r/e38

Remember me from this post from a month back where I wanted to see if anyone wanted to pay BAT prices directly for my 740il? Spoiler - no one did

https://www.reddit.com/r/e38/comments/1u7m402/anyone_want_a_2001_e38_740il_w_79k_miles_in/

Well two weeks ago someone's gam gam decided to exit a shopping plaza and tboned my baby. Everyone was ok but I knew right away she would be totaled.

Geico offered me $3900 initially but I fought them and had nearby listings and the videos from a month back. They upped the offer but I still won't be whole. Repair estimate is $14k+ and retainment price $1608. One of the body shop guy is coming up with an offer but I thought I would see if any other enthusiasts wanted to take a stab at fixing her. I am likely moving on to something else as similar spec e38 would cost high teens.

She is in West Warwick RI, has an additional set of wheels (pictured) with old tires, and the bluebus bluetooth adaptor. Odometer 80k+.

Be sure to have an agreed upon value or stated value policy. Progressive was no help during this process and actually made things worse.

Just needed to replace the capacitors in the screen itself and that was it!

I have a 1998 pre-facelift 740i with a M62B44 448S1.

Don‘t ask me how, but my buddy and me dropped a nut in the Zylinder before we tried to star the car.

Now the engine block is broken right at the coolant canal. As you see, coolant flows in the Zylinder under pressure.

I know that it’s a financial write off, but I love this car as it was my first car.

My options now are:

1. New engine I thought about just buying a used engine and just switching the engines but it’s way to expensive here in Germany.

It’s either: > 3,500€ for a good engine and weeks of switching the engines or > 1,500€ for a professional to put the engine in.

2. repair the engine block I have a guy in southeastern europe, he‘s a friend of my fiancés family and loved my car when it was still running. He’s a mechanic and wants to help me get my car back running.

He’s has a guy with the machines to apparently repair the engine block. He apparently has done this work on some N54 Engines and says that he can safe the block. Until now he has only seen videos of the issue, the car is still in Germany.

3. source a new engine block Find a used block (nothing on the market right now in Germany), let the guy grind the block and pistons and build the engine back up again

Conclusion: With option 3 (and 2) I would have a fully overhauled engine and would switch out all the wearing parts.

Risks: A: I would have to haul the car to southeast Europe and the could look at the engine after my invest of at least 500€. B: the repaired block could rip again or break and I‘m in the same spot again C: the could rip me of and in the end it could be more expensive (low risk and without the engine the car is trash)

Questions:

1. do you think, that the engine block can be repaired?
2. how high is the possibility to find a cheap (< 800€) block I could use?

Thanks for your opinions guys!!

so i have a 1998 740i and the radio only works for like 2-3 minutes after driving, i tought it was maybe the alternator but i recently got that rebuilt cus a new one is really expensive and i have a new battery in it, does anyone know about this issue?

Finally got my sagging headliner fixed and the upholster talked me into suede, honestly I think it’s an improvement. Sadly I broke my sunroof after reinstalling wrong. 1 step forward 2 steps back lol

Hey folks! In the video I initially up the RPMs a bit at the begining to get the fan clutch to disengage. The video is after a drive home after finishing the work (~70 miles and two hours).

I've just completed a transmission service on my pre-facelift 740 with 111000 miles. I've used a ZF kit (included a Filtran filter, etc). I get a hissing noise when stationary and in any gear. It's hard to notice unless you look for it, which is why the camera is low down by the ground.

I drained and dropped the pan. The material on the bottom looked no different if slightly less than what I've seen online. The magnets had some material but again less than what I've seen on others. I torqued the new filter back in (after having applied and lubed the o-ring). Sealed the pan with the gasket, torqued all bolts, etc.

I filled it up according to instructions. Filled, cycled gears, filled again, cycle gears, plugged with a dribble with the engine running. Made sure it was at about ~30c-45c at the end. I ended up putting about 5.65l in or so. Some spillage so say it's 5.55l.

Other than this noise which I noticed when I parked, the transmission is excellent to drive. Very smooth shifts. Can anyone give me some form of comfort/advice? Otherwise I might get underneath and make sure it's got enough fluid.

Thanks!

Edit: I went back to the car after letting it sit for an hour. No more noise. Weird. Any help appreciated.

2003 525i
The rear driver side window goes down but not up and it doesn’t slip or anything like that when you press up it just tries for a second then stops
I opened up the door panel and tried to take a look at it and I think the thing that’s wrong with it is that the metal cable is stuck in the reel or something. I need help with this urgently
I tried to push the motor up while pushing the up but ion in the drivers seat and that also didn’t work
If you can recommend some
Cheaper options or diy type things I would appreciate it because I really don’t have that much to spend
I unscrewed the window so I can put it up so rain doesn’t go in
I don’t know if it’ll stay but it’s staying for now

Please help

So about 2 weeks ago my 740i suddenly dropped on the driver’s rear after hearing a loud bang while cruising over a small bump. The car still rolled fine, but the rear ride height was sitting super low now.

After diagnosing the issue, I ordered new KYB rear shocks/mounts and OEM rear springs. During installation with the help of my more mechanically inclined friend, we ran into a clearance issue. The rear guide link needed to move out of the way to install the shock/spring assembly, but the bolt was seized according to him and he didn’t have the equipment to cut it out. The repair was paused because it looked like the bolt might need to be cut out.

After calling around for about a week I found a euro Indy shop willing to inspect the car (and take customer provided parts) and give a second opinion instead of immediately assuming the worst.

They ended up getting both rear struts installed while reusing the existing guide links. The only additional parts needed were new bump stops and bellows. They also installed all of my supplied suspension parts.

Final cost: $963.55.

The E38 is back sitting at factory ride height and driving great again.

The biggest lesson: sometimes it’s not the car, it’s finding the right shop.

Too many euro shops seem so scared to touch our E38s when a lot of us are trying to get them sorted and run into repair jobs that are beyond the scope of our DIY/Mechanical ability.

TL;DR: E38 rear suspension failed, seized bolt complicated the repair, but the right shop got it sorted. $963.55 later, she’s back sitting factory again.

Just wanted to share my story and say don’t give up on your E38 when a shop declines to work on your car.

I currently have an e39 540i. Im looking at this e38. it would be so sick. I want it so bad. the listed issues and the fact that he has an aftermarket catch can leads me to think its having an OSV issue, which is a job I think I can do. thoughts?