Hi!
I have been trying to find this part all day, but cant seem to find it. On 1992-1993 cars there are 2 coolant sensors on top of the engine. One for the ECU and one for the radiator fans. All results for the thermo switch have the CTS connector so it doesn't fit the thermo switch harness.
I decided to post this here, as the MX-6 and Ford Probe are basically the same car with some engine bay clearance differences. I forgot to take pictures of the process SORRY :(
My engine had a lot of movement, so I figured I needed to get the motor mounts replaced. Got the rear mount replaced today. It had seen better days. 😅
Absolute nightmare to get out.
Quick write up!
ALWAYS USE 6-POINT SOCKETS!!
Remove the intake all the way to the throttle body. Remove the airbox as well.
Jack up the car and put it on jack stands (front is enough).
Remove the passenger side wheel.
Remove the crossmember right next to the downpipe
Remove the exhaust downpipe. This give the needed space.
Support the engine using a jack. Use a flat piece of wood and jack up the engine from the oil pan VERY slightly, just enough to lift the weight off the mount.
The through bolt is a 17mm. This can be tricky to open. Best way I found is to combine multiple extensions and reach the bolt from the passenger side wheel. Use a breaker bar to open the bolt and remove.
Now open the 3 bolts holding the engine mount mounting bracket. It's bolted to the transmission with 3 17mm bolts. Open those up. On some cars there is a 10mm bolt that is bolted to the bracket from above. Use long extensions to get that loose and remove. Now the mounting bracket should be free from the car.
If you are using motor mount inserts, put them in now. If you have decided to replace the motor mount, good luck. The motor mount is bolted to the subframe. (Picture of the subframe). The red circle is where 2 nuts and 1 bolt hold the engine mount in. The GIF in the post was how I got them loose.
You can reach those bolts from above, with a lot of extensions and a universal joint. The nuts and bolt should be 17mm. If you can't see them, you need to remove the 2 10mm nuts that hold the wiring harness to the fire wall, then you can carefully try to move the harness out of the way somewhat. Use a deep 17mm socket on the nuts to avoid stripping them. Once you get them all off, use a magnet stick to remove the nuts and the bolt.
Now the engine mount should be free from the car. Remove it from the underside.
Install is the reverse of the removal. Getting the through bolt installed to the new mount can be tricky. You might need a crowbar to get the engine back to the correct position.
My 2012 GT86 was on original shocks at 150k km. It also had lowering springs.
GR86 struts returned the car to stock height! Much better to drive! It's firm but soaks potholes much better than my old blown suspension. Install was a direct bolt in, no modifications needed! Swaybar links are an absolute pain in the ass.
It's my daily and sees quite a lot of snow so the ground clearance is a welcome chance.
What a stupid way to crash. I built this heli last year and did not use loctite on the tail belt pulley parts. The carbon plates that stop the belt from jumping from the pulley came loose....
Needs quite a lot of new parts, total in cost of 200€. Yikes.
I'm looking to replace my aging setup on my 2012 GT86. I need them as a entire assembly. (Shocks, springs and top hats).
Cheers!
I bought a set of used wheels for my GT86 for cheap. The shiny metal bits are a bit corroded and pitted.
I don't need them to look new, just a bit better.
Any DIY suggestions?
Hi!
My GT86 is doing this weird whining noise. It goes up in pitch with revs, and disappears when I press the clutch pedal in. It comes back when I release the clutch pedal.
I have a clutch job and TOB replacement reserved as I suspect the TOB, but could this be something else? Is this just normal operating sounds of the car?
It's pretty quiet but I can hear it inside the car as well. Clutch pedal feels normal and the clutch does not slip at all.
Hi!
My 2012 GT86 has had the valve recall done 15 000km ago. The engine has no odd noises and is working as it should. I have been reading about those engine failures due to excess RTV sealant. My car does have some rtv spilling from the timing cover.
Would it be worth to pull the oil pan and clean the pickup, or am I safe due to the miles covered?
