u/Lex_yeon

1. First is open dog house cover, the bottom two clips have to be rotated to unlock(I have to youtube it). I also cleaned the cover as much as I can it was very greasy, heated/concentrated oil been stuck in the rubber.
2. Take out the resonator, mine is just the hose clamp, 8mm socket. The stand/leg of mine is broken in half. I cleaned it, it’s greasy inside out
3. after removing the resonator, you should be able to see the cover, open it using a screw driver(or a slim metal bar) as a bar
4. The old filter was hold by the cap with 4 teeth, it was hard to take it off, I had to use a flat head screw driver and brutal force it.
5. I drained the fuel bowl with a hand pump, so I can collect the fuel in a bowl.
6. The fuel filter I bought does not match the cover, the hole is too small, I had no choice but drill it bigger
7. There is a metal wire at the bottom of my fuel bowl, it’s out of place. I’m not sure what it is. I didn’t have anyway to fix it. So I just put the fuel filter in and kept driving.

I thought the wire is out of place

This guy says it‘s fuel heater https://youtu.be/gUYvbO04WGM?si=mlFyvL7KtbbsBk4-&t=1118

1. First is open dog house cover, the bottom two clips have to be rotated to unlock(I have to youtube it). I also cleaned the cover as much as I can it was very greasy, heated/concentrated oil been stuck in the rubber.
2. Take out the resonator, mine is just the hose clamp, 8mm socket. The stand/leg of mine is broken in half. I cleaned it, it’s greasy inside out
3. after removing the resonator, you should be able to see the cover, open it using a screw driver(or a slim metal bar) as a bar
4. The old filter was hold by the cap with 4 teeth, it was hard to take it off, I had to use a flat head screw driver and brutal force it.
5. I drained the fuel bowl with a hand pump, so I can collect the fuel in a bowl.
6. The fuel filter I bought does not match the cover, the hole is too small, I had no choice but drill it bigger
7. There is a metal wire at the bottom of my fuel bowl, it’s out of place. I’m not sure what it is. I didn’t have anyway to fix it. So I just put the fuel filter in and kept driving.

1. First is open dog house cover, the bottom two clips have to be rotated to unlock(I have to youtube it). I also cleaned the cover as much as I can it was very greasy, heated/concentrated oil been stuck in the rubber.
2. Take out the resonator, mine is just the hose clamp, 8mm socket. The stand/leg of mine is broken in half. I cleaned it, it’s greasy inside out
3. after removing the resonator, you should be able to see the cover, open it using a screw driver(or a slim metal bar) as a bar
4. The old filter was hold by the cap with 4 teeth, it was hard to take it off, I had to use a flat head screw driver and brutal force
5. I drained the fuel bowl with a hand pump, so I can collect the fuel in a bowl.
6. The fuel filter I bought does not match the cover, the hole is too small, I had no choice but drill it bigger
7. There is a metal wire at the bottom of my fuel bowl, it’s out of place. I’m not sure what it is. I didn’t have anyway to fix it. So I just put the fuel filter in and kept driving.

1. First is open dog house cover, the bottom two clips have to be rotated to unlock(I have to youtube it). I also cleaned the cover as much as I can it was very greasy, heated/concentrated oil been stuck in the rubber.
2. Take out the resonator, mine is just the hose clamp, 8mm socket. The stand/leg of mine is broken in half. I cleaned it, it’s greasy inside out
3. after removing the resonator, you should be able to see the cover, open it using a screw driver(or a slim metal bar) as a bar
4. The old filter was hold by the cap with 4 teeth, it was hard to take it off, I had to use a flat head screw driver and brutal force it.
5. I drained the fuel bowl with a hand pump, so I can collect the fuel in a bowl.
6. The fuel filter I bought does not match the cover, the hole is too small, I had no choice but drill it bigger
7. There is a metal wire at the bottom of my fuel bowl, it’s out of place. I’m not sure what it is. I didn’t have anyway to fix it. So I just put the fuel filter in and kept driving.

I’m having a power loss, https://www.reddit.com/r/Diesel/comments/1uc073j/73_18ft_box_truck_climbing_hill_struggling_what/

I was going to change fuel filter, this is the first time I open dog house cover. I’m not very handy at fixing cars.

4 things I noticed not right

1. It has lots of soot on the walls, on right side. Maybe it’s from the fire last time transmission overheated? I want to clean it up, wash it off and see it came back.
2. Very greasy, black oil everywhere, I want to clean it(maybe spare some degreaser then power wash it?), before any repair.
3. Turbo cover is missing(blue lined), probably not important
4. The supporting bar(P4) for the resonator, is broken. Probably not important either.
5. Bottom side of the turbo, has some grease on it.P5

Other than replace fuel filter, I will also need to check the fuel sending unit, it can clog up too. I will also install a Glowshift fuel pressure gauge on the fuel bowl.

