u/Lex_yeon

I’m on the road, I want o buy a charging cable for cheap, not the whole cleaning station.

I was washing it, the o ring fell out, I tried to put it back, I think I broke the teeth

911 operator told me to call someone else, who would care about this and do an investigation? The Mall and hotel might have security cameras

Looks like phone lines, not power line.

It’s about 4.5 poles of distance.

I was walking my dog when I saw it.

1. roof is ‘sinking’. I stopped the leak after putting tons of silicone and patching tape on roof. It’s not leaking anymore, it still has a ‘pond’ every time after raining. I think I should add one roof bow, maybe two to strengthen the sinking area, before I put insulation on. I would not be able to do it after insulation.
2. It’s just a patch. To properly fix it, I might have to cut that part of aluminum panel out, undo the sealing, put a new panel in, and reseal. That’s a lot of work.
3. So I bought a roof bow from fleet&pride, it’s about $45.
4. I cut off about 3 inches for it to go in. And I also cut a piece on the edge, for my wrench to go in. So I can bolt it.
5. It’s very amateur, but it’s what I could do for now

1. roof is ‘sinking’. I stopped the leak after putting tons of silicone and patching tape on roof. It’s not leaking anymore, it still has a ‘pond’ every time after raining. I think I should add one roof bow, maybe two to strengthen the sinking area, before I put insulation on. I would not be able to do it after insulation.
2. It’s just a patch. To properly fix it, I might have to cut that part of aluminum panel out, undo the sealing, put a new panel in, and reseal. That’s a lot of work.
3. So I bought a roof bow from fleet&pride, it’s about $45.
4. I cut off about 3 inches for it to go in. And I also cut a piece on the edge, for my wrench to go in. So I can bolt it.
5. It’s very amateur, but it’s what I could do for now

1. roof is ‘sinking’. I stopped the leak after putting tons of silicone and patching tape on roof. It’s not leaking anymore, it still has a ‘pond’ every time after raining. I think I should add one roof bow, maybe two to strengthen the sinking area, before I put insulation on. I would not be able to do it after insulation.
2. It’s just a patch. To properly fix it, I might have to cut that part of aluminum panel out, undo the sealing, put a new panel in, and reseal. That’s a lot of work.
3. So I bought a roof bow from fleet&pride, it’s about $45.
4. I cut off about 3 inches for it to go in. And I also cut a piece on the edge, for my wrench to go in. So I can bolt it.
5. It’s very amateur, but it’s what I could do for now

It’s leaking slowly

I think I’m going to do a diy transmission fluid drain and refill, and replace the seal and oil pan

Can someone give me a model number for the oil pan and seal? It doesn’t have to be the exact model, an upgraded model would do. I could go to a ford dealer and ask the parts department

Thank you

I’m not against solar, I think solar is good stuff. I’m just not ready to drill holes on my roof, and do all the installation. Too much things can go horribly wrong, if I do it incorrectly.

My battery system is so simple, that even a grandma can do it.

Now let’s get into topic

1. Mine is a hybrid system, it means I use both raw battery and power station.
2. I have two 3584wh raw batteries, they are not connected and work separately. They do all the low power jobs.
3. Battery 1 is powering e-cooler and security cameras, Battery 2 is powering diesel heater and cellular router. That’s about all the low powered electronics I’m running on my box truck, for now.
4. Now the power station, it does the high power jobs for a short time. Such as microwave(1-3 minutes), rice cooker(1 hour), corded vacuum(5-10 minutes). It’s only turned on when I need it, to save electricity on inverter.
5. I think I don’t need a delta pro, a light weighted delta 2 or other 1kWh 1800w power station can do the job. And a 1kWh power station would weight around 25lb, which is lighter/smaller to carry to a library, a McDonalds, a park to charge.
6. I modified the power supply of my cellular routers, so they can run on 12V dc power, without using an AC outlet.
7. For example P3 is a cudy cellular router, it has a 5521 port and takes 12V ~10W DC to power it. It came with a AC(to DC) adapter, if I use the AC adapter, I will have to turn my power station on and inverter on, waste about 20w on the inverter. So I modified a 5521 cable, attached two O ring connectors at the other end. Now it can be used without AC and inverter.
8. P4 and P5 is another cellular router, it uses 15V 3amp as input, and it has USB C port. It can be powered by a usb c port that can output 15V(Power Delivery).
9. Now how to charge my batteries without solar? I already made a post about how to charge at an EV station. Currently without running an air conditioner, I need to charge my batteries about once every week. https://www.reddit.com/r/RVLiving/comments/1t5ns68/how_i_charge_my_batteries_at_a_level_2_ev/

I’m not against solar, I think solar is good stuff. I’m just not ready to drill holes on my roof, and do all the installation. Too much things can go horribly wrong, if I do it incorrectly.

