Features include: Dynamic Iris (for Max) Valerion ThunderBeat Sound System menu 8 point manual keystone AWOL Link Control New Medium EBL mode 3D frame packing half resolution fix Low noise mode New eye protection mode anamorphic 2.0:1 and 1.85:1 support
Basically der Internet verbrauch macht überhaupt keinen sinn, das einzige was ich gemacht hab waren ca. 160GB an Daten heruntergeladen, mehr ned, keine ahnung wo die 24TB herkommen. Bin eig. 24/7 mit nen UDP-VPN verbunden falls das irgendwo ein bekannter bug ist.
Rog Phone 9 Pro
Car keys
Grand Seiko SBGA 273
Bose TWS
Terminator M1
Smith Blade
Böker D2 knife
Spare Glasses
Esquire Deer Leather Wallet
Emergency Blanket
Pen
Tissues
Deodorant
Water Bottle
Towel
Various sized band aids, quick clot and painkillers
Xtar PB2SL V2 + 2x Molicel P50B
Israeli Bandage
Compact Umbrella
CAT Tourniquet
My whole story with Gout basically started at 17ish. It was exactly like you expect it to go, extremely painful, staying in bed the entire day, and having no idea what was happening, i went to a doctor, he prescribed me Seractil for the pain, and that was kindof it for the first time.
To the surprise of no-one, the gout flares came and went at completely random intervals, i'd guess around once a quarter?
I think over the course of the next few years i had two MRIs and one xRay, and the only thing they found out was "fluid in the joint". That's it. At some point i thought about giving up, i had multiple gout flares where i didn't even bother going to a doctor anymore, i just took my 1200 to (rarely 1600) mg of Seractil a day and try to survive until it's over.
I got sent to all kinds of foot experts, at least two differnet physiotherapists, from foot exercises to shockwave therapy and whatever else you can imagine, obviously nothing helped.
Then, at 23 years old, i had one yet again, my right knee, it wasn't a super-bad one, so i got to my office-job with crutches and painkillers, and tried to work as good as i could, and something just snapped in me at that day, i'd say i'd get this fixed now no matter how many doctors and nurses i had to piss off.
So, after work i drove to the next hospital, told them my issue. They went to work, first an ultrasonic of my knee, nothing, they took me in (for the first time ever), 1-2 days later, MRI, nothing (at least nothing worth remembering). They told me they're thinking about a knee reflection, and said they are planning on doing it. On the day where it was supposed to happen, they say they'd cancel it, don't wanna do it. Nurse handed me my discharge papers, and i called my dad to come pick me up.
After i had called my dad, discharge papers in hand, doctor came back in and said they changed their mind, they're gonna do the knee reflection. That was the day my life changed. They took me into surgery, and besides the pain in my knee, it was just an amazing experience, people were friendly, i was brought to the operating room, i was doing smalltalk to the anaesthetist (super nice lady), last thing i remember after waking up was talking about my Motorcycle.
I think it was the next day, the doctor came in the morning and told me what he found, he basically said "So, i tried moving your knee while you were out, and i could fully bend it, your inability to bend it is a psychological problem, not a mechanical one (or sth along those lines, he made it sounds like it's good news), the other, far more interesting information, is that they found uric acid crystals in my knee, and that he diagnosed me with Gout.
From there on out i got the right medication, Allopurinol to take daily, a few others incase of a gout flare, my life basically normalized from one day to another (besides the obviously still ongoing gout flare that drastically got better with the correct medication).
The only real times i get a gout flair now is if i REALLY exaggerate eating meat (god i love meat) and/or if i happened to forget to take Allopurinol for a day. But even then, they're usually very light ones, and i can "feel" them coming, taking 25mg of Prednisolone and 1mg of Colchicin is usually enough to take care of the issue within a few hours. I often feel it coming at the evening, take the meds before bed, and by the time i wake up it's almost gone. From personal experience i'd say it takes around 6 hours to have a big noticeable improvement, going from limping to walking normally again.
Since i had my knee reflection 2,5 years ago, i had 3 (or 4? Honestly don't quite remember) instances where i had to take Prednisolone (6 tablets total), last one was this week, why i wanted to make the post. My long-term Uric Acid levels have been steadily declining, over the past year going down from 6,4 to now below 5,2 (last check was in April).
