u/Atma-Darkwolf

I see lots of 'go options click skins' etc, but I have multiple skins downloaded(following the advice) and am triyng to increase scale. I can increase font size of all but the main window(which is like 1 inch wide by 1/2 inch tall on my monitor, buttons are a few pixels wide) and would like it to scale to resonable size on 4k monitor, but I cannot find how...

Not helping that the options menu is about as tiny. All other aspects (IE playlist, etc) I can resize, but the options and the main window I cannot. Can anyone help me out here?

New pc, never had this issue before, at least not this specific.

Now and again, videos simply just freeze during playback. The UI/program is responsive enough that I can open settings, click things, can press(or use hotkeys) for stop, pause, etc, can fullscreen/windowed, etc. IE the program itself seems to work fine, just video is frozen at the spot it locked up at(I can click to go to other section of video but it won't play until I close and restart video)

Does not lock up again at the same spot (if it even does) -seems random WHEN it does.

Does not seem to matter what drive (external or internal, SSD, M.2, HDD, etc) and does not seem to really matter WHAT video is playing either. I have not been able to match it to another activity - At first assumed was due to it trying to play on the drive I was also running torrents, and that the drive somehow was at it's read/write limit, but moving videos to another drive and playing from there still results in the same issue...

And ransom protection (or controlled folder access) is also not the cause either since even when I disabled or enabled it, I still had it happen.

So hoping someone has a possible fix (with the above) - again, is not like other freezes I've noticed (where u sometimes get video clipping out due to drive at limit, with artifacts in video till it clears up, etc) this is a simple hard freeze(as if u paused video) but it will NOT start up again until u close vlc (or can even 'fix' it by just 'opening' the same video again in current player window)

One thing that is notable about this when it happens, is the 'continue playback ' option does NOT appear when this happens (upon starting video again). Unsure if that helps key into the issue or not...

Firefox, librewolf(which is just fork of firefox) have issue. Shows incorrect spellings, but right clicking the offending misspelled item does NOT give spell check options (does not even have the 'spell check' option showing, more on that in a sec) and shows a right click context menu I would expect to see on NORMAL websites without any place u would type (normal text body of website for example)

Right clicking on any other area (where u have yet to type) in the email body shows the proper context menu with the 'spell check' option(which is enabled) so the right-click menu does work, just not when clicking actual typed out text.

Old system never had this problem, only on new build, only difference I can gather is old system did not have windows to 25h2 (I think it was stuck at 23h2) and new system has onedrive, copilot, and most other microsoft bloat disabled/removed before actually installed windows. (doubt this is the cause but is afaik the only real difference between the systems)

Saw others 4-7 years back, with same issue, but original post deleted without any solution, so guessing either was a super simple fix they found themselves, or somehow breaks a rule?

Edit, just for experiment I took random text body with obvious spelling issues and copy/pasted it into mail body, and THAT pasted text CAN be spell checked with proper spelling suggestions upon right click. But the original text (with spelling issues) does NOT get this same r-click context menu.

I have the hero X870E crosshair mobo and it has a SlimSAS port, and I was curious, is there any way I could utilize this slot to add a sound card or anything (other than another drive or drives)?

Just curious cuz the other x16 slot is pointless (populating it shares bandwidth with the other slot, making the 2nd slot useless if I want to run the GPU at full speed)

I looked around, but all I could find were the reverse (IE the m.2 slot to sas port converters) and I think I want/need the reverse (the SlimSAS to a pci-e x4 daughter card?) But even if I found one that did what I want, would it be viable for anything OTHER than more ssds?

Thanks for advice.

Can you set it up so that it will pick 'Forced - eng' or if that is not listed, Forced(english) (and so on) ? I have attempted with just forced but it hardly ever works(defaults to english, even if audio is english) and I have to manually switch it to forced. I am also wondering if it is specific to how it is formatted (Some are just 'forced - English' while some others are (Forced) English, or [Forced - English] or Eng etc -(you get idea) and the question is, can I just put a comma after and list a whole slew of possible ways it can be formatted, and it picks the 'first' on the list that the file has attached? (I am unsure if I am asking properly) but - will :

Forced-English, (Forced) english, Forced Eng, Eng(forced) etc work and will it pick 'Eng(forced)' if that is the only one listed?)

