u/Busy-Perspective663

(Images attached) I have made a cricuit in which an ESP32 controls 2 electric motors via IRL546NPBF Mosfets. The ESP32 is Seeed studio Xiao C6.

https://preview.redd.it/dtbmvaap0dkh1.png?width=2048&format=png&auto=webp&s=de1e57d9ab074369efd9902695701ea7926ac855

As you can hopefully see on my photo, the connection is VBUS 5.02V -> Motor (max 4.8V across terminals when working) -> mosfet drain. The source is connected to ground. The gate is connected to gpio with a 22K ohm resistor to ground. In the real circuit I will also include a second resistor between gpio and gate to protect the ESP32. The gpio on high is 3V.

The issue is that the mosfet is always on, regardless whether the gate is connected to a gpio (high or low), VBUS or ground. Though, the motor is faster when the gate is at higher voltage - I tested a simple script where gpio 1 alternated between high and low every 2 seconds, the motor changed speed.

While the photo may not be the best, I checked whether all connections are there with a multimeter.

I do need to use a mosfet, a I plan to use pulse width modification with this setup.

I dont know the exact rating of the motors, because they are kind of scrap material, but they arent damaged in any way. I know that the motors use 150mA, the VBUS pin can provide a maximum of 500mA.

If you need to know more, please tell me.

Here are some important screenshots of the mosfets documentation:

https://preview.redd.it/jo13r9hi1dkh1.png?width=546&format=png&auto=webp&s=d4962bb6e0ebfc31fc47b89d83aac558bac1c3a8

https://preview.redd.it/mlqbn9fk1dkh1.png?width=1066&format=png&auto=webp&s=2ce9d933d5fcc1003c104ba28ee1e33d0e75b817

https://preview.redd.it/430o9e6v1dkh1.png?width=1059&format=png&auto=webp&s=16643f4ee9f3a5f75b23c622ee5420b72fb5b520

As you probably can tell, I dont know much, hence posting here.

SOLUTION: The indicator leds that I have added between gpio and gate have blocked the ability of the mosfet to turn back off. Now it works. Thanks for the help

Today I started having an issue where when I closed all instances of IDE, all of my boards would dissapear. Their libraries, examples and the option to choose them for the COM port would be gone. I have only installed the Espressif ESP32 package, and this is how it looks like when the issue appears:

https://preview.redd.it/dbk8dshtozih1.png?width=691&format=png&auto=webp&s=55e53d047a9fd8cfd4e8ddbf3b823352910e7480

I havent really found a solution yet. They just sometimes reappear, conveniently when I wanted to post here previously, but the issue was gone. I am not sure, but this may have started happening after I manually deleted a library from the documents -> arduino -> libraries folder. I have already completely reinstalled the IDE app following arduino support`s steps.

I really wanted to code though...

The json is still in the arduio15 folder

The boards are there for a split second

https://preview.redd.it/gxckvbm3uzih1.png?width=769&format=png&auto=webp&s=acd3cd617230296353a1ac4b88d8660e9b321c21

SOLUTION: U1's profile in original orca slicer was made incorrectly and produced issues. To fix this you need to copy all gcode from the printer settings in the Snapmaker U1 printer profile in Snapmaker Orca over to the original Orca.

Ever since I had gotten my U1 I had problems with stringing. I have written a support ticket and it came down to the causes being moisture and model geometry. It is true that most of my filaments are wet, or at least moist, but none of my other printers (Creality K1 max, Bambu P1S, Bambu A1 mini) have problems of this severity. Even at 190C Esun Pla+ is stringing to an unacceptable degree. Also quite weird is that retraction amount does not seem to change enything - I am attaching a photo of 3 retraction tests; from left to right: 190C, 220C, 230C; retraction amounts are from 0mm to 2mm - as you can see, the amount does not change stringing. I will definitely start drying the filament (once I buy the equipment), but even fresh filament exhibits strings quite a bit (I know that it isnt perfectly dry in the original package, but still probably dryer than a roll left outside for a bit).

https://preview.redd.it/ycjed6ap3mdh1.png?width=2048&format=png&auto=webp&s=8ddcf9c88ffd5301b7a7fcb4bbedb96943f57ba5

Has anyone had this issue?

Here are some photos of a print I made with a month old Esun Pla+ orange at 205C, a somewhat old Polyterra Black at 205C and a brand new Polyterra white also at 205C. I do think it is obvious that the new roll strings the least, but overall I think that this print turned out rather mediocre because of the severity of the issue with the other filaments.

https://preview.redd.it/txdlglh14mdh1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=d3da4b67d2afc13b2c27f558e6be17b056d48cd7

https://preview.redd.it/2ye989424mdh1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=675ef4fc16562ab05f420964026e6868f07a347f

https://preview.redd.it/z70tzf134mdh1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=3b825c53862a088f01b679ec231c70e84c9b77f3

Disclaimer, I am very fresh to modding cars, although I do know a bit about wiring, I don’t know the ins and outs of this topic.

I am looking for a seamless way to play music in my 2008 Nissan Murano (Bose speakers). By seamless I mean without a need to go into bluetooth settings on my phone every time I get into my car (now that I think about it most bluetooth devices already do this). The first thing that came into my mind was adding carplay. I have seen that there are kits that add that functionality, mostly from China. I am quite picky about the responsiveness of those kind of devices (I hated the carplay on a 2024 peugeot 308) and so I am skeptical, considering they are not dirt dirt cheap. A carplay kit would also be nice because it would repurpose the screen that I simply don’t use. Its probably to impossible to recommend a single carplay unit because there are so many. But I would like some opinions about the user experience of those kits (is it responsive, refresh rate etc.).

Then I thought of something, the screen that is already in my car is decent (at least I think), and I don’t really need touch functionality (there is a nice selector wheel). Maybe I there is a kit, which would just be the computer without the screen? I do have plenty of space in the dash, as there is a 6 cd cd player (probably I can remove it).

Also, carplay does feel kinda overkill considering I am not sure if I will feel comfortable looking at the screen which is further away from the steering column than my phone holder. I wouldn’t say this if I could use my phone for maps and the carplay for something else, but apparently you can’t. Then again, the screen is currently useless. Unless there is some 3rd party/open source thing that could just display apple music on the screen (I am fine with tinkering and DIY project).

For now I have found that you can simply find a bluetooth to aux audio adapter, which will will work, and will be better than an fm transmitter while costing nothing (my car has an aux port). Furthermore, I can just buy it now as there are stores which have it in stock. Any way thanks for input.