What’s on your wrist this Thursday?

Today I decided to take out a nice little understated vintage gem. Picked it up in the old town center square of Warsaw on my last trip to Poland. It is imbued with alot of memories from that trip especially as we were visiting sites related to the Holocaust with foremost experts, scholars, and survivors. What do you have on your wrist today?

u/InquisitorKeres — 1 day ago

A Homage id love to see | Specifically Bulova style Royal Oak

The Royal Oak has always been a love it or loath it kind of watch in its history and honestly, I am not a fan of more modern version, but the early ones, especially Bulova’s, imo is the way this design was supposed to be. I would love to see Baltany consider a vintage Royal Oak like this where the focus is on restraint and clean execution, a far cry from the flashy nature of modern Royal Oaks.

The Bulova was supposedly based on early sketches that Genta provided before further refinement with AP who brought theirs to market. I haven’t been able to pin down the validity of this but the fact they were able to produce these for a time with no issue and at this quality speaks for itself.

Why I think this works so well. At 35-36mm, it is the perfect vintage size and works on most wrists. In addition, at a shade under 9mm thick, they wear like the true vintage luxury watches they are. Of course, with modern automatics like the ST2130, that could be nearly matched but I feel that to ensure water resistance of 100m and to give more design space, as long as the overall design was kept under 11mm, Sadly the 2892 movement is thinner than the ST at 3.6 vs 4.8 it would still visually work although the Miyota 9 series at 3.9 could be a closer fit but likely at a price premium if stock could even be maintained.

Another element that makes this stand out compared to the AP is the thinner, smaller, and less extreme dial texture. Much like linen dials, this restraint really helps it come alive and look far more vintage. The bezel is also far thinner and more restrained, and really the fact the only polishing on these are used for spot details, thin sides of bezel, edges between case sides, crown cap edge, really soften the look.

It’s also admittedly not built to the same tolerances bracelet wise as the AP’s of the era and honestly, I think that plays in its favor and would be something I’d be happy to see replicated. It’s still thin, still tapers and folds to the wrist like a good flat president style, but can pair well with a vintage style press fit clasp rather than call for a deployant or other hidden clasp.

Also, with Baltany’s B branding, text, and their vintage tone gold plating on a mostly brushed case, you could really have something special here. Integrated sports watches are still the rave and still vintage darlings and it’s something noticeably absent from Baltany’s portfolio. In addition, no one really is trying to replicate vintage style (in size, style, or execution) of Royal Oaks like this, much less Bulova’s take on it.

I don’t know if it’s just me but I would love to see this from Baltany, although I know it’s beyond wishful thinking and hopes. I also am more excited about their DayDate which is supposedly in the works but again, figured I’d still at least make a case for another potential future project idea. What do you guys think? Would this be something that interested you too?

u/InquisitorKeres — 5 days ago

ST2130 engined Baltany S4084 Burgundy | What a stunner!

First disclaimer, I purchased this watch myself with no discount, in fact paying more for express shipping. Baltany in no way has a part in this review and I am not receiving anything for it.

Just got in this Burgundy Datejust from Baltany and I am absolutely over the moon with it. I specifically chose the ST2130 movement as I have been really enjoying my ETA clones like the pt5000 engined watches I have so I didn’t feel it was a risk. In addition, my research has shown that Baltany has in the past taken great care choosing the right movements for their watches and even regulating if need be. I have full confidence they would only house the better and proper lubricated and tuned version of this engine. In exchange, what you get is a thinner movement with a proper 4hz sweep. And Baltany does trim down the case dimensions to take advantage of that change as well.

At 11.4mm thanks to the thinner movement, it wears brilliantly on wrist, much like my Neo vintage Rolex models, the case only protrudes slightly and enough to let the case rest comfortably on wrist. Paired with a reasonably thin milled clasp and a proper jubilee style bracelet and it wraps gently around the wrist for supremely comfortable wear. The bracelet is finished phenomenally and I have no complaints, if anything, pleased by the case fitment on the solid end links as it keeps a very clean cohesive look and shows more of their commitment to detail.

However, the star of the show is that dial! The deep fume and sunburst Burgundy dial is executed brilliantly and is absolutely captivating in all light. It still retains the high level of detail and finish of the dial with delicate printing of the recessed/stepped minute track on the outside and the well finished gold tone hands, indices and logo really stand out against the darker dial. They capture light well and even at extreme angles or lighting conditions, they provide excellent legible contrast ensuring the watch, despite its movie star looks, maintains extreme legibility.

I am stunned by the cyclops as well. Yes I wasn’t the biggest fan of them in my early watch career but I have come to appreciate them especially for the way they add a touch of asymmetry to a design which of course with a crown that breaks perfect symmetry allows it to visually look more cohesive. Also functionally, it can make the date feel less tacked on and more of a central feature. In this case. It’s the greatest magnification I’ve seen on a watch but doesn’t feel out of place. Feels exactly as functional as I want and while I wasn’t originally a fan of the black disk with white font for it, outside of maybe gilt printing for the date text, it was the right choice. It blends in far more to the fume dial and looks cohesive.

