For those who’ve done it already:
What CVT fluid are you using?
OEM Subaru High Torque CVT fluid or an aftermarket alternative?
What front and rear differential oil viscosity/brand are you running?
Any long-term experiences or recommendations?
Would appreciate hearing what’s worked well for you, especially for higher mileage Outbacks. Thanks!
I finally replaced my 2002 forester with a 2018 outback from a dealership a few years ago. I was really looking forward to having a newer, more reliable car, but in the 2.5 years since I've had it, I've spent nearly as much on repairs as I spent in the entire 10 years I had my forester.
First, I learned that the previous owner had already had to replace the head gasket.
Next, I had to take my car in for water leaking from behind the glove compartment during rain (and to have carpets dried - they were sitting in standing water from the leak)
Next, the touchscreen delaminated (which I learned is a very common problem). Subaru was willing to pay for some of it, but I was still on the hook for $1500.
Next, the vapor barrier inside the passenger door failed and more water leaked all over my floor. The mechanics told me that it was likely installed incorrectly.
Now the volume knob is glitching.
I'm starting to feel super frustrated and wondering if I should just replace the car. The point of upgrading was to have a car I'd have to worry about LESS, but if these first few years are any indication, things aren't looking great for this car.
Anyone have any advice or knowledge about 2018 outbacks?
EDIT: The comments have reminded me that I forgot something! I also had to reupholster the driver's seat after it ripped in several places, which I assumed was a fluke, but now the same is happening to the passenger seat. Should also mention that is currently has less than 90k miles.
The windshield on my 2026 Subaru Outback has developed a crack from a chip impact. Subaru dealers in Toronto, Canada, are quoting over CAD $3,000 plus tax for the repair. This seems excessively expensive to me, as they are charging $2,250 for the glass, with an additional $650 for installation and recalibration.
Is this a standard charge? I tried a local windshield provider, but they don’t have the stock since it’s a new vehicle. If I choose to go with a third-party provider, can you recommend a reliable brand?
Anyone got recommendations on a good online salvage yard for Subaru specifically? The trim piece over the rocker panel on my Outback is broken and the odds of me finding one at a u-pull salvage yard around me (if they even still exist) is slim to none. TIA
I was checking my oil and noticed that I'm clearly missing a fastener. Looks to be some kind of flange bolt. If somone would be so good as to tell me what size it is, that'll save me a trip - I could go to the stealership and get them to give me the info so I can go buy it elsewhere (because who wants to pay their prices!) or one of you kind folks could just, you know, tell me...
Thanks so much
I’m sure going to miss this beauty! It has been a great car!
But I just bought a 2020 Forester and don’t need this one. I hope she goes to a good new owner.
(For the mods: not selling my car here on Reddit. Just sharing the love of my car.)
Every time an in car message pops up. I see a post on here about how it’s annoying that you’re being marketed to your vehicle. SiriusXM is offering a way to opt out of the in Vehicle messaging. So I wanted to share this for anyone who wanted to opt out now before the free Sirius xm event starts on 5/21.
My 2010 Outback just reached 200k miles. I was just out running errands and getting food for the family. No fancy adventure to hit this milestone.
Is there a center jack point at the front that I can access with a hydraulic floor jack?
Since my car has the lower engine bay cover, the typical skid plate jackpoint isn't accessible.
AI told me that there is a front cross member just behind the rad but I think that's BS LMAO
Hoping there's somewhere I can jack up the front of the car, slide to jack stands under the pinch welds, and then remove the engine cover and get to work. (I. E. Don't have to remove the engine cover to expose the front cradle / skid plate...)
Found this 2018 3.6R Touring with a modest 36k miles. The same day it was posted, I called the dealer and put down a deposit, drove 3 hours to Austin from Dallas and I couldn’t be happier with this find. It still smells new inside even after having 2 owners this thing is pristine. No door dings or scuffs and the seats still look brand new, truly a treasure. Wish they still made this engine.
Hello all, today it was about 100°F outside. I started up my 2019 Subaru Outback. When I started the car, the climate system controls lit up and had the temperatures reading and fan speed showing like normal. Despite this, no air was blowing at all from the vents. It sounded like the motor for the AC wasn’t even running. After about 5 minutes of the car running, the fan slowly started to work again and the AC eventually was able to work at full blast. What does this indicate? Does the AC system need a recharge or is it possible there is something else faulty going on? Any feedback is greatly appreciated 🙏🏻 thank you.
Original battery placed on top on the left, replacement built in on the right (red + and - markings for better illustration).
Can anyone advise what best to do when the contacts of the new replacement battery are opposite of those from the original battery? It doen't seem reliable as the wires are too short and the clamps too wide for the European batteries.
I had posted a while back about searching for a replacement Outback, possibly the 2011-2012 versions with 3.6R (or 2.5i manual) setups. Unfortunately several appeared in the area, but when CarFaxing them, they had rebuilt titles, been in accidents with a non-rebuilt title with some sellers not being forthcoming about that info. So I passed on those.
Currently I found two 2015 2.5 Premium editions. What is everyone's input on these:
- 2015 Green 2.5i Premium 93k miles for $12,500. At a local Ford Dealership, $1000 processing fee (yuck), but is a single owner and in very clean condition. Originated from NJ and waiting on any info regarding rust on the under carriage. This one is 45 min away.
- 2015 Black 2.5i Premium 132k miles for $11,000. At a small time used car lot with $299 processing fee. Single owner from the southern VA/northern NC area with no rust. Very clean interior. This one is 2hr away.
At this point it's a matter of can I get my brother in law (my personal mechanic) to go with me to look it over before any negotiating/offers are made.
Those prices seem to be good, but wanted input here.
I just noticed that the wheel arch trim is loose above my front tire. Is it common for these to come loose? Are they easily fixed - or is it something I need to call the dealership for? I can see one clip that has come loose - but even if I push it in place, the trim still doesn’t sit flush against the car. I’ve included both front tires to see the difference. Any advice?
We have a 2016 Subaru Outback showing a big red streak on the touchscreen display. This is our 3rd Subaru. We've had touchscreen issues before, but they were different, and seemingly easily repaired. We just bought this 2016 and under state law we have 3 days to return it. So, I'm trying to figure out if this is serious or easily repaired. The touch response seems to work just fine. Any advice is welcome.
Thanks
I have a question about the correct CVT fluid for my 2017 Outback 3.6. I am scheduling a CVT drain and fill with a local independent Subaru shop that I have used previously for repairs. In the job quote they say they list the Subaru CVTF-II fluid for the job. My understanding is that they should use the Subaru High-Torque CVTF or equivalent for my CVT due to potential issues with slippage and failure. Is this correct or have I been misinformed?
My husband hit the left front tire on a curb and had to replace the control arm but it’s been noisy since and this thing is hanging down. What is it and can we fix it?
