There's a form to fill and submit. I've not done it. Two ice cream brands they stock make spumoni flavor but no Publix has spumoni. What are my chances for success? If you have gone this paper route of making a request, how did it go? I'm asking "stocked on shelf," for me and all and not "special order one-time buy."
We spend 6 months each year in our Naples home, and find it amazing that in a place named for a city in Italy, a city full of "Italian" restaurants, spumoni ice cream cannot be bought in a grocery store. We're in whitebread McHenry county IL and the Kroger and Jewel Osco stores, here and everywhere in this huge metroplex called Chicagoland, stock and sell spumoni year round. We can get it at an ice cream shop on Airport Pulling just north of Davis, but pass FIVE supermarkets on the way, and it turns into a 26 mile round trip.
Can this be? A boat far newer than all those Alcort and AMF queens that are still racing, a boat that when all wiped off looks almost new, but forgotten about, stored outdoors in a winter climate, and while under the cover that was new maybe ten years ago when the boat was new (it says Laser Performance), got wet. Really wet. Something, a heavy falling limb from the huge linden it sits under, or fighting raccoons, or whatever, tore a y-shaped large rip in the cover centered on the cockpit tub, allowing tree debris and snow and rain to fill the tub. And fill the tub. And fill the tub. A boat with these conditions can incur condensing water on its deck underside, which migrates into the deck-to-foam-blocks glued joints, then the kind of way below freezing days and nights we got last winter, made it into ice which expanded and popped big areas of deck from the block standoffs, turning what might have been a wet project boat, into landfill fodder. Is this common for neglected boats stored outside particularly in locales with icy winters?
The pics show my beach at its widest distance, old concrete sea wall to water. The paddleboard is 32" wide by 11'6", for reference. Property line is close to where teeth end of beach rake is seen beyond. Want to dolly-park it (looking at the FB Marketplace listings and will buy when I find the right one) to get it out of water between usage, with the sail-mast-boom parts sitting atop the boat, then wheel it on dolly, maneuver and turn, and in the water she goes. Will garage-store in winter, on dolly. Very few sailboats on this 250-acre clear water lake. It's nothing but 'toons and jetskis, but they'll just have to maneuver around me. Used dollys are the same cost as used manual boat lifts, but the lifts are all grungy messes from weedy lakes, and really old, most of them. Plus, we cannot store the boat on one in the garage like we can on a dolly.
I really had no way to cool it and thought, why bother, it's gonna warm up anyhow if I use water cooled to, say, 68 F. at mix time. So 82 is my temp, and I am thinking noon, as I combined all ingredients (plain old 75 percent hydration recipe, with a 5-seed mix put in at the 3rd S&F), at 7 a.m. That's 5 hours and looking for only a 25 percent increase in volume. I'll go another hour in the bannetans (2 loaf recipe) before wrapping up and refrigerating. 6 a.m. bake tomorrow. Does 5 and 25 seem right?
I've been doing a deep dive into all things Sunfish, in anticipation of buying one. My goal is to have a Vanguard-era one by next early spring. It is for grandchildren, 9 and 11, and their dad has committed to a learn-to-sail summer, and NOT sign them up for continuous camp things next year. Camp will be here at the lake. I've come to believe that DRY is paramount in finding one to buy. Here is what we'll do to measure. First, get two $9 digital floor scales from Walmart. Cut two 12" pieces of 2x4. Get the target boat down to its hull only. Nothing attached to it. Set the two chunks of 2x4 on scale 1 near the stern, set the hull on it with its keel between the chunks, and with scale 2 at the bow end, one person has it under their feet while holding up the bow. The hull is borne by scale 1 at the stern, and by the person holding up the bow while on scale 2. Note scale readings. Whoever held the bow now weighs and that weight is subtracted from the total. Hope for 130 pounds. Walk away if it's heavy. I am not doing the inspection port thing, with computer fans, fix all the leak points, yadda yadda yadda. I hope to find a well-cared-for boat.
For a Sunfish? I know it does not cradle the boat like the $600 ones do, but might it do?
As can be seen in the pic, the tongue handle end, when this dolly is in its shortest position, makes dolly 9''10" long, so the 13'9" hull of the Sunfish, with its nose to the handle, has its stern hanging 4 feet off its rear bearings. This dolly has a significantly narrower wheelbase that the typical beach dolly you see at club sites and other places, but for my intended purpose, getting a boat out from the yard onto the 48" wide dock, and back up and on-dolly, it might do. My problem (not yet 'cause I've not bought the boat yet) is the yard/lakefront situation. 75 foot lot width, concrete seawall about 20 inches high across entire yard, a 4' break in the wall at center where attaches the 4' wide by 36 foot dock, 24 feet of it above water. The sand beach at one corner of the yard is zero, and an even taper to a width of almost 15 feet at the other corner. There's enough sand beach at the wide end that the boat can be dollied out and turned 90 degrees and snuggled up to the seawall, leaving about ten feet of beach between boat and water's edge. So back to the question. Will this dolly handle the Sunfish for the two moves, the get it in the water move on Memorial Day, and the get it out and into the garage move in October?
Don't have a boat yet but have a lakefront lot, so it's a start. Can the boat be tied alongside our pier, protected with bumpers, a nice mast-up cover for protection, from Memorial Day to October 1 each season, on this northern Illinois lake? Or should it be on a lift? And if on a lift, and I see plenty of used ones for sale on FB Marketplace, the big wheel manual ones, does one look for the lightest duty one, like the Hewitt 1050? All the lift brands have something like 1000 or 1500 pound capacity at their light duty end, way more than needed for a 130 pound boat. Hoping to find a SF from the wonder years '99 to '06 when Vanguard was doing them.