Now to the finishing. It is overall quite decently done. It matches its inspiration for where finishes should be so it’s hard to complain about polished top lugs, and they are executed well. If anything I would like to see a sharper break between top of lugs and side finishing but it’s better than most and honestly at this price range, absolutely insane. When I consider what they offer for the money, it isn’t just good, it becomes exceptional. That said, it is nice on the proper oyster style side case. The gentle curves are really well done and polished and honestly, after a few years of wear and scratches, I think it will look even better. Absolutely satisfied.

The bezel is also one of those things that can be make or break with a datejust homage. There is huge difference between the vintage, Neo vintage, and modern proportions in terms of diameter/thickness and often this is the first point where models get it wrong. In this case, they went for a Neo vintage style and executed it great. It’s a thinner proportion and also the thickness is properly trimmed down. In terms of cut and finish, it is well done and sharp enough to capture light very well.

Last let’s talk about the gold. I won’t go into detail about the choice of two tone etc, you either like it or not. I happen to love it but what I want to speak on is the color of the gold tone plating. I love the color they chose for this. It doesn’t feel as desaturated as their modern vintage tone plating but it is also not as high saturation ‘cheddar’ yellow as many other offerings. It’s more subdued than the standard TiN plating you see and that really helps keep it toned down which is essential for a two tone to feel cohesive. It is far too easy to get this wrong so I have to say I am impressed with what Baltany has done here.

In the end, I am extremely satisfied with this watch and it will not be my last Baltany (in fact already have another on order). I had given them a bit of an overlook for years as while I liked what they were doing, their early model range was smaller, and while I appreciated the ideas of doing a modern enthusiast vintage revival, they hadn’t had the time to execute on that vision. Meanwhile, others had stolen my eye like Thorn with their T023 line and some of the watches Watchdives was working on. It’s a shame as Baltany has been really upping the game and going down a route that aligns exactly with the kind of watches I want. I am excited to see what comes next from them and I have to say, this one is up there with the finest examples of other homages in my collection.

u/InquisitorKeres — 7 days ago

Burgundy Day

Just got this in yesterday and I’m absolutely enthralled by the gorgeous burgundy dial. First Baltany but I have to say I’ve been over the moon with its build quality and fit and finish so far.

u/InquisitorKeres — 7 days ago

They finally did it!

So excited! Finally they put on their site the next wave of models including the monochrome and white dial! Yes they will be upgrading the bracelet (I guess upgrade, I loved my v1 and v1.1 bracelets) to be toolless adjusting like some of the others in their range. Either way. I can’t wait for these especially the monochrome with bgw9 blue lume. Gives off NOS vibes that I’m sure will look great with honest wear and age.

u/InquisitorKeres — 7 days ago

Datejust Burgundy ST2130

Just took delivery of this burgundy datejust and I am absolutely blown away. It is my first Baltany (but I already have another on order). I went with the ST2130 as based on research, I am fully confident of the quality of the movements Baltany would put in rather than a lower quality version of it. In addition, really the improved thickness or rather lack there of, is a very valued quality to me and I was all the more willing to take that chance. Also it’s an eta clone so should be easy to service and if something did go wrong, I have plenty of donor eta or pt movements that could be dropped in.

Now first impression is, this is an unreal beauty. That dial is so enthralling and when combined with the trimmed case proportions, it wears perfectly on wrist. Imo this is the best datejust homage I have ever experienced and now sits in the top three homages in my collection. I am really excited to get my next Baltany but I will have more thoughts after a little time with this, I don’t foresee any other watch getting wrist time for a bit.

u/InquisitorKeres — 7 days ago

My favorite homages. Waiting for a modern day-date.

Just got in my new Baltany burgundy datejust with seagull movement keeping it very thin. I have a lot of great homages but honestly these three are imo the best in my collection as examples of what they pay tribute to. Only one missing really is the Day Date as I feel there hasn’t been a better one brought to market (outside the Tudor Prince) since the 80’s.

u/InquisitorKeres — 7 days ago

Wood this interest you or am I barking up the wrong tree?

To preface, I know Baltany have stated they are working on a day date, where that stands they haven’t been able to share so could be anywhere from concepts to prototypes. It is the one watch on the horizon I am most eagerly anticipating.

That said, I wanted to gauge interest in a unique finishing style (and often dial pairing) that has stolen my heart. The last thing I would want though would be to push for a watch that only appeals to me or a select few so wanted to see if this kind of thing has interest from others. Seeing as they recently have been playing with linen dials and engine turned bezels I figure they might be interested in unique offerings no one else is attempting.

