u/MDOT_SHOOTA

The dust cap in the speaker in the dashboard of my 2003 Lexus has detached.

I read you can use PVA wood glue to reattach. I found this stuff but the safety data sheet says 0.1-1% boric acid. Also it dries hard, is this really a good option? The surrounding foam probably doesn't have another 2 decades left anyway.

Do I even need this dust cap? There is a soft mesh covering the speaker and then a hard mesh over that. But the dust cap is so big I think it affects the sound?

From what I understand, the tube is press-fit into the aluminum so I have to replace the whole assembly. And in order to do that I have to remove the intake manifold. I recently pulled the intake manifold to do knock sensors and it sucked.

Is it possible to replace it without removing the intake manifold? How long can I put it off? It doesn't really leak out of that area just gets wet every time I drive

Editing to shorten in the hopes someone will actually read it.

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The amp from my 2003 Lexus was working but had leaking caps so I decided to replace the big ones.

One of the pads lifted on one of the 10 filter caps. I mistakenly assumed the lifted pad connected to the visible ground plane like the two identical capacitors beside it so I added a bodge wire. But I was wrong as it turns out it actually connects to a different internal plane.

When I powered it on it blew the car's fuse. Then I found and fixed the capacitor mistake.

When I powered it on again it was working but stinky, turns out one of the power MOSFETs blew. I guess it had already failed internally when I powered it on the first time.

How to proceed? Should I check/replace any parts other than the blown MOSFET?

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Found 2 bulged/leaked power supply capacitors in the Mark Levinson amp in my 2003 Lexus so I undertook replacing all the big ones (4x 16v 4700uf, 10x 50v 1200uf). Got Nichicon UHW I was so excited.

Had a hard time desoldering the caps, tried my desoldering gun and it lifted the pad. So I scratched off the solder mask beside it and connected it to the ground (?) plane like the ones beside it. (Pic 2) Turns out half of these (filtering?) caps don't actually connect to this plane so when I plugged it in it it played a high pitched noise for about 10 sec before blowing the car's fuse.

I replaced the fuse and disconnected that capacitor from that plane, added a jumper to nearby capacitor sharing the correct plane in case the connection within PCB was weak (since it's missing it's pad). (Pic 3) Plugged it in again and it was working but I turned it off after about 30 sec because smelled burning.

This time one of the power MOSFETs blew. (Pic 1) I guess it had failed internally from the first fail? When I was correcting my mistake I saw 12ohm across the power capacitors, after blowing and removing the MOSFET it is much higher.

I am making this post to ask how would you proceed? Obviously I need to replace this MOSFET, should I replace the other 3 as well? (Pic 4 shows more of the amp; failed MOSFET is second in the left group of 4. I think those 4 and the 4 caps below them are part of the power supply circuit?) Any other parts?

Thanks in advance. This could have been avoided if I hadn't rushed it, I should have known better. Should have more carefully checked if it actually connects to that plane. Could have also caught it if I had measured resistance across the capacitors (it was 0 due to the wrong connection). Learn from my mistake and take things slow!

Unrelated questions:

I later found a small capacitor has leaked too. (Pic 5) I guess I need to replace these too? There are 16 of this size on the board.

Some of the nasty juice seems to have crept under the conformal coating and begun corroding small parts. (Pic 6) Worth removing coating and cleaning? How to remove coating? Should I reinstall a coating?

Now I wonder about the rest of the electronics in the car...

Got this Taylor about a week ago, I read it doesn't like afternoon sun so I put it beside a vertical trellis. This obscures afternoon sun but not noon.

I noticed some leaf edges are dying and possibly some branch tips but not sure (I think previous guy was snipping them).

Is this still too much sun or a different issue?

City of Toronto zone 6b (USDA 5b?)

Going to finally learn sewing, I have a couple vintage beauties to choose from. This one looks quite basic, what exactly would I be missing? Compared to say a Kenmore 158.19412

Anyone know which car this rim is from? I can't find it anywhere. Seller said 2017 Forte but I don't see any pics with these. Also the tires are 2013

Alignment shop couldn't get my rear toe in spec and couldn't explain why. It would appear the frame bracket bent inwards and the washer went over it. I hammered it roughly back to shape and the adjustment seems to be functioning when I turn the bolt. It is pretty messy though.

Now I am wondering, if I go get it aligned again, what's holding the bolt in the resulting position? Surely not just the tension from the 36 ft-lbs alignment bolt? There are protrusions on the frame bracket for both sides of the washer, is it supposed to be nestled by both of them? Then, if there's still any gap at all, which there does appear to be, won't it bounce around and fall apart? Some people put aftermarket toe arms that adjust via lock nuts, how are they supposed to be fastened to the frame?

If the tension is enough, couldn't the shop have just twisted the bolt counterclockwise, using the tab on the other side of the frame?

There are two separate problems.

Driver side: The car had been in a collision and it appears a few metal seams busted open and are now letting in water. What are my options to seal these? I am thinking about welding but then would need to reglue part of the trunk seal

Passenger side: The leak is at the bottom corner of the windshield. There's some weirdness in the glue there but the windshield is OEM, maybe original? I don't see a hole there but when I spray water at it it leaks. How can I go about resealing this part? Winters are cold here