Working on an old Sharp boom box. Audio cuts out when jostled. I suspect this ribbon cable from the power supply because you can't see it but it's fraying on one side.
Trouble is the spare wire I found is significantly larger. The 24 gauge is a lot larger than the OG wire. Am I still good to swap the wires or should I match the gauge?
Maybe I am being paranoid but figured it doesn't hurt to verify.
I've got a couple old 80's style boomboxes that are perfectly functional but they look rough as heck that I got on the cheap to fix up and resell.
At what point would you say "Screw it!" with keeping the outside original on this stuff?
On the one hand I feel like someone would absolutely adore an 80's style boombox in like, purple or red or green or something fun.
From a practical standpoint, the two I'm looking at? They're pretty far gone. Nail polish scratched paint, horrendously yellowed plastic, permanent marker, etc.
I could put painter's tape over speakers, tuner plastic, and the control markings (that are thankfully clear) and leave those as silver accents, then do the rest up in something funky and fun.
On the other hand, the preservationist in me balks at that. Still, I gotta do something to them to make them presentable because I want these devices to go to people to enjoy and have fun.
Thoughts? I'm torn tbh.
First 3D printer so apologies for the noobery.
I removed the heat block and nozzle to clean off the heat block and replace the nozzle but now I have a problem.
The heat block isn't thick enough to screw both the nozzle and the tube.
This is probably a noob question but I don't trust the original threading considering I got it with a clogged nozzle.
How far should I screw each piece in? Or is the metal piece on thebtube inside the heating element the wrong length or something like that?
Picked up this little boombox to fix. Was like $7. Heard rattling.
I was like "bet the wheel on the back of the idle mechanism came apart." Lo and behold, lol.
I have had mixed results gluing them and usually just use a scrap part but that requires scrap parts to draw on.
I don't suppose anyone knows the name of this part so I can see if any iterations are available as 3D models? Haven't had any luck so far.
I'm working on an old Beocord and I cannot for the life of me find idle tires for it. Fixyouraudio didn't have them and searching online came up empty. (And mostly just showed vehicle tire results)
It's got one around each reel and another on the back. The reel tire measures 20x14x2.3 and the one on the back measures 17x13x2.3 but I cannot for the life of me find an idle tire online with those specifications, nor can I find a listing for Beocord idle tires.
I also searched leaving 2.3 off in case that wasn't specific enough but no dice.
Any thoughts on where I can source idle tires that will fit this dang thing? Any help at all would be wonderful.
I'm circling back to finish a repair for a friend's DS now that they're getting hinges for it. (That was the initial issue but they then ordered a shell with no hinges. LOL. )
Anyhow, we got a replacement ribbon cable and I snitched a replacement antenna cord off of some other junk device but it's waaaaay too long. Like, it's the same connector and style wire but it's AT LEAST a foot and a half long.
I want to cut it to length. From what I can glean online, the length is going to relate to the frequency but I'm struggling to find specific info. I'd measure the old one but it got warped during the break in such a way that I can't tell if it is missing part of it or whether it appears longer than it should be, etc.
Anyone know how long Nintendo DS antenna wires should be?
Update from my previous post! I spent a couple nice afternoons on the side step cleaning and prepping the woofer. Glue was an adventure to clean off my fingers, but I got it done!
I still have to put in insulation in them because they literally don't have any. I also have the Ultralinear Disco Monitor 265 woofers waiting to be refoamed.
In the meantime, they're nice, loud, and fun! I'm very satisfied with the results!
I have a Unitech CX-470 boombox I got for $5 from an estate sale. It's a really cool unit. I got the cassette player working, cleaned it up/out, fixed the tuner string when it came loose, etc.
Now I have a situation where the level meter isn't working right. One side stays at max while the other doesn't show anything.
There are four wires going to the meter. I'm getting about 14v across red and black and about 4.5v, bouncing around, across brown and orange..
My first thought is that black and red are for the right side and getting too much voltage while the other pair is working fine I just have the volume too low to show on the meters.
That said, I can't find a service manual.
Thoughts?
Edit: maybe I can put it on a power supply and provide 5ish vdc to the side that's getting 14, crank it up slowly, see what voltage range will show the level varying? Go from there once I have an idea of what voltage range is expected?
second edit: the one side is working correctly now, it's varying when the ladt LEDs light up but the right side still lights all of them no matter what.
Thinking I will circle later, compare what's going into and coming out of the two ICs driving the LEDs and maybe check the caps on the main board after that if there isn't something obviously wrong with a chip
I'm currently trying to set the level meter for recording on a Nakamichi BX-1. It says to feed in a test tone of 400hz at 90mv -.9dB.
