u/TriboKing

Stuck choosing a gravel groupset for a hybrid build

Hey all,

I’m after a bit of real‑world feedback from people who’ve actually tried these groupsets.

I’m in the middle of sorting out a new gravel bike that’ll be used mostly on the road (around 60–70%) with the rest being light gravel, bridleways and the usual Chilterns chalky nonsense. Geometry, wheels, tyres , all sorted. The only thing I’m properly stuck on now is the groupset.

I’ve been offered a SRAM Rival XPLR build, which on paper looks spot‑on. The gearing covers pretty much everything I currently get from my Shimano 105 road bike, and the tighter ratios look great for keeping a smooth cadence on tarmac. My only hesitation is whether I actually need wireless shifting. It’s cool, but I do like the simplicity and feel of a mechanical setup. I could also do with the saving.

Then there’s Shimano GRX 820. Loads of good reviews, and I’ve always liked Shimano’s feel and reliability. But the road‑side ratios aren’t quite as tightly packed as SRAM’s, and I’m slightly worried about feeling a bit “gappy” on longer road sections. The mechanical aspect is super attractive to me.

The wildcard is Campagnolo Ekar. On paper the 13‑speed cassette looks like the best compromise for hybrid riding, more road‑friendly ratios without losing the low end for steep climbs. But I’ve seen mixed comments about long‑term reliability and parts availability, so I’m not sure if it’s a sensible choice or a headache waiting to happen. I am also a bit confused as to whether the shifting system works.

If you’ve ridden Rival XPLR, GRX 820 or Ekar, or if you’ve done a similar hybrid build, I’d love to hear how it’s worked out for you. Cheers!

Started at 8000 and got one upper tier. There are still loads.

Hi everyone,

When I first bought my cycling shoes, I didn’t think too hard about foot shape or any of that. I grabbed a pair of Trek Circuit shoes, they felt “fine”, and I just assumed any discomfort was part of the cycling life. Most rides I’d get home and couldn’t feel my feet anymore, but I figured that was normal.

Then I went for a bike fit. The fitter measured my feet and immediately said they’re pretty wide for my size and that I should be looking at wide‑fit shoes like Lake or Bont. I didn’t take it that seriously at the time, partly because I didn’t think shoes could make that much difference, and partly because Lake prices are… yeah pretty expensive.

Fast‑forward to this week: I spotted a discount on the Lake CX238 Wide, spent way too long figuring out the right size, and ended up with a 40.5 wide. When they arrived, I was worried they might be a bit short, but I decided to give them a go this morning anyway.

Long story short: absolute game changer.

The carbon sole is unreal, the power transfer feels completely different, like pedalling suddenly got easier. But honestly, the width is the real revelation. For the first time it feels like the shoe is actually supporting my foot instead of squeezing it into a shape it doesn’t want to be in. I normally start losing feeling after about an hour, and today… nothing. Just normal feet doing normal foot things.

It might sound obvious to some people, but if anyone out there is on the fence about wide‑fit shoes, I’d genuinely recommend giving them a look. Lake’s sizing is a bit chaotic, but if you follow the sizing table for the specific model, it’s pretty much spot on.

They’re expensive, sure. But if, like me, you’ve got unusually wide feet , my wife calls mine “hobbit feet” , then Lake is absolutely worth considering. For me, totally worth the price.

Hey all, quick question about low‑prescription cycling vision.

I’ve got prescription glasses, but my prescription is pretty low, so most of the time I just head out with my normal cycling glasses and it’s fine-ish. I’ve never bothered with proper prescription cycling glasses because they’re ridiculously expensive, and honestly I’m not convinced I’d get enough benefit for the price.

Before I cave and go down the contact lens route (which is an option), I wondered if anyone else with a mild prescription has found clever workarounds. Maybe cheap prescription sports glasses, clip‑in inserts, or some other hack I haven’t thought of.

If you’ve dealt with this yourself, what did you end up doing? Any UK‑based options especially appreciated.

Cheers!

Hi everyone,

I’m about to pick up a pair of wide‑fit Lake shoes, and I’m pretty sure I’ll need proper arch‑support insoles to go with them. In my current shoes I’m using Sidas, but I can’t work out whether their insoles actually come in a wide option or if they’re all built on a standard-width base.