Als erstes vorweg, ich rede hier über den gesetzlich vorgeschriebenen der sich bei jedem Auto-Neustart wieder von alleine einschaltet, Fahrzeug ist ein Ioniq 6.
Gegen den optionalen Spurfolgeassistend hab ich überhaupt nichts, ganz im gegenteil, den mag ich sogar, aber jetzt zum Problem.
Dieses absolute Drecksteil von Softwarefunktion schaltet sich bei jedem neustart wieder von alleine ein. Wenns konstant funktionieren würde, würde michd as nicht mal stören, aber das teil ist so extrem inkonsistent dass es einfach mehr gefährlich als hilfreich ist.
Auf ner normalen straße mit schönen Bodenmarkierungen funktioniert es sogar überraschend gut, aber sobald du auf ner engen landstraße bist? Absolute Katastrophe. Zum Glück schaltet sich das teil 80% der Zeit eh von alleine auf inaktiv weil es sich hinten und vorne nicht auskennt, das problem sind nur die 20% in denen es aktiv ist.
Ich hab den wagen jetzt gerade mal seit ca. 1,5 Monaten, und mittlerweile wollte mich das Auto schon fast 3x umbringen. Einfach so oft ist der Spurhalteassistent inaktiv, schaltet sich für ne sekunde aktiv, lenkt aggressiv/panisch nach rechts/links und schaltet sich danach sofort wieder aus, das hab ich jetzt schon mindestens 20x genauso beobachtet. Meistens is das einfach nur nervig, nur wirklich problematisch wirds dann wenn mir auf der Landstraße ein Traktor mit Mähwerk oder LKW entgegen kommt, ich auf den straßenrand fahr, und das Auto mich mit motivation direkt in den LKW reinlenken will. Es ist nicht nur dass ich es hasse, mitlerweile macht mir das teil schon angst. Ich hatte schon albträume davon wie mich das Auto in nen Traktor reinlenkt wenn ich es wieder mal vergessen hab auszuschalten.
Das Bipende Tempolimit teil ist ja kein problem, das macht sich ja wenigstens akustisch bemerkbar wenn ichs vergessen hab auszuschalten und pfuscht mir nicht ins fahren drein, aber der Spurhalteassitent? Der versteckt sich wie ne ekelhafte Campersau leise im letzten Eck bis wer auf der gegenfahrbahn daherkommt.
Hi everyone. If you have a non-Bose Ioniq 6 and have been considering an audio upgrade, you've probably noticed that most guides and parts recommendations are aimed at the US market. I recently completed the upgrade myself and wanted to put together an EU-focused guide with the parts I used, what worked, and the mistakes I made along the way.
First of all, let's start with prerequisites, things you need to have before you can start, the list is relatively short, so don't worry.
And that's already it.
Now for purchase links, there's already a lot of places where you can look up detailed tutorials, so if you're only interested in EU-friendly purchasing links, here's everything i used:
Plastic tool to help remove the door (You might already have this)
Alubutyl (There might be cheaper shops available, this one happened to have fast shipping, though they didn't send me a shipping confirmation for some reason)
Speaker wire adapter for door speakers
Speaker adapter rings for door speakers
I'm gonna be sorry for the lack of images in the post, i wanted to take images, and i did take some, but i was so in the flow of upgrading that i just kindof forgot about it. I don't think there are many useful things shown in the images i took anyway.
First thing i did was to take the 10mm hex socket to disconnect the battery, better safe than sorry, but you don't really have to do this, it's a one minute job, so it doesn't hurt.
Next was to remove the the single screw at the top of the door, it's hidden behind a small plastic flap. From there carefully shove the plastic wedge tools around the outer edge until you start to hear it pop open, might be more/less difficult, at least for me the right hand side door popped open noticeably easier than the left hand side door. Lift the door up and disconnect the wire and the door handle linkage. Put all the pull tabs that are still stuck in the door frame onto the plastic cover you just took off, and put it somewhere safe (i put it on my back seat).