My battery system is so simple, that even a grandma can do it.

Now let’s get into topic

1. Mine is a hybrid system, it means I use both raw battery and power station.
2. I have two 3584wh raw batteries, they are not connected and work separately. They do all the low power jobs.
3. Battery 1 is powering e-cooler and security cameras, Battery 2 is powering diesel heater and cellular router. That’s about all the low powered electronics I’m running on my box truck, for now.
4. Now the power station, it does the high power jobs for a short time. Such as microwave(1-3 minutes), rice cooker(1 hour), corded vacuum(5-10 minutes). It’s only turned on when I need it, to save electricity on inverter.
5. I think I don’t need a delta pro, a light weighted delta 2 or other 1kWh 1800w power station can do the job. And a 1kWh power station would weight around 25lb, which is lighter/smaller to carry to a library, a McDonalds, a park to charge.
6. I modified the power supply of my cellular routers, so they can run on 12V dc power, without using an AC outlet.
7. For example P3 is a cudy cellular router, it has a 5521 port and takes 12V ~10W DC to power it. It came with a AC(to DC) adapter, if I use the AC adapter, I will have to turn my power station on and inverter on, waste about 20w on the inverter. So I modified a 5521 cable, attached two O ring connectors at the other end. Now it can be used without AC and inverter.
8. P4 and P5 is another cellular router, it uses 15V 3amp as input, and it has USB C port. It can be powered by a usb c port that can output 15V(Power Delivery).
9. Now how to charge my batteries without solar? I already made a post about how to charge at an EV station. Currently without running an air conditioner, I need to charge my batteries about once every week. https://www.reddit.com/r/skoolies/comments/1t5npex/how_i_charge_my_batteries_at_a_level_2_ev/

I’m not against solar, I think solar is good stuff. I’m just not ready to drill holes on my roof, and do all the installation. Too much things can go horribly wrong, if I do it incorrectly.

My battery system is so simple, that even a grandma can do it.

Now let’s get into topic

1. Mine is a hybrid system, it means I use both raw battery and power station.
2. I have two 3584wh raw batteries, they are not connected and work separately. They do all the low power jobs.
3. Battery 1 is powering e-cooler and security cameras, Battery 2 is powering diesel heater and cellular router. That’s about all the low powered electronics I’m running on my box truck, for now.
4. Now the power station, it does the high power jobs for a short time. Such as microwave(1-3 minutes), rice cooker(1 hour), corded vacuum(5-10 minutes). It’s only turned on when I need it, to save electricity on inverter.
5. I think I don’t need a delta pro, a light weighted delta 2 or other 1kWh 1800w power station can do the job. And a 1kWh power station would weight around 25lb, which is lighter/smaller to carry to a library, a McDonalds, a park to charge.
6. I modified the power supply of my cellular routers, so they can run on 12V dc power, without using an AC outlet.
7. For example P3 is a cudy cellular router, it has a 5521 port and takes 12V ~10W DC to power it. It came with a AC(to DC) adapter, if I use the AC adapter, I will have to turn my power station on and inverter on, waste about 20w on the inverter. So I modified a 5521 cable, attached two O ring connectors at the other end. Now it can be used without AC and inverter.
8. P4 and P5 is another cellular router, it uses 15V 3amp as input, and it has USB C port. It can be powered by a usb c port that can output 15V(Power Delivery).
9. Now how to charge my batteries without solar? I already made a post about how to charge at an EV station. Currently without running an air conditioner, I need to charge my batteries about once every week. https://www.reddit.com/r/vandwellers/comments/1t5nmmd/how_i_charge_my_batteries_at_a_level_2_ev/

I’m not against solar, I think solar is good stuff. I’m just not ready to drill holes on my roof, and do all the installation. Too much things can go horribly wrong, if I do it incorrectly.

My battery system is so simple, that even a grandma can do it.

