Mazda 6, 2.2 D, Sport Nav, 2015, 109k. Miles. Lowered with springs, remapped.
It’s been a while since I’ve seen any 6s like mine around! 👀
Where are you all hiding?! 😎
Come on, show yourselves and let’s see those beautiful 6s! ❤️🔥🚗
Be proud of what you’ve got — let’s get the Mazda 6s out there! 💪🔥
Some dickhead side swiped me on my way to work this morning. Of course they kept driving. I filed a police report but am not optimistic that a person that drives away from an accident is insured. Question is it worth going through insurance or would it be cheaper to do the replacement myself?
TYIA
Hello all. Recently got a used 2018 Mazda6 Touring with 69k miles on it. Now has 74k. Was wondering if I should drop the pan, replace the filter, reseal the pan with new sealant, and then fill it up. Or just do a regular drain and fill?
Did my brakes about 1k miles/2 weeks ago. They were initially fine but about a week ago started squeaking badly. After inspection of everything, the only thing I can see is that the rear driver side rotor has a band of rust on the face of the rotor, indicating that part of the pad is not contacting the rotor. I think this is what causes my squeak (squeak seems to come from about 5mph and lower, and doesn’t do it all the time but seems to do it always when on a hill).
Basically, my question is, what could be doing this? The rear pads are akebono and the rotors are brembo. I made sure that I put the correct pads on the correct side. Yesterday, when trying to diagnose this, I could see a very tiny visible gap between the very bottom portion of the outer pad on that rotor (the same face that has rust).
Anyway, I wanted to know if there was something I might have missed that’s specific to the car. Do the calipers have to be positioned a certain way, like do the grooves on it have to go any certain way? I know it must be in the EPB maintenance mode and should push straight back.
Very confused and I’m beginning to get frustrated because I can’t figure out where I went wrong.
Greetings,
I have a 2014 Mazda6 GT with approximately 39K miles. I am trying to see if anyone has experienced my issue and what was their fixes. I also want to decide whether to go ahead with A/C repair based on the 1st mechanic diagnosis or get a second opinion.
A/C had been working normally. I took the car on a ~3hour trip and parked it at the hotel valet (the only option I had without losing much time) to attend an event. When I got the car back after it had been parked outside in the sun all day, I noticed the following:
I took it to a small local shop that specialized in automative A/C and electrical work, a mechanic with apparently many years of experience. He recovered ~0.80 lb of refrigerant. The car specifies ~1.135 lb (0.515 kg), so that is roughly 30% low. He added a small amount of refrigerant plus Green dye, as there were no obvious signs of leaking, yet.
After checking the refrigerant-line temperature and hoses, he believes the system has an internal restriction/clogging and strongly recommended NOT to turn the compressor again until changing the expansion valve and condenser, to avoid destroying the compressor. Attached photo shows the observations on the A/C line temperatures.
The circled line on the photo is cold (not freezing cold), which he thought should be hot, and that is what led him to conclude the system is clogged/restricted.
My questions for anyone familiar with car/MAZDA 6 A/C issues or have experienced similar symptoms:
Has anyone with a 2014–2016 Mazda6 experienced similar symptoms? If so, what ultimately turned out to be the problem?
I realize this is a long post, so any insight on any of these points would be greatly appreciated. I have experienced A/C issues with my previous car, but not as odd as this one, at least to me.
Thanks!
Joined this sub almost a month ago when I made the decision to get a 2018 Mazda6 Touring due to its uniqueness, reliability, design language, & fuel efficiency. Thank you all for showing your cars and discussing your experiences, you really helped.
Blind buy at an online auction for $5k total with 148k miles on it 2 weeks ago, a reasonable CarFax (2 minor accidents & recent service history), & faith.
Changed the spark plugs about an hour after pickup, ran fuel cleaner & 93 octane to dilute old gas, replaced a single tire, topped up fluids, and drove 800 miles home the same day with minimal issues.
I know the old owner didn’t take great care of it (it was repo’d & they left ash marks) so mechanically, I’m dealing with a cat con P0421 issue after clearing the P0300 spark plug code, a slight transmission issue where I feel slight jerks between 15-20 mph while feathering the pedal and when slowly revving up to highway speed, a faulty expansion valve that blows cold air when it wants, and a worn CV axle.
The BSM is wonky and the driver’s side view mirror cable to connect the BSM plug is missing, the passenger safety system beeps if seatbelt isn’t latched, & that’s about it. I didn’t go to buy a perfect car, so I had a fix-up budget in mind ahead of time.
Apart from all listed, it’s fun to drive & it looks beautiful! I love the sound system, the CarPlay is mint, & the features that do work, work well. It rides nice, the cabin is QUIET, and the engine has some pep despite it being sub-200 HP. Wouldn’t trade it for anything else in its year except a higher trim.
Welcome me, family.
Back in October I got in a crash and totaled my car. Being scared of another crash or unreliable car I went to a Mazda dealership and bought a beautiful red 2020 Mazda 6 GT Reserve. By far the fastest and nicest car I've ever had but also the most expensive by far. And such is the problem.
The monthly payment is a solid 5th of my monthly income but I could fully pay her off in 4 years. My thought process is sell my car and get a much older car that I can just fix up. If I do this every few years I could save some money and give some life to older cars. But I love my car
I've learned how to do basic maintenance myself and am willing to work on more difficult repairs. She's a few hundred miles from 100k and I'm going to take her in for a multi-point inspection. If I keep my car I'll be aiming for 500k miles. What should I replace and maintain to get there?
