30 yards RHT 100% cotton

6+7*7 Slub

13.5 Oz, 6+7*7

So on the warp yarns they used two different thickness of yarns 6 gauge and 7 gauge
On the weft that used a 7 gauge yarn

So the thicker gauge yarns will fade before the deeper lying 6 gauge yarns. Also the warp yarns are not traditionally undyed *white-ish yarns. In this fabric they have alternating colors.

So the fading of this denim will be very unique.

The plan is to remake my own denim fit (which I already tested) but now with everything combined from the first 13 jeans. On which I tested different ideas.
So this will get the:
- corded buttonhole
- corded beltloops
- ghost patch (patch on the inside construction visible on the outside)
- Double lined reinforced pockets

I made some denim and shared it here. But there were belts missing. So since I need to order denim again. In the meantime. I started making some belts.

I have full grain leather cut from the back. It's 3.6-3.8 mm thick. So pretty substantial which fits the raw selvedge as both age beautiful over time.

The Chocolate has the studs in an irregular pattern. Ot has two types of studs and Chigago screws. The cognac belt just has one type of stud in two rows.

After burnishing the edges I applied the first of 3 layers of edge paint.

The idea is to do the stitching and edge paint in one color. For now I have this blue "angry smurf", and two other colors. I am planning to make a black snakeskin belt that is glued and stitched. But since I never done this before I thought to start easy with one layer belts.

https://preview.redd.it/5u9l8eoh6bzg1.png?width=3840&format=png&auto=webp&s=2f10d1cb110864c80373e4a66b496ad37088308b

You can save moment buy looking at quiet luxury brands like Loro Piano. Look at beter construction and better RAW materials. The reddit edition.

I was looking to buy some new shirts for the office. I can get away with business casual, so I went for polo shirts.

Figured I’d share this as a bit of an educational breakdown on where your money actually goes when buying clothes — maybe it helps with your next purchase. And I like writing....

Quality vs. Status

Are you paying for status (brand/logo), or going for “quiet luxury”?

First off: there’s no wrong answer here. I’m not affiliated with any brands mentioned. I do own a clothing brand but not only make jeans and leather belts. So I need to buy my own shirts like you.

If you feel like signaling status or climbing the social ladder, go for recognizable brands. If you don’t feel the need to prove anything anymore, quiet luxury might be more your lane.

Why should you care?

Quiet luxury usually gets associated with brands like Brunello Cucinelli or Loro Piana (the latter got a lot of exposure from the t.v hit Succession).

So what actually separates these relatively low-key brands from mainstream fashion labels?

In my opinion, it comes down to two things:

1. Quality of raw materials
2. Quality of finishing

Raw materials (cotton isn’t just cotton)

“100% cotton” on a label doesn’t tell the full story. Not even mentioning the blended fabrics like 60%cotton 40% plastic.

Quick breakdown:
Cotton is a fiber. Clothing is made from fabric. Between those two steps, fibers are spun into yarn, then dyed, then woven or knitted.

The key factor here is fiber length.

Longer fibers = more contact area when spun into yarn → stronger, smoother, and softer fabric.

That’s why you want long staple cotton, ideally ELS (Extra Long Staple).

Now, spinning matters too:

• Open-end spinning: fibers are more random → rougher, “hairy” yarn
• Combed + ring-spun: fibers are aligned → smoother, softer, more durable

You can use combed/ringspun on any cotton, but if a brand is already using premium ELS cotton, they’re almost always doing it properly.

So is most cases ELS cotton is superior because of the fiber and spinning.

Construction

There are basically two ways to make a polo:

1. Cut & Sew (mass production)
Stack layers of fabric, cut panels them all at once, sew them together.

2. Fully fashioned / knit-to-shape
The garment is knitted into its final shape.

The second method holds its structure much better over time, especially after washing.

So lets Break it down

https://preview.redd.it/f7duvbgt7azg1.png?width=3840&format=png&auto=webp&s=5c70662f077cf1074d852018d1fab9937b3f6e27

Placket & collar

• Left Polo: Higher-end: open placket construction
• Right polo: Cheaper manufacturing: standard applied placket and collar (separate pieces sewn on)

Open plackets (left) are harder to make but sit flatter against the collarbone and create a cleaner look with less bulk on the chest.

Sleeves & hem

Look closely:

• Left Polo: Higher-quality polos: ribbed cuffs and hems are knitted as part of the garment → smooth transitions, no visible seams
• Right polo: Lower-quality: ribbed cuffs are separate strips sewn on → visible seam, more bulk

Same with the bottom hem — often just folded and stitched on cheaper pieces.