Now let’s get into topic

1. Mine is a hybrid system, it means I use both raw battery and power station.
2. I have two 3584wh raw batteries, they are not connected and work separately. They do all the low power jobs.
3. Battery 1 is powering e-cooler and security cameras, Battery 2 is powering diesel heater and cellular router. That’s about all the low powered electronics I’m running on my box truck, for now.
4. Now the power station, it does the high power jobs for a short time. Such as microwave(1-3 minutes), rice cooker(1 hour), corded vacuum(5-10 minutes). It’s only turned on when I need it, to save electricity on inverter.
5. I think I don’t need a delta pro, a light weighted delta 2 or other 1kWh 1800w power station can do the job. And a 1kWh power station would weight around 25lb, which is lighter/smaller to carry to a library, a McDonalds, a park to charge.
6. I modified the power supply of my cellular routers, so they can run on 12V dc power, without using an AC outlet.
7. For example P3 is a cudy cellular router, it has a 5521 port and takes 12V ~10W DC to power it. It came with a AC(to DC) adapter, if I use the AC adapter, I will have to turn my power station on and inverter on, waste about 20w on the inverter. So I modified a 5521 cable, attached two O ring connectors at the other end. Now it can be used without AC and inverter.
8. P4 and P5 is another cellular router, it uses 15V 3amp as input, and it has USB C port. It can be powered by a usb c port that can output 15V(Power Delivery).
9. Now how to charge my batteries without solar? I already made a post about how to charge at an EV station. Currently without running an air conditioner, I need to charge my batteries about once every week. https://www.reddit.com/r/VanLife/comments/1t5njn4/how_i_charge_my_batteries_at_a_level_2_ev/

1. I’m insulating my box truck roof, if it’s made of aluminum I have to insulate it
2. P1 and P2 is a 1/2 polypro from lowes. I’m not sure if I should peel the silver wrap off.
3. P3 and P4 is 1/2 foamular NGX from Home Depot. I think I have to peel p3 and p4 off that‘s obvious.
4. I‘m using loctite pl 300, can it bond them to heated aluminum? It’s mid of a day, sun heated the roof
5. Thank you

method 1 is using a step down transformer, to step down 240v AC to 120v AC, I posted here 8 months ago. https://www.reddit.com/r/RVLiving/comments/1n00vlz/how_to_charge_power_stationsbatteries_at_slow/

Now that I have 12V raw batteries, I need a different way to charge them, they only take 13-15v DC current to charge them.

Some EV chargers have a sign says ‘EV only’, ‘while charging’. I have a few suggestions for non-EV charge at EV charger:

1. Try to find a paid charger, if you are paying, your money is good as anyone else’s. It’s like you walk to a gas station with a gas can, they would not refuse you because you don’t drive a car. You are buying electrons with your money
2. Try to find a not busy charger, and go there in night. So you won’t take up other people‘s spots, and you can get a night‘s parking while you are charging.
3. I usually go to charging stations which sell electricity by $/kWh. Those offer free parking while charging. I don’t go to stations charge $/hour, or some other ridiculous pricing.

———————————————————

With background introduced, let’s get into topic.

1. You will need a ‘J1772 to Nema 5-15/5-20 Discharger’ aka ‘EV Station Charging Adapter’. The one I’m using in the picture has 3 heads, and has built in light once powered on. It’s about $30-$50 on Amazon.
2. From outside, it looks like I’m charging my box truck. I cut a hole on my wood floor with a hole saw.
3. P6-p8 are three different way of using 240V AC to charge my batteries/power station/tablet, I will explain them one by one.
4. P6 is a 120v/240v AC to 12V/24V 20A DC smart battery charger. I paid $45 for each unit, it’s $32 on aliexpress now. It can detect if the input is 120v or 240v AC. And output 12v or 24v dc, depending on what voltage the connected battery is. Very smart. It uses Anderson connector, all you have to do is plug in and play.
5. These 12V/24v chargers are usually low powered, 20A/250w, enough to charge my 3500wh battery with 14 hours overnight charging. If your battery is 48V, you might be able to find some higher powered chargers that can go above 1000w.
6. P7 are Anker block chargers, they can actually take 240V as input too. I’m using them to charger my Anker 300DC, tablet, phones, and small power stations.
7. P8 is my good old Delta Pro. It can take both 120v and 240v as input, in the same port, with a same power cord. Very neat design, they don’t force you to buy a different cable to use 240V charging. The other brand wants you to pay $100 to buy a ’special’ cable, if you want to use 240v charging feature. Delta pro won a ew awards back in 2021-2022, it still beats some newer 2025 models from other brands

method 1 is using a step down transformer, to step down 240v AC to 120v AC, I posted here 8 months ago. https://www.reddit.com/r/skoolies/comments/1n00x6h/how_to_charge_power_stationsbatteries_at_slow/

Now that I have 12V raw batteries, I need a different way to charge them, they only take 13-15v DC current to charge them.