In the picture, I‘m charging my Anker 300dc with my lifepo4 battery

It’s going at 100w, about 8.5 amps. It‘s generating heat, pushing the anker 300dc over 41C(healthy temp is <40c)

I can not set the charging speed on my Anker 300dc

It’s DC not AC by the way(Is AC easier for controlling amp)

Thank you

basically turn it into a plug in and play device like my Garmin GPS, dash cam, radar detector.

1. connect the red and yellow lines to the positive of the car cigarette plug
2. connect black line of gauge and black line of temp sensor(after extending 8ft-10ft) to the negative of the car cigarette plug.
3. connect white line of temp sensor(after extending 8ft-10ft) to green line

Done. The rest is how to organize wires(zip ties and duct tape)

Here is the official video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YO9SGxUUO2c

Official video used about 3 minutes to explain how to remove panels, splice, fuse, engine bay, firewall. Probably going to take an hour for the whole. My method can get connection part done in 5 minutes, with a $2.78 car cigarette plug.

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My V1 is here https://www.reddit.com/r/Diesel/comments/1ubdbn4/glowshift_transmission_temp_gauge_amateur/

My V1 stopped working properly, I think the connection from black ground wire of temp sensor, to my car frame, stopped working. Basically ground is not connected, reported a false 260F.

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What can be improved:

1. For the wire connectors next to the temp sensor, I‘m thinking using a reusable connector, like Anderson connector. So it will be easier next time I have to uninstall. I had to cut the old butt connectors off.

Fuel rate reflects how hard I step on gas pedal.

My newly installed transmission temp gauge is at >260F Dashed out due to false reading

Steer axle 3560lb, drive axle 9100lb

I will provide slope if necessary|

#1 understanding each wires function, the gauge has 5 wires, manual is vague.

Per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lj08hY6nj_Q

Yellow is memory line, connect to positive, need to be always on if you want it to remember settings. I don’t need it to remember settings.

Red is engine key turn line, connect to positive, it turn the gauge on when engine is turned on. So I connect both Red and Yellow to my lifepo4 battery positive.

Orange is headlight line, it dims the screen when orange line is on(when headlight is on in night). I don’t need it, orange line is not used.

Black line is connected to lifepo4 battery negative(Lifepo4 Battery ground)

Green line is the commutation line from temp sensor to gauge(‘s white line).

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#2 tools needed

crimper

14mm open-end wrench for the sensor with wire(socket won’t work due to wire in the way)

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#3 materials needed not provided by Glowshift

Teflon tape

about 20-30ft wire, I think the wire comes with it is 18 gauge, I upped to 12 gauge.

wire connectors

wire terminals(I used 3 ring terminals this time)

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#4 installation, kind of straightforward, if you look at the pictures. I avoid all the car fuse panel wiring, engine bay and firewall

worth noting, P4 the sensor can screw in the test plug hole(after apply teflon tape), no adapter needed. P5 sensor black line connect to Car’s ground, not lifepo4 negative. Would that be a problem?

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#5 todo

Wire black, red&yellow lines into a car cigarette lighter. To save length of wires, ease of usage(plug in the gauge like a Garmin GPS)

Buy a gauge holder

Add a fuse

Should I replace

#glow plug relays(how many are there?)

#all 8 of the glow plugs? Or only the bad ones

Thank you

P1 green parts are national forest, brown part is national park(no camping)

P2 is the satellite map, could not see any road, I did see something at 35°48'40.5"N 83°12'10.4"W, but it looks like a private road/land

ioverland doesnot have anything in the area for the national forest which is weird

I just received it, trying to put it on today.

I’m watching their installation video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YO9SGxUUO2c

Two problems I noticed(two things are missing for the installation)

#1, Teflon tape

#2, It only comes with 2ft wires, that’s not going to be enough

I don’t think I need the bracket, or the fuse line(it will be connected to my lifepo4 battery not the car battery), technically it can work without these, I will get a fuse later if I have to.

I’m thinking

#1 the red circled test plug, looks easy for the plug part on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YO9SGxUUO2c , for the wiring part I’m thinking about using a lifepo4 battery as power supply, to keep things easy and isolated. I don’t want to have to mess with car’s wiring.

#2 blue circled drain plug(will need a matching thread adapter)

#3 inlet/outlet of transmission oil cooler so I can see how much the cooler can cool down. Will need two inline hose adapters, something like this https://www.jegs.com/i/Mishimoto/690/MMWHS-32-BK/10002

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It got overheated last trip, overdrive light started flashing, thanks god it did I stopped immediately, I saw transmission oil was dripping out of the seal fast. Usually it was just one drop a time. I put some transmission fluid in and rest for half hour and kept going.

I replaced oil filter, oil pan, and seal. So far I didn’t see leaking. And error code didn’t come back.

It’s a box truck, so it’s about 9000lb empty. It was about 15000lb last week driving on uphill and downhill, maybe it’s too much weight for E4OD?

The transmission oil cooler is about 11x11, mounted in front of radiator. Maybe I can upgrade it.

How do I know if my torque converter is broken or not?