Final thought

Looking at the photo above: The left Polo is more or less 13 euro cheaper than the right polo. Thats a lot if clothing manufacturing. The left has a superior fabric and superior construction over the right polo.

So if we look at polos form quiet luxury brands below:

https://preview.redd.it/l958byji9azg1.png?width=3822&format=png&auto=webp&s=48ffe6022ac848bba2851ff12d1a82e5f91299a4

We see a similar construction. The actual fabrics are different but that is the knitting not the and has nothing to do with the fiber.

So my conclusion. If you know what to look for, you can have a luxury (quality and finishing) garment without paying the ( in my opinion ridiculous) luxury price.

Anyway that my rant for the day. Bye

Started sewing in Februari. Since then made 10 jeans. But now I would love to have some belts with it. So I put my ideas into photoshop and came up with this ideas. Classic belt designs but with a funky color of stitching and edge color. A bit inspired by the idea of the contrasting topstitch of denim.

As I never worked with leather before I dont want to overly complicate things for myself with lining the belt.
I bought some Full Grain Leather 9/10 oz (3.6/3.8mm).

Waiting on a punching pad and wing divider than I can try my first. Why is something you did when you started and wish you had done different?

A studded belt - I had one from cowboys bag and I loved it. It looked a bit different.

And a sectioned belt

Playing Around a bit as I dont have all the tools yet. I am going to work from the middel towards both ends. And think I am ging to make a template to get the stud setting aligned.

Made a toolbelt to keep everything a bit together. For now just basic stuff as I dont have any experience yet. So just the bare minimum.

https://preview.redd.it/8k4k0gnx64zg1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6731f627c66dc7238f46d9a77a961417fc77e073

This journey of learning to sew is so exciting to me. I came from never touched a needle in my life to making jeans. But There is still so much to improve even on the very basic level.

Bought this not only to draw patterns but also to understand them better.

https://preview.redd.it/nwl3ttxdy3zg1.jpg?width=2016&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f384630791c8f944a35c601b22de091763c7c91d

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https://preview.redd.it/5ianfuw604zg1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3e5b8c559c2e66d9a2332bd281160b8a8b88e389

SAL & OURO Selvedge Jeans (12 oz Double Black)
SALSA Button down (100% cotton)
Top Grain Leather Boots
HENRY ARCHER GMT watch with meteorite dial
Jewelry Oxidized Silver BAZK Berlin & Black (lab) diamond

Testing some design ideas
Fabric Selvedge 12.5oz | Sirospun | Double Black (mening warp and weft yarns are both dyed)

SO I wanted to test some ideas. Manley label placement and thing I tested before like arcuate stitching.
I had a unique arcuate of the famous bridge near Lisbon, and a booklet label, and lined pockets with mule ears and beautiful Chicago Screws as hardware. All great ideas on its own but maybe a bit too much.

So I cleaned up the Chigago screw by hiding the rivets of the back pockets

Sewing with my Super-Deluxe-Hyper-Modern Hump Jumper🤪

I moved the booklet label to the outside seam away from the pocket. And overstitched the pockets.

But cleaned up the arcuate stitching. The Ghostpcth is also there with a zigzag but not a big triple one. The cuff label is there. So on the outside two small labels.

I am not realy happy with the overlocking. I will try seam tape next time. I think that looks cleaner and more premium.

It stayed as I like the white of the button matching the label.

Not yet the right color. Maybe white will look nice on a dark herringbone. That would also match the button and patch. But I did not had white and wanted to try. The ship is a Portugese Caravel. I think it fits the brand thats also Portugese.

Dont mind the mess

So the only thing I did not do on this jeans is corded and tucked in belt loops and corded buttonhole. Which will be in aa later version.

Update after feedback:

P1 I moved the booklet label away from the pocket. Because the label is big in contrast to the pocketsize and there is already much going on with the pocket arcuate stitching.

P2 & P3 I deliberately overstitched the edges outside the pocket. It works as a reinforcement but it signals the jeans are for function.

P4 & P5 I Changed the decorative stitching on the “Ghost Patch” also with the overstitching in the corners. This is easier to rip out also for people that get irritations from labels.

P6 Just inside picture to get a feel

P7 I changed the stitching to match

So the outside. is clean with just a Ghostpatch and two small patches far away form each other.

https://preview.redd.it/4fgvrb2tsjyg1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=33d64ccfed931dcf4f1e14e41537ff2570434062

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https://preview.redd.it/ipyi9c2tsjyg1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0aae9d92b5f2549ef8edbcf5b0bf016c1be8fa4c