r/gmc

2022, 5.3L, SLT, 67,400 miles, mobile1 oil every 5k miles, oil filter every other, 0 problems.

In the light of the 6.2 engine issues would it be wise for my vehicle to go to a dealership for the "67,000" maintenance? I was thinking maybe GMC could identify some wear and tear that may be warrantied. Is there an initiative at GMC to fix small "now" problems in hopes of avoiding or taking ownership of long term "preventable" problems?

Had to get my pistons replaced. Under warranty which is good but now from the dealership it comes out with a code about the active grille shutters not working and a check engine light is on.

Is this a simple fix? It was working before I dropped the car off to get the engine fixed initially.

Anyone do this themselves?

2023 gmc terrain sle

Bought new sierra 1500 elevation , every service done at the dealer. Never towed anything heavy, never off road.

Symptoms started around in 2024 transmission hot idle engine popped up - took it to the dealer and dealer replaces the valve module and shift lever under warranty .

Fast forward to last week same message popped up drive straight to the dealer but this time it was out of warranty they tore down the transmission unit and gave me a heavy qoute around 18k usd to overhaul and change valve head , few clutch and transmission lever.

Here’s where it’s stuck. The dealer says they can’t identify the cause even after the teardown and told me replacing these damaged parts is all thats possible from their side but im worried this will most certaily happen in another 10 or 15k miles
Have anyone gone through this ?

Back in 2024, I got a "Transmission Hot - Idle Engine" message. The dealer replaced the valve module and shift lever under warranty.

Last week, the exact same message returned. Now out of warranty, the dealer tore down the transmission and quoted 18k USD to overhaul it (valve head, clutch packs, shift lever).

Last week, the exact same message returned. Now out of warranty, the dealer tore down the transmission and quoted 18k USD to overhaul it (valve head, clutch packs, shift lever).

Has anyone else dealt with this, or had success escalating a repeat issue like this to corporate? Maybe had similar issue but found the root cause ?

Long list of work done: control arms, ball joints, tie rods, Bilstein shocks, both cats and all the O2s, fuel pump, EGR, water pump back in May, and a steering box with a Borgeson shaft. Front diff and transfer case actuator too. In person it’s dirty but dry under the hood, body’s straight, no rust.

Only thing nagging me is the whole list and not one word about the trans. It’s a 4L60E at 235k. Feels like the thing you’d mention if you’d touched it, and he didn’t.

So — is $3k fair for a clean two-year-only GMT400 Denali at this mileage? Anything specific I should feel for on the drive besides the obvious slipping? And does front diff + t-case actuator work sound like normal old-truck stuff to you or would you be asking what broke?

Plan is to daily it 6-12 months then flip it. Tell me if I’m about to buy someone’s transmission problem.

I am a mom of 3 and I WFH. Mostly drive around locally but we do visit our vacation home a few times a year which is about 3-4 hours away.

I am currently looking at two vehicles:

1. 2025 Yukon xl elevation with premium package, no super cruise, 30k miles, Denali ultimate wheels, used.
2. 2026 Yukon xl elevation with premium package, super cruise, 9k miles, used.

There is about a $7k price difference with the 2026 being higher. Is the super cruise worth it for a driver like me? I’ve never used it so I don’t know what I am missing. Both vehicles are a few hours away so I was thinking of test driving a new one close by with super cruise to see what it’s like. Will that be enough for me to decide?

Just having a hard time justifying the super cruise. I don’t think there are many other differences between the 25 and 26, correct?

The mileage doesn’t bother me too much because I don’t drive that much. I’ve put less than 50k miles on my current car over the last 6 years for reference. Thanks!

Obviously GM is collecting data from Super Cruise users. It knows what roads you're driving on to give accurate GPS, and Lane assist. Also all the sensor data. How to I keep GM from using this data as a future revenue stream? Say from trying to sell it to insurance companies? And maybe not just the Super Cruise data.

For instance, user A, in state A, typically uses Super Cruise set at XX speed, on interstate XX, for xx miles between city A & B. Yes, it maybe aggregate, or it may not be. Maybe it's tied to an identifier that can also be traced to my VIN number.

If GM decides to shop this information around, to all the major insurance companies, then it won't matter if I switch from let's say Progressive to Allstate, one may decide I'm a higher risk because of something I can't control. Such as numbers of accidents on a certain road between A & B over the last interval months/years. They may also be able to know from the telematics that I'm towing. The data would indicate if it's likely a boat, horse trailer, car hauler, etc. So how do we keep that data from being used in ways we wouldn't expect? Not only for commercial purposes, but used by the government without a warrant?

As the title says I found my dream GMC Canyon AT4X. Wife says that I should get it. But it's 3 hours away

I've been searching for months. A GMC Canyon AT4X in Desert Sand with the Performance package. It's a rare combination. I called every dealer within 200 miles and no one had it

Then I found Simpson in Buena Park and their website showed exactly what I was looking for. I called and the manager confirmed it's sitting on the lot. It's real…

My wife said that I should get it before someone else does and she's right. But I'm second-guessing myself

It's a 3-hour drive. That's a big trip. And I'd need to take out a slightly larger loan than I planned. The numbers still work. But I'm hesitating…

What if I drive down and it's already sold? What if the manager promised it to me but someone else buys it this afternoon? I can't afford to lose this truck

Has anyone put down a deposit remotely to lock in a vehicle? Is that safe? Does Simpson hold cars with a deposit? I've never done this before. I don't want to be that guy who loses his dream truck because he overthought everything

I'm ready to make the move. I'm just nervous…

Hello, it is time to buy a new SUV, my beloved 2007 denali's cylinder failed (for the 2nd and last time), I know there's issues with the 6.2 but can't deny I'm tempted by a brand new Yukon D. The Yukon AT4 caught my attention but I read it doesn't drive as nicely as the D? That it is weird while changing lanes? I'm not going off roading, just normal daily drive and maybe going to a different state 4 times a year. Any suggestions,.opinions or whatever you wanna tell me which might help to make up my mind? Thank you!

