It 'mostly' works. Will open it up and lube the sprockets this weekend. Eject, Forward and Reverse are perfect, Play only works when pressed down 85%, when it's pressed all the way I'm getting nothing. Record is untested.
Swingline Automatic 66a
Personalized by A Trenk. Unfortunately the work I do seldom ever calls for the use of calipers. Still, a nice piece of history to have clunking around my toolbox. The angled twist-tighteners are unusual and can probably help the afficiando determine a narrower date range. My best guess is: 1870's.
I saw an opportunity this week and made the most of it.
I love these old "pocket staplers", they're somewhat difficult to find in black and it still staples perfectly.
Catholics consider escargot to be fish, and it comes in a metal tray, so this qualifies as tinned fish. My favorite version. Manicotti was for dinner, but I was still a bit hungry so I cooked these up too.
Watch out drive safe
Picked this up as a super cheap replacement for construction tape-measure calculations. Even though the batteries had expired way back in 2009, with a simple scraping out of the corrosion and wiping it down, tgis Casio came right back to life! It's puzzling that the design is such that you need to remove 6 tiny screws to access the batteries.
Odd damage, it's wavy which is similar to planchet cracks. Any thoughts?
For your viewing pleasure... In addition to the obvious, note what I deem to be raised shelf metal below the legend which has engulfed the (A)MERICA.
75cc 119. The rev is boring as the die had been replaced prior to the obv breaking.
If I print a single page at a time I have no issues, provided there's only one piece of paper in the printer. I've cleaned it, replaced all the rollers and pads and toner/fuser/drum, the final remaining problem I have is that the activator mechanism keeps running as shown in this paper feed video. How can I fix it so the activator mechanism stops once the paper is fed? I've read that there may be a sensor to clean off but I've searched with a flashlight and can't see any sensors beside the toner sensors on the side. Brother dcp 8065dn. Help!!!
On vamworld, vam 57 is noted with a large die crack over STATES. However a number of coins listed as vam 57 have no die crack, two as shown. Why is this? I've seen on numerous other varieties that with an added large crack, they append a letter to the vam. In this case it seems to warrant Vam-57 No crack, and Vam-57a With crack. Please illuminate me, if you may.
A very rare occurence here.
Even though this clearly has green pvc damage and a counterstamp on the neck it graded VF30. If anyone can explain this to me, please do.
Even the best of us make mistakes, this one was found at the PCGS coinfacts page for proof 1959 Jefferson nickels.
A row of books I keep at the ready for times I need to take a break from the screens. I bring batches home to swap out periodically, but this particular grouping has one connection among them, points for anyone who names it.
Here's a 78-s I just ordered off ebay and I love it. I'm additionally somewhat intrigued by the fact it may have a couple oddish chopmarks as shown. What do you guys think? I do see tiny chopmarks such as these on verified coins, so I deem it as having a small chance at authenticity. Value-wise, who cares as it's such an interesting vam that I'll finally be able to investigate further. Happy days ahead :)
2 Million and still going as strong as ever. Clean printing and no jams, merely requiring about $400 in replacement parts every 4 years or so.
I'm in a position to reacquire this coin I once owned. The ngc hologram is worn off because I carried it with me everywhere I went. If anyone has any leads on it, let me know and I'll buy it at a fair price negating any cut that Heritage or another middleman would take from us. DM me at any convenient opportunity. I'll travel to you in person and we can meet at a bank for a certified check payment.