r/gigabyte

Hi, this is the less problematic app you can install for RGB in my opinion. Is there a way to remove other stuff and just use it for RGB?

https://preview.redd.it/hlulud22oobh1.png?width=1300&format=png&auto=webp&s=e6212923928f59e1e33835be00b872707bb63fb2

Hi guys I’m so confused and kind of irritated because I just finished building my PC last night and spent all day setting up the monitor. I’ve got windows 11 pro and I’ve already been able to access my desktop by bypassing the wifi thing but now I still can’t set up the wifi. I’ve tried downloading the wifi driver from aorus website but it doesn’t work, it just says “sorry this operation system isn’t supported” and I don’t understand what that means because the driver is for win 11 and I have win 11.

I also downloaded the AMD software driver and nothing happened so I didn’t think it worked but I did see something that said like “AMD software” in my installed apps but I don’t know if that means I installed the driver because it never gave me any message saying it worked or it was installed.

My motherboard is this one: GIGABYTE B850 AORUS Elite WIFI7 ICE AMD AM5 ATX Motherboard.

I’m kind of confused about all the drivers I haven’t installed any others for anything else bc I was trying to set up the wifi. If anyone can please help I would really appreciate that!

Below is the list of the components I have on hand. I guess I'm worried that Lian Lia uses a special connector cable different than Corsair for example and I won't be able to figure it out before I start the build in 1.5 hrs. The reason I chose to not go with the Lian Li fans is simple - overpriced and the Lian Li ecosystem is not as advanced as Corsair yet.

Please if there is something I am missing let me know so I can try to go buy at MicroCenter or Best Buy before they close.
Am I good using the cables that come with the Lian Li PSU?

I TRULY APPRCIATE THE HELP AND GUIDANCE ON THIS IMPUSLE BUILD....lol!!!

1. CASE - Lian Li O11 Compact (white)
2. PSU - Lian Li EG1000G Edge Gold PSU (white)
3. AIO - Corsair iCUE LINK TITAN 360 RX RGB AIO (white)
4. FANS - iCUE LINK QX120 RGB 3 FAN KIT (white)
5. FAN - iCUE LINK QX140 RGB 1 FAN EXPANSION KIT (white)
6. MOTHERBOARD - ROG STRIX Z890-A GAMING WIFI MOTHERBOARD (white)
7. GPU - GIGABITYE AERO OC 16 G GEFORCE RTX 5070TI GPU (white)
8. CPU - intel CORE ULTRA 9 UNLOCKED SERIES 2
9. HD - 4 TB SAMSUNG 990 PRO PCIe 4.0 NVMe M.2 SSD
10. HD - 1 TB SAMSUNG V-NAND SSD 970 EVOPlus NVMe M.2
11. HD - 1 TB SAMSUNG SSD 860 PRO
12. HD - 1 TB SAMSUND SSD 860 EVO
13. RAM - Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5 32 GB 6400 MHz two dims

https://preview.redd.it/cw8gij3uzgbh1.jpg?width=2038&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=97d8aa5f9df7bf9e3a187b2aac1d7eeb834ba85e

Hello,

As the title says for some reason I get really slow download speeds when downloading games and updates on steam, also sometimes with videos as well (YouTube, Crunchyroll, etc)

I have tried countless suggestions online and none have been able to help so far.

I have 900 Mbps download and 100 Mbps upload.

When I do a speed test it shows me having 700-900Mbps download and 80-100Mbps upload but on steam I get 1-10 MBps download.

I have recently upgraded my motherboard to the X870 Aorus Stealth Ice and never had this issue on my am4 Asus motherboard, it's been mind numbing trying to figure out why this is happening...

My current system specs are:

9800x3d

X870 Aorus Stealth Ice

Crucial Pro OC 32gb ddr5 (6400mhz)

MSI RTX 4070

The weirdest thing about this is the first few days, to my knowledge, it was working as it did before...

If you have any ideas as to why this is happening, any help will be greatly appreciated!

I just bought all new components for a build and can't get it to post. I first thought it was bad or incompatible memory, but through troubleshooting I'm pretty much ruled it out. I'm reaching out here to see what else I might try. Here are the components.

