u/Quick-Somewhere-918

I've been experimenting with making Gridfinity-compatible storage cases with transparent lids, so I can see what's inside without opening them.

I wanted to see if I could embed large transparent plastic panels directly into 3D prints. The idea was to pause the printer, insert a 2 mm clear plastic sheet, and let the printer finish around it, without needing any glue.

https://preview.redd.it/m7fecr37dpuh1.png?width=1254&format=png&auto=webp&s=ead11127c71b456dea8dd998c61a191279fa9a46

It took a bit of experimenting to get the fit right, along with the hinges and stacking, but I'm pretty happy with how they turned out!

I made a few different sizes, and they've been really handy for organizing small electronics components and 3D printing parts.

I made a video showing the design and printing process, including a few things that didn't work along the way:

https://youtu.be/GTP0L0NYEyw

What do you think? Has anyone else tried something similar?

One thing that I really struggle to understand is when videos that have good retention, and decent CTR, end up getting no impressions.

This video har 399 impressions and 85 views after almost 2 days. CTR is 4.3% and AVD 73.1%.

The graph is probably not fully up to date. 58% AVD is probably more accurate based on the latest view duration number. But the flat curve should still indicate a pretty descent video.

"This video is appealing to a smaller audience than usual, but its click-through rate (CTR) is similar to your other videos."

In cases like this, where should I start. Is it the title? Is it the thumbnail? Should I mess with it or leave it alone and hope for the best? 🤣

It was launched with an A/B test where one is Browse focused, one search, and one hybrid.
The Obvious Fix Is Not the Right One
The Strongest 3D Print Orientation Was Only Half the Problem
How to Make Stronger 3D Prints With Better Print Orientation

If anyone can make sense of this, please let me know 🙂

I’m the creator behind MeshColor, and I also made the short YouTube video linked below showing how to use the tool.

MeshColor is a free browser tool for adding textures, patterns and multicolor graphics directly to STL and 3MF models. I originally built it because I wanted an easier way to do things like wood grain, surface patterns and multicolor logos without manually splitting or painting everything.

The workflow is:

• Load an STL or 3MF
• Add a built-in texture or your own image
• Adjust scale, position and rotation directly on the model
• Select which surfaces should be affected
• Export as a multicolor 3MF
• Open it in OrcaSlicer and assign the resulting parts/colors to your filaments

Everything runs locally in the browser, so your model is never uploaded anywhere.

I made a short video showing the workflow and some actual printed results:
MeshColor: Add Multicolor Logos and Textures to 3D Prints

The tool itself is completely free:
https://meshcolor.com

I’d be especially interested in feedback from OrcaSlicer users about the workflow. If you run into a bug or there’s something that would make the export/import process work better with Orca, please let me know.

And honestly, I hope functionality like this eventually gets added directly to OrcaSlicer so an external tool isn’t needed at all. 😎

I’ve been working on a tool called MeshColor for adding surface textures, patterns and multicolor graphics directly to 3D models.

I made it because doing things like wood grain or wrapping a multicolor logo around a curved surface isn’t particularly easy in Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer.

MeshColor runs completely in your browser — models aren’t uploaded anywhere.

A simple bowl with 2 layers of textures

You can:

• Load STL or 3MF files
• Use built-in textures or add your own images
• Adjust scale, rotation and position directly on the model
• Add multicolor logos/graphics with automatic color separation
• Select which surfaces should receive the texture
• Export the result as a multicolor 3MF for Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer

The bowls in the first photo are actual prints made from files processed with the tool, not renders.

It’s completely free and doesn’t require an account:

https://meshcolor.com

I hope you will find this tool useful, and I’d genuinely like feedback from people who actually 3D print. If you try it and manage to break something, please tell me 😄

And honestly, I hope Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer eventually add features like this directly so we won’t need an external tool at all. 😎

Hi everyone,

I recently designed these aluminium parts for a wireless game controller project. I am very familiar with CAD and 3D printing, but the CNC-machined parts were produced for me, and I have no hands-on machining experience.

The project included several parts with machining on multiple sides, including the joystick handle, buttons, base components and some smaller detailed pieces. Here is the finished build and the process behind it:

Game Controller Project Video

I am curious whether any of the current Makera machines would be capable of producing parts with this kind of size, finish and precision in aluminium.

Would these normally be made by machining one side, manually repositioning the stock and then machining the remaining sides? Or would a rotary axis or more advanced setup be needed for parts such as the joystick handle?

I am considering adding CNC machining to my home workshop, mainly for custom electronics enclosures, controls and other small aluminium components. I would be interested to hear:

• Which Makera machine would be the best fit for this type of work?
• Which of these parts would be practical on a desktop machine?
• How difficult is it to maintain alignment when manually flipping a part?
• Would some of the shapes need to be redesigned to make them easier to machine at home?

I would especially appreciate feedback from anyone who has moved from mostly 3D printing into CNC machining.

I wanted to build wireless game controllers for retro computers such as the Amiga and Commodore 64, without modifying the computers themselves.

Each controller uses an ESP32-C3 (microcontroller) to read the joystick directions and two fire buttons, then sends the input wirelessly (using ESP-NOW). The receiver uses an ESP32-S3 (microcontroller) and connects to the original DB9 joystick port. They have worked surprisingly well, with no noticeable input lag during normal gameplay. It is also possible to use the USB-C connector on the dongle to connect it to modern computers for use with emulators.

I built two different controllers: a relatively inexpensive 3D-printed version, and a more excessive one with a clear resin case, CNC-machined aluminium parts and internal lighting.

I know similar wireless solutions can probably be bought, but building them yourself is much more fun 🙂

Considering to design a case for a raspberry PI with a built-in receiver for the joysticks in the same style as well. 😎

I documented the design, assembly and testing here:
https://youtu.be/Zefz-1NuU0Q

I wanted to make our regular garage door opener smart without replacing it or interfering with the existing wall button and remote controls.

The project uses an ESP32-C3 running ESPHome. A relay briefly connects the same terminals as the original wall button, while two sensors detect when the door is fully open or fully closed.

This gives Home Assistant both control of the door and reliable position feedback, rather than simply assuming the door moved after sending a command.

Everything works locally, and the original controls continue to work normally.

It was a fairly cheap and simple project, but it has turned out to be very useful.

I documented the process here:
DIY Garage Door Opener

I wanted to build wireless game controllers for retro computers such as the Amiga and Commodore 64, without modifying the computers themselves.

Each controller uses an ESP32-C3 to read the joystick directions and two fire buttons, then sends the input wirelessly using ESP-NOW. The receiver uses an ESP32-S3 and connects to the original DB9 joystick port. They have worked surprisingly well, with no noticeable input lag during normal gameplay.

I built two different controllers: a relatively inexpensive 3D-printed version, and a more excessive one with a clear resin case, CNC-machined aluminium parts and internal lighting.

I know similar wireless solutions can probably be bought, but building them yourself is more fun 🙂

I documented the design, assembly and testing here:
https://youtu.be/Zefz-1NuU0Q

I wanted to build a wireless joystick using cheap ESP32 microcontrollers. It actually turned out to work very nicely. No noticable lag.

I think its possible to buy similar controllers, but always more fun to build something youself 🙂

Went a little overboard and made one with CNC aluminium parts and a clear resin case as well as a more simple 3D printed version.

If you are curious to see more details about the build, there is a video at: Wireless Commodore 64 joysticks