What kind of freight shipper would handle one of these and get it safely to me a thousand miles away? How does one prep the package for shipment? Looking at a used boat in NC and I am in IL.
Will be installing three bathroom fan/light units, all connected to a remote Fantech fan unit in attic, each unit a powered damper circular grille inlet with 7w LED light at center. Fantech has a toggle switch, their FLD60 model, for controlling. See pictures. The FLD60 costs between about $90 and $170 depending on source, and the Marktime 42E is about $26. Operation is slightly different. Fantech's toggles ON and OFF, ON turning both fan and light on, OFF turning off light and leaving fan run for set delay time. Marktime's is a 3-position switch, ON turning on both fan and light, OFF turning both off, and TIME turning light off leaving fan on for set delay time. Can we save $$ and use the Marktime to operate this Fantech equipment?
If you know flashing and snip and bend and hem stuff, how readily is this done in Andersen's 0.024" aluminum? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM7HtFymehU
Planning a build, foundation going in right now. Exterior finish is LP Smartside board + batten, trimmed out with LP board products in various sizes. I am questioning the monstrously large (seems to me) of their recommended separation of materials, meaning the gap that gets caulked. I drew a Sketchup model to illustrate. Here is step one of the window install. The WRB is to be Obdyke Hydrogap and is not shown. Windows are Andersen 400, the one shown here is their Flexiframe, as we are doing mostly fixed rectangles, but whatever, they are all flange-mount units. Andersen 400 Flexiframes don't come with a factory head flash, so the one we'll do in field is shown in pink. That flash will go on as soon as the window is set and fixed, and Obdyke Hydroflash GP will tape over the flash flange against the wrapped wall.
Got one? Got a link?
New 1300 sf house on frost protected shallow foundation, infloor heat, polished concrete floor finish, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, dishwasher. Located in climate zone 5, winter design temp -15 F. Boiler will be propane-fired, combi type, with recirc so the wait is not long for hot water at the taps. AI advises something line a Navien NCB250/150H and we'll add recirc. How good are these units for doing the job we want?
I posted earlier here about gas cost today and my experience realizing zero savings. We live 45 minutes away in dense metro boulevard traffic, 17.5 miles, 35 mile round trip. We joined sixteen months ago for the hearing aids and got talked into Exec membership, and our cash back amounted to 42 bucks. Other than the hearing aids buy, we bought a few ribeye steaks, two lunches, seven bottles of wine, two roasting chickens, and four chunks of French Comte cheese. This, in Naples FL, Collier county, metro area population 450,000. Our SUV gets 21 mpg in city, thus we are burning 1.66 g fuel to do the drive, which amounts to $7.15 at todays gas price. And this does not include cost for maintenance, depreciation, insurance, fees, and other auto cost BS. We have a Bank of America card that gives us 6 percent cash back on gas buys. I needed be at Best Buy adjacent Costco this afternoon and topped up (6.4 g reg) and paid 4.29, passed 14 stations going home 12 of which were selling at same 4.29 save the two nearest home, one a 7-11 and the other, a Shell (top tier gas!!!!!) at two cents under Costco. So I asked the Jamaican guy inside if his employer treated him well. Yea mon, he said.
Paid 4.29 regular at my Naples FL Costco, which is a 45 minute city traffic drive, and my drive home passes 14 gas stations, almost all priced exactly at same 4.29. The last two were at 4.27, a 7-11 and a (top tier) Shell. The Shell's my nearest, 2.5 miles from home. But Costco treats their employees well.
Have you done this? A new house build will have a few fixed windows, and the spec is for drywall returns head and jambs and a white Corian sill. Various Andersen product lines will work OK, the builder prefers the 400 series, which for fixed, means Flexiframe. I drew the plans and think the 100 series have a more modern look (and they cost less!). Further, they are easier to build, and the images here show why. The Flexiframe profiles (Andersen does NOT sell drywall returns for these) require a site-made-and-installed (and painted . . . the windows are to be black out and black in) bead, shown in yellow. The 100s need no painted wood parts.
Which do you prefer?
I'm Windows 11 and running a reasonably fast card, nVidea RTX3070. Will it load and run SU Make 2017 for you. It won't on my machine, which I believe is compromised.
https://www.av8rdas.com/sketchup-resources.html#Downloads
It's the exe with the numbers 90782. Tell me if it runs and what your card is. I need a new machine, something with 5060 or faster, and would like to have my trusty old Make 2017, I run on an old Asus with a GTX card, just fine. Running on a hot new fast machine. I use it alongside Chief Architect for making 3D models of fixtures and furnishings not available in the Chief libraries.
I have it running on a laptop I retired but still keep, because I need to make 3D models for use in my Chief Architect application from time to time.
I made a copy of executable application file and its whole package of extensions, put it on a thumb drive, and brought it into my newer laptop with an Nvidea RTX3070 card and am using the studio driver with that card, not the gaming driver.
SU Make 17 won't run on my newer machine. I've attached a screencap of the error message I get when I try to open the app.
Going forward, as regards my Chief Architect app, I really ought to be getting a new machine with a faster video card, something like a 5080. I'm wondering if the SU Make 2017 will run on one of these. If you run 2017 on a fast card, tell me about it.
