bought this thing since they just released the spacepi se for the same price which is apparently improved

u/justachilldoge — 4 days ago

Print time differing

so i was printing something again for a friend and when i went to reslice it it was 20 hours instead of the 8 hours it was to print before, so i went back and found the original file and it says 8 hours, i cant find any difference between the settings and was wondering what could have changed to cause the print time to drastically increase? its the same file it recently had all my prints increase in time so i was wondering if tyhere was a to fix it

u/LaLunnna — 5 days ago
▲ 13 r/crealityk1+1 crossposts

Fix for Orca Slicer v2.4.2 "Creality K1 CFS-C" preset

I hope this is helpful. I've been struggling with this for a while.

I’ve been running a K1 CFS‑C for a while and normally use Creality Print 7.2, which handles toolchanges correctly. Recently I switched to Orca Slicer 2.4.2 because I prefer its workflow, but I ran into a pretty unpleasant issue with the stock Creality K1_CFS-C system preset.

When slicing a multi‑filament print (with purge tower enabled), Orca’s stock preset inserts two T# commands for the first filament:

  1. One immediately after START_PRINT
  2. Another at the beginning of the first layer

On the CFS‑C, two consecutive T# commands do NOT mean “stay on this bay.”
Instead, the CFS‑C advances to the next bay, which breaks the filament order for the print. Creality Print avoids this problem because it does not emit a T# at the start of the first layer. Orca currently has no option to disable that behavior that I could figure out.

I tried a bunch of different work arounds, and I think I ended up with a clean, reliable set of machine G‑code blocks that:

  • Remove the redundant initial T#
  • Keep the wipe tower behavior intact
  • Add a small prime + XY nudge to stabilize the first brim after toolchange
  • Avoid unsafe Z‑drops during toolchange

Below are the working G‑code blocks I’m now using successfully with Orca Slicer 2.4.2.

Fixed Machine Start G‑code

  • ;---Machine start G-code ---
  • START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[first_layer_temperature] BED_TEMP=[first_layer_bed_temperature]
  • M204 S2000
  • G1 Z3 F600
  • M83
  • G92 E0
  • G1 Z1 F600
  • ;---End Machine start G-code ---

In the above, I removed T[initial_no_support_extruder] to prevent the redundant first-layer toolchange, and cleaned up temperature variables to Orca’s standard names, but kept the positioning and other commands that are still useful in this section.

Fixed Change Filament G-code:

  • ;---Change filament G-code ---
  • G2 Z{z_after_toolchange + 0.4} I0.86 J0.86 P1 F10000
  • G1 X[wipe_tower_x] Y[wipe_tower_y] F30000 ; use wipe tower instead of fixed coordinates
  • G1 Z{max(z_after_toolchange, 0.2)} F600 ; reduce risk of hot bed grind
  • T{next_extruder}
  • ; Tiny prime and nudge
  • G92 E0
  • G1 E0.6 F300
  • G92 E0
  • G1 X{wipe_tower_x + 0.3} Y[wipe_tower_y] F6000
  • ;---End Change filament G-code ---

In the above I refined a couple things, and included the T command so I could control the order. In Orca Slicer, it looks like if you don't include the T command, then it automatically adds one after the block. I also tried using a gcode if statement to exclude the T command for the first layer, but it didn't work because of that.

I've tested it a few times, and has been working great. If anyone else is running a K1 CFS‑C with Orca, feel free to try this out. Happy to answer questions or help test further improvements.

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u/Johan-MellowFellow — 4 days ago