• GIGABYTE B850 AORUS ELITE WIFI7 ICE 
• AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
• CORSAIR - VENGEANCE RGB 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6000MHz C36
  • Originally tried this memory: Patriot Viper Xtreme 5 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6400
• SAMSUNG 990 PRO SSD 1TB PCIe 4.0 M.2 2280
• GIGABYTE Gaming Radeon RX 9060 XT 16GB
• MONTECH CENTURY II - 850W - 80 Plus Gold & Cybenetics Platinum

The memory light on the mobo stays on, no matter what I've tired. The memory is in the DDR5_A2 and DDR5_B2.

I first purchased the Patriot memory and when it didn't work, I tested in another system and that system booted. However, just in case it was a compatibility issue, I bought the Corsair as it is specifically on the mobo compatibility list. But the light still won't go off.

I've tried one stick of memory, and two, and still nothing. No change.

I flashed the BIOS using Qflash+. The USB stick is formatted in FAT32 (it's an older 128 MB, yep) stick. I renamed the file to gigabyte.bin as well. The qflash light was blinked for a while then went out. But then when I tried to turn on the PC, nothing shows up.

I've left the PC in boot mode for over close to 30 minutes in hopes it was a memory training issue. And still no change.

Is there anything else I can try, or would it be a bad mobo? Or something else.

This isn't my first build and maybe I've been lucky, but I've never had this much trouble before. Thanks for the help.

FINAL PURCHASE FROM MICROCENTER:
June 14, 2026
MICROCENTER BUNDLE:
————————————
✅ Ryzen 7 7800X3D
✅ B650E Max Gaming WiFi Motherboard
✅ 32GB DDR5-6000 RAM
$599.99
————————————-
OTHER HARDWARE:

✅ Gigabyte- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 WIND FORCE SFF OC Triple Fan 12GB GRER7 PCIe 5.0 Graphics Card
$599.99

✅ TeamGroup T-FORCE G50 2TB 3D TLC NAND Flash PCIe Gen 4 x4 NVMe M.2 Internal SSD
$299.99

✅ Montech- XR Tempered Glass ATX Mid-Tower Computer Case - Black
$69.99

✅ Corsair RMe Series RM850e 850 Watt Cybernetics Gold ATX Fully Modular Power Supply - ATX 3.1 Compatible
$109.99

✅ Thermalright- Aqua Elite 360 V3 360mm All in One Liquid CPU Cooling Kit - Black
$69.99

✅ ASUS ROG Strix OLED XG27AQDMG / XG27AQI
$399.99

The build went smooth. I have an APC/UPS 1350 from Schneider Electric connected with a PowerChute software. Installed Windows 11 Pro via Media Creation Tool with License Key. Enabled EXPO, HDR, Download Drivers, Updated BIOS, Installed BitDefender because my family has a License for another device, Downloaded Discord, Steam, Xbox App, and BitWarden. Bought Minecraft, and started playing. Once per day I have been experiencing idle crashes with various different error codes and different Mini Dump analyzation results that were puzzling, even with windows verifier running in an attempt to locate something more specific and concrete in Mini Dumps. One by one I diagnosed things and still got crashes after every move. I disabled EXPO, I reinstalled all the drivers-(AMD Chipset/NVIDIA/LAN/Ethernet/Audio/Bluetooth/ASUS Support Divers), I uninstalled BitDefender and activated Microsoft Security, Checked Microsoft Integrity by Running SFC & DISM, I checked the SSD Health with Powershell, I did physical RAM tests with MemTest86 on two separate 4 Pass runs, Considered Memory Context Restore & Power Down Mode, configured Windows Power Settings, OCCT Stress & Thermal Tests on CPU, GPU, & VRAM, Booted with One Stick of RAM in slot A2, and the step I’m currently on awaiting another potential crash is Onboarding with the GPU completely removed. I have absolutely no idea what to do if it does or doesn’t crash with this next test because if it does I suspect CPU Memory Controller or Motherboard DIMM Slot issues. If it doesn’t. I’ve isolated the issue to the GPU, which I would still have no resolution to because rather than a faulty component, I would think it’s some kind of settings I’m unaware of when the PC is idle. Here are compiles of SOME of the different readings analyzed from Mini Dumps, but I believe they are more misleading than one would initially suspect:

Date
Bugcheck
Bucket
Jul 2
PAGE FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_ AREA (0x50)
nt Obduplicateobject
Jul 3
QUOTA_UNDERFLOW (0x21)
nt PspReturnQuota
Jul3
SYSTEM SERVICE_EXCEPTION (0x3B)
Luafy NTFS
Jul 4
BAD_POOL CALLER (0xC2)
nt Topdele
brectExtension
Jul 4
SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
（0x7E
nt Capdelay Losehorker

when I press the back bios button, the pc turns on for 1 second and turns off again.