Next unscrew the 3 screws the factory speaker is held in place, don't worry of it falling off, there's some very weak adhesive/sealing thing in there that keeps it in place, a light pull should get it off. Disconnect the cable, and be disappointed in the shittiest and lightest speaker you've ever gotten your hands on. It really was disappointingly lightweight.
Prepare the speaker rings next, they fit, but the three mounting holes are ever so slightly too close together, so you need to remove some material on the outside of two of the holes to mount it in the original position. I used an air die grinder, but anything that can remove plastic is usable to make the holes bigger.
Next step is to prepare all the surfaces with Alubutyl. I used it to create a seal between the door and the speaker rings, and the speaker adapter and speaker. Cut a few cm thick stripes off the Alubutyl and round off one of the sides by cutting parts off, this makes applying it easier without large overhangs, treat the Alubutyl as a seal to prevent air from leaking in and out.
After you did that, cut off relatively large sheets of Alubutyl and apply it to the inner door you can see through the hole where the speaker used to be, you can get surprisingly deep in there, this part takes by far the longest in the speaker install, but also heavily depends on how much effort you want to put into it.
After you've done everything, and mounted the speakers to the speaker rings using the screws that came with the speakers (they're a bit hidden, taped to the back of the box at the rear), connect the speaker wire adapters to the speaker, install the speaker in the car using the original screws, and connect the speaker wire. I wrapped some foam i had lying around for the speaker wire connectors to prevent it from making rattling sounds, get creative there.
Last step is to put the foam rings on the speakers, the outer diameter of the foam ring is larger than the outer diameter of the speaker, so there's gonna be some overhang, but it fits.
Finally you can put the car panel back on, make sure all the tabs are on the door part you removed, plug the connector to the door back in, connect the door handle mechanism, and insert it from the top, there's some plastic edge at the very top that needs to fit, makes mounting the door relatively straightforward and aligning the tabs should be easy. Don't forget about the screw below the plastic flap.
Removing the A-pillars was extremely frustrating, i couldn't find a good way to do it, i still don't know how to do it properly. First thing to do is is to take the rubber sealing gasket that sits between A-pillar and door and pull it out, it's just friction fit in place and should be easy to remove.
Next there should be a gap between metal and plastic at the top where you can put your fingers in, pull down until you hear something pop, might require a bit of force. Then the worst part of the whole process: There's this extremely inaccessible plastic connector at the top that keeps the A-pillar locked in place that's near-impossible to remove, sorry, i can't give any good advice here, maybe i'm just incompetent, but this was painful, if someone has a good way to do it, please share it in the comments, i have no idea, it was a struggle.
After you've managed to open that plastic connector, removing the remaining A-pillar is very easy, disconnect the speaker wire at the bottom, pull it out, and you're good to go.
A-pillar tweeters are easy to replace, unscrew the original ones, remove the connector from the factory speakers(i couldn't find a way to do this completely non-destructively, if you turn the factory tweeter around you see this white square from the connector around the black from the tweeter housing, shove a small screwdriver between the black and white part from the front until the black bends/breaks open allowing you to slide the connector out.), desolder the wires from the speakers, solder the connector to the provided crossovers, connect the corssover to the tweeters, and use the provided double sided foam-tape to mount the tweeters in the original position. I wasn't completely sure if this was enough to hold it in place, so i put a stripe of Alubutyl at the back of it to securely mount it. Same thing with foam around the connector as with the door speaker.
Putting the A-pillar in was relatively straightforward. That annoying little plastic connector at the top is 50x easier to get in than out, shouldn't be difficult.
For sound, everything in this world is subjective, and there's hardly anything where opinions drift further apart than HiFi Audio.
Obviously it's an improvement over the stock system, but not everything is 100% perfect, overall i really enjoyed the changes it gave me.
The biggest imperfection in Audio is that the soundstage drifted a bit to the right (or i'm just imagining it, i'll check again tomorrow hopefully unbiased). Easy to fix, go into your car settings, Audio, and there's a menu where the sound should be centered, putting it 1-2 clicks to the left made me in the center of the soundstage again.
