u/IanMc192624

I legitimately need help tracking down the cause of this misfire. I replaced the head gaskets a while back, and ever since then it’s been running, but I get a misfire. I replaced the plugs, manifold gasket, cam and crank position sensors and today I tested the fuel pressure. It was at 40 PSI in the on position primed and ran at 36 PSI steady. I also replaced the injector O rings and caps to make sure those are sealing and not causing a vacuum leak. From what I tell there isn’t any raw gasoline in the fuel pressure regulator, but maybe I’m just not seeing it for some reason. The only code it’s throwing is the random misfire. I’m running out of ideas after today when I checked the fuel pressure. I just don’t want to keep throwing random parts at it anymore. I swear it’s in time, but I’m not sure how it would run if it was off by a tooth. I know that if it was way off it wouldn’t run at all. The serpentine belt tensioner is hopping up and down about an inch when it runs. I can post a video of it running if anyone thinks that would have a better idea. I just feel like I went through all the common causes of misfires in the 6VD1. I almost want to replace the FPR, but if it’s just more money down the drain without solving the issue I’ll be very bummed out.

So I was getting a P0300 code after doing a timing belt and head gaskets. I ended up pulling the timing covers back off and reset the timing. I wanted to make sure it cleared up the rough idle and started it for 10 seconds with the harmonic balancer off and just the large bolt. I ended up putting the harmonic balancer back on and try to do one more test start, but it ended up being a crank no start. I took it all back apart and checked the timing marks. It all lines up fine, so I’m lost on what could have happened. Does anyone have any ideas? It’s a 99 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L. I haven’t checked it the tachometer moves while cranking yet and it’s not throwing may codes at this time.

I posted on a Isuzu page on Facebook asking if anyone knew a person in Hawaii that sold Isuzu parts. I’m looking for a manual transmission for a 2WD rodeo. I got a comment on the post recommending “Torqenix auto parts”. They’re allegedly located in Texas and have a WhatsApp. I feel like it might be a scam, but I figured I would ask to see if anyone has actually used them before or heard of them.

I posted on a Isuzu page on Facebook asking if anyone knew a person in Hawaii that sold Isuzu parts. I’m looking for a manual transmission for a 2WD rodeo. I got a comment on the post recommending “Torqenix auto parts”. They’re allegedly located in Texas and have a WhatsApp. I feel like it might be a scam, but I figured I would ask to see if anyone has actually used them before or heard of them.

This is a long shot, but is anyone on here from Hawaii and know of anyone who collects or sells Isuzu parts on any of the Islands? I’m looking for a manual transmission locally, but I have had no luck calling scrapyards on Oahu. If anyone knows a guy and can point me in the right direction that would be awesome.

EDIT\*

If you don’t know anyone, but are from Hawaii and have had bigger parts like transmissions shipped from the mainland, how much did you pay and how much of a pain was it?

This is a long shot, but is anyone on here from Hawaii and know of anyone who collects or sells Isuzu parts on any of the Islands? I’m looking for a manual transmission locally, but I have had no luck calling scrapyards on Oahu. If anyone knows a guy and can point me in the right direction that would be awesome.

EDIT*

If you don’t know anyone, but are from Hawaii and have had bigger parts like transmissions shipped from the mainland, how much did you pay and how much of a pain was it?

I didn’t really know how to explain this in the title, but I share a detached garage with my neighbors. I live in Hawaii, so it’s pretty much hot all year round. I have a 12,000 BTU portable Ac in there, but since the dividing wall doesn’t go all the way up I’m pretty much cooling my neighbors side as well. If I combine both our sides square footage, it’s right at the AC’s limit. What is a cheap but effective way to block the top of this wall? Is there a type of plastic that I could just staple up there? The only thing that makes it a pain is the studs on the roof. I’m just looking for ideas that aren’t permanent, but will keep the cold air on my side for the most part. I’m always in there working on stuff or my dogs hang out in there sometimes and I want it to be as cool as possible. Right now it’s probably about 75 in there, but I know I’m losing a ton of cold air just going right over the wall. Plus, if they decide to hangout with their garage door open it all just goes away.

