I don’t feel like digging, can I pull the old line by hand or do I need a winch or my truck? Or will friction will be tremendous ? It’s buried about 10in deep.
How do I connect the new segment to the old segment so that I pull the new segment at the same time.
Cost basis erosion $25k in three months. Everyone here make it seem it’s a sin going under cost basis.
I’m a vocal person by nature, but right now I’m seriously questioning what I’m actually going to gain by voicing my real opinions about why I resigned from my job.
My life experience has taught me one consistent, brutal lesson: every single time I speak out, it doesn’t change a damn thing, and most of the time the shit just blows up in my face.
To give you the raw context, I resigned because:
• My boss is a ghost: I don't see how they have my best interest at heart at all. They have zero idea what I actually do on a day-to-day basis, provide absolutely zero direction, and commit to everything under the sun without thinking about the consequences for the team.
• The workload is breaking me: Following a company merger, I’ve inherited 2x the accounts.
• The culture is toxic: The new sites we absorbed are incredibly disrespectful, both to me personally and to our customers.
• Zero life balance: I am completely tired of working weekends and never being able to take a vacation.
I’m checked out. But now I'm facing the exit interview dilemma. Part of me wants to lay it all out, but the realistic part of me thinks it's a trap.
Should I just keep it completely basic and tell them I left because of the workload and my mental sanity? Or do I actually tell them the truth about the leadership and merger disaster? What would you do?
Industry: Supplier to the Automotive Industry, based in Michigan, small industry that you don’t want to burn any bridges.
This is a DIY project, neighbors are down. Fence is 6 feet tall not more, huge trouble if I don’t get the permit?
Only need a 6x6 fence to close a gap between trees and a house so I don’t have to look at neighbors.
I’m a DIYer looking for options to build a modern fence with a .5 inch gap between slats.
Any recommendations for the hardware kit? For slats considering Red Cedar 6 in wide.
Any other things to consider? No HOA, neighbors has sprinklers at lot line so I’ll have to build behind the heads. As far as lot line I will use country records as I heard surveys cost into the thousands???
I need to plant a dozen tree root ball approx 1.5 ft.
Looking for something powered or not - have no idea. I have to deal with clay, location SE Michigan Troy area.
Original owner plan to keep for another 100k miles more despite heavy oil consumption.
Is it a must the differential flush ? Also perhaps I’ll have them do the coolant flush and that’s it.
Is there a front differential?
Other services I plan to do myself, but prices don’t seem outrageous are they ? any comments from DIYers
In Canadian dollars.
SERVICE QUOTE
Good afternoon,
As requested please find below the service recommendations for your vehicle.
Tune up service (oil change, tire rotation, pollen filter, engine air filter, spark plugs, fuel and engine additives) $685+hst
Brake fluid service $189.95+hst
Haldex (rear differential) service $319.95+hst
Due at 150,000kms;
Coolant fluid exchange $239
I’m currently dealing with a grassy weed taking over about 25% of my yard here in SE Michigan. It grows twice as fast and twice as wide as my Kentucky Bluegrass, and since it’s a grass-on-grass crime, selective herbicides are useless.
For anyone else fighting this, I’m thinking the Glyphosate "Glove of Death" route.
The Strategy: The Glove and Wipe
Since these weeds are taller than the KBG right now, I’m using the "wicking" method to avoid killing the good stuff:
• The Setup: Chemical-resistant nitrile glove on the bottom, cheap cotton sock over the top.
• The Kill: Dip the sock in Glyphosate and "handshake" the weed blades.
Or what would you do ? Is this a good plan ?
Running the wheel and if assigned chipping away cost basis with short covered strangles under cost basis CCs.
Account heavily reliant on margin so don’t do me. Notionally I could take assignment paying margin
Weekly goal is 1%, goal includes $3,500 monthly contributions.
Weekly goal premium is about $2,500 to $5,500.
RDDT and HOOD.
Chipping away the cost basis like a mofo but yes no ideal adding to exposure with the short puts and under cost basis for the calls.
But reducing the cost basis by $20,000 in three months helps. Pl Ytd captures the premium received, pl open does not, delta is the $20k.
Yes my theta is ridiculously high $3k with $200k net liq value.
What’s the best deal for a high output battery, my battery developed a short and melted past warranty.
This? And return one of them ?
Dozens of extractors in Amazon recommendations sought.
Also looking for recommendation for oil filter at Walmart since it’s there where I get the VW approved oil.
And fu VW for not addressing the high oil consumption.
Hey everyone, looking for some tactical advice on a heavy position I’m currently managing.
For context, I’m running a $200k net portfolio and I’m currently sitting on a $50k unrealized loss (25% drawdown) split between two symbols.
Here is the setup:
• These bags started as Cash Secured Puts (CSPs) that got assigned.
• I believe in the long-term prospects of holding both companies, but the capital invested is a huge chunk of my overall liquidity, which is starting to make me sweat.
• To try and generate some yield while holding, I sold Covered Calls (CCs) against the shares.
• The catch: The strikes on my CCs are about 10% below my original cost basis. I collected about $3,000 in premium between the two symbols.
The Dilemma:
Earnings for both companies are next week. I’m trapped in a classic whipsaw scenario. If earnings miss, the bags get heavier. If earnings beat and the stocks gap up, my shares get called away below my break-even, forcing me to lock in a massive capital loss despite the underlying ripping higher.