u/VicSwagger

For those who have had Lasik for a while (let's say 10+ years post-op), is anyone else having blurry vision upon waking up?

I would say in the past month or so, it's become consistent that my daily morning routine includes a couple re-wetting eyedrops (ex. Systane) to get my vision focused; otherwise, I have cloudy/blurry vision after waking up from overnight & naps. While the "fix" is pretty easy, wondering if any other LASIK patients who had surgery many moons ago experiences similar.

I had mine done in 2001 but quite frankly, I have been very pleased, over 25 years later. Right after LASIK, I was 20/15 but a few years ago my vision test was 20/25 (they said the threshhold for requiring corrective vision, while driving from 20/70). As warned before surgery, I do need reading glasses and have been using 1.00 of 1.25 strength (whatever I can find at Dollar [50 cents] Tree, these days).

Historical things to note, regarding my vision:
2022 - I had a torn retina in my right eye, repaired via laser treatment
2023 - Had a bout of double-vision. Opthamologist cited exphoria but believes it was a one-off event. No double-vision bouts since then have occurred.

As stated, curious if any long standing patients are getting blurry vision that can only be corrected with rewetting drops. Thank you!

Been riding the Go ______ bus systems to get around. But, I'm frustrated with the inaccuracy of the buses.

Been using the Trip planner; but, that's just more like scheduling:
Trip Planner | GoRaleigh

I was using Umo, and some other app but they were really inaccurate.
Someone told me to use Transit because the data is crowdsourced (by riders on the bus using the app). With Transit, now I get a bus is like 3 mins away and counts down properly, to "Now". Then, no bus. 1-2 mins later, when I refresh, it will say something like 9 mins away. So I doubt the crowdsourcing is happening.

Buses are often late by 10+ mins (the long haul DRX and CRX routes, to/from Raleigh). These typically run in 30 min intervals. 10 mins isn't much but if accurate, it is the difference in me grabbing a bite to eat or using the bathroom.

One time, the bus still didn't get there (20 mins past due time). I called the Go Raleigh ph# and the rep told me there was a shortage of drivers. Further, she then told me the status of the next bus arriving would be over 30 mins. After disconnecting the call, the bus arrives (presumably, timing-wise, it was the next 30 interval bus). But, don't these things have trackers, particularly with the company & phone reps? How could she have been so far off her time estimate.

Frankly, I've found texting 41411 with the bus stop# to be the most accurate but these stop#s aren't posted at a lot of Durham and Chapel Hill bus stops.

What app are you finding to be the most accurate for Go ____ buses arriving at stops? Thank you!

My child is an incoming Frosh and is considering getting a part time job around NC State (not necessarily with the school). But, the experience through high school hasn't been student-friendly, in that the hours expected per day were ridiculous. This included Chick Fil A, where clock outs were at 9p or past 11p. When is the student supposed to study in a 15-hour day between school and work?!

By student-friendly, a few 3-4 hr shifts, etc. something resulting in 10-15 hrs/week, not in 2 days. Also, looking for a place that employs a lot of students, where the co-worker pool allows people to switch shifts or cover for each other. I doubt food service/restaurants offer these short burst shifts; but, local retail stores?

On campus isn't out of the question but looking to apply/start now, over the summer. With the thinned out population, I would imagine on-campus part-time jobs during the summer are already filled.

Not looking to make bank...just a little spending money but trying to get in now, before the bulk of the students return. Thank you!

Child has been driving our 2021 CX-9 so who knows what happened; but, the other day, I noticed when shutting the rear passenger side door, something was off. Turns out to be the molding. Googling got me the term "wheel arch molding".

Looks like people have been ordering the replacement part for $180. But, I'd like to try a cheaper fix first.

This was the closest thread I found to my exact problem:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MazdaCX9/comments/1lpyoz4/2021_cx9_plastic_molding_broke/?sort=top

To be honest the zip tie solution is what I'd probably go with. But, I'd also like to try replacing the fasteners, to further secure. Does AutoZone or O'Reillys carry generic fasteners, or do I have to go to a Mazda dealership?
*I'll be honest, looking at the holes for the fasteners, I don't see accompanying holes on the trim. Also, guesstimating, for a fastener to be able to touch anything on the inside of the molding, looks like it would have to be at least a couple inches long.

Adjacent, looked at links in other Reddit threads to various Mazda OEM part (direct order). This looks like the closest; but, the orientation is wrong. Is this a stock image they use for all four wheels? Specifically, in the link below, there is the arch part, then a rectangular piece below it. On my car, for rear passenger, that arch/rectangular piece assembly is closer to the front end, where the rear passenger door closes. If it comes to ordering the entire part, I want to make sure it's correct. Honestly, in the part's title, I don't understand why "Right" is there when Passenger Rear Wheel should be sufficient.
https://www.mazdaswag.com/oem-parts/mazda-2016-2021-mazda-cx-9-right-passenger-rear-wheel-opening-fender-molding-tk4851w50h?srsltid=AfmBOoqTdA1JVOikk6aqO2fkCt8H3scDj0lhloWV88oAwjAXw-J0T_83

Anyhow, similar to the first Reddit thread I posted, looking for inexpensive fixes to this loose arch molding. Hoping fasteners and zip ties can do the trick. Thank you!

