I want to shift quicker but not overburden components.
Was told that I should "preload" shifter with foot (gentle pressure), then drop rpm but not necessarily fully, then clutch in only slightly.
Is this good advice?
I've been releasing throttle, fully clutching in, then shifting, then slight throttle and slowish clutch release.
Anyone had experience with this? I drive a 2026 DR650 and am looking for something as I'm learning the bike to monitor idle RPMs and figure out shift windows for myself, plus a digital speedometer is crisp!
Hello comunity! I've bought my DR 4 years ago and since then was driving it 50/50 road / soft offroad mainly in the woods. Recently my DR begin to "cough" - it miss power for about half a second once in a minute. I'm thinking something is preventing fuel to flow - this something could be in a tank in a fuel line or in a carburator.
I'm using acerbis 25L tank other fuel related things are stock.
This issue emerged in my recent ride in the woods. I've missed my acerbis tank cap somehow and about 20 mins after that when I hit the road and opened the throttle I noticed it. When I got back home I've installed new cap but problem didn't go away; I've tested it the next day - cough was still there.
I have almost zero mechanical knowledge and was solving any bike related problems with my buddy mechanic but he will not be able to help me for 3 weeks so I have to solve it myself.
What may be causing it? And how to solve it? Please help.
I'm at the age where I need readers for viewing my phone, watch, maps but I can read the instrument panel fine. I wear a full face helmet with flip up face shield and separate retractable sun shield. My distance vision is fine and I don't wear glasses all the time. I'm looking into some of the stick-on reader lenses that attach to the lower portion of sport sunglasses. When I'm on my MTB I wear sport glasses and this have read where others have had good luck with this approach.
Has anyone here used these kind of stick on reader lenses for the lower portion of their face shield and what was your experience with them?
First time changing out the chain and sprockets. Pulled off the stock and replaced it with this 14t. The stock sat farther back on the countershaft and had minimal play. Am I missing something or is this how it should be? Also side note check your cushdrive bearings!
After selling my BMW G310GS in March I badly want to have a motorcycle again.
This Dr 650 costs 2500€ and has 22k km on the odometer. It has 3 previous owners and is supposedly free of accidents.
It is not explicitly said that it was regularly serviced (don't know how much can go wrong with 22k km however).
I just don't like the front, is it possible to change that to a classic Enduro front ?
Also it's pre 96 (1995), are those as reliable as the post 96 as well ?
From a glance, do you think this could be a good buy ?
Thanks in advance!
My dr650 rides for a minute then bogs down sputters and stalls. It’ll go fine the first 15 minutes then start doing this. The carbs clean with a new float and a new choke. The airbox is opened and aftermarket jet kit. Any advice where I could check first.
Should I wait to re tune my carb and airbox mod until after I hit the 1k break in period mark? I would also like to do a slip on Yoshi, FMF or something (purley for sound). Essentially, should I just ride it stock during it's break in period? can I throw on a slip on without messing with airbox and carb just yet? Thanks
I’m in the market for new chain and sprockets. I’m thinking of 520 x ring (not sure how many links I need) 14t 42t. Any recommendations of websites (other than procycle) I could buy the whole set? what would be a reasonable price
2nd day of owning my brand new 2025 DR. Never seriously dropped a bike in my 25 years of life riding. Drove it 50 miles no problem, pulled up to a stop sign. Lost my footing stationary and dumped it on its left side. Sent the shifter right into the stator cover and dented it. It has the smallest micro hairline crack and is barely weeping. Nothing serious but I love ordering a brand new cover for something brand new😭 Help me feel better people.
First knobby tires I’ve ever had (Tusk DSport) does anyone also have that whistle sound when they ride?
97 DR, getting this strange noise. Seems unrelated to RPMs, same hot or cold, more noticeable at lower speeds. Definitely coming from the left side of the engine.
I checked the engine mounts and its not that. Maybe it's the valves? I'd be grateful for any tips!
Just wondering if the husqvarna 701/Ktm690 is really as unreliable as its sometimes portrayed. Currently have a dr650 with full racetech suspension that my wife and I both ride. I am selling an adventure bike that I hardly ride (prefer the dual sport open wind / weight). My choices are a 701/690 or another Dr650 which I would need to build out the suspension on. It goes without saying the dr650 is as reliable as it gets. Don't really mind doing maintenance, but I don't want to wipe a cam or whatever and worry perpetually that something else is the next weak link due to metal particles. What say the dualsport hive mind? BTW I really love the torquey nature of the 650.
Bought my first bike, been practicing take-offs and helmet comes tomorrow to hit the road. See ya'll out there!
Hi, my new to me 2021 DR650 suffered a clutch fail with engine revving massively with no power to go uphill. Its at 12000 km (7500 miles). I have been feathering the clutch for technical trails. Was on rotella t6 5w40 during early spring and switched to 15w40just before the last ride. Clutch had freeplay before but was tight after the failure.
Upon opening the case, the first friction plate is completely metal to metal. The other friction plates are within spec . Steel plates have some bluish tinge.
Interesting to see that these friction plates have FP and 492 punched on them which seems to be EBC so was replaced by previous owner as well.
Could there be something else going on that is making these clutch plates go bad.
Do I change the whole pack or just the front plates. I have looked at dp brakes. Couldnt find anything on rmatvmc from tusk.
Appreciate feedback and if I should do anything else while I am in there
After winter I cleaned my carb because my bike was not running well. Now, it’s been cleaned a new pilot jet has been installed. It is acting kind of crazy. It will idle okay, though it’ll die after a few minutes usually. Most oddly, when I pull the throttle it just goes wild. Sometimes it bogs, sometimes it revs insanely high, sometimes it stutters then revs, and sometimes it just kills the bike. Any thought on a diagnosis?
Highway speeds and up I have instability in the front end. Like a side to side sway, bumps will give it headshake. Not very comfortable to ride at all.
I’ve been fighting this for a while now, it seems to have started when I changed from the stock tire to a Shinko 244.
When my wife rides on back it’s nice and stable…I’ve tried a fork brace but since removed it, I checked and increased the preload on the steering head bearing, which seemed to help some.
Should I increase the preload more or maybe try a new tire?
Bike only has 3k miles, around 1k on the front tire.
Running around 26 psi in the front 244.
I’ve been looking at thread repair options for a oil drain plug thread and it seems that the 14mm Timecert kit looks to be the preffered method. But the kits themselves are very expensive. Has anyone done this repair cheaply and effectively?
Ive never cleaned the carb :/ wonder if that is it?