Some EV chargers have a sign says ‘EV only’, ‘while charging’. I have a few suggestions for non-EV charge at EV charger:

1. Try to find a paid charger, if you are paying, your money is good as anyone else’s. It’s like you walk to a gas station with a gas can, they would not refuse you because you don’t drive a car. You are buying electrons with your money
2. Try to find a not busy charger, and go there in night. So you won’t take up other people‘s spots, and you can get a night‘s parking while you are charging.
3. I usually go to charging stations which sell electricity by $/kWh. Those offer free parking while charging. I don’t go to stations charge $/hour, or some other ridiculous pricing.

———————————————————

With background introduced, let’s get into topic.

1. You will need a ‘J1772 to Nema 5-15/5-20 Discharger’ aka ‘EV Station Charging Adapter’. The one I’m using in the picture has 3 heads, and has built in light once powered on. It’s about $30-$50 on Amazon. Theoretically you can plug a 120V device into the Nema 5-15 and fry it because it’s actually 240V, just be careful not to do that.
2. From outside, it looks like I’m charging my box truck. I cut a hole on my wood floor with a hole saw.
3. P6-p8 are three different way of using 240V AC to charge my batteries/power station/tablet, I will explain them one by one.
4. P6 is a 120v/240v AC to 12V/24V 20A DC smart battery charger. I paid $45 for each unit, it’s $32 on aliexpress now. It can detect if the input is 120v or 240v AC. And output 12v or 24v dc, depending on what voltage the connected battery is. Very smart. It uses Anderson connector, all you have to do is plug in and play.
5. These 12V/24v chargers are usually low powered, 20A/250w, enough to charge my 3500wh battery with 14 hours overnight charging. If your battery is 48V, you might be able to find some higher powered chargers that can go above 1000w.
6. P7 are Anker block chargers, they can actually take 240V as input too. I’m using them to charger my Anker 300DC, tablet, phones, and small power stations.
7. P8 is my good old Delta Pro. It can take both 120v and 240v as input, in the same port, with a same power cord. Very neat design, they don’t force you to buy a different cable to use 240V charging. The other brand wants you to pay $100 to buy a ’special’ cable, if you want to use 240v charging feature. Delta pro won a ew awards back in 2021-2022, it still beats some newer 2025 models from other brands

method 1 is using a step down transformer, to step down 240v AC to 120v AC, I posted here 8 months ago. https://www.reddit.com/r/VanLife/comments/1n00t9n/how_to_charge_power_stationsbatteries_at_slow/

Now that I have 12V raw batteries, I need a different way to charge them, they only take 13-15v DC current to charge them.

Some EV chargers have a sign says ‘EV only’, ‘while charging’. I have a few suggestions for non-EV charge at EV charger:

1. Try to find a paid charger, if you are paying, your money is good as anyone else’s. It’s like you walk to a gas station with a gas can, they would not refuse you because you don’t drive a car. You are buying electrons with your money
2. Try to find a not busy charger, and go there in night. So you won’t take up other people‘s spots, and you can get a night‘s parking while you are charging.
3. I usually go to charging stations which sell electricity by $/kWh. Those offer free parking while charging. I don’t go to stations charge $/hour, or some other ridiculous pricing.

———————————————————

With background introduced, let’s get into topic.

1. You will need a ‘J1772 to Nema 5-15/5-20 Discharger’ aka ‘EV Station Charging Adapter’. The one I’m using in the picture has 3 heads, and has built in light once powered on. It’s about $30-$50 on Amazon. Theoretically you can plug a 120V device into the Nema 5-15 and fry it because it’s actually 240V, just be careful not to do that.
2. From outside, it looks like I’m charging my box truck. I cut a hole on my wood floor with a hole saw.
3. P6-p8 are three different way of using 240V AC to charge my batteries/power station/tablet, I will explain them one by one.
4. P6 is a 120v/240v AC to 12V/24V 20A DC smart battery charger. I paid $45 for each unit, it’s $32 on aliexpress now. It can detect if the input is 120v or 240v AC. And output 12v or 24v dc, depending on what voltage the connected battery is. Very smart. It uses Anderson connector, all you have to do is plug in and play.
5. These 12V/24v chargers are usually low powered, 20A/250w, enough to charge my 3500wh battery with 14 hours overnight charging. If your battery is 48V, you might be able to find some higher powered chargers that can go above 1000w.
6. P7 are Anker block chargers, they can actually take 240V as input too. I’m using them to charger my Anker 300DC, tablet, phones, and small power stations.
7. P8 is my good old Delta Pro. It can take both 120v and 240v as input, in the same port, with a same power cord. Very neat design, they don’t force you to buy a different cable to use 240V charging. The other brand wants you to pay $100 to buy a ’special’ cable, if you want to use 240v charging feature. Delta pro won a ew awards back in 2021-2022, it still beats some newer 2025 models from other brands

