u/Steelman93

Enlarging a hole in drywall

The installer put the wrong size preconstruction brackets in my ceiling for speakers. He installed 8.3” brackets but they need to be 9.7” and the ceiling is now drywalled

I need to enlarge the holes and I don’t trust him to do it (for multiple other reasons….like cutting a roof truss)

What is the best way to do this? Dremel? Rotorzip? Knife? The bracket complicates things for sure, it’s a thick plastic

TIA

The installer put the wrong size preconstruction brackets in my ceiling for speakers. He installed 8.3” brackets but they need to be 9.7” and the ceiling is now drywalled

I need to enlarge the holes and I don’t trust him to do it (for multiple other reasons….like cutting a roof truss)

What is the best way to do this? Dremel? Rotorzip? Knife? The bracket complicates things for sure, it’s a thick plastic

TIA

I recently acquired a Jet JWTS-10 table saw from a school that cleared out their storage area. The saw is in good shape, but the blade to miter slot is 80 thousandths out of parallel as measured with a dial indicator.

Can someone explain how to adjust this? The arbor bolts on the back of the saw are easy to get to. On the front of the saw not so much. However, there are two connecting rods that go from front to back that look to me like an adjustment mechanism. Can someone point me in the right direction on this? Both how to use these if that is the case, and also how do you get to the arbor bolts in the front of the saw?

Am I better off completely disassembling the saw? I am sure it was manhandled in the past, and one of the wings looks like it may have either been dropped or fell at some point.

The owners manual says that if the blade is not parallel to the slot to adjust it, but no directions on how to perform that.

Thanks!

We are in the finishing stages of our build and have to choose gutters. I would love copper but the cost is prohibitive so we will be doing aluminum. K gutters are standard. Half round would be an additional $2200

Can I get opinions on the value of half round? If we do them we would do a dark bronze against our marine blue siding and white soffit

TIA

I am installing 4 1/4" prefinished solid oak, 3/4" thick. The manufacturer says I need to install an underlayment like aquabarB but is a bit unclear on the need to glue. My question...Do I need to glue? And how does that work...the glue sticks to the underlayment and that helps hold it down?

I did look at the NWFA guidelines which specifies glue over 5" so not really sure what I need to do on this.

TIA

I am getting ready to install my floor and wanted a few opinions...

The floor is Mirage solid prefinished oak, 3/4" thick, 4 1/4" wide. I am in central PA, installing over OSB. I will be using Aquabar B for the underlayment.

- Should I use staples or cleats? Mirage says 1 3/4" minimum...my nailer will do 2" of either. What size is best and do I want one or the other?

Because the width is over 4" I will use a glue assist. Can someone recommend a glue in tubes? Mirage told me any urethane glue, but mentioned. Bostich, Acoustich or Sika.

Lastly, should I use finish head screws for the starter courses or finish nails?

TIA

I am currently building a home, and purchased my appliances for it a number of months ago.

I do have them in a storage unit but now that the house is drywalled and all doors and windows on thinking about taking it to the house and storing in the garage. I would like to get rid of the storage unit.

Is there any reason this might be an issue? They are all crated in original packaging and in a climate controlled unit. I would be moving to the garage of my house that is weatherproof but not climate controlled. They need to stay there about a month.

TIA

I am getting ready to lay floors in my new build and am super confused on how to acclimate. Some facts:

3/4" Solid Oak made by Mirage. Mirage is in Canada, I am in Pa. The floor is kiln dried

House does not have AC yet, but is tight and humidifiers have been running for a couple weeks so RH is in the 40s

I have a moisture meter so can verify moisture contents

Right now the boxes are all stacked in different rooms of the house. Do I need to open them and spread out, or criss cross? Am I ok leaving them closed?

I have installed a couple thousand feet of hardwood, so I don't consider myself a rooking, but in the past just stacked boxes. However, I keep reading all sorts of advice. The Mirage website didn't say anything other than let it acclimate. And that the house must be 72 F.

I am getting ready to move into my new home and set up my basement workshop. The total area will be a little under 600 square feet for the shop. My dilemma that I would like thoughts from a more experienced group....I find myself with three table saws. One is a Unisaw X5 with a router lift attached. That will be my workhorse. However, I have a Jet 10 contractor saw and an older model Unisaw 3 phase with a Delta Biesemeyer style fence.

I was planning on getting rid of the Jet 10 and the 3 phase unisaw, but am now contemplating keeping one or both to use as a dedicated Dado saw. Your thoughts? is the space needed to do this worth it? And if I was to do it, would you do it on the older unisaw which will need several hundred dollars for a VFD, or on the Jet? I do have a set up jig for the dado stack so I can set up a stack pretty easily off saw.

TIA for opinions on this.

I am renting a duplex while my home is being built. Recently I began seeing small black bugs in the bathroom. Google says they are carpet beetles.

My landlord has an office directly below the bathroom which he is renovating and the appearance may coincide with that.

Do I need to be worried about my rugs that are rolled up near the bathroom? Any precautions to take?

I see about 10 or 15 at a time. I do not seem them anywhere else besides the bathroom, which is not carpeted

My concern is that I recently purchased two wool and silk hand knotted rugs for the new home. I bought them from a place that specializes in oriental rugs and they were hung. I have them in the hall outside

I am located in Central Pennsylvania

I purchased 4 1/4" solid oak flooring from Mirage for my new home. The installation instructions from Mirage specify using 15# felt paper under the wood, but the NWFA guidelines say Aquabar B is what to use.

Can someone explain the pros and cons of each for me, or whether it doesn't matter. Cost is the same.

The flooring is going over 3/4" OSB and the house has a full basement underneath that is not finished. (it eventually will be, but not for at least a year)

I am doing the install myself and want to make sure I get it right so appreciate the advice

After being away from PA for a long time I am back and they just opened a Wawa near me. Honestly…a bit shook.

What happened to their menu? Barely anything on it. No cheesesteaks, no dogs, brats….super limited. No soft pretzels, no breakfast sandwiches on muffins

Is that just for a new store until they get more stable or is that all stores now?

Also posted this in garage doors.

I am building a house and my builder uses Hormann Silent Drive doors. Does anyone know if Josh.ai is compatible with Hormann, or can be made compatible?

TIA

I am currently building a house and the openers that the builder installs standard are Hormann Silent Drive.

However, the automation platform being used by the automation guy is JoshAi. He gave us a list of compatible devices on the items he is not provided so that everything can be controlled by Joshai...we really like this instead of having separate apps for everything.

Hormann is not on the list as compatible....what he gave us was basically all Overhead door models, and a number of Genie models.

Two questions for the experts here:

1. does anyone know if Hormann is compatible with Joshai? I don't see a tech support contract on their website

2. My impression is Hormann is a higher quality opener....or should I consider just switching to OHD or Genie? there would likely be a cost to it since it is not their standard but unsure.