Fun Fact: Some CD Rom Drives and even some DVD Rom Drives had a headphone jack and you could play music CDs on them without needing any extra hardware on the PC, just plug in your headphones and go!
Some people even used these drives without a PC just giving it power via the molex connector!
I think it's wireless because there isn't a power cable but the printers can't find it. 😭
Seriously though this is actually a 2GB HDD. 😂
Long story short I have a bunch if drives in various states of health but I want to understand what other people's cut off point is as to whether to keep a drive or throw it away. These are hard drives.
I'm looking for specifics for example
Power on hours.
Number of 'weak sectors' ie those taking maybe 200ms or longer to access.
Whether or not the drive has remapped sectors.
Etc..
I understand this can be a complicated answer so any info will be helpful.
The tools I generally use are Crystal Disk Info Standard and Victoria. I have heard of Mhdd but haven't use it before.
If there are any other tools you recommend, please feel free to mention them.
Sometimes I customise folder icons using the shell32.dll. I did a bit of digging and learned there are a lot more icons inside Windows you can use to customise your folders.
To use just delete shell32.dll in the browser field and type the dll mentioned in the image, they are all located in the same folder as shell32 so you don't need to change the path.
Taken from Windows 11.
Shoutout to this webpage:
https://www.digitalcitizen.life/where-find-most-windows-10s-native-icons/
I just need confirmation these are in fact bulging capacitors or not. I have 2 PCs which have this same look with all but one capacitor that's rounded like this. And they are a bit unusual because they don't seem to have the indentations I normally see on most electrolytic capacitors.
"Why YSK:". Because infrared remotes are still around and some remotes maybe be hard to get replacements for or you just want to fix the original remote and a non-working remote can mean the difference between keeping a device or throwing it away. Also it's a pretty simple fix.
Infrared remotes are often relatively simple devices and therefore there isn't a whole lot that can go wrong.
The most common problem is power problem either the batteries are dead or there is some kind of interference between the battery and the electrical contacts connected to the power such as corrosion.
But the other common reason there is a problem with infrared remotes is that the electrical contacts are either dirty or the small carbon pad under each button that’s supposed to complete the circuit is worn down or missing. You should know that the electrical contacts can get dirty even if you always use a remote cover or cover the remote in clear plastic. This is because in the manufacturing process the rubber keypad may have not properly cured and over time may deposit a small amount of liquid onto the electrical contacts on the remote PCB. That liquid will prevent the button from working and needs to be removed.
A quick 'acid test' for the second set of issues is that only some buttons work while others (often the most used ones) don't.
WHAT YOU NEED:
HOW TO FIX:
[Make sure to remove the batteries before dismantling the remote]!
Step 1. Open the remote. This part can be tricky. Try to use spudgers whenever possible to reduce damage and make it easy to pry apart the 2 halves . Watch Youtube videos if you need to. Note some remotes have screws so look around for screw holes and remove all the screws that hold the housing in place.
Step 2 DISMANTLING: . After the remote is taken apart take out the pieces from the remote. It should only be a few pieces like the remote keypad and remote PCB (PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD) which has all the electrical contacts you need to clean. You don't need to remove the battery contacts from the bottom of the remote housing.
Step 3 CLEANING. With a part of the clean cloth and using the soapy water: Clean the remote keypad both on top and under. You can also clean the remote housing as well with the cloth/paper towel and soapy water. You can clean the rubber keypad with the cloth and soapy water but avoid touching the black contact pads underneath the keypad.
As for the remote PCB, this is the important bit. Spray the contact cleaner or apply the isopropyl alcohol to a clean dry part of the cloth or a new paper towel and wipe the top of the remote PCB. You may need to do this a few times if there is a lot of dirt, debris etc. Then wait a few minutes before you test if the problem is fixed.
Step 4. TESTING: You don't have to put the remote back together to test it. Instead you can get away with putting the PCB back on the bottom of the remote. Putting the rubber keypad on top of the PCB and inserting the remote batteries into the remote housing. You can now use your smartphone's cameras to test all the buttons. Infrared light can't be seen by the human eye but they can be seen by a camera like the one on your phone. So open the camera app of your phone, then aim the camera at the front of the remote so it's looking at the remote's infrared emitter. As you press the buttons on the remote you should see a faint purple light blinking on the camera. Test all the buttons to make sure they all work. If some don't work inspect the electrical contact for that particular button and look at the black contact pad under the rubber keypad to see if it's missing or worn.
Step 5: RE-ASSEMBLING. If all goes well then you can reassemble the remote. If you noticed during the testing phase that none of the buttons are working try new batteries and make sure there isn't any corrosion on the battery terminals. Also make sure the batteries make a complete circuit.
Mars and Beyond is an episode of Disneyland which aired on December 4, 1957. It was directed by Ward Kimball and narrated by Paul Frees. This episode discusses the possibility of life on other planets, especially Mars. The show was also released in theaters in 1957. Source: NTSC Dvd Path: Dvd / MakeMKV / TMPGEnc Video Mastering Works 7 / Hardware Upscale / A.I. For for i,age clean-up. Result: 1440x1080p u/59. 94FPS / 24.0 Mb/s
I've had this happen a few times and while it's annoying and can be fixed easily why does this even happen?
It seems for some reason the SYSTEM user account loses access to the /system32/spool/printers folder preventing printing form happening. And it happens randomly too even on non Internet connected Windows systems!
So what's the deal?
An underrated feature. The attitude indicator/ compass is very useful tool to know the direction of the drone vs the controller and home point. Plus it has a very useful feature in the form of an attitude indicator.
The attitude indicator shows the pitch of the drone vs the horizon, and this gives you an idea of how much wind your drone is dealing with. If its very high or very low this indicates high wind speed and you may need to drop down to help your drone to cope. If you ignore this indicator you may end up in a situation where your drone cannot deal with the wind and you may not be able to return home.
Firstly yes I'm fully aware that Windows 7 is woefully out do date. But I just wanted to provide a solution if for any reason you have to install the 585 on a Windows 7 machine either directly or via the network.
So HP in their infinite wisdom mention that the HP Smart Tank 585 is compatible with Windows 7 however they don't provide a proper standalone driver pack to download. Instead they want you to use their horrible HP Easy Start Web trash that didn't work for me at all.
Now to be clear they only offer the scanner driver, just not the printer one.
The solution is to use HP Smart Tank 530 printer drivers which seem to work fine with the HP 585 Smart Tank.
https://support.hp.com/vn-en/drivers/hp-smart-tank-530-wireless-all-in-one-series/26342881
The alternative is to use add printer wizard and use Windows Update to get the HP 530 SMART tank printer drivers from Microsoft.
I was looking for a 'Universal' Scanner app like Vuescan that can be used to connect to an old scanner I have (Epson 640u perfection). I know that the scanner was only compatible with Windows 10 32bit. But I want to try other options.
Truth is I can't justify the 90 bucks for Vuescan as I only have one scanner.
I have managed to find something called XSane and it uses something called the SANE library to connect to multiple types of scanners without needed a specific scanner driver. It seems to be for Linux though but some places mention Windows support but I can't seem to find anything that works.
So what do you guys use if you scanner doesn't have driver support?
For clarity NAPS2 only works where is a scanner driver already installed.
If this is the wrong sub apologies.