Unfortunately i didn't check before i installed, but i think the new speakers are wildly more efficient than the stock speakers. I need to put the slider 6-7 steps to the back for the front speakers to be as loud as the rear speakers, i don't know how the sound balance is stock, i unfortunately forgot, but if you keep it center, and you sit in the rear, i couldn't blame you for thinking there are no speakers in the rear doors, PLEASE SOMEONE WITH A STOCK SYSTEM CHECK THIS, I'M DYING TO KNOW.
Most of the information i got was from some reddit post and the youtuber blackwatermotorwerks has been extremely helpful with everything i managed to find, unfortunately most of the content is US-centered, so finding available parts was relatively difficult. It looked like only doing the front speakers seems to offer the best sound for the least amount of money and effort spent. So i decided to only do the front 4 speakers, and leave the rear two stock.
Based on EU availability and the youtube content, i decided to go for the Hertz C165 speakers and Hertz C26OE.
The tweeters come with a high-pass filter, and the OE variant is easier to install than the standard one, while apparently having the same driver and internals, seemed like an obvious choice to me.
The only real thing i'm still not completely sure about is the mounting of the door speakers. The blackwatermotorwerks linked the following adapter in his video description: https://amzn.to/3oA0FNA
The amazon description said it's for a Ford F-150, so based on the information, i found the following adapter, which i hope works (it lists Ioniq 6 so it should be fine): https://www.tomzzaudio.de/Lautsprecherringe-Adapter-Halterungen-kompatibel-mit-Alfa-Romeo-Ford-Hyundai-Jaguar-Landrover-fuer-165mm-DIN-Lautsprecher
Next is speaker connections, i'm planning on just desoldering the tweeter connections and reusing it for the new tweeters, but for the speakers i found the following adapter: https://www.tomzzaudio.de/Lautsprecheradapter-2er-Set-auf-DIN-kompatibel-mit-Kia-Rio-Forte-Seltos-K5-Hyundai-Ioniq-Santa-Cruz-Elantra-ab-201
Unfortunately no-one is all too keen on showing the exact looks of the adapter when they used it, but it looked similar-ish, incase it doesn't work, soldering it is.
That leaves insulation. Since i'm already ripping everything off, i migh aswell do it properly.
First the foam rings, the shop i got the speakers from seemed to have fitting foam rings in stock:
https://www.ars24.com/zubehoer/daemmstoffe/27389/schaumstoffringe-16cm-fuer-lautsprecher-selbstklebend
So i decided to go with them.
For the door insulation i decided to go all-out. I found a shop that swells all kinds of insulation products, i ended up on this Alubutyl and Insulation Fleece combo:
https://www.alubutyl-kaufen.de/alubutyl/reckhorn-1-x-abx-2-mm-alubutyl-und-1-x-neu-dv-10i-daemmvlies-4-matten
It's 77€ including shipping so i hope it's worth it. Everyone so far seemed to skip on insulation Fleece and only went the Alubutyl route, so i hope this addition helps to remove some of the additional outside noise.
I got a few bits and pieces i didn't link explicitly, like some replacement door clips form Amazon incase i break some, or a plastic wedge removal tool for the door panels.
For reference, the in-car report gave me 15,3kwh/100km for today, which checks out I think.
Besides that, does anyone know what's included in the "Electronics" section and if there's some settings to reduce that?
Hi, first of all i don't like to purchase wallets online, for me they're the kind of thing i need to see and feel in person, for that i went to a local-ish shop that specializes on leather goods today and went to look at them, i looked at 15-20 different wallets and at the end i was deciding between two models. One of which brand i unfortunately don't remember, was around 50€, made from cowhide, the other from Esquire, made from Deer hide around 110€.
Both ticket all my boxes on what i wanted the wallet to be. Right size, good amount of card space, RFID protection, non-plastic mesh ID window and some among some other smaller features not worth mentioning.
My only remaining priorities now are long-term comfort and durability, which wallet is likely gonna point where?
I've got a 2023 Ioniq 6, its first registration was October of 2024, it was driven for a year and i got it recently from a official Hyundai dealership. I obviously asked the dealer "hey, can i have a SOH readout" and he agreed, came back with "100,0% SOH". I think ok, too nice to be true, there's no way an EV that's at least 1,5 years old still has 100% SOH, that dealer is shitting with me.