Got a z906 recently, and I cannot seem to get it to match my old logitec 5.1 surround system(which was quite dated, like from 15+ years ago) - z906 seems to have some kind of 'enhancement' to attempt to make ANY audio played though it simulated to sound like theater sound...when it is not.

Though even when I force it to run stereo (2.0 or 2.1) it has the effect, not as bad(dialog is easier to hear but issue is still there) and I cannot find a way past it. I have compressor set in vlc to mitigate a good deal of the problem, but even with that (and the equalizer AND with normalizer) the audio just seems.. wrong...

Not sure where else to go with this, after noticing the issue on a 2nd pc (trying to help build a pc currently) I noticed the 'thick boomy' effect is there too (and that computer has nothing but the very basic install of realtek audio and was running only 2.1 or 4 speaker setup, no rear speakers)

I am kind of regretting the purchase at this point, with how much issue I am having with audio problems, and am tempted to just go back to the old setup (that honestly, was far better than this, not as loud, but did not have this 'fake' boomy '3d' effect that muffles the center channel even when it is forced into 2 chan, dialog audio is ALWAYS muffled and music, action, etc is blasted)

I just do not know what steps I can take at this point and was wondering if anyone has a similar issue.

Monitor is great except for one nagging issue, that I cannot seem to fix or find a work around.

Every now and then, randomly, (so far) never when actually IN a game, the screen goes black (as in if it was shut off) but it does not 'lose connection' (IE the 2nd monitor does not suddenly become main, anything on primary - this - monitor continues, etc) for a few seconds, then comes back. The time it happens is random, except it is never in a game, (At least not yet, only had display for a week at this point)

I have tried swapping out DP cables (tried the one it came with, and 3 others from 3 different manufactures that worked with my other 4k monitor without issue) different ports on GPU, running monitor alone(disconnected 2nd monitor) - ran with 2nd monitor to see if the issue was the 'primary display' - tried 4-5 different HDMI cables(the one that came with it, and 3 other random ones I found)

In settings I have tried toggling every option on and off (well turn something 'on' and wait till next 'flicker' then go back in and revert that setting and enable another, etc) - Made sure the proximity sensor was off(it was off since I got it, have not had it on except to enable then disable it)

At this point I am afraid It may be a 'return only' thing (and since I cannot seem to get in touch with ASUS support - keeps saying the S/N is wrong - ) I may just return it, but other than the weird random flicker (can be a few minutes apart or hours apart) the monitor is beautiful. I would love to find a fix for this without returning it if that was possible.

So longshot, came to reddit.

Thanks ahead of time for reading, and if u HAVE had this issue and found a fix (plenty of sources on net say it was the firmware, which does not seem to be the issue since I have updated it after the first event) please suggest anything else I could try before I finally decide to send it back.

I tried googling but all results in 'both' results(IE enable or disable them together) but My question is, How would one disable the wifi but KEEP the bluetooth enabled. (Or are they both coupled together and I would need to find an alternative way to get bluetooth?) - and if I must rely on something else, is there a valid option (IE Not pci- card slots since the board only has 2, and if u enable the 2nd gpu slot, it reduces the first down to 8x)

4k monitor, set to 175% scaling, but (unlike other programs) qbittorrent ignores it, and text is extremely tiny. I have tried all the fixes I found (compatibility, Change high DPI settings) with every option and every combination of options enabled/disabled, and nothing has ANY effect on the text size at all (So all I can figure is something is blocking any changes to this specific program...) but I am at a loss as to what could be blocking it. Esp since OTHER programs all seem to properly accept the DPI change (going from 1440p monitor set to 125% to a 4k @ 175%)

So can anyone point to another thing that may lead me to a solution here? Appreciate it, thanks.

Just had my 26TB external.. fail? Like it suddenly was not recognized by windows, does not show in disk management, light still turns on, can feel it spinning, I get the 'device connected/disconnected' sound when I take it out and try other usb ports, and device manager shows 'USB attached SCSI (UAS) Mass Storage Device' listing(although now it has the yellow triangle + ! 'problem' icon)

Tried different power and USB cords(had another similar external HDD from before so have cables from that) and same thing as first paragraph, they 'read' as in computer knows something is attached or removed, and device manager shows the mass storage device, but disk management does not show the drive.

