I've been dreading doing a slave cylinder or the timing belt but man you get a few pieces out and these cars are dead simple, looks like they will be simple jobs.. Trans mount took me a half hour start to finish. 10 years on and I still love this car.
Anyone have an oem shift knob in good condition they would sell? Apparently the shift knob is sold as part of an assembly from ford..for $800+ CAD. I've tried a few aftermarket knobs and I just prefer the feel of the oem knob but my God I cannot find one lol.. not the end of the world but I figured someone may have swapped out the factory knob when it was new and threw it in a box.
Not sure how advertising laws are here but I feel It won't work in my favor lol.
Started happening recently. If the car sits for a little while then you turn the wheel right or left there is a small clunk in the front left corner. I've checked outer tie rod, feels tight. I'm thinking possibly strut bearings but I just wanted to see if anyone had something similar. Crawling under the front everything feels and looks good. Nothing noticeable for sure. Just can't pinpoint the noise.
Don't worry new ones just showed up. It's my second car, maybe 2000-3000km per year. Is my car worth more if my tires are original?..
Small town in Ontario.
Mnjikaning Fish Weirs was designated a national historic site of Canada in 1982. It is designated because: the site contains the largest and best preserved wooden fish weirs known in eastern North America, in use from about 3300 B.C. until the recent past; the site was cared for and used by the Huron-Wendat in the centuries immediately before A.D. 1650, and today the Anishinaabeg are stewards of the site; and for these two groups, this is a sacred place that represents an ancient and ongoing spiritual bond between the Creator and all living things. The spirits of people, water, animals, birds and fish are seen as all coming together in respect and gratitude at Mnjikaning.
I've had this problem for a few years and I should just throw a new caliper on it but budget is tight at the moment. Anyway, the lever where the handbrake attaches to the rear caliper, with the spring on the bottom. It never fully disengages. When I release the handbrake there ends up being a bit of slop at the bottom, I can push that lever back by hand. I've tried removing the 13mm on that lever assembly but I could not remove the lever itself. Any tips?
Hard to keep it clean here in the rust belt but it's been worth it. Can't picture driving anything else honestly. It's just so fun and cheap.
So the Smart Car main computer called the SAM is assembled inside a plastic housing. The circuit board folds in on itself. I have zero experience with automotive electronics, but I've seen flexible pcbs before but these feel different. They are quite thick. Very stiff to bend and hold their shape when you do. It feels pretty scary opening these up.
How careful should I really be with these? Can they be flexed more than a handful of times like a regular flexible circuit or should I keep it to a bare minimum? Sometimes fixing them it's easier to reinstall it and test, and take it back out but these modules are quite expensive and it feels like I'm going to snap it every time I have to open it. Does anyone else have experience with these?
2016 fiesta St. The ambient lighting on the dash above the glove box I believe it has a bad solder joint to the red connection. Blue and green and combos of those work fine but anything red doesn't light up. I can fix it no problem but how the hell do I remove it?
As always he killed it. Same with Puddles Pity Party, awesome voice, wicked presence. The entire show was well worth it, if you have a chance to go, please do. Question for fans though, do the shows ever get released to purchase or watch? We were directly in front of a camera operator at the back of the stands, so I assume the entire show is always recorded. would love to get the full show to watch some day again.
How involved was it? I have no problem turning wrenches, doing shit by the book. I've already done control arms, engine mounts, rear bushings and spring seats. I've always worked on my own cars but I've never done a timing job and this motor in particular seems a bit tricky. Any tips going in? I will be buying the full lockout toolset and doing the job properly. I've heard of people bending the locking tools though and throwing off timing.
This will be my third. First one from a local parts store being a "premium" part, lasted 13 months. Second one was the cheapest I could find due to financial problems at the time. Surprisingly it lasted about 2 years. Either way the original blower lasted me just under 7 years. Just bought an oem blower to put in. Not a very fun job but I'm getting pretty good at it lol
Quick flip through and I can tell this is going to be an incredible read. What else should I be adding to my collection? And Thank you Peter Merlin for making such a beautiful book.
In the coming weeks I plan on ordering and replacing the passenger motor mount and driver side trans mount with oem mounts (before anyone asks they are inexpensive and I prefer the feel of oem lol) anyway, any other car I've always replaced the motor mount bolts. My local Ford dealer is useless, couldn't find them. Checking the place I buy all my oem parts from and it appears they have the passenger mount bolts but I can find a listing for any others. Not even sure if it's what I need either. Does anyone have part numbers for the engine mount bolts? Or did anyone get away with reusing them?
The pads are rubbing slightly but there's a sound like a rock rolling around in the rim. No play in the hub but Ive been noticing a bit of noise.
So tired of the trash in this fucking town.