So i did the obvious thing and purchased a OBD2 device and used the Car Scanner app on android to connect to it. A quick connection later, all the readouts look normal, everything updates properly and how i expect, even while driving, nothing seems wrong, but battery SOH is also reported at 100% there. Before i forget to mention, the car has around 30.000km on it right now.
So either they absolutely babied the battery before i got it or there's something broken.
Update: Downgrading the firmware to 6.1.0 (6.4.0 also works, didn't try more than that) and enabling Dongle Mode fixed every single one of my issues, works flawlessly now. No idea why they would remove the only setting that fixed my problem......
Update 2: Apparently the AAWireless 2 really isn't happy if you set "Maximum Connected Bluetooth Audio Devices" to one in your developer settings (if you're connected to your cars bluetooth at the same time), i set that some time ago because i got annoyed of some bluetooth devices hijacking audio if i didn't want it to. After setting it to two or three and restarting my phone it worked even on the latest firmware.
I've been trying to get this bloody thing to work for an HOUR now, but it doesn't matter what i'm doing, this thing just won't do the very thing it's designed to do.
Not even the first setup worked properly. I just tried to connect and connect, and it won't launch Android Auto until i found some random reddit thread telling me to remove my phone from my cars bluetooth list, great, that got it to work (Hyundai Ioniq 6 btw).
Then let's try connection, i turned off my car, walked away, some weird behavior but ok, i'll take it. After some time everything shut off and it didn't try to connect to my phone again.
I walked back up to the car, turned it on, that thing desperately tries to connect, but it just keeps on blinking green and green like it's the only thing capable of doing.
Again, the ONLY working fix is to remove my phone from the cars bluetooth list. At this point i'm pissed.
I do some more googling, found a thread about a secret settings menu by tapping version number a few times, tried that bluetooth auto disconnect feature, but it felt more like a bandaid fix, basically making it so my phone forgets the car and i need to hit that accept button every single time i get in the car. No thanks, turn that shitty setting off again.
Back to square one. Keeps trying to connect somehow, keeps failing, and ONLY when i turn my car off the phone FOR SOME REASON manages to establish a connection and my phone telling me android auto is available while connected to the dongles WIFI. The absolute worst part of this? This happened while i started writing this reddit post on my PC. WTF?
I'll give up, i just wanted to rant, i am frustrated, if someone has a good solution please tell me, but otherwise i'm sending that thing back tomorrow. This thing so far was worse than worthless.
Image of a german Eurofighter Typhoon taking off during the 2024 Airpower.
I went through all my images and found a few good ones i didn't post/edit yet, so i thought i'd share one here.
For the nerds: 600mm; F6,3; 1/60 sec; shot on a Nikon Z6
Hi, ich will mir mein erstes e-Auto kaufen, im grunde will ich dass das Benutzen so ähnlich wie nur möglich vom ICE auto ist, als erstes vorweg, ich bin aus Österreich.
Meine Hauptprioritäten sind also ne Batterie mit der man ohne 3x Aufladen längere distanzen zurücklegen kann, allradantrieb da mein aktuelles Auto mit vorderrad antrieb in winter manchmal schon echt probleme macht, und ein nice-to-have wären noch schnelle Ladezeiten.
Mit dem bisschen recherche scheinen vorführer Hyundai Ioniq 6 aktuell so preis/leistungstechnisch am besseren zu sein, 77kw batterien mit 325PS, bekommst so um die 35.000€.
So grob drübergerechnet kommt mir der 35.000€ elektro nach 7-10 jahren günstiger als ein relativ neuer 18.000€ Verbrenner (insbesondere mit THG-Quote und ETS-2 und keiner motorbezogenen).
Ist das was ich hier vorhab ungefähr realistisch, sollte ich mir wrsl. doch ein anderes Auto holen.
Das einzige was mir etwas sorgen macht is dass ich das Auto kaum/schwer in ne garage stellen kann. Hoffe den e-Autos macht das draußen stehen nichts, insbesondere im Winter, wir haben oft viel Schnee (evlt. wegen Rost und so).