Issue is (and why am here) is this is the 2nd time this has happened, and is always the day after a long write session backing up files - works fine until I try to start the computer again, then drive just.. vanishes. Last drive did same thing after I backed up that one to this one (and if i remember right a few years back the drive before THAT one did the same, failing after backing it up to the 'new' drive)

So question is, how would one go about recovering it? If even only to just copy the files(and there is a lot, is likely 20+TB of data on it) over to a new drive, AND can anyone suggest to me a large external HDD that WON'T fail this way? (I feel the point of external storage is to back up data, and if it fails this easily...) - This drive is barely 5 months old, so am really annoyed (The last one was 4-5 years old before it failed so I wasn't so annoyed with it) - worse off is this time the backed up data is NOT saved anywhere else. If I cannot recover it this time, it's gone, for good.

Issue is the cabinet i build around the pc case has dropdown shelf, but to make room for the UPS under the pc setup, I had to raise the shelf up an inch, which results in about 1/2 inch of space at top- and pc exhausts air into this gap. I am wondering if this will cause any issues (The sides, back and front of the cabinet is open so air can flow freely out all 4 directions, but there is only half inch space between top of case and bottom of the top shelf of the cabinet)

Wondering if there is some known hard limit of needed space for decent airflow (Again, outside the case) - I can drop the shelf down another inch(maybe 2, if I build the case back around the ups) but max space I think I can get at top of case/under top shelf of cabinet is about 2 inches max..)

I do know u don't want to push a pc against the wall in the corner, but unsure if this is the same type of issue(esp considering that air flow will not be impeded for the 4 directions after leaving case, just the gap between top of case and top shelf)

I am just wondering, before I take off with it, is there any sensible reason not to mount the fans under the bracket(as opposed to ontop of it like manual shows) - I have them mounted under it, and have wiring out (no motherboard yet, waiting on ram before I can finish) and the fans spin freely, but I cannot find anywhere in manuals or otherwise, as to why they are not shown/or instructed to mount under it. I feel like there is something I am missing with the placement.

Apparently, the numpad will reset and force audio (Windows or otherwise) to 68% if I go above or below by more than 10% - Does not matter HOW I adjust volume - IE with knobs, on either it, or my GMMK Pro board, or using direct windows audio controls, it always resets back to 68% after a second. If I unplug the numpad, the issue does not repeat but as soon as I connect the numpad back it will reset and 'hold' the volume at 68% - Even if I set the volume 'base level' in core settings, it resets that too back to 68%.

I have no idea if anyone has ever had this issue or not but really hoping SOMEONE has had it happen and found a fix... :/

I have 2 keyboards and 2 numpads (2 of them are 8k polling boards, other 2 are just gmmk pro and pro numpad) and I wanted to see if I can do what I am doing with the gmmk pair with ysplitters, but currently the one I am using, now and again I get a 'device disconnected' sound (everything still seems to work properly, and i do not notice them losing led or connection but still..)

I was wondering if there is a decent ysplitter concept to connect keyboards and/or mice to a pc that won't hamper the data transfer the board needs (or mice+keyboard) and was wondering if anyone lurking here has experience with something can point me to one of decent quality(Ie not like the one I have which seems to want to reconnect now and then)

I want a board that does not share many resources between sata and m.2 (I want min 3 m.2 on board if possible, all used, and at least 6 usable sata while all 3 m.2 populated) and - Other than that - is there any point going with some of the more pricey x870e boards, or is a plain x870 good enough for the job?

What would be good suggested boards for the above(I have yet to decide if I want the 9950 or the 9800, but either choice will be x3d and yes, will be mostly for gaming, although I will do a fair amount of video editing and some streaming)

Charge was for 123.xx - I had 50.xx in the account (paypal balance) which it took, and charged the remaining 73-ish to the bank, but it ALSO charged the amount that I had in balance to the bank too.

Problem should be an easy fix, so I called (actually phoned) paypal and the customer service guy saw the issue, but instead of fixing it he decided to make the issue a LOT worse by 'charge back' the payment, which at the sellers site, ended up being a frozen order and locked account due to security reasons, and I've been 'force logged out' of paypal twice now since this happened earlier today.

