r/mazda6

Hello, looking at a 2018 Mazda 6 wagon, 2.2 diesel, 184hp SkyActiv-D. Couldn't find much in the way of reviews or long-term experience specifically about this updated engine version.

As far as I know, the 2012-2017 models had some issues with EGR/carbon buildup, timing chain tensioner wear, injectors, and a few other things. Wondering if anyone here has this newer version and can share how it's been treating them?

Curious if the facelift actually improved things or if it's basically the same engine with the same weak points.

Thanks!

Car has suddenly started idling low/rough while parked or at stop lights/signs. Changed MAF Sensor and spark plugs. Any ideas?

I’m absolutely thrilled right now. My 2017 Mazda6 GT picked up some minor shifting issues around the 95k mileage mark, so had a trans fluid drain and fill performed which didn’t solve the minor downshifting issues.

I was going to take it in to a local independent trans shop (likely looking at a $400+ diagnostic) and then ran across this video. Literally 60 seconds of resetting the gear ratios from the driver’s seat, my car was running like a top.

Based of the video comments it sounds like this is a common issue so I wanted to share in case it helps anyone down the road! I almost just let it ride with the issues and I’m sure others felt the same way, but so glad I ran across this with how incredibly easy this fix was. Proven fix for this cx-5 and my mazda6 so I want to say this corrects several Skyactiv engine models.

Had a wild night coming back from work tdy. Basically what happened was I was on the highway right, and there was a car in-front of me who hit his breaks but I was a good distance away from him. But I think cuz the speed at which i was approaching his car wasnt deemed ‘safe’ by my car, despite me having it under control my car took control and slammed the breaks so hard my car came to a complete stop ON THE HIGHWAY. It protected me from the car in front, sure. But if someone were behind me I would have a 100% gotten rear ended. This has never happened before. Brake was so hard i almost faceplanted my steering wheel. (I had my seatbelt on). I just thought you guys should know about this cuz it has never happened before…

I have 132k miles on my mazda6 and haven't had transmission fluid changed(yes I know I'm stupid).I haven't noticed any issues with shifting but am starting to worry about it. Ive seen so much conflicting information, is there any truth to not changing it at a certain point and am I at that point? Or should I change it and if so the Mazda dealership near me suggested a flush which I've also seen mixed info on whether or not that's good or bad vs the drain and fill twice.

2017 2.2 Diesel (because I don't like money)

7 months ago I replaced my alternator after the the bearing in the pulley detonated, replaced with an Aftermarket unit.

1 month ago I got an Error / Warning - Charging system malfunction, park vehicle where safe and report to dealership. My mechanic diagnosed it as a faulty alternator, replaced the alternator again and I'm back in business.

Anyway, didn't drive it for 2 weeks then last week I went to start the car and "Warning - Charging system malfunction" - fuck. On the back of the tow truck back to the mechanic.

This time the alternator is fine, however the fuse has blown between the i-Eloop system and the battery. Indicating a fault in the system that's not showing up an error code. The mechanics thinking is that instead of the fuse blowing last time, it just blew up the alternator instead (joy $$)

Anyone out there experienced similar? What was the root cause of the issue?

The mechanic is having an Auto Elec look into it, as his diagnostic tool won't talk to the i-Eloop system.

Cheers.

PS. I'm glad I have a 2nd car and the Mazda is my Weekend car

Hi all,

I purchased a 2023 Mazda 3 Select Sport with around 15k miles for $19.5k OTD in January 2026. The reason I am mentioning that is because I am thinking of exchanging this vehicle for another Mazda without cylinder deactivation if it makes some financial sense. I will assume the reader knows what cylinder deactivation as it is talked about ad nauseum in Mazda communities. After reading on this forum, I notice that the general consensus in the Mazda community is that cylinder deactivation (CD) is an overall downside of owning a newer generation Mazda. While doing research on the car, I honestly did not know about cylinder deactivation and purchased the vehicle due to Mazda's marquee reliability, quasi-luxury interior, features, touchscreen-less infotainment and sportiness compared to other econoboxes (Civic or Corolla). I really like the vehicle and do not regret purchasing it, but would have liked to have paid more for features (I understand some can be retrofitted aftermarket) on higher trims such as memory seats, power seats, heated seats, reverse rear tilt heated side mirrors, and Bose speakers, but that is unrelated to this topic.

Everyone generally recommends buyers to purchase a Mazda vehicle WITHOUT cylinder deactivation such as the 2021, 2022, and early 2024 Mazda 3 models which have no CD, but hardly anyone talks about the potential pros and cons of getting rid of a Mazda with cylinder deactivation that you already have.