So I just want to start this out by saying I live in Hawaii, so parts are sort of hard to come by. With that being said, I have been looking into swapping my Rodeo to a 5 speed manual. I have yet to come across an MUA5 being that they only came in Isuzu vehicles. I have come across AR5’s in wrecked Chevy Colorados. When I found out about this swap I was pumped about it, but then once I read about needing a bellhousing from a very specific Isuzu trooper year range I felt like I was back to square one. If you find an AR5 from a Chevy Colorado is getting the bellhousing from the trooper the only way to get it to bolt up to the 3.2L? Is there any type of adapter plate or anything that people have done to make it work? S your only shot of finding one just scouring Isuzu sites to find someone selling one? f

The serpentine belt tensioner is held on by a small nut and a T50 Torx bit. The Torx bit and what you use to compress the spring on the tensioner. I went to put my tensioner back on and the part the tensioner bolts to stripped out. Is it part of the alternator bracket or straight to the block? I need to rethread it, but if by some chance it doesn’t work can I just get a new upper alternator bracket? It’s hard to tell if it’s part of the block or the alternator bracket. I don’t know how it even stripped out. I took it off while disassembling it to replace the head gasket and it came out fine when I took it off. Then I’m wrapping everything up about to put the belt back on and when I went to tighten the Torx bit the thing just wouldn’t grab anymore. It’s possible that the last people to take it off cross threaded it into what i assume is aluminum. I believe it’s an M10x1.5, but I’ll check at the hardware store with the bolt. While I’m here, does anyone know how to get your account unblocked on Planetisuzu? I asked a question on there and got banned for “spam” with literally no way to contact anyone to dispute it.

I’m throwing the heads back on my V6, but it’s tough to gently plane it on the dowels due to the manifold studs on the head not clearing the exhaust manifold. Should I just ratchet strap the exhaust out of the way? Or is there some easier way I’m not seeing. It’s a 99 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L.

I found out I’m on an OML for Battle Staff. For anyone who’s been to the course, how was it? I honestly never thought I would end up in this school, but I definitely want to take advantage of the opportunity.

I’m currently 11 years through my career in the Army. I have about 9 more years until I can retire. I’m not 100% sure on what I want to do when I get out, but I have always been more interested in trades. Working on cars is one of my hobbies outside of work, but I don’t want to go into the automotive industry at 40 years old and would rather keep it as a hobby. What would my best move be education wise to get into the machining industry when I retire? I can’t go to a full time trade school while being active duty. Also, is it a good industry to get into with a late start? Considering I’ll be about 41 by the time I’m out. I’m originally from the North East, but plan on retiring in coastal North or South Carolina, so if everything worked out that’s where I would be working.

Long story short I dropped the heads to my 99 Isuzu rodeo off at the machine shop(6VD1). When I took them off and looked at the bottom side there was a stamp indicating someone had already took off 4 thou at some point. When I left the machine shop, I checked the repair manual and found out the max material removal for the heads is 7.9 thou. I got a call from the machinist saying he needs to take off another 5. That obv puts me 1.1 thou over the limit indicated in the repair manual. I checked a bunch of gasket sites for shims and oversized head gaskets, but I couldn’t find anything. This is a car that I drive 3 miles back and forth to work everyday. It’s not a motor that will see a ton of miles or stress. Will that 1.1 over make enough of a difference to justify calling a company and spending a bunch of money on a head gasket that’s maybe 2 thousandths thicker? Or should I just say fuck it and run it as is? I thought about finding some used heads, but I live on Oahu and there is nothing I can find on island. Also, I had the head pressure tested and they’re fine.

So my head gasket failed due to overheating and I removed the heads to replace it. I wanted to get the heads pressure tested and surfaced just in case they ended up being warped since they’re aluminum. There was a stamp on the bottom of the heads that indicated it’s been milled 4 thou at one point in its life. I checked the service manual and found out the max amount of removable surface is 7.9 thou. I got a call earlier today that they need to remove another 5 thou from the heads. That puts about 1.1 over the limit from the service manual. I started checking custom gasket websites for oversized head gaskets , but I couldn’t find my specific motor(6VD1 Isuzu). How much of a difference with that thousandth of an inch make if I had to reinstall it? I’m still looking for a thicker gasket, but so far I have had no luck. Do I have to call a place and give them the bore size to cut a completely custom gasket? Or could I get away with just throwing the head back on with a fel pro gasket? This is a 99 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 liter.