This is the fluid removed from my T8 ERAD 3 after 60k KMs
I'll try 30k interval next time and see what it looks like before deciding on final service interval which I suspect will land at 45k. It's probably the hardest working fluid in the car and Volvos sealed for life approach doesn't stack up IMO
Not expensive to have it replaced, even at a dealer. $90AUD for fluid and half hour labour, also $90
Cab chassis sitting on dealer lot showing rust around these bolts. Not ideal long term and would be easily avoided. Rangers and Dmax on same lot had no rust in equivalent places
When online shopping try adding 5, 10, 15, 20 after the following in the apply code section
WELCOME
TEAM
GET
HELLO
STAFF
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If you can be bothered going through the process you'd be surprised how often one of these works
If anyone is wondering if these are compatible I can confirm they are, only with modification. The interference was too much, attempting to press the unmodified bush in would have likely split the mount.
Cutting across the metal shell of the bush with thinnest grinder cutoff wheel allowed it to be inserted into the mount as an easy DIY with no special tools, just a hammer and some wood scraps.
It's tight enough that it won't move, similar to the supplied garagistic poly bush.
If you're wanting to know why, the strategy is to securely locate the diff and take load off the factory body mounts without introducing additional NVH from driveline
If I had a metal lathe an alternative option would be to skim the outside of the bush by approx 0.2-0.3mm but that would have removed the corrosion protection.
Hopefully this helps anyone that might be considering this combo
Are these rear alignment specs ok, specifically rear toe?
Replacing subframe and RTAB soon, people talk a lot about adding alignment adjustment after lowering but to me this looks ok as is. It would be a significant additional expense, and work, and then you have the issue of it going out of alignment
Street car, mountain roads but no auto X etc. lowered on HR sports. I think rear camber isn't reading correctly as I ground a few mm out of rim lip on one side due to savage gutter rash. Digital level puts it more like -2.3 both sides, which aligns with visual impression. Either way I'm not worried about tire wear.
What would be the recommended interval for changing ERAD fluid in a 2023 XC60 T8?
Mostly driven in pure, no towing or super high speed driving.
Have 60k km service coming up and wondering if it's too early? Transmission fluid is scheduled for 90k km according to Volvo but that feels a bit long to wait for ERAD which is doing a lot of the heavy lifting.
With the design direction new cars are taking it's looking more likely I will keep this one for up to 10 years/300k km. I'm happy to Invest in preventative maintenance but don't want to be excessive if it's not warranted
Looking at a regional role with DQ, location isn't optimal but they will talent pool suitable applicants for future roles.
Is that pool likely to be within that region only or potentially used for recruitment in other areas?
Current old oven is on the fritz, have tried unsuccessfully to get a sparky out for a power assessment so hoping to get some guidance here before next week. Electric oven, grill and cooktop
1 - is there a way to extend an oven power feed by a couple of meters or does it require a full new run back to the meter board?
2 - is there any way to know how many amps the current feed is? The circuit is unmarked and can't see any markings on the heavy gauge orange sheathed cable. Total max draw of current oven is 9200w according to the circuit diagram on the back. 1990s model oven from what I can tell but the feed may predate that back to mid 70s build date .
To be clear to the AI moderator, I'm not asking advice on how to conduct unlicenced electrical work
I have a 2023 T8 with air suspension. Getting savage inner shoulder wear at the front and moderate at the rear. Local shop said alignment was pretty good last time I had it in but planning to take it to dealership or their recommended specialist
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For my understanding what is adjustable from factory?
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Front toe
Front camber
Front caster
Rear toe
Rear camber
Thrust angle
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Haven't been able to find anything definitive
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Thanks
Wondering what options there are to tidy this monstrosity up? Mostly the tap arrangement
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Left is hot to washing machine, right is cold to washing machine and temporarily to dishwasher until there is space for it in kitchen Reno.
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Wall would be A* so not keen to change any hidden plumbing
Currently running around -2.3 rear and -1.7 front on HR sport springs. Front strut mounts are on the way out so I expect fresh mounts might land around -1.6
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Wondering if it's worth installing adjustable camber plates to bring the fronts to around -2.5 for spirited mountain road driving? Or current specs are ok and not worth the extra cost? Don't do enough km for tire wear to be a concern
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Looking at Ireland engineering adjustable street camber plates with factory rubber mounts and drop hats to keep ride height the same
My sway bar links are pretty cooked and the car is lowered on HR sport plus E90 drop hats at front.
Figured I should move to adjustable links when replacing them and dial in preload/angle but prices are insane, like $240USD plus international shipping and unfavorable exchange rate. I don't mind spending where needed but I'm not seeing what justifies the cost in this case.
Is there a cheaper option I'm missing? Not against making some changes to brackets or whatever to accommodate a different style of link.
325i convertible with control arm mounted links in front, not strut mounted. Planning to keep factory sway bars and replace the mounting bushes with poly
One of my rubber strut mounts is cracking so figured it's a good opportunity to look at camber/caster adjustment mounts. Would like better RTC mainly
Street driven on fairly rough roads and 16s so definitely need some urethane/rubber in there.
Interested in opinions on kmac vs ground control. Kmac looks to have more compliance and cheaper but GC has independent adjustment and dual bearings. Will likely never wear them out.
Also is it even worth it overall for a street driven car? Lots of mountain roads around here, I generally don't drive super hard but like handling to be responsive. HR sport and Bilstein B6 or B8 (can't remember)
Is there another option I should look at?
Thanks
Note Kmac price is AUD and GC is USD. kmac is significantly cheaper
Bridgestone has recently released the new Potenza RE005 in 15 and 16 inch sizes that would fit e30, including 7/8 wide staggered setups on 16s
Reviews and pricing are both good. Shame there is no 205/55r15 but any UHP tire releases on a 15 is a win
What's the best method for attaching these panels to painted a plasterboard wall?
I'd normally use a large version of the adhesive backed Velcro type fasteners in the last photo but thinking the adhesive won't attach well to the open cell foam
Australian market, non cross flow straight 6 by the look of it
Can anyone suggest an appropriate stripper for this delightful mission brown paint? Wanting to take the bathroom door frame (maple) and window (cedar) back to timber as a feature.
Presumably an oil based paint applied in the mid 1970s.
Or since we will be sanding anyway should I skip the strip and just sand it off?
The paper layer on 50 year old plasterboard bathroom ceiling is cracking/ peeling presumably from moisture.
How do I deal with this?
Have scraped back and skim coated the worst of it (visible on left, unsanded) but now it's creeping further
Is there some kind of light sealant undercoat I could use before repainting ceiling?
Playing motorfest and having real trouble being competitive in some off-road races even at low difficulty.
I don't seem to be able to keep speed up enough without spinning out or ploughing or overcorrecting when putting down power. Especially bad is the muscle car in race 2 of the Hollywood playlist and anything using the KTM ATV
Tried comfort settings of ECS and traction control but didn't make a noticeable difference
Playing on a wheel
Any pointers?