u/Ragnaraz690

Ideally I want a robust and reliable motherboard, that won't cook the 9850X3D I want to drop in it. I heard MSI are really good in that regard, but I was looking at these too and at first I thought the MSI board was great, but then the TUF seems to have a few things a little better.
That said, both are cagey about certain details.

Returning to building a desktop after so long in a pain in the butt. So many different styles of the same board, its confusing.

So which one is better all around?

I'm going for RAM of 6000/64000mhz as I want a 1:1 ratio and lower VSOC.

Still pricing up my build and looking at variables, I've seen mixed things on the AM5 contact frames. I mean a few degrees cooler is great, but I'm seeing people saying there are memory issues if you don't mount it perfectly and all that jazz and also voiding mobo warranty?

Would anyone mind chipping in about this?
I'm going to be using the MSI MAG X870E TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard with a ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro A-RGB 360 on a 9850X3D. It's all a little overkill, but I want it cool and quiet.

I'm still pricing up a build and crying as it gets more expensive with every week of AI ruining stuff for enthusiasts... but anyway.

I've settled on this case, Black and wood with a nice dark build. That said, the front and back fans can be changed. Short version is I want to swap the 2 170mm front fans for 3 of the Noctua G2 140mm beasties.

I'm pretty sure this should increase the airflow substantially with minimal effect on acoustics. From the spec sheets of those fans and the case, having 3 x 140mm fans on front is the maximum airflow set up instead of the CPU or GPU prioritised 2 x 170mm fans. Possibly up the rear fan to a 140mm and the bottom fans to 120mm all Noctua G2s. My thinking is either I'll be able to run much cooler with all the added airflow, or lower the noise level through airflow efficiency.

Anyone done anything similar and found any improvements?

Is the cooler for this copper or aluminium? Also is it nickel plated either way?

Im a serial tinkerer and I am contemplating LM on this one day if it is nickel-plated.

Before anyone gets in with PTM, first LM is better if you know what you're doing, second, I've been making this stuff safe in laptops for 5years... a GPU is nothing in comparison.

That said, if the cooler is aluminium... it wont be happening either way. I heard they use a PCM on these cards, is it as good as PTM7950? Cause if LM isn't an option and its not PTM levels of good, then it might get some of that anyway. Always happy to keep things cooler.

Please and thanks :D

As the title suggests, I was thinking of modding DC2 to make it prettier, but the installation requires random files for the PC version (ironic when you're playing the PC version and it doesnt have them...)

What the heck am i meant to do here?

I've seen some mixed things here, some say its hard locked to 360w cap, some say it can go to 400w? Other say only the Vanguard and Suprim go to 400w?

Honestly, I was pretty set on the Gaming Trio, but I've seen a few things that shake my confidence in it. Thermals barely being better than the FE card, yet more expensive. Some said the power phases suck?

I would love a bit of clarity here, the option to stretch the peak power to 400w would be nice to max out potential OC, if the TIMs are sub par I can rework it with putty and PTM if that helps keep it cooler so it clocks higher too.

There are so many versions of the same card I dont even know which are the better ones to go for.

I'm going to be selling my 5090 laptop, going for the 5080 desktop was my main plan as it's the same SKU, only my laptop nets about 28k TS graphics score and 36k is fairly achievable on the desktop card with good cooling and general OC. Likely netting me around 20% more performance give or take.

Typically I don't care for RT, but I'm pretty sure at 1440 the 5080 should manage that with high settings and decent FPS. I have no idea where Nvidia drivers are in terms of stability atm so that could be a boon or a curse depending.

The only AMD contender would be the 9070XT, though typically isn't that meant to trade blows with the 5070ti?

I'm not saying money is no option, but I can afford the 5080 with the sale of my laptop.

So, with modern drivers and such, is the 9070XT a contender or do I stick with the 5080?

Is there a fix or has this kit just ruined my joycons?

Basically swapped my chassis for a Dpad version and the rails to atomic purple, but I did one side first to test. And now the joycon can move a fair bit while attached to the console. Which is worrying for handheld play for obvious reasons. Now I'm wanting to put my stock rails back just for the piece of mind.

As title suggests, I followed VVaypoints YT vid in order, ran as admin and it just crashes out.

Id really like a more polished look and sound, but heck I cant even get to the main menu. Any and all advice welcome.

As the title suggests.

Sometimes this is beyond a joke, trying to get my last 2 3 star trophies on 150cc in MKW.

Playing with me and my girlfriend where one tried to get the win the other guards. I can be first 20 coins and know for a fact the lead AI has no coins cause my girl will shell the hell out of them and no coins come out. Yet, on the final lap, they smoke her, pull some short cut wizardry and overtake me even if I have a 3 second lead.

I'm all up for challenge but this is just a slap in the face when skill dont even matter at that point.