Has anyone here got recommendations for good arch‑support insoles that work well with wide feet? Any brands or models you’ve had success with would be massively appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I’m about to pick up a pair of wide‑fit Lake shoes, and I’m pretty sure I’ll need proper arch‑support insoles to go with them. In my current shoes I’m using Sidas, but I can’t work out whether their insoles actually come in a wide option or if they’re all built on a standard-width base.

Has anyone here got recommendations for good arch‑support insoles that work well with wide feet? Any brands or models you’ve had success with would be massively appreciated.

Thanks!

​

Hi everyone,

I had a bike fit last year and everything was mostly fine, but the fitter pointed out that my feet are quite wide. They suggested I look at Lake shoes in the wide fit. I measured up afterwards and, sure enough, Lake’s sizing guide says I should be in their wide option.

Lately I’ve been getting numb feet on rides. It’s always been there in the background but not getting any better so I’m starting to think my current shoes just aren’t the right shape for me.

There are some decent discounts on a few Lake models at the moment, but I’m stuck on one thing. I keep reading that some gravel clipless systems have a wider platform and can feel more comfortable than road clipless. For context, I’m currently on Shimano SPD‑SL, but I am absolutely fine to switch over to gravel if it proves to help numbness on the feet.

Before I go ahead and buy new shoes, can anyone explain the whole gravel vs road clipless comfort thing? I feel like that’s the first step before choosing the right shoes.

Thank you!

I got a bike through the Cycle to Work scheme, but I’m now thinking of selling it and getting something that suits me better. I’m a bit confused about the rules though.

From what I understand, the bike technically belongs to the employer/scheme during the hire period, and only becomes mine after the “fair market value” transfer. In 4 years time.

Has anyone actually sold their Cycle to Work bike during the hire period?

Is it completely fine or are there any hidden HMRC catches I should be aware of?

Would appreciate any real‑world experiences.

I got a bike through the Cycle to Work scheme, but I’m now thinking of selling it and getting something that suits me better. I’m a bit confused about the rules though.

From what I understand, the bike technically belongs to the employer/scheme during the hire period, and only becomes mine after the “fair market value” transfer. In 4 years time.

Has anyone actually sold their Cycle to Work bike during the hire period?

Is it completely fine or are there any hidden HMRC catches I should be aware of?

Would appreciate any real‑world experiences.

Hi all,

I’ve got a Peugeot 308 plug‑in hybrid (12.4 kWh battery). I usually top it up at work to save on petrol, but since day one I’ve had weird issues with the workplace charger.

Some sessions get cancelled, others stop early, and lately it seems completely capped. No matter what settings I choose on the Monta app, the car will only take 3–4 kWh before the session ends. I then have to go back out, unplug, restart the session, and repeat. It’s getting annoying.

At home I charge overnight and get the full ~12 kWh every time with zero drama. And the first few times at work were fine too, so something has changed.

I initially thought the charger had a per‑session cap, but apparently that’s not the case. Now I’m wondering if the 308 is somehow limiting itself to 4 kWh on public chargers even when the battery is properly depleted.

Has anyone seen this before with public AC chargers or Monta‑managed chargers?

Is this a known quirk with the 308 PHEV or am I missing something obvious?

Cheers!

Hi all,

I’ve got a Peugeot 308 plug‑in hybrid (12.4 kWh battery). I usually top it up at work to save on petrol, but since day one I’ve had weird issues with the workplace charger.

Some sessions get cancelled, others stop early, and lately it seems completely capped. No matter what settings I choose on the Monta app, the car will only take 3–4 kWh before the session ends. I then have to go back out, unplug, restart the session, and repeat. It’s getting annoying.

At home I charge overnight and get the full ~12 kWh every time with zero drama. And the first few times at work were fine too, so something has changed.

I initially thought the charger had a per‑session cap, but apparently that’s not the case. Now I’m wondering if the 308 is somehow limiting itself to 4 kWh on public chargers even when the battery is properly depleted.

Has anyone seen this before with public AC chargers or Monta‑managed chargers?

Is this a known quirk with the 308 PHEV or am I missing something obvious?

Cheers!

Hi everyone,

My mother‑in‑law is over 65 and is applying for British citizenship. In the application she’s been asked to provide five years’ worth of council tax statements, but Annex A doesn’t make it clear whether this alone is enough to prove five years of continuous residence in the UK. Has anyone been through the process with an applicant over 65 and could share what evidence they were asked for?

On a related point, I understand that the Life in the UK test and the English language requirement don’t apply to applicants over 65. Do we need to state this explicitly on the form, or is the exemption applied automatically?

Many thanks