r/audiorepair

I bought the cheapest three head cassette deck I've ever seen nearby, but pretty sure the seller probably found it in the dump lol. It's really dirty and has obvious issues. But it's an Onkyo and I'd like to attempt to save it.

When switched on, The lights turn on but then turn off immediately/buttons don't do anything.. Which led me to look around the board and see this sketchy capacitor that hopefully is the cause.

I've never bought a capacitor and looking online I haven't been able to find one with exact specifications. Does anybody have one to sell, or can help lead me to where to find one?

Thank you kindly for any help.

I am working on a Yamaha CR 620. I have posted about it a couple of times. Someone else tried to work on it and they trashed a lot of traces on the right channel. They had components bent over to span gaps, and gobs of solder holding it all together . I decided I was spinning my wheels trying to diagnose the problem when there were so many questionable connections.

So, I decided to desolder some of what looked questionable and repair the board if I could. Can I get some feed back on what I'm doing? I'm slow as can be at doing this and if i'm not doing it right I'd like to know now!

The first pic is what I walked into, the second is after I desoldered some things and the third is a few repairs I've tried to make. Am I in the ballpark?

I’ve been working on repairing these 3000H diaphragms for my Altec Sevilles. I’m getting a good signal reading across literally everything and OL from post to post after connecting the tensile. The tensiles read fine up to diaphragm, and the diaphragm lead outs (picture 2) read fine as well. It’s driving me nuts, it’s this potentially a microscopic irreparable issue inside the voice coil? If it was in the voice coil why would the lead outs from the voice coil not read OL??

Could someone please help me or drop some ideas how can i fix that

Hello! I just picked up this Kenwood KR-3600, and i’m finding that it sends way more signal (particularly bass) to the left side rather than the right. The balance knob feels like a really poor solution to this, especially with the lacking bass on the right side. I’ve tried multiples audio sources and inputs, wiring my speakers to the b side rather than the a side, i’ve tried new speaker wire altogether, nothing seems to help. Any suggestions? Do i need to get it serviced? Am I screwed? Thanks in advance!

I was listening to music, and all of a sudden, it made a loud pop. Screen works perfectly fine. No noise comes from the speaker, its absolute silent.

I don't see where the issue is?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Hi all, hope there’s some oldies in here 😂

Trying to fix a loose connection on a Pioneer DJM500’s headphone socket and the “Assign B” crossfader knob is stuck solid, so I can’t get the faceplate off to get to anything else.

I’ve tried wiggling it for probably an hour now and it won’t budge, starting to think it must’ve been superglued by someone in its life.

Any recommendations on how to get this off without breaking anything? Every other knob/fader/screw came off without a problem…

Thanks 🫡

This is/was a non-functional power switch for an old Kenwood KT-7500 tuner and I have a two-part question.

1. can someone describe how to reassemble this thing? I took it apart because it wouldn’t stay engaged and power didn’t come on even when held in the “on” position. As I lifted the tabs holding the toggle part to the plastic housing, it all just fell apart in my hand before I could see how things should be oriented. I fumbled with it for quite a while and can’t seem to get it back together right.

2. if that doesn’t work, can I just bypass the switch entirely and plug the unit into a switched outlet on my amp? I don’t know the function of the orange goober soldered to the switch, so I’m concerned that leaving it out might cause a problem.

Thanks!

A few days ago, my Sunfire XTEQ 12 subwoofer gave up.

It powers on normally, but as soon as an input signal is applied, it automatically shuts itself off. No fuse or circuit breaker trips. I removed and tested the driver, and it works perfectly fine.

Maybe someone has a circuit diagram for this unit or a great idea what the problem could be and could give me a few tips. Throwing it away now would simply be far too much of a shame!

None of the capacitors look swollen or burst, and all the fuses appear to be fine.

Please, please help me save this beauty!

My kid pushed in the center dust caps on my Bowers & Wilkins DM580 floorstanding speakers. The cones themselves don’t look torn, but the middle domes/caps are visibly dented in.

I’m trying to figure out:

1. Are these just dust caps, or do they affect the sound on this model?

2. Is this usually fixable with vacuum/tape, or should I remove the drivers and try from the inside?

3. What is the safest method to pull them back out without damaging the voice coil or cone?

4. If the caps remain creased, is that mostly cosmetic, or does it reduce sound/value?

5. What signs should I listen for to know if the driver is actually damaged?

The speakers still play, but I haven’t pushed them hard yet. I bought the pair for around €120, so I’d really like to save them if possible.

Photo attached. Any advice from people who have repaired pushed-in dust caps before would be appreciated.

I recently dug up this Goldstar compact music disk center out of my dad’s shed and I was trying out the record player on the top, and I noticed it sounded sped up a little, so check the rpm on the turntable and it was going at around 35rpm when it should be 33 1/3. I was looking around and researching if there was any way of adjusting this to the correct speed and I’m struggling to find anything on this specific model. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Same old BS story from seller, “Selling my SX-580 receiver, can’t test as I don’t have the speaker blades”. Then what were you using then buddy. Anyway, I do have them. So got it set up and had audio on right channel but very faint on the left with a light crackle. Checked the protection fuses and left was actually missing. So bleed through from a probably shorted output transistors. Went to take off the cover and bottom plate, missing some screws. Oh joy, someone went where they shouldn’t have.

Went straight to the four output transistors to see which one wasn’t playing nice and found the bad one in 15 seconds. Replaced it, put in new fuses and it plays perfect. I was bored and because I had all the hardware I updated the amplifier and power supply boards capacitors and all transistors. Threw in a good cleaning and some new LEDs and she ready for eBay again.