Daughter got accepted and is going to NCSU this Fall. For Mother's Day, she wants to get a NCSU/Pack Mom t-shirt to give her mom.

Amazon has some options but won't get here in time or rated below 4-stars (plus she didn't really like the Amazon choices).

Does Talley, Red & White store or other local store carry NCSU Mom t-shirts?
Thank you!

Hello All:

Looking for cheap/quick remediation steps, guesstimates on issue(s) & repair costs. Then, curious & looking for suggestions offloading Hondas.

2007 Honda CR-V
VTEC 2.4 DOHC

Mileage: 199,xxx

Son's car. Called me and said the CRV was going herky-jerky when he depressed the accelerator. Car would not speed up, and could not keep up with flow of traffic. Had him pull off into a parking lot & picked him up. After 3 days we picked up the car. Started fine, worked fine but engine light was on. Got to O'Reillys to run the scan tool. Returns 4 codes:

P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold B1
P0139 - HO2S S2 Slow Response
P1009 - VTC A Bank 1 Systm Timing Over - Advanced
P2646 - Rocker Arm Oil Control Valve (A) Stuck On/Off

I just tried to start the car. The engine turns over, but then, the engine fails to remain on, unless I press the gas pedal. Once I stop giving gas, engine fails to remain on.

Spent the last 2-3 hours on Internet research. Even tho the bulletin says the most likely solution is to replace the catalytic converter (I did check & the catalytic converter has not been stolen). But, in conjunction with the other codes, it seems the Internet/message boards suggest other things before the CC replacement.

- cheap/quick remediation steps before a taking to shop? Oil Change? Fuel cleaner?

- best guesstimates on repair costs? minor vs. major. Hoping gunk needs to be cleaned out vs. CC replacement (tho 200K sounds like the time)

So I know that Hondas have a rep for a high re-sale value.
But, based on what I've described, how much more $$$$ would you sink into keeping this 2007 Honda going?

Thank you in advance for any advice. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

Hello All:

Looking for cheap/quick remediation steps, guesstimates on issue(s) & repair costs. Then, curious & looking for suggestions offloading Hondas.

2007 Honda CR-V
VTEC 2.4 DOHC

Mileage: 199,xxx

Son's car. Called me and said the CRV was going herky-jerky when he depressed the accelerator. Car would not speed up, and could not keep up with flow of traffic. Had him pull off into a parking lot & picked him up. After 3 days we picked up the car. Started fine, worked fine but engine light was on. Got to O'Reillys to run the scan tool. Returns 4 codes:

P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold B1
P0139 - HO2S S2 Slow Response
P1009 - VTC A Bank 1 Systm Timing Over - Advanced
P2646 - Rocker Arm Oil Control Valve (A) Stuck On/Off

I just tried to start the car to get more stats for this post. The engine turns over, but then, the engine fails to remain on, unless I press the gas pedal. Once I stop giving gas, engine fails to remain on.

Spent the last 2-3 hours on Internet research (google searches & youtubes on the codes). Even tho the bulletin says the most likely solution is to replace the catalytic converter. Yes, I did check & the catalytic converter has not been stolen. But, in conjunction with the other codes, it seems that there are many other things to try first, before jumping to the catalytic converter replacement.

- cheap/quick remediation steps:
Per the Grease Monkey sticker, looks like the CRV recommended mileage to get an oil change was at 197,xxx miles. Looks like an oil change is recommended to see if that will "clear" some codes. Then, some of the converter-adjacent things are checking other parts for clogs, debris. Is there a gas-adative that would help? I saw the check/replace/clean of the part that holds the screen, behind the engine manifold (secured by 3 bots and has sensors connected). But, no way could I do that. But, I might be able to replace all the fuel injectors....stuff like that.

- best guesstimates on repair costs:
Here, I am looking for suggestions when taking into the repair shop. My hope would be that the shop checks some of these adjacent parts (that may have debris and clogs).
I'm not looking for exact online diagnoses, but, maybe y'all can give me ranges of:

1. A minor repair of ________, would probably run $______ - $________ for parts & labor
2. A major repair of (and here, lets assume catalytic converter replacement) would run and estimated $________?

- Offloading the Honda:
So I know that Hondas have a rep for a high re-sale value.
But, based on what I've described, how much more $$$$ would you sink into keeping this 2007 Honda going?
If we find that the quoted estimates are above the max $$$$$ people would spend on the repair (and don't go through with the repairs), what steps would you take to get some return of $ on the car, as is? (This will go towards are next used car purchase).

Thank you in advance for any advice. While a lot of areas are being asked, hopefully, redditors won't have to spend time with lengthy answers. But, any feedback is greatly appreciated!

First, good luck to everyone on Final exams! Then, have a great summer!

For someone using an electric scooter, I will be going back and forth between Student Stores on South Rd, to Marsico Hall (Mason Farm/West Dr./Manning area).

Are there streets and paths, navigable by electric scooter (minimal stairs) that is worth the time savings vs. sticking to the main roads: South Rd & Columbia St? Hard to tell from Google Maps/Earth views. Thank you!