method 1 is using a step down transformer, to step down 240v AC to 120v AC, I posted here 8 months ago. https://www.reddit.com/r/VanLife/comments/1n00t9n/how_to_charge_power_stationsbatteries_at_slow/

Now that I have 12V raw batteries, I need a different way to charge them, they only take 13-15v DC current to charge them.

Some EV chargers have a sign says ‘EV only’, ‘while charging’. I have a few suggestions for non-EV charge at EV charger:

1. Try to find a paid charger, if you are paying, your money is good as anyone else’s. It’s like you walk to a gas station with a gas can, they would not refuse you because you don’t drive a car. You are buying electrons with your money
2. Try to find a not busy charger, and go there in night. So you won’t take up other people‘s spots, and you can get a night‘s parking while you are charging.
3. I usually go to charging stations which sell electricity by $/kWh. Those offer free parking while charging. I don’t go to stations charge $/hour, or some other ridiculous pricing.

———————————————————

With background introduced, let’s get into topic.

1. You will need a ‘J1772 to Nema 5-15/5-20 Discharger’ aka ‘EV Station Charging Adapter’. The one I’m using in the picture has 3 heads, and has built in light once powered on. It’s about $30-$50 on Amazon.
2. From outside, it looks like I’m charging my box truck. I cut a hole on my wood floor with a hole saw.
3. P6-p8 are three different way of using 240V AC to charge my batteries/power station/tablet, I will explain them one by one.
4. P6 is a 120v/240v AC to 12V/24V 20A DC smart battery charger. I paid $45 for each unit, it’s $32 on aliexpress now. It can detect if the input is 120v or 240v AC. And output 12v or 24v dc, depending on what voltage the connected battery is. Very smart. It uses Anderson connector, all you have to do is plug in and play.
5. These 12V/24v chargers are usually low powered, 20A/250w, enough to charge my 3500wh battery with 14 hours overnight charging. If your battery is 48V, you might be able to find some higher powered chargers that can go above 1000w.
6. P7 are Anker block chargers, they can actually take 240V as input too. I’m using them to charger my Anker 300DC, tablet, phones, and small power stations.
7. P8 is my good old Delta Pro. It can take both 120v and 240v as input, in the same port, with a same power cord. Very neat design, they don’t force you to buy a different cable to use 240V charging. The other brand wants you to pay $100 to buy a ’special’ cable, if you want to use 240v charging feature. Delta pro won a ew awards back in 2021-2022, it still beats some newer 2025 models from other brands

OK, I need 15V 3A DC current for my 5g internet gateway/router, it has a usb c port as input.

I think I will need something like p2-p4, which takes 12v or 24v as input, and output PD usb c ports. Let me know if you have a better idea.

Now my question is, should I use a 12v battery or 24v battery?

step up from 12v to 15v

vs

step down from 24v to 15v

Which is more energy efficient? Thank you

1. I paid $60 for the 18 inch tall bed frame on amazon. 18 inch is the tallest I can find. This one has two built in anti-slip baffles. You can add baffles later but those won’t hold compare to built in ones
2. The wood for the frame I used is 1x1x8, I paid $5 each, the cheap $3 ones are not straight. You might be able to cut 1x1 out 2x4, to save some money, if you have a table saw, I only have a circular saw.
3. The wall material I used, is a 5mm 4x8 plywood, it’s about $25-$30. There are thicker ones like 1/2, 3/4, 1 inch ones, I think those are too heavy. Currently it’s hold 200lb-300lb. I might not have to use the 5mm plywood on the side wall, since it’s not holding any weight. I might to use cardboard or mesh for the side wall, to save money and weight.
4. I can ’stand up’ the mattress to access storage area.
5. I want to add a side bar, like the red lines in the last picture, so the water bottles don’t slide out