This statement is very important because this explains why owners of Mazdas with cylinder deactivation should at least think about exchanging their vehicle: I, like many other buyers, want to minimize car ownership costs and want high reliability which cylinder deactivation may jeopardize.

Although I talk about the Mazda 3 in this post, this applies to all Mazda vehicles with cylinder deactivation.

To play devil's advocate, although most have qualms with cylinder deactivation, I have not seen concrete evidence to support the fact that new implementations of it are deleterious for long-term reliability. I also have not seen any evidence for the contrary, which makes me concerned. Even beyond mentioning the nuisance it causes for some drivers, but this post is only concerned with long-term reliability.

It is accepted that Mazda's implementation of cylinder deactivation is implemented better than those in GM, Chevrolet, and even Honda. For example, the late Mazda 3 2023-2025 revised engines with EGR, swirl flaps in the intake manifold, 191 hp, and a mechanical thermostat, haven't had any major issues reported yet, although it's still too early to make conclusions about long-term reliability. Any issues related to cylinder deactivation so far for the Mazda 3 2019 and potentially 2020 models had poor casting around the cylinder heads, unrelated to cylinder deactivation directly. Time will only tell, but I fear it may be better to get rid of these vehicles instead of being behind the eight ball.

Despite that, there was a popular post by a Mazda Tech who recommends new buyers not to purchase a Mazda with cylinder deactivation because he expects problems with ALL Mazda vehicles around 150k miles on vehicles equipped with cylinder deactivation. He even claims he has seen issues with 2023+ models once they receive high enough mileage. He also expects to see cracked head issues eventually, regardless of the cylinder deactivation implementation which include the older 2018-2020 engines and late 2023-2025 revised engines for the Mazda 3. Granted, I am not taking this Mazda tech's comments as gospel, but his comments are a representation of the sentiments toward cylinder deactivation in the Mazda community. I haven't seen a single person adequately refute any of these sentiments which are shared in the Mazda community and his post is a manifestation of cylinder deactivation's critics.

If I am overreacting to the potential long-term reliability problems, then why does everyone recommend to avoid Mazdas with cylinder deactivation? People often recommend the models without cylinder deactivation, but most of the newer Mazdas DO have cylinder deactivation so many Mazda owners are in the same boat as me. The reality is that Mazda, whether for more competitive gas mileage, EPA, CAFE, or other regulations is pushing cylinder deactivation in their newer vehicles and cherry-picking their fewer vehicles without it does not address the tradeoffs associated with keeping a vehicle with cylinder deactivation or trading/selling it. Those that brush off cylinder deactivation as a long-term reliability risk often have no evidence to support their cavalier attitude.

Pros

• You exchange your Mazda with cylinder deactivation for one without cylinder deactivation, thereby increasing the overall long-term reliability of your vehicle. Of course, there's no guarantee that doing this exchange results in more long-term reliability and more often than not (unless you're buying 2026+), you're looking at a much higher mileage vehicle that has less life yet (in theory) than your low mileage Mazda. For example, critics of cylinder deactivation may expect a 2017 Mazda 3 with 80k miles to last longer (with proper maintenance) than a 2024 Mazda 3 with 20k miles because of cylinder deactivation.

Cons

• Selling/trading in a newer Mazda will likely result in you taking a large haircut (loss). For trade-ins, you're likely to get lowballed by dealers. Selling to a private party will be an arduous process and these newer Mazdas are often too expensive (20k+) to be desirable to private buyers, making them less liquid assets. So you'll either waste a lot of time or money doing either option.
• You will likely get lower gas mileage, but that is a tradeoff most are willing to make. If you have the late 2023-2025 models, you'll also lose the mechanical thermostat which is less problematic than the coolant control valve on 2018-2022 and 2026-present models.
• Since there exist fewer Mazdas with no cylinder deactivation than those with, it will likely take more time, effort, and energy for you to find a viable option in the used car market which is still outrageously expensive for car buyers.

The question becomes as follows: at what point does it make financial sense to trade in your newer Mazda, assuming you still want a Mazda vehicle (which I assume most reading do), for a likely older higher mileage (except 2026) Mazda?

TL;DR: Cylinder deactivation is bad. Should owners of newer generation Mazdas with cylinder deactivation exchange their vehicles for ones without cylinder deactivation for the expectation of longer term reliability and minimized car ownership costs. If not, why? Is the money you would lose on a trade or the time lost trying to sell it worth it?

If you are a newer generation Mazda owner and have thought about this issue, please let me know what you think.