In this case, it’s the Bark finish. It was a surprisingly diverse offering from the likes of Rolex, Patek, Piaget, Longines, and others as the 70’s and 80’s were a wild time of experimentation and play. Many chose to do the whole case and bracelets in this style letting that dominate the design while Rolex took as they often do, a much more conservative approach. Choosing for their day date to only do the bezel and center links, this gave the watch a unique visual style but also due to the non polished nature of it, really softens the look and reflections and often draws attention back to the dials.

In addition, it pairs very well with another dial that Rolex toyed with which is one of my favorites that I don’t see replicated today. Even with the industry darling being stone dials these days, I haven’t yet seen nice old woods, burls, and other treatments experimented with even in the wildly adventurous microbrand space. IMO, a bark case day date with a wood dial is such a unique and gorgeous watch, it’s easily become my top aspirational grail watches, but I understand it pushes the visuals back to the 70’s more than even a lot of tigereye on gold watches do and not everyone vibes with that.

Just curious what everyone else thinks, would anyone else be interested in Bark finished watches? Let me know your thoughts!

u/InquisitorKeres — 8 days ago

What’s on your wrist?

For this Thursday, decided to try one of my Super Sevilles on a leather band. We have an event this afternoon that called for something just above business casual so felt this was a fun choice. What’s on your wrist today?

u/InquisitorKeres — 8 days ago

What’s on your wrist today?

Today I’m rocking my old steel watch dives x San Martin 39mm “Pelagoose”. I do love this gem as it’s been a robust and reliable companion for years and joined me on many aquatic adventures as well. It’s an absolute tank that hasn’t lost a step. It was also the first ceramic bezel on a watch I didn’t hate but matte can do that to transform a look. I also adore how high contrast the dial layout is, making it an easy tool choice. What are you rocking today?

u/InquisitorKeres — 11 days ago

Mondays in the office

Just got into the office after the gym. Today decided to bring out a nice old vintage Mido commander automatic. What are you wearing for this Monday?

u/InquisitorKeres — 12 days ago
▲ 41 r/bulova+1 crossposts

Vintage Super Seville

Have this ol beauty on today. I do really love the new ones but there’s something special about the old ones. They were made to such a high level.

u/InquisitorKeres — 12 days ago

Turn-o-graph

I know Baltany is exploring the Day-Date and I am beyond excited to see what comes of that, I know with how Baltany has executed its releases, I’m sure I will love it. As I sat looking at the recent linen engine turned models though, another thought struck me. I wonder if Baltany would ever make a Turn-o-graph model. Their 36mm DJ case would make for a great fit and seeing as for the turnograph, you don’t need to really fit a lot into the bezel as it’s mainly just friction. It could be a great opportunity for a unique offering that I can’t recall others having explored. Interested to hear from others if this is something others would be interested in or just me.

u/InquisitorKeres — 13 days ago

What is your wrist partner this Saturday?

Today I’m wearing my ol’ reliable 14000m Air King. It was one of the first watches that made me reconsider and break with the convention of the era on moving towards larger watches. It’s 34mm but thanks to its generous lug length, well fit oyster bracelet, gentle brushing to keep it visually flowing, and a stunning silver dial, it visually wears much larger as all of it combined visually to appear much more unified, thus hiding its size. I think the silver dial really plays the strongest role here as being able to appear more unified to the case, it can create almost the illusion that it is larger. What do you have on your wrist today?

u/InquisitorKeres — 14 days ago

Bulova Super Seville | Argentinian Vintage

Today I want to share what I have on my wrist, my beautiful old Super Seville from Argentina. Even before I received it, it clearly led a full and very loved life. The day disk has been replaced with a Latin disk, the crystal replaced with a heavily domed acrylic number with internal cyclops, slightly misaligned as it was either a generic replacement part or made for another watch but fit, and the bracelet is so stretched, the end links rattle and the side of the president construction has been revealed but it fits like a well worn old glove. Amazingly, when I got it, it was perfectly sized to me as well, I never needed to adjust it as though it was just waiting for me.

u/InquisitorKeres — 15 days ago

What’s on your wrist this Thursday?

Today I’m wearing to the office my other Bulova, this one a nice vintage from Argentina with replaced crystal, a heavily domed acrylic with internal misaligned cyclops clearly meant for a different watch or generic replacement option, a Latin day disk instead of the factory English, and a bracelet so worn in and stretched it feels like wearing an old broken in baseball glove. What do you have with you on this fine day?

u/InquisitorKeres — 16 days ago
▲ 27 r/bulova

Still one of my favorites

I keep forgetting just how fantastic these old gems are til I put it back in rotation for a bit.

u/InquisitorKeres — 16 days ago

What are you wearing today?

Today I have on one of my vintage Rado watches, the one I jokingly refer to as ‘El Santo’ as it feels like a nice Santos adjacent inspired design. What’s on your wrist this fine Wednesday?

u/InquisitorKeres — 17 days ago