Now I have supplied them all info (including original receipt, showing actual charge, the paypal records,showing it used paypal balance and charged the remaining 73-ish to bank, and the bank records, showing these 2 charges, along with OTHER paypal charges also placed today that had no problems) and I think giving them full proof / evidence that the issue is not due to my mistake or the sellers, but fully upon paypal, was when they issued the charge back (which lead to the locked account and frozen orders)

Now I wonder at this point, other than sitting on my thumb and waiting for it to fix itself, how would one normally go about something like this. It clearly is paypal's system making an honest mistake, which should have resulted (after a human placed eyes on the problem and saw for themselves the issue) in a swift fix, but has escalated so far beyond (I could have simply canceled the order as soon as I noticed the mismatch and redone it later, but felt that this would be something that paypal would want to be aware of... mybad...) but now due to the order being frozen, and the account being locked(I cannot place or modify orders, but can still navigate the website) I am stuck waiting on paypal to 'decide' if it was an issue or not (And I think the customer service guy getting annoyed with me and telling me to calm down didn't help much...)

So what would u guys do if a similar situation happened. What CAN I do at this point? (Other than wait?)

I have idea but want to know if it is feasible. I am not quite sure the length of tubing on this, never having owned any Arctic AIOs before(but have owned corsair AIO's) and want to know, roughly, the length of tubing, and/or if I can replace said tubing to extend length, and if so, is it wise to attempt a bottom mount (As intake, with filter) with sides (4x120mm) as intake too (or should I put the aio on the side as intake and use 3x 140 at bottom to help keep GPU cooler?)

Best case I have is to prevent as much inflow that is not covered by filters, and with both previous builds, I found the gpu suffered and could get hot (not dangerously so, but hotter than I'd like) and would like to try a setup with a clean, fresh air hitting both cpu AIO and also allowing the GPU clean/fresh airflow as well - Current case is bottom and front as intake, top and rear as exhaust, with a very slight lean on the intake to keep case positive pressurized and keep out dust - which has worked marvelously so far - 3+ years and I've never cleaned the inside, and still to this day I cannot see any dust buildup inside, front and bottom dust filters collect a fair bit of dust, but keeping them clean isn't a huge deal. I would like to emulate this success with new build as far as able, but, as said, want to try to give a slightly better 'clean air' access to gpu.

The PHANTEKS NV9 case has one advantage this one does not, and that is side mounted grill and fan mounts (either 4x 120mm without any obvious gap, or 3x 140mm with a large gap under/above the fans) - so idea was to either put the aio under (so it draws air in and then feeds the hot exhaust into gpu, not ideal) or on that side and find some way to cover the extra gap a 420 would leave. (Then fill all other fan spots with 140mm fans)

So rolling back to original question, how long are the tubes on the ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 420, and if not long enough to reach either spot, can u easily replace the tubing with longer tubes? (Or additional followup silliness, can u chain a 2nd radiator into it and run a top/side radiator aio chain and let gpu have all the bottom intake air?)

Thanks ahead of time for any interest in post.

I am asking this due to being wary about 'cheap ram kits' sold on amazon (and no they not cheap lol, but are cheaper than many others) and after being stung in the past, I want to know what kind of return guarantee you have, if the following hypothetical situation(which is something I had to deal with in past with another seller)

If for example you was able to snag a cl28, ddr5 6400mhz 96gb kit on amazon, and timings were all listed in the product page - but the received ram was a different kit with exact same housing (IE in my example in past it was a pair of Corsair Vengeance sticks, 2x32gb kit, years ago, ddr4) and the kit I got wildly mismatched the product i actually paid for, but I was refused refund/return due to me having opened them already(and I had to pay another 15dollars to have them shipped back)

After having been burnt like that, I am very careful about purchasing ram on amazon, but with prices being utterly freaking nuts the last few years(and no real chance they will drop down to normal prices before that AI bubble bursts) I want to know if anyone has had issues in the past....

So if I purchase a kit of 2x48gb (cl30, 6000mhz, specific model listed on product page matches the expected timings, BUT they are priced quite a bit LESS than all other kits, even exact same kit by another seller... although it does list 'ships by amazon' (Which in the previous case, was also the same, was 'shipped' from amazon but was not 'fulfilled by amazon' which until this, thought they were the same) - so If I buy it, and find that it is a diff kit (not the one advertised, but one of the junky-ish 40cl bad timing kits) can I get a proper full refund, or are you boned the minute you pop open the package?