Had this done by https://www.cdiy.eu all the way in Lithuania to match my scotia blue on blue brick. Very pleased with it after my OG knob warped and kept unplugging my OD button. Highly recommend Commune DIY. Super communicative, good lead time, very customizable, high quality product!
Bought this S&W last month. First range trip I fed it mostly S&B and blazer and 1-2 FtF similar to this in 150 rounds. I got the 20 lb recoil spring and Wolff extra power mag springs as recommended and it went from 1-2 every 100 to 1 every mag like this. I have the apex extractor on back order. I knew these might be troubleshooting levers I needed to pull even though that is dumb on an $800 gun, but this is even more frustrating. I’m wary of sending it to S&W after dealing with CZ earlier this year and getting something back that was half fixed. Thoughts?
I’ve heard some say magazine geometry but idk about bending parts like that seems too far out of scope. I feel like the extra power mag springs are making things worse.. like the gun is feeding too fast and cycling too slowly
As the title suggests, I am doing the front seals on my 82 Volvo 242 in the scope of timing and accessory belt replacement.
If my paperwork is correct, the seals were installed in 1991 and they are all disintegrating as soon as I try to pull with the seals puller hook. The camshaft seal (pictured) is completely stripped down to the outer casting and it’s seized in the head pretty good. I am going to pop off the lower plate and just do the crankshaft and aux seals on my bench to avoid this same problem. But I gotta deal with this camshaft!
Question: what is the safest way to wrangle this casting out? Wary of scoring any surfaces. Thanks!
I feel like I’m missing a step here. Completely stuck.
As the title suggests I’m suspicious my clutch throw bearing is failing and or my m46 is running dry. I get this horrid screeching sound intermittently. It typically happens when I’m slow releasing the clutch and / or ride the gas lightly with the clutch partially in as I’m shifting/slowing, or slowly in low gears in my neighborhood. I typically can troubleshoot by shifting out of gear and smoothly back in a few times or starting from a stop. Sometimes it gets “stuck” and keeps screeching through to 4th gear until it randomly stops 5-10 min in. Sometimes it doesn’t happen at all. I do have a slow transmission seal leak but verrry slow and I had a mechanic with a lift check some stuff with me and agreed it was of little concern. Thoughts?
And I love every minute. 57,800 when I bought her and 59,200 now. She’s given me some surprises but never failed me. Tons of city, highway and rush hour drives because I’m a madman too. I’ve had to replace/fix:
—tie rods. Barely had any play but inspector was a narc. I’m building up my tool supply so paid quickly to have my local mechanic do it. Def something I can do as I build tools.
—rebuilt wiper jet system with new pump and cleaned lines. Easy peasy.
—intermittent rough idle which turned into a slow Car and angry main pump. Thought the in tank pump was dead but it turned out to be an ill fitting replacement fuse for fuse 5. It was jiggling causing intermittent idle issues and eventually popped out. Put a proper fuse in and she runs so well.
—trunk rust. Stopped the bleeding with some butt cheek rust with some undercoat and a little bondo. Can’t tell it’s there and will cut and weld when I’m ready to paint in a few years.
Things I need to chase down….
Broken overdrive. I replaced the relay and fuse to no avail. Need to get off my ass and yank the shifter. Almost certain it’s wiring. No light on dash and intermittent failure before going dead. No click in brand new relay when triggered.
Wiring harness is a crusty mess. Debating suffering thru it myself with some help from my electrician pops or paying a Volvo guy $700 and driving a few hours for help. I patched up the sketchy stuff and may shore it up a bit more with heat shrink for now.
Rear shocks. They’re tired. I’ll do a full suspension upgrade in my driveway next year.
Then of course I will restore the paint someday and address some small rust spots but she’s a driver and treating me well!
These holsters have been an absolute winner for my p10c ported and S2C, both of which I carry AIWB. No discomfort on my skinny fat belly, great retention, very fast to get a good purchase and clear the holster and I have no problem concealing these bad boys. They barely crack the $100 mark with add ons too and feel very high quality vs other pricier brands I’ve tried and much better than stuff in the $50-$70 range.