Even when I plug a usb key with the firmware file on it. Is there a max partition size and type that the motherboards requires?

thanks

Hi everyone,

I’m facing a very specific and frustrating SMART telemetry issue with my NVMe drive on a brand new AM5 build, and I need some technical insight into PCIe power states and motherboard behavior.

System Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3D

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080 Shadow

SSD: Samsung SSD 9100 PRO 2TB (Installed in the top M.2 slot, direct CPU lanes)

Motherboard: Gigabyte X870E Aorus Elite (BIOS version: F9)

OS: Windows 11 Pro

RAM: Corsair DDR5 CL30 32GB with EXPO enabled

PU: Asus ROG Strix 1000w Platinum

The Problem:

My SSD's SMART data is showing an alarming number of Unsafe Shutdowns (157) with only 196 Power-On Hours. The counter goes up by 1 almost every single time I turn off my PC.

Initially, I thought this only happened because I flip the switch on my power strip (surge protector) at night (even if I wait 2 hours after a clean Windows shutdown). However, I just made a major discovery: The counter increments sometimes even if I leave the power strip turned ON, as long as ErP Ready is enabled in the BIOS.

Here is the breakdown of what happens:

ErP OFF + Power Strip ON: If I leave the system completely stock and leave the wall power on, the motherboard keeps the 5VSB standby rail active. The counter usually DOES NOT increment, but about 1 out of 10 times it still does.

ErP OFF + Power Strip OFF (after 2 hours): If I cut the wall power hours after a clean shutdown, the residual capacitor drain from the PSU causes the 5VSB rail to drop slowly. The drive registers an Unsafe Shutdown (+1).

ErP ON + Power Strip ON: If I enable ErP in the BIOS to cut standby power automatically, the motherboard drops the 5VSB rail internally a second after Windows shuts down. The drive STILL registers an Unsafe Shutdown (+1), even without touching the physical wall switch.

(Percentage Used is 0%, Media Errors is 0%) and that Windows is shutting down perfectly (no Kernel-Power 41 crashes in Event Viewer).

What I’ve already configured:

Windows: Fast Startup is Disabled. PCI Express Link State Power Management (ASPM) is set to Off.

BIOS: Memory Context Restore and DRAM Power Down are Enabled to maintain fast boot times.

Note:

I do not want to physically disassemble the PC to move the SSD to a secondary chipset-managed M.2 slot, nor do I want to flash the BIOS to the newer F10 version since my F9 build is rock-solid stable and F10 only mentions generic AGESA updates.

My Question:

Has anyone else encountered this specific behavior with Samsung drives on recent Gigabyte/Aorus X870E platforms? Why does the Samsung controller interpret a standard 5VSB power rail drop (either via ErP or wall cutoff) as an abrupt power loss when the drive has been completely idle and unbothered? Is there any hidden low-level firmware setting that can fix this synchronization gap?

Thanks to anyone who can provide some insight!

My PC keeps getting the same error

“Invalid Signature detected, secure boot policy violation”

No matter what I do this error won’t go away. I’ve disabled secure boot and it just turns itself right back on, cleared cmos. Reset factory keys, reset bios completely, I’ve tried everything I can think of. Please help!!

Hey everyone, I need some help.

I finished building my PC yesterday and played for about 3 hours with no issues. After that, I restarted my PC and got a prompt to install Gigabyte Control Center, so I did.

Now I can't open any apps at all — not even Task Manager or Windows Settings. The only things that still open are File Explorer and Gigabyte Control Center itself, but Control Center doesn't work properly either; it keeps asking me to install a driver.

I tried installing the driver through Control Center, but it just crashes. After about 10 minutes, my screen goes completely black.

I'm not sure what's causing this or how to fix

Hey, i just ordered a new pc and after looking around in the internet i just keep on reading how bad the software is and that its causing stutters for some, now im overthinking and im scared that it was a bad decision to get that gigabyte board.

Gigabyte B850 AORUS Elite WIFI7, PCIe 5.0 x16

i just want simple lightning control and fan speed control how much problems will i get with the gigabyte software?