u/AsstBalrog

I'd like a little extra brace support for installing an operator on an old wooden door, and I figured this might work. Curious about installers experience with these? Do they work smoothly without binding? Any other problems?

The bottom of my door bracket attaches to the hinge. I could attach the top by drilling holes in the top strut and running lag screws or carriage bolts into the door.

Attaching at the top strut seems to make sense, but an installer on this sub told me "Those doors are open frame with styrofoam inserts, then covered with Masonite, so there is wood at the top and bottom and a wooden stile in the middle."

So I'm kind of worried that this would put too much force on the top of the door. Should I attach at the top, or just run the bracket under the strut without bolts and let the hinge do the work?

https://scheerpost.com/2026/04/27/the-rise-and-fall-and-rise-of-american-publishing/

Continuing...I am not a professional, but I have a similar situation. Sectional doors. Extension springs. I have a double track system to keep the top section from hitting the ceiling (drywall on rafters). Maybe a 6" clearance.

I have considered various options, and have come up with what seems like a good solution. I have a Genie Silent Max 1000 opener, which has an enclosed C-rail belt drive system. This rail only sticks down about 1.5 inches, and the trolley is entirely internal, so it will clear the door in the horizontal position.

As far as the low clearance at the front, some sort of Super Sneaky type hinge would likely solve your problem--used with an opener, this allows the top panel to "flop" backwards before it starts to rise, so it avoids the ceiling and the need to make such a sharp turn.

In my case, I don't need to purchase SS hinges, because I can just remove the top track in my existing double track setup, which allows the top panel to flop back in a similar fashion. To improve horizontal clearance, I'm going to remove the top roller from the hinge, which will allow the hinge assembly to "lay down" flatter horizontally.

Here are a couple of videos that might help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnNTZGfz__8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H353IbKvnsw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8iBBaeTj_w

In hindsight, I have probably been overthinking the difficulty of this install. Initially I contacted two local Garage Door companies, and neither was very interested in doing this--one said that "low headroom installs cause problems and people complain."

However I posted my plans to r/garagedoorservice and got positive feedback. (BTW I would recommend posting your inquiry there--it's a much more active sub, and a lot of professional installers post and comment there. Very helpful.)

Finally, one more option: If you have a drywalled ceiling, it's possible to cut a slot for the rail (last picture, not my garage).

Best.