u/M9ADE-Killer

My Sony X90L is connected to an Onkyo 575E amplifier. For the past two months, I’ve been having issues with ARC when using the TV built in apps.

Whenever I switch from one of the Onkyo’s inputs to a TV app, the Onkyo display changes to TV, indicating that it has switched to ARC. However there is no sound. The only way to get the audio back is to restart the TV and Amp multiple times. Sometimes it works after 2–5 restarts, while other times even 10 consecutive restarts don’t fix the issue.

To troubleshoot, I tried isolating the problem to determine whether it was caused by the TV or the amplifier. Without going into all the details, I found that the TV appears to be the source of the issue.

Whenever I disconnect the TV HDMI cables from ports 1 and 2, leaving only the amplifier connected to HDMI port 3 (ARC/eARC), then restart the TV ARC starts working immediately.

What’s confusing is that sometimes everything works perfectly even with all HDMI ports connected, which makes the issue even more confusing.

Audio Settings on TV:
eArc off not Auto since I’m using ARC (tried both).
Audio pass through set to Auto.
And all other settings that has on or off are set to off.

My Sony X90L is connected to an Onkyo 575E amplifier. For the past two months, I’ve been having issues with ARC when using the TV built in apps.

Whenever I switch from one of the Onkyo’s inputs to a TV app, the Onkyo display changes to TV, indicating that it has switched to ARC. However there is no sound. The only way to get the audio back is to restart the TV and Amp multiple times. Sometimes it works after 2–5 restarts, while other times even 10 consecutive restarts don’t fix the issue.

To troubleshoot, I tried isolating the problem to determine whether it was caused by the TV or the amplifier. Without going into all the details, I found that the TV appears to be the source of the issue.

Whenever I disconnect the TV HDMI cables from ports 1 and 2, leaving only the amplifier connected to HDMI port 3 (ARC/eARC), then restart the TV ARC starts working immediately.

What’s confusing is that sometimes everything works perfectly even with all HDMI ports connected, which makes the issue even more confusing.

Audio Settings on TV:
eArc off not Auto since I’m using ARC (tried both).
Audio pass through set to Auto.
And all other settings that has on or off are set to off.

My Sony X90L is connected to an Onkyo 575E amplifier. For the past two months, I’ve been having issues with ARC when using the TV built in apps.

Whenever I switch from one of the Onkyo’s inputs to a TV app, the Onkyo display changes to TV, indicating that it has switched to ARC. However there is no sound. The only way to get the audio back is to restart the TV and Amp multiple times. Sometimes it works after 2–5 restarts, while other times even 10 consecutive restarts don’t fix the issue.

To troubleshoot, I tried isolating the problem to determine whether it was caused by the TV or the amplifier. Without going into all the details, I found that the TV appears to be the source of the issue.

Whenever I disconnect the TV HDMI cables from ports 1 and 2, leaving only the amplifier connected to HDMI port 3 (ARC/eARC), then restart the TV ARC starts working immediately.

What’s confusing is that sometimes everything works perfectly even with all HDMI ports connected, which makes the issue even more confusing.

Audio Settings on TV:
eArc off not Auto since I’m using ARC (tried both).
Audio pass through set to Auto.
And all other settings that has on or off are set to off.

I just got my controller three days ago, and I’ve noticed that the LT (L2) button sometimes doesn’t register during fights. When that happens, I can’t aim and end up hip firing. If I have the chance I can unlock the trigger and lock it again, and then it starts working back again.

I’m using the trigger lock/quick trigger mode. I’ve already tried adjusting the trigger dead zone from 0 to 5 to 10, but the issue still happens. I’ve also updated the controller to the latest firmware.

Anything to try or should I go ahead and return it?

You’re planning to use thicker oil after the rebuild, so you increase clearances and select the proper bearings for the mains, rods, and camshaft. Now what about connecting rod side clearance? Let’s say the specs call for 0.07–0.35 mm using OEM oil, for example 5W-30. If you switch to 5W-50, shouldn’t that be an issue and the side clearances be increased as well?

I haven’t played either, and I’m planning to play one of the two but I’m not sure which one to get. I’m sure each story is different, and you probably don’t need to play Tsushima before Yotei, but I’m just curious which is better or more worthwhile.

Thank you.

I got the Shield Pro device and never used the built-in apps besides Kodi. Recently, I started using Netflix and Apple TV on the device instead of the TV’s built-in apps.

I noticed that whenever I watch Dolby Vision content, it feels laggy during fast moving scenes. It’s hard to explain, almost like motion is slowed down or not smooth. However, Dolby Vision playback through Kodi is perfectly fine. So at this point, I’m sure it’s not the HDMI cable or the TV’s Dolby Vision picture settings.

The built-in streaming apps also don’t seem to have any settings to tweak or adjust. My Nvidia Shield is connected to my Onkyo amp, then to the TV, and whenever I’m watching Dolby Vision content on both apps, the Onkyo info page shows 23Hz RGB 24-bit.

Any thoughts or input would be appreciated.

I’m about to buy a new 27” 1440p gaming monitor and I’ve narrowed it down to these two:

Asus VG27AQ5A
LG 27G610AB

Main use is competitive gaming only. I’ve never owned a monitor before, so this will be my first one. I use a console, so I don’t need more than 120Hz. I would really appreciate any insight or input.

Thank you

Mopar Hemi Gen 3, I did two things at once, and now I can’t tell whether the issue is mechanical or related to the new oil viscosity. I removed the valve cover to inspect the valvetrain and took out the rocker arms and pushrods on the passenger side to check something out after my rebuild. I then reinstalled everything exactly as it was. After that I drained the oil and switched from 5W50 to 5W40.

Now I’ve noticed that my idle oil pressure has dropped compared to before removing the cover and changing the oil. Previously it was about 35 psi at idle with the engine at operating temperature now it’s around 30 psi and kisses 29 psi.

However, under heavy acceleration I’m seeing higher pressure than before the opposite of what’s happening at idle. I used to get around 70 psi with 5W50, and now I’m seeing about 81 psi with 5W40.

Is it normal to have lower idle pressure but higher pressure under heavy throttle just because of the oil change, or could I have done something wrong?

Thank you