u/InternalConfusion201

Hello,

I have a few lenses in M42, Nikon F (Ai) and Canon FD mounts that I use often with my Sony cameras. That said, my cameras are crop sensor and I won't be able to upgrade to full frame for the time being.

Does it make any sense to get speed boosters (if I can actually find them, FD seems expensive and hard to find for example)? If so, which are decent without breaking the bank? Should I just keep "cropping" the lenses?

Thank you!

Asking here because I know people with proper studios using iPads and client monitors hangout around here.

I have a MacBook Pro 16'' M1 Max that handles all of my photography and videography needs with flying colours, but sometimes I need something a little bit more portable (I know I already have a laptop, but its big and a bit heavy and unwieldy). For context - I travel quite a bit, and came to this realisation on a 14h flight where I simply didn't take it out of the overhead luggage compartment to edit the trip's photos as I couldn't be bothered to grab my heavy backpack in a plane full of people. I'd been on the fence about getting an iPad for a while cause the file management on iPad iOS is abysmal, and then the Neo came confound things even more. It's also money I can put towards other useful stuff like lighting or modifiers.

I mean to use it as a client monitor, on location tethering without hauling the bigger laptop and on the go editing like the example I gave above, or on trains and buses.

I have a MacBook Pro 16'' M1 Max that handles all of my photography and videography needs with flying colours, but sometimes I need something a little bit more portable (I know I already have a laptop, but its big and a bit heavy and unwieldy). For context - I travel quite a bit, and came to this realisation on a 14h flight where I simply didn't take it out of the overhead luggage compartment to edit the trip's photos as I couldn't be bothered to grab my heavy backpack in a plane full of people.

I mean to use it as a client monitor, on location tethering without hauling the bigger laptop and on the go editing like the example I gave above, or on trains and buses.

I'd been on the fence about getting an iPad for a while cause the file management on iPad OS is abysmal, and then the Neo came confound things even more.

Edit: Forgot to mention that I use Capture One almost exclusively, with Affinity for the "photoshop" side of things when needed. Both are available for iPad as well, but I don't know how good they are.

Anyone more experienced with different stadiums lighting systems ever come across lights that create a red/warm slow flicker?

I could clearly see it on my screen and viewfinder during the event, and it appears on some of the pictures. Expecting difficult lighting beforehand I had already configured both cameras to use the full mechanical shutter (2x Sony a6700, one with a 18-50mm f2.8, the other with a Viltrox 75mm f1.2), so it isn't a electronic shutter or electronic first curtain problem. It also shows up pretty much across the entire range of shutter speeds used (from 1/200 to 1/2000). I guess anything under the 50Hz power frequency would be safe, but I didn't remember to try it, and I couldn't use that slow a shutter speed anyway.

How do you deal with this? Is there even a way to deal with it onsite? It didn't outright ruin any pictures so to say, but it got me pretty curious.

(I can't really share pictures as it was an event involving children, even blurring their faces it is pretty identifiable)

Edit: I've shared some pictures in a comment

Having recently assumed a technical coordinator role at a live venue (municipality theatre), I’ve “inherited” some gear that is a bit foreign to me (don’t judge the audio engineer 😅) and that I now need to learn and upkeep. We’re a small team that as the absolute bonkers number of 0 video people (I’m a photographer outside of work though).

Namely a HyperDeck Studio Pro 2 and an ATEM Studio Pro 4k. I have a grasp of the ATEM, but I do need help with the HyperDeck.

I can only find the manuals for the current models, and I don’t know how to download any software compatible with this older version, or if it is still available at all. I tried the version 9.0.2 of the HyperDeck control software but couldn’t get it to recognize the unit, so I don’t know if it’s incompatible with the older HyperDeck 2. Can anyone help? Thank you!

This post probably doesn’t really have a point, but seeing all the hype around new cameras and upgrade discussions made me think about it.

Photography started as a hobby for me about 4 years ago when I got a ZV-E10 to film myself playing guitar for YouTube and band auditions. I think I used it 3 or 4 times for that before getting completely hooked on photography instead. I learned a ton on that little camera.
A bit later, I upgraded to the a6700 when it came out, learned even more, picked up some lenses, and started doing photography semi-professionally alongside my music/audio engineering day job.

At this point, it’s still not exactly a money-printing business, so jumping to full frame doesn’t make much sense financially. What I *do* need more and more is a second body.
I keep missing shots because I have the wrong lens on, I want a second angle sometimes, a remote camera, etc. I’ve been borrowing and renting cameras (everything from A7 IVs to Nikon Z6 IIIs, plus other a6700s), but I have a few upcoming events where renting would cost about half as much as just buying another camera. Borrowing also depends on gear actually being available when I need it, even though I’m lucky to have a good friend I share gear with often.

**TL;DR:** After trying a bunch of cameras, from top-of-the-line bodies (not just Sony) to more “normal” options, I’m still not convinced I need to jump to full frame, or that there’s some magical camera that solves all the limitations I’m working around with the a6700 without costing more than my car is worth.
I genuinely love this little camera.

Would I like a usable silent shutter? Sure, but that basically means an a9 III or a1 for my use cases.
Would I like full frame for my vintage lenses? Also sure, but not if it feels like a step sideways or backwards from the a6700.

If the business grows the way I hope it does, I’ll probably sell one of the a6700s later and see what’s available then.

For now, the only thing that worries me a bit is the single card slot… but hey, with two a6700s, now I technically have two card slots 😅 and we can’t afford cards anyway thanks to AI

Looking for recipes for best looking skin tones. Coming from Fuji, I was pampered with film simulations such as Velvia and Classic Chrome. Velvia stood out in indoor settings while it's not true to color, it made people look more beautiful than they were creating an aura of magic in my photos. I tried using some of those sims using Nikon recipes and tyd results are awful. Is Nikon's own Standard profile seems to be little weak.

Any suggestions appreciated.

I took a console out of storage recently and just now realised it is on version 3.4.4 instead of 3.4.6 like another one we have.

Musictribe website is down, I can't find the files anywhere.