Should I keep my car for the next 10 years or fix up old cars every few years to save some money?
I have what seems to be a steering column lock malfunction whereby it struggles to detect my key. Pushing the Mazda logo against the start button used to work, but currently it takes minutes to constantly pressing it from various different angles before it “clicks”. I have replaced the batteries in both keys, to no avail. Some days, it works just fine, until it doesn’t - it’s very irregular. My garage had a look but were unable to do anything as even if they get a new unit, they won’t be able to reprogram it as Mazda don’t share their information publicly. Before I go to Mazda, has anyone come across this issue before and found a solution? The car is Mazda 6 2019 2.0.
Removed timing chain and I’m going back in together. I marked my camshafts in relation to the caps and also marked my timing gear teeth. I’ve installed the timing belt and noticed I still have back and forth movement on the intake camshaft that makes without the outside timing gear moving as I’m showing on the video. When I turn the engine 2 full revolutions my painted timing marks don’t line up on my intake camshaft. I have to take a wrench and turn the cam slightly to get it to match. However the gear side of the camshaft teeth stay completely in time the whole time. Why does my camshaft move so much like I’m showing in the video. And where should I leave the camshaft in relation to my marks? Could I have broken the variable timing camshaft assembly?
For context, my 2021 Mazda 6 was giving me some issues and throwing malfunctions for the front systems (camera, brakes, etc), hesitation on startup (or just straight up not starting at all) and I thought it was just a failing battery. The battery was indeed basically dead so I got it replaced. The malfunctions went away and all seemed well… until this morning.
Update: Battery was basically dead. Got it replaced. All is well.
Need help for my 2018 Mazda 6 2.5L Na. It’s Sunday today and last time I drove was Friday night and it drove fine. The battery seems fine and sounds like it wants to spark but nothings happening.
Can anyone help me?
Saw the all-new Mazda 6E for the first time today at my local dealership while dropping off my Mazda 6 for a service.
I’m honestly a bit torn. It definitely looks tempting in person, but at the same time I wasn’t blown away by it. Maybe that’s just because I’m not much of an EV person 😅
Curious what everyone else thinks, especially anyone who’s already had a proper look at one or taken one for a test drive. How does it actually feel to drive, and does it still feel like a Mazda?
Hey folks! Bought a used mazda6 and only at home I noticed an odd thing. The covering the openings on the far sides of the license plate are missing.
Googled and it seems they can fall off feom bumps etc... But while comparing the area to some other mazda6 it seems to me like more components are missing, what exactly am I looking at?
Attached are the images from a car with the pieces and mine without.
The car has no collision history of any kind. Would like to understand what I am looking at before I complain. :)
Thank you for any help!
I have a 2016 mazda 6 grand touring with the skyactive engine, and it recently started overheating while in traffic, My scanner said it reached about 240-250 F, and pulled over to check it out.
A/C - not working/blowing hot
Small radiator hose below lower radiator hose on the engine has a pinhole spraying/bubbling a tiny bit of coolant. Worse at high pressure.
Coolant resevoir - Full
Radiator fans - On, and running high speed
Upper hose - Hot, with coolant I think
Engine cools while coasting, and climbs when accelerating.
I let it cool and started it again.
It ran fine, so I drove an hour with no overheating, then stopped
Started again with same problem, so I had it towed.
If I idle it in the shade, it stays around 220 F for about 5 minutes before it starts to climb to 230+ F.
Edit:
The mechanic said the thermosat housing is cracked, and wants to charge 731 to fix it including the diagnosis, and parts. It seems easy enough to fix myself. That's way too much right?
I have a 2016 mazda 6 with the 2.5l skyactiv engine and it is overheating, even though the coolant is full
Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice or similar experiences with my 2018 Mazda 6 Wagon 2.2 diesel, which I recently bought used with around 180,000 km.
Since buying the car, I’ve had a recurring issue while driving, especially on longer motorway trips. Several warning lights suddenly come on at the same time (DSC/traction control, i-stop and driver assistance warnings) and the car goes into what feels like limp mode / reduced power.
Until now, whenever this happened, I could pull over, switch the engine off and restart it, and all the warnings would disappear. The car would then drive normally again.
I took it back to the dealer and they connected their diagnostic equipment while checking the car. According to them, the issue was related to the front camera / automatic emergency braking system being incorrectly calibrated. They said the camera needed to be recalibrated and we agreed that I would bring the car back once their workshop reopened after the August holidays.
However, while I’m still waiting for that appointment, it happened again yesterday while driving on the motorway at a steady speed/rpm.
This time there was one important difference: the check engine light also came on.
After stopping and restarting the car, the other warning lights disappeared as usual, but the check engine light stayed on. The infotainment system now shows: “Engine system malfunction. Have the vehicle inspected immediately by a dealer.”
I drove straight home and I’m not planning to use the car again until the dealer can properly diagnose it.
What makes me wonder is whether the camera calibration really explains everything. I can understand the camera causing warnings related to automatic braking/driver assistance, but would a camera calibration issue also cause limp mode and eventually a persistent check engine light?
Has anyone with a Mazda 6 / 2.2 Skyactiv-D experienced something similar, where several systems throw warnings together and restarting temporarily clears them?
I’m especially interested in hearing whether this ended up being related to the DPF, EGR, turbo/boost system, sensors, or something else, rather than the camera itself.
Thank you very much in advance!