Hello all,

So I got a 2000 2.2L Sonoma with code P0200, and cylinder #4 fuel injector flooding the cylinder. Troubleshooting and process of elimination has narrowed it down to the injector driver inside the ECU/PCM being always 'on', meaning there is always a 'circuit to ground', thus the injector is always spraying fuel. This seems to be a known issue with this vintage of vehicle, even if not common. I'll use "ECU" below but mean ECU/PCM since I understand the one hardware module is essentially both. It seems I have two options.

#1 - Replace the ECU.

#2 - Open up the existing ECU and replace the injector driver.

Hoping you folks can provide comments for both.

For option #1 it seems I need to find a new or used ECU, have its VIN reprogrammed. However I understand it doesn't end there, and that you need to initiate some sort of modules resyncing, meaning the ECU and other modules need to be resynced, or rekeyed, or something.

So my first set of questions for #1 are like this: what do I need to do, and what equipment do I need to do it? Also, is there a company in Canada or USA that does at least some of this, and helps make the whole process much easier? If yes please provide info.

For option #2 I am unable to find info that easily identifies which component on the ECU circuit board contains the injector driver. My quick math tells me the current through an injector is in the range of 1 amp, versus say low milliamps, so that suggests to me the component providing the injector driver circuitry is a larger external package MOSFET (typically has a metal side for heat sinking), versus an Integrated Circuit (IC) type chip. But I really don't know. I'm trying to follow the printed circuit board (PCB) traces, from pins #75 & #76, but with all the stuff on the PCB, and itty bitty traces, I haven't been successful so far. I am assuming it will be a component that I can desolder, remove, replace, and resolder, but that is yet to be seen.

So my first set of questions for #2 are like this: has any of you done this before? What component contains the injector driver? Is it an IC, or is it a larger external package MOSFET? Anyone have any pictures? Is there a company that does this and I can simply mail them the ECU and they send it back?

With the various engine swaps going on, I am guessing #1 may actually be the easier way forward, even if it sort of have more steps, and more $$$ involved.

Please help. I should add this is a project truck that my son and I, and a dear uncle of his, are working on. It would be sweet to see that P0200 code clear and have a nice smooth running engine assuming no other issues with it of course haha!

I'd also like to understand what causes the injector driver circuit to get like this. It's MOSFET based I understand, so it's likely blown, thus now a short circuit. What can cause this to happen? I am wondering if I should replace the injectors for piece of mind. However, they all measure the same resistance, and the wiring harness measures fine too, i.e. no shorts. I'd like to be sure I have fixed any possible 'external' issues before replacing the whole ECU or a MOSFET.

Hoping the Sonoma community, and perhaps even the larger GM (Chevy/GMC) community can help. Thanks everyone!

Hi,

I’m looking for some feedback

I (M29) bought a 2026 Sierra elevation X31 with the 5.3 at the end of May. I had been looking for a long time and finally bit the bullet during truck month. I upgraded (kept, did not trade in) from a level-lifted 2011 Silverado with an exhaust (my high school truck). Right away I loved the tech and the how new everything felt. That feeling has wore off already. I actually find myself driving my ‘11 during the weekends and the ‘26 stays in the garage. I can’t pin down what I don’t love about it. Below is a quick PRO/CON list for the ‘26…

CONS
- I constantly have the no audio issue
- CarPlay works whenever it wants to
- transmission has hesitation compared to my old truck
- the seat does not adjust to how I sat in my ‘11 and I find myself uncomfortable after a little while (nothing you would notice during a test drive) I’m taking it for the new longer drive later this month… we’ll see how it goes.
- the sun glare is ridiculous

PROS
- ride quality is fantastic
- Bose audio is excellent (when it works)
- remote start
- misc tech that didn’t exist 15 years ago
- the overall look of the truck is 10/10
- tows great

Is it stupid to consider trading it in/ returning it??

A few other items to consider;
- I had the front PPFed the first week I had it and I had that installer replace the badges with black EOM badges
- it has about 2500 miles on it
- I got it at 0% financing and owe about $56k
- aside from a faulty fuel level sensor and some rusted rear fenders… my ‘11 is in good shape. I just wanted an upgrade.

If I’m going to trade it in/ return it… I would think sooner the better.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!

EDIT: “return” was a bad choice of words… I know I can’t just give it back and recoup my money.

I own a 2006 GMC Sierra with the Bose speakers. It's close to mint condition and stock so I still have the OEM radio and prefer to keep it that way. It's started to eject cd's and not play any this year. Here's how the process goes:

Inject CD -> CD goes in -> radio says "loading CD 1" -> then it moves into position and goes quiet -> then it ejects the CD with the radio saying "please check CD"

I have taken the radio out and the top off to watch it, but I cannot tell if there are any problems inside. Am I assuming it's either old gears, a bad laser, or both? Curious if this is fixable.