Two problems.
Educated guess is that I need an AC milivolt meter and a better tone generator, but I thought I would ask in case I am missing something. I cannot for the life of me find anything explicitly stating the relationship between, say, volume settings on a device and the dB of the signal it is outputting.
Is there something big dumb and obvious that I am missing or is it really just a matter of needing more equipment?
The only markings on this DC motor from a Panasonic RQ-SW10 are the following:
MHXN-3A3LDBT
19SEPT96Z11
I can't find anything online but given that it's getting about 1.6vdc when in play mode, I would guess it's a 3v motor.
I cracked open the motor and cleaned the brushes but accidentally scored the magnet. I suspect this will make the motor unbalanced and renders that one FUBAR. (Lemme know if that assumption is wrong please!)
I salvaged another motor of the same form factor that also doesn't have any useful markings, threw it in, and it runs way slower. I got a donor/comparison unit working and the difference definitely seems to be the motor so I suspect the donor motor is 6v or 9v.
Here's what I was thinking. The main difference between the motors is the winding, correct? Could I swap the center part out, or would the brushes/magnet differ enough to make it not feasible?
Mostly wanted to double-check before I potentially brick another motor.
I have a really cool Sharp WQ-T222 boombox with a super unique mechanism. I managed to fix the initial issue it had where a plastic piece atop a spring came loose but as soon as that was fixed the motor stopped running.
I traced it back to the switch pictured. I cleaned it with iso soaked paper till nothing came off but it's still super finicky and only works about a fourth of the time.
What are my options? I would love to get this thing working again. Is there something else I can do to make the switch work or should I replace the switch, and if replacing is needed, what is the specific name of the component/where would I start looking for a replacement?
I don't know if anyone else is interested, but IDK I thought the way they did the dual tape deck is so friggin neat. I haven't seen anything else like it yet. Figured maybe one or two other nerds would also appreciate seeing it before I finish cleaning it up, getting it running, and closing it back up again.
I usually sell the ones I fix because I like getting them off to other people to enjoy but I am genuinely tempted to keep this one for myself just because it's so unique, you know?
I got a walkman that ran fast. Opened it up and the speed pot had literally fallen apart. See pics for potentiometer dimensions based on my calipers.
Got a second one to try to snitch the part and it has the same issue.
How exact do the measurements of the new pots need to be? I was looking at these ones but any advice on confirming fit before I buy would be appreciated:
I'm fixing a work friend's DS; the hinge broke along with the ribbon cable and this other cord. They ordered a new shell and replacement ribbon cable and I could pull a spare wire out of my stash but I was wondering, before I go to the trouble, is it still used?
I know they can't onnect to modern networks but I'm not sure if it's also used to let them talk to each other directly or whether there are other things you can still do that rely on the antenna.
Trying to wrap my head around calibration. This service manual mentioned a V.T.V.M. which google says is a vacuum tube voltmeter. Looks like it wants me to output the voltimeter readings to the scope but I don't have a meter that has that sort of output.
What's the workaround here?
edit: damm typo. Won't let me edit the title
I was dumb. The front of the boombox fell forward, dragging rhe connector with it. The connector snapped off.
Is there a way to salvage this? Maybe soldering tiny wires between the connector contacts and the contacts on the board? Are there any steps I should take to secure/reinforce it if I do that or is there a better option?
NOTE: the last couple connectors weren't used. There's nothing there and I don't see any wires sticking out of the unused pristine soldering pads for them like I see for the other contacts.
Context: I'm trying to repair a couple boomboxes but a couple of them have broken pieces. The first one has a little black catch and the second one has some more obvious bits. Trouble is different types require different glues.
Note that the black crap on the second one was from some plastic molding kit someone recommended but it doesn't stay malleable long enough and it also doesn't do a good enough job affixing the two sides of the break back together so I abandoned that endeavor.
I've tried looking online and on Reddit but I can't find any details listed; what type of plastic is this? Also any information on commonly used plastic types in boomboxes in general would be amazing since I would love to learn more and do a better job of understanding the materials used and how to best work with them.
Got an old boombox with a couple buttons that have seen better days. It sounds like plastic glue is the pro move here but I was wondering, what kind? It sounds like I will want to choose based on the plastic but I don't have any experience identifying various plastic types.
Any assistance would be amazing!
I'm super new to speakers and can't find info on them.
update: grabbed the pair and their covers!
Edit: Love how everyone is like "yes!" until after I get them, LMFAO. Ah well, I'll make the best of it.
I saw them on AliExpress and Ebay and I was curious but I can't find any information on them.
Are they pointless novelty junk or are they